THE ETIQUETTE REFLECTED IN JANE AUSTEN’S WORKS The Etiquette Reflected in Jane Austen's Works.

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THE ETIQUETTE REFLECTED IN JANE AUSTEN’S WORKS

PUBLICATION ARTICLE

Submitted as a Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for Getting Master Degree of English Language Study

atMuhammadiyah University of Surakarta

Written by:

Anindya Nurul Kusuma Dewi S 200140052

POSTGRADUATE PROGRAM OF LANGUAGE STUDY MUHAMMADIYAH UNIVERSITY OF SURAKARTA

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ii APPROVAL

THE ETIQUETTE REFLECTED IN JANE AUSTEN’S WORKS

PUBLICATION ARTICLE

Written by:

ANINDYA NURUL KUSUMA DEWI S 200140052

This Publication Article has been approved by Advisors Surakarta, March 29, 2016

First Advisor

Dr. Muhammad Thoyibi, M.S.

Second Advisor

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iv TESTIMONY

The researcher testifies that in this article publication, there is no plagiarism of the previous literary studies which has been raised in obtain master degree of a university, nor there are opinions which have been published or written by others, except those which the writings are referred in literature review, underlying theory, and bibliography. Hence, if it is proven that there are some mistakes statements in this testimony, the researcher will be fully responsible.

Surakarta, 28 March 2016 Researcher

ANINDYA NURUL KUSUMA DEWI S 200 140 052

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THE ETIQUETTE REFLECTED IN JANE AUSTEN’S WORKS

Anindya NurulKusumaDewi Muhammadiyah University of Surakarta

anindya.nkd@gmail.com

ABSTRACT

Etiquette in England is interesting to be analyzed, because England has several periods and different manners along with the country development. One of them is Regency period. It had some manners that reflected in Jane Austen’s novels. This research aims to identify types of etiquettes in the Jane Austen’s novels; describe the etiquettes that reflected in the Jane Austen’s novels; and reveal the underlying reason why Jane Austen addressed the etiquettes in the novels. This study is qualitative research which the researcher uses narrative research to analyze the works besides books and other related references to support the subject matter. The data of the research are the etiquette in the Jane Austen’s novels: Sense and Sensibility (1811), Pride and Prejudice (1813), Mansfield Park (1814), Emma (1815), Northanger Abbey (1818), and Persuasion (1818) novels. The technique of data collection is done through documentation of library research. After all data have been collected, then analyze the data used descriptive analysis. The findings of this research are: first, there are five etiquettes reflected in all of the six novels. Those etiquettes are visiting manners, speaking manners, party and balls, dressing manners, and table manners found in all of the six novels. In each manner divided into several specific manners based on the gender, occasion, and personal’s status. Second, the etiquettes described through the conversations, author’s narration, and character’s behavior.The researcher analyzes both major and minor characters in the novels to make the data clear and strong. Third, Jane Austen addresses the etiquettes in the novels because it was important for social interaction. The social rules did apply to both ladies and gentlemen, and touched upon almost every area of daily life.

Keywords: etiquette, Jane Austen’s novels, regency England, early nineteenth century, sociological approach

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THE ETIQUETTE REFLECTED IN JANE AUSTEN’S WORKS

Anindya NurulKusumaDewi Muhammadiyah University of Surakarta

anindya.nkd@gmail.com

ABSTRAK

Etiket yang ada di Inggris menarik untuk dianalisis, karena negara ini mempunyai beberapa periode dan aturan bertata krama yang berbeda menyesuaikan masa pemerintahannya. Salah satunya ada periode Regency. Novel – novel Jane Austen mencerminkan tata krama pada masa ini. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengidentifikasi tipe – tipe etiket yang tercermin pada novel Jane Austen; menguraikan bagaimana etiket tersebut tercermin dalam novel; dan mengungkapkan alasan Jane Austen menyertakan etiket pada novelnya. Penelitian ini adalah kualitatif yang menggunakan penelitian narrative untuk menganalisis novel dengan tambahan buku – buku dan referensi lain yang relevan. Data penlitianiniadaetiket yang ada di novel – novel Jane Austen, yaitu: Sense and Sensibility (1811), Pride and Prejudice (1813), Mansfield Park (1814), Emma (1815), Northanger Abbey (1818), and Persuasion (1818).Teknik pengumpulan data diselesaikan dengan cara metode dokumentasi dengan teknik deskriptif analisis. Penelitian ini menunjukkan bahwa terdapat lima etiket yang tercemin di enam novel Jane Austen, antara lain tata krama berkunjung, tata krama berbicara, tata krama dalam jamuan makan malam dan pesta, tata krama berpakaian, dan tata krama ketika makan. Setiap tata krama dibagi menjadi beberapa spesifik tata krama berdasarkan jenis kelamin, peristiwa, dan status seseorang. Kedua, etiket digambarkan melalui percakapan antar tokoh, narasi penulis, dan perilaku tokoh. Peneliti menganalisis peran utama dan peran pembantu. Ketiga, Jane Austen menyertakan etiket pada novelnya karena etiket sangat penting untuk interaksi sosial pada jaman Regency. Aturan dalam masyarakat dipatuhi dan berlaku untuk wanita dan pria, dan hampir digunakan untuk kegiatan sehari – hari.

Kata Kunci: etiket, novel Jane Austen, regency Inggris, awal abad sembilan belas, teori sosiologi

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1 A.Introduction

Jane Austen’s novels have become the famous novel in two hundred years. The author creates her works as the reflection of the social phenomena or conditions at the time. As Klarer (2004: 1) said that literature “as cultural and historical phenomena and to investigate the conditions of their production and reception.” Jane Austen’s novels represented the social condition and situation in the early of nineteenth century. It is interesting that England had several periods and different manners along with the country development. One of them is Regency period. The Regency was an era of change and unrest as well as one of glittering social occasions, celebrations and extraordinary achievement in art and literature (Kloester, 2010: 1). It had some manners that reflected in Jane Austen’s novels. This research aims to identify types of etiquettes in the novels, describe the etiquettes that reflected in the novels, and reveal the underlying reason why Jane Austen addressed the etiquettes in the novels.

There are some researchers who have done the research in Jane Austen’s novels, such as Olson (2013), Sasso (2013),Ashfaq and Khattak (2014), Boarcas (2014), and Guin (2015). However, most of the researchers who analyzed the works of Jane Austen focused on the feminist aspect, the adaptation from the Austen’s work into several novels or movies, and the marriage life.So, there are no researchers who have been conducted a research about the etiquette that reflected in the Jane Austen’s novels.

As Swingewood and Laurenson (1972: 15-17) state that “through the literary works, we can learn phenomena in society in certain time and place.” Literary works give details of particular periods, reflects norms, attitudes, classes, and values in the sense of the writer’s own intention. Literary used as a social document, literature can be made to yield the outlines of social history (Wellek and Warren, 1962: 99). Therefore, literary work expresses the situation and condition when it is produced. The social condition may contain all aspects such as social, culture, economy, politic, and religious aspect. From their explanations, researcher thinks that this study is suitable to analyze using sociological approach. It is clear that sociology and literature is influencing and complementing each other.

B.Research Method

This study is qualitative research which the researcher uses narrative research to analyze the works besides books and other related references to support the subject matter. The data of the research are the etiquette in the Jane Austen’s novels. The primary data sources are Jane Austen’s Sense and Sensibility (1811), Pride and Prejudice (1813), Mansfield Park (1814), Emma (1815), Northanger Abbey (1818), and Persuasion (1818)novels. While the secondary data are taken from other sources such as journal, books of literature, author’s biography, essays, article, and other relevant information.

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The technique of data collection is done through documentation of library research. Documentation is the data collection which uses all of the data sources (Creswell, 2007: 118). After all data have been collected,then analyze the data used descriptive analysis. As Miles and Huberman explained (1994: 245) the methods of data analysis includes several steps. The steps are collecting the data sources, recording the information by taking notes and writing reflective passages in notes, summarizing field notes by drafting a summary sheet on the field notes, writing codes and memos, noting patterns and themes, counting frequency of codes, building the logical chain, and displaying the data by making contrast and comparisons.

C.Findings and Discussion

The etiquettes were analyzed using sociological approach by Swingewood and Laurenson (1972), Wellek and Warren (1962), and theory of etiquette in the Regency England by several authors based on Jane Austen’s Sense and Sensibility (1811), Pride and Prejudice (1813), Mansfield Park (1814), Emma (1815), Northanger Abbey (1818), and Persuasion (1818) novels.

1. Visiting Manners a. Visitor

1) Formal Visit

The formal visit is business occasion. There should be a written invitation but if among the businessmen are close friend, no written invitation needed. It shows in Emma when Mr. Knightley visited Mr. Woodhouse to discuss about their business.

…Mr. Knightley, who had been of the party, and had seen only proper attention and pleasing behaviour on each side, he was expressing the next morning, being at Hartfield again on business with Mr. Woodhouse,

(Emma, 2006: 111)

Mr. Knightley is brother of Isabella’s husband, it becomes habit for both gentlemen to discuss about their business without sending an invitation before. Regency England was dominated by man in every part of job field such as farmer, trader, soldier, lawyer, etc. Most of the gentleman’s job in the Regency Period was businessman or military man. In fact that formal visit is seldom to find rather than the informal visit in Jane Austen’s novels, because the society was merely about the pleasure and much about social activities.

2) Informal Visit

For the informal visit here is social event, family visiting, and visit in someone’s house. The invitation is direct invitation if the host and the guest are close to each other. The main point in a country house is to give as little trouble as possible. Children and horses are still more troublesome, and should never be taken without special mention made of them (Hughes, 1998: 190).

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“The carriage! But James will not like to put the horses for such a little way; and where are the poor horses to be while we are paying our visit?”

“They are put into Mr. Weston’s stable, papa.” (Emma, 2006: 6)

The upper and middle class houses in the Regency period had stable for the horses, so if the visitor ride their horse or carriage they no need to worry about their horse or carriage. If the house does not have stable, the carriage would leave and pick them up in a mention time.

Visiting habitual also concerned to the family visiting. This is shown in Mansfield Park, Fanny Price visited her family after a long time she never met them. Since her moving at nine years old, she only met her brother William and never coming back to her real house. Sir Thomas who had this idea, so, it was decided that Fanny would come to her family house in two months with William as her company (Mansfield Park, 2005: 356).

In case of social visit, the new citizen who moved in a new city or village, or if the person has been married, usually they will receive the neighbor as a guest. As Hughes stated (1998: 177), “Visit of condolence or congratulation must be made about a week after the event.” It is shown in Emma, that she visited Mr. and Mrs. Elton as the new bride, so she must congratulated them as soon as she can,

Emma had feelings, less of curiosity than of pride or propriety, to make her resolve on not being the last to pay her respects; and she made a point of Harriet's going with her, that the worst of the business might be gone through as soon as possible.

(Emma, 2006, 178)

If the neighbor relations are going well, they will visit often and invite them back to dine together. As shown in the Persuasion (2006: 63) “Captain Wenthworth was known to be at Kellynch, and Mr. Musgrove had called on him, and come back warm in his praise, and he was engaged with the Crofts to dine at Uppercross, by the end of another week. And he made a very early return to Mr. Musgrove’s civility.”

In a long visit, if the host had another schedule, the guest might do activity that pleased him. Elizabeth Bennet went walk to her favourite sheltered path while Mr. and Mrs. Collins were calling on Lady Catherine (Pride and Prejudice, 2006: 191).An important rule for ladies are when they were in a journey that they should have a servant or family member to accompany them during the journey, because it could be dangerous whether it public or private carriage (Kloester, 2010: 174). This is impolite manners to send the guest back to home without make her decide the day and time, and the real reason she

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should leave immediately. Even though Catherine has received rough treatment, she was made a nice good bye to Eleanor Tilney.

According to Young (1885: 74), “when taking leave, the guest should express the pleasure they have experienced in their visit.” It is drawn when Elizabeth ended her visit in the Collins.

Elizabeth was eager with her thanks and assurances of happiness. She had spent six weeks with great enjoyment; and the pleasure of being with Charlotte, and the kind attentions she had received, must make her feel the obliged.

(Pride and Prejudice, 2006: 238)

Elizabeth thanked and said had great enjoyment to spend the time with them, especially with her best friend. She expressed a polite leave taking and appreciated the host and hostess effort in her visit.

b. Host

All kind of visit should get the invitation letter or directly personal invitation from the lady of the house. The purpose of invitation were vary and it depends on the hostess, because the hostess who has role to send the invitation to the guest. As mentioned in Mansfield Park, the invitation come to make two family closer because Mr. Rushworth take in marriage Maria Bertram. Mrs. Rushworth make the invitation on her own, directly come to the Bertram’s house to invite the whole member of the family.

Mrs. Rushworth, a well-meaning, civil, prosing, pompous woman, who thought nothing of consequence…, had not yet given over pressing Lady Bertram to be of the party. Lady Bertram constantly declined it.

(Mansfield Park, 2005: 73 – 74)

In case of social visit, the host will return their guest visit (Sullivan, 2007: 105). It is mean that the host appreciates the last visit in their place, or they want to interlace the relationship between them. After Emma Woodhouse visited Mr. and Mrs. Elton, the Eltons return the call and come to the Hartfield.

Mr. Woodhouse speaks to Emma after the Eltons left his house, “I made the best excuses I could for not having been able to wait on him and Mrs. Elton on this happy occasion; I said that I hoped I should in the course of the summer. But I ought to have gone before. Not to wait upon a bride is very remiss. Ah! it shews what a sad invalid I am! But I do not like the corner into Vicarage Lane.” (Emma, 2006, 184)

According to Kloester (2010: 98), “If the lady of the house wished to see visitor, the guest was invited to come in the morning room or in the drawing room, whereas the host received his guest in the business room or library.”It is shown in Mansfield Park when the Bertram’s family and the others visited

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Rushworth’s house. After their arrival, Mr. Rushworth was at the door to receive the whole party with due attention. “In the drawing room they were met with equal cordiality by the mother… (Mansfield Park, 2005: 81).”On the other way, if the lady of the house does not wish to see her guest, she would send the servant to tell that she is not at home. This happened to Catherine Morland when she visited Miss Tilney,

When she was going to the Tilney’s lodging and Miss Tilney was about to go with her father, “She gave her card. In a few minutes the servant returned, and said he had been mistaken, for that Miss Tilney was walked out.”

(Northanger Abbey, 2006: 90)

Nevertheless, the host should provide amusement for his guests (Hughes, 1998: 190). This is shown when Mrs. Collins welcomed her friend with the liveliest pleasure, and Elizabeth was more and more satisfied with coming, when she found herself so affectionately received (Pride and Prejudice, 2006: 176). Sometimes the host has made some arrangements to spend the day with the guests and if the host has something to attend after breakfast, the guest will retire to their own occupations (Hughes, 1998: 190). Hospitality of the host/ess shown in Northanger Abbey by General Tilney offered himself as Catherine’s conductor to walk over the house after breakfast.

“But perhaps it might be more agreeable to her to make those her first object. The weather was at present favourable, and at this time of year the uncertainty was very great of its continuing so. Which would she prefer? He was equally at her service…”

(Northanger Abbey, 2006: 181)

Sullivan stated (2007: 127), “When the hosts are finally fed up with guests and want them gone, there are some ways to deal with it: give them hint, stop the interesting activities, frighten them away, and use a middleman.”The Bingleysused a hint to Lydia to be gone(Pride and Prejudice, 2006: 429). The unpleasant thing happened because the host feels bustle of his guest. Lydia visits them too long and she makes The Bingleys feel uncomfortable of her long visit. They using polite way to get rid of her, with give a hint.

2. Speaking Manners a. Formal

The researcher determines formal speaking based on the occasion, such as business and ball. In formal introduction, a social inferior is always introduced to a superior, men to women rather than the reverse, and only with the latter’s acquiescence (Pool, 1993: 55). This rule apply in public assembly, the master of ceremonies will introduce the gentleman to the lady as a partner of dance. It is shown Northanger Abbey, before Catherine Morland has dance with Mr. Tilney,

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the master of ceremonies had been introduced him to Catherine officially (Northanger Abbey, 2006: 17). On the contrary happened in Pride and Prejudice, it is shown by Mr. Collins introduced himself to Mr. Darcy. It is clear that he broke the rule of formal introduction. He cannot introduce himself, he should be introduced by another person or the master of ceremonies.

Elizabeth tried hard to dissuade him from such a scheme; assuring him that Mr. Darcy would consider his addressing him without introduction as an impertinent freedom…

(Pride and Prejudice, 2006: 109)

According to Le Faye (2002: 113) “modes of address were very formal even within the family, in public at least, husband and wife spoke and referred to each other as Mr. and Mrs.; while children called their parents Sir and Ma’am as well as Papa and Mama.”

“I have, Sir.” Elizabeth Bennet replied his father question about her refusing of Mr. Collins offered marriage.

“Very well. We now come to the point. Your mother insists upon your accepting it. Is not it so, Mrs. Bennet?”

(Pride and Prejudice, 2006: 125)

Outside the family, Christian names were used to distinguish younger brothers and sisters. To address or refer to some unrelated person by their Christian name alone signified either that the person was a child or an inferior, or else that the speaker was over-familiar and vulgar (Le Faye, 2002: 113).

“I only puzzle them, and oblige them to make civil speeches. Mr. Edmund Bertram, as you do not act yourself, you will be a disinterested adviser;”

(Mansfield Park, 2005: 143)

From the example above, Edmund Bertram is the younger brother. The citizens would call Tom Bertram as Mr. Bertram because he is the older brother. So that is why Edmund called as Mr. Edmund Bertram to differentiate between the older and younger son.

b. Informal

In the society, people must know how to use word wisely and give another people chance to talk. Even the upper class sometimes they can misbehave, just like Mr. Darcy did. In Pride and Prejudice, Mr. Darcy had insulted Mrs. Bennet with talking that in the country has unvarying society. So, Mrs. Bennet has felt insult by Mr. Darcy and told him that she had dinner with twenty four families there.

“The country,” said Darcy, “can in general supply but few subjects for such a study. In a country neighbourhood you move in a very confined and unvarying society.”

“I assure you there is quite as much of thatgoing on in the country as in town.”

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Everybody was surprised; and Darcy, after looking at her for a moment, turned silently away. Mrs. Bennet, who fancied she had gained a complete victory over him, continued her triumph.

“I believe there are few neighbourhoods larger. I know we dine with four and twenty families.”

(Pride and Prejudice, 2006: 47 – 48)

From the example above, Jane Austen described the opposite manner to speak politely. She did not agree with the attitude and describe it through the minor characters.

3. Party and Balls a. Dinner Party

The dinner party began with the selection of guests who would not be socially uncomfortable together (Pool, 1993: 72). The guests usually their close friends, neighbor and business or political colleague, so generally they knew each other. Write the invitations or it can be direct invitation to the guest (Sullivan, 2007: 45).

“You must drink tea with us tonight,” said Sir John to the Dashwoods and Edward Ferrars, “for we shall be quite alone – and tomorrow you must absolutely dine with us, for we shall be a large party.”

(Sense and Sensibility, 2006: 115)

Dinner parties were an ordeal, if not for the guests, then certainly for the hostess. As happened in Emma, when Mr. and Mrs. Elton married, the citizens often invited them to attend the dinner at their house(Emma, 2006: 191). Soon after the invitation has arrived, the guest should write the RSVP to the host, to inform whether they will come or not.

When Emma arranged dinner for the Eltons at Hartfield, and the invitation lettes has been sent, every invitation was successful. They were all disengaged and all happy.

(Emma, 2006: 191)

It had become a rule that after dinner the ladies followed the hostess to the drawing room for drinking tea or coffee, conversation, reading, gossip, or needlework until the gentlemen join them to drink tea (Sullivan, 2007: 109).

When the ladies withdrew to the drawing-room after dinner, this poverty was particularly evident, for the gentlemen hadsupplied the discourse with some variety…

(Sense and Sensibility, 2006: 266)

After drinking tea or coffee was over and the gentlemen have already joined the ladies, they would entertain themselves by playing cards, dancing, singing or playing music. There were some popular games: whist, quadrille, loo, cribbage, speculation, and casino (Sullivan, 2007: 112 – 116). As shown in Mansfield Park,

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Lady Bertram was not willing to play whist, she wanted another game, so Sir Thomas recommended her to play speculation.

In the evening it was found, according to the predetermination of Mrs. Grant and her sister, that after making up whist-table there would remain sufficient for a round game, and everybody being as perfectly complying and without a choice as on such occasions they always are, speculation was decided in almost as soon as whist; (Mansfield Park, 2005: 232)

If there had no mind to play card or no lady who could play the musical instrument, the women would doing needlework, reading a book, or singing while playing music. It described in Persuasion (2006: 70), that the Great House held a dinner party was attended by Mary Elliot and her husband “there had been music, singing, talking, laughing, all that was most agreeable.” Commonly the honorable of lady or a music player lady would be asked to play the instruments. With or without dancing, music was an important part of family entertainment in the evening, and girls usually were taught to play a musical instrument.

b. Balls

Ball was the other pleasure of social activity that can be engaged with the whole citizen. There were two kinds of ball, public assembly and private ball. Public assembly usually requires the payment of a fee; while the private ball the guest will receive a handwritten invitation from the host (Sullivan, 2007: 117).The sessions for both private and public balls were the same, usually dancing, playing music, singing, or playing card for those who do not dance. When man asked woman to dance, there are some appropriate rules to do. For the purpose of dancing wait to be recognized before speaking with ladies, and a gentleman cannot ask a lady for more than two dances during the same evening (Young, 1885: 135; Pool, 1993: 55).

Isabella speaks to Catherine that her brother ask Isabella to dance again, “…my dear Catherine, what your brother wants me to do. He wants me to dance with him again, though I tell him that it is a most improper thing, and entirely against the rules. It would make us the talk of the place, if we were not to change partners.”

(Northanger Abbey, 2006: 53)

When the dance began, the first dancers were the hostess or her daughter and the gentleman of highest rank present (Pool, 1993: 80). As Sir William Lucas talked to Mr. Darcy praised his great dancing, “Such very superior dancing is not often seen. It is evident that you belong to the first circles (Pride and Prejudice, 2006: 103-104).” Besides the highest rank, the new bride also got the honorable to lead the dance. Mrs. Elton as a new bride so she has the honor to lead the dance,

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Mr. Weston and Mrs. Elton led the way, Mr. Frank Churchill and Miss Woodhouse followed. Emma must submit to stand second to Mrs. Elton, though she had always considered the ball as peculiarly for her. It was almost enough to make her think of marrying.

(Emma, 2006: 215)

Some partners engaged in conversation during dancing, they did it to make their partners not to feel bored. A woman who is usually tries to start conversation.However, how hard woman tries to make a good situation while dancing, they should be prepare for silence (Sullivan, 2007: 124). It happened to Elizabeth Bennet when she was dancing with Mr. Darcy, “It is your turn to say something now, Mr. Darcy. I talked about the dance, and you ought to make some kind of remark on the size of the room, or the number of couples (Pride and Prejudice, 2006: 102).”

4. Dressing Manners

a. Formal Dressing for Ladies

The variety of material of dress were depend on the season and style, including muslin, cambric, lawn, jaconet, silk, merino, satin, crepe, gauze, kerseymere, and velvet (Kloester, 2010: 196). However, muslin was the favorite material for dress in every occasion.White was the color of antiquity and the hallmark of elegance; moreover it was more easily dressed and accessorized than other colors (Downing, 2011: 27). It proofed when Edmund tells Fanny (in Mansfield Park, 2005: 216) “A woman can never be too fine while she is all white. No, I see no finery about you; nothing but what is perfectly proper. Your gown seems very pretty. I like these glossy spots. Has not Miss Crawford a gown something the same?” The married ladies gown trimmed in lace or tulle and flowers, or white silk or thin dresses over white satin (Hughes, 1998: 57).

Even though the train at the back gown became less fashionable for daily dress, several women were using it for ball gown to make an elegant look of their gown. Such as Catherine Morland and Isabella Thorpe when they attended ball and helped each other for the dance, pinned up each other’s train before dance (Northanger Abbey, 2006: 30). Ladies were usually pinned up the train of their gown to make them easier move and trampled upon their couple dance.

Women wore gloves and shawl to keep them warm when outside of the house. Mrs. Morland told Catherine to wear her shawl at night to keep her warm, “I beg, Catherine, you will always wrap yourself up very warm about the throat, when you come from the Rooms at night (Northanger Abbey, 2006: 11).”

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Figure 1. Evening Dress Figure 2. Ball Gown

b. Formal Dressing for Gentlemen

The gentlemen wore black cloth and trousers, waistcoat, and black shoes with gold or silver buckles for the evening wear (Sullivan, 2007: 75). As Mr. Elton’swear to attend dinner party in the Mr. and Mrs. Weston’s house, “…the step was let down, and Mr. Elton, spruce, black, and smiling… (Emma, 2006: 77).”Coats were plain, usually dark–colouredcloth, waistcoats could be of a wide variety of colours and fabrics. For the evening, white or black were the essentials colours (Kloester, 2010: 182).

“I longed to know whether he would be married in his blue coat.” (Pride and Prejudice, 2006: 352)

Lydia talked to Elizabeth after her marriage and came back to home with Wickham. Blue coat might be either civilian clothes or a uniform. The country militia each had a distinctive uniform: red was the most common, but royal blue and dark blue were not unknown.

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Figure 3. Evening Men’s Wear Figure 4. Militia Uniform

c. Informal Dressing for Ladies

The informal dresses for ladies were morning dress and visiting dress. Morning dress was the simpler style than the visiting dress. Plain or sprigged muslins in light or darker colored calico or wool are best for ladies’ morning gowns (Sullivan, 2007: 69). Habit is a riding or travelling dress as well as for horse-riding.

…it had wafted nothing worse than a thick mizzling rain;and having given a good shake to her habit,

(Northanger Abbey, 2006: 165)

The ladies were also worn outerwear to keep them warm and as their gown statements at once. There are various styles of outerwear: pelisse, spencer, and cloak.

“She is netting herself the sweetest cloak you can conceive.” (Northanger Abbey, 2006: 33)

Pelisse is a cloak with sleeves, or long coat, reaching on the ankles, trimmed with fur or lace. Pelisse believed can protect who wear it from the cold wind. Elizabeth Elliot was think about it (in Persuasion, 2006: 168), “If I thought it would not tempt her to go out in sharp winds, and grow coarse, I would send her a new hat and pelisse.”

Accessories were an essential part of a well-dressed for the Regency woman’s wardrobe and included a variety of hat, gloves, muffs, fans, and bags (Kloester, 2010: 206). The popular style of hat at that time is bonnet. It has strap to tie under the chin. Women’s in the Regency period like to modify their bonnet

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with lace, satin, or bow to make it prettier and different to the other bonnet or make it look like a new bonnet.Bags were not only for complement style, it also to carry stuffs. Woman in the Regency period safe their needle tools in the bags, called work bag.

Shoes were also known as slippers, had several models and its different functions. Either flat or low heel were fastened with ribbons or laces tied around the ankle or instep (Kloester, 2010: 205). For walking or riding, a lady wore half boots (Kloester, 2010: 206).The model of boots could be vary depend on the functions. However, ankle boots or half-boots are wearing regularly.

…she would hardly allow it even to drop at all, and her boots were so thick! much thicker than Miss Anne’s;

(Persuasion, 2006: 209)

Figure 5. Walking Dress Figure 6. Travelling Dress

d. Informal Dressing for Gentlemen

The same thing with women’s clothing, menswear in the daytime, a gentleman will wear a cutaway coat in a plain dark fabric, a style just made for riding, as well as a waistcoat, breeches, or pantaloons, boots, and a snowy linen shirt and cravat (Sullivan, 2007: 75).It was a habitual of men in the Regency era to wear coat when they were on a walk, a short travel or a journey. Coat is like their essential clothes. The coat can protect them from the extreme weather. For the soldier, army or navy, coat was their primary outfit in every occasion. Every gentleman has a great coat for driving an open vehicle or walking, “...when Henry, about an hour afterwards, came booted and great coated into the room…(Northanger, Abbey, 2006: 217).”

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A gentleman also wore accessories such as hats, cravat, walking stick and jewelries. Hat always wear when a gentleman goes outside. They also trimmed their hats to show the status or his condition. A gentleman wears different style of hat for a different occasion.In Persuasion, Mr. Elliot who is widower trimmed his hat with a black crape as sign that he is still in mourning for his wife death seventh months ago. It is undeniable that accessories sometimes show the status of the wearer(Persuasion, 2006: 175).

The neckcloth was a large square of fabrics, usually muslin, lawn, or silk, which was folded into either triangle or a wide band and tied at the front neck (Kloester, 2010: 189). Mr. Tilney shown it was true that he bought cravat on his himself, “I always buy my own cravats;” (Northanger Abbey, 2006: 20).For the man of fashion, the neckcloth or cravat was a crucial part of his daily dress.

The other essential accessories are gloves. It is shown in the novel that gentlemen also wear gloves for outdoor or indoor activity except in the dinner.As shown from the example above, gloves are the essential accessories for both ladies and gentlemen. Gloves could make their hands warm, yet stylish. Gloves have been design beautifully to match with their costumes.

Figure 7. Walking Dress for Men Figure 8. Travelling Men’s Wear

5. Table Manners a. Host

Dinner was became a social habitual in the Regency period. The host and hostess should be prepared for the dinner party in their house to make the dinner run smooth and comfortable for the guest. In Jane Austen’s novels, the host prepared

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everything to make the dinner party are not disappointing. From arrange the menu until prepare the guests’ special needs. It is shown in Northanger Abbey,

Henry Tilney to Catherine Morland “…Because no time is to be lost in frightening my old housekeeper out of her wits,because I must go and prepare a dinner for you to be sure.”

(Northanger Abbey, 2006: 217)

When Catherine Morland had a long visit in the Tilneys, the General asked her to visit Henry’s house at Woodston in the other day. Henry thought that he should be prepared everything especially the food, because the General always had an excellent dinner at his house. As the host, Henry tried to make his visitors feel comfortable as they feel at home.

If there is a guest who is invalid, be sure that the host has a special screen for the fire (Sullivan, 2007: 45). Mr. Knightley has been prepared for Mr. Woodhouse’s need, “especially prepared for him by a fire all the morning, he was happily placed, quite at his ease (Emma, 2006: 237).” In Hartfield, the fire has never been extinguished even in summer because Mr. Woodhouse’s condition and he always worried about being unhealthy if the fire was extinguished. So, Mr. Knightley gets the fireplace on for that day to make Mr. Woodhouse comfortable and Emma could enjoy the events.

b. Guest

Jane Austen's people lived at a time of transition regarding the conventions governing the entrance to the dining-room. Formerly it had been the rule for all the ladies to enter together first, followed by the men. Later etiquette dictated that each gentleman should offer an arm to his chosen - or allotted - lady to take her in; the host always escorting the female guest of highest social standing (Lane, 1995: 39).

Dinner was on table. – Mrs. Elton, before she could be spoken to, was ready; and before Mr. Woodhouse had reached her with his request to be allowed to hand her into the dining-parlour, was saying---

"Must I go first? I really am ashamed of always leading the way." (Emma, 2006: 197)

Mr. Woodhouse as the host and gentleman with the highest social rank offered an arm to Mrs. Elton as his special guest and a new bride. Hence, she and Mr. Woodhouse led the way to the dining room.

When the servants are present to clean up the dish; do not gossip or discuss private business; while the table is cleared and the second course is laid out (Sullivan, 2007: 109). If the servants hear what the host and the guest talking about, the servants gossiping the conversations they heard. The host and guest

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may start to talk when the servants have already exit from the room. As shown in Pride and Prejudice,

During dinner, Mr. Bennet scarcely spoke at all; but when the servants were withdrawn, he thought it time to have some conversation with his guest, and therefore started a subject in which he expected him to shine, by observing that he seemed very fortunate in his patroness.

(Pride and Prejudice, 2006: 74) D.Conclusion

Based on the research findings and discussion in previous chapter, the researcher draws the conclusion as follows. There are five etiquettes reflected in all of the six novels. Those etiquettes are visiting manners, speaking manners, party and balls, dressing manners, and table manners. The researcher found that most of right manners represented by the major characters, while the impolite manner by the minor characters. The characters’ misbehave cause of several factors, such as being offended, feeling curious, superior, and compete. The etiquette has changed along with the country development. Manners are very nature adapt to the times. British cultures are shaped by their histories and traditions. Etiquette is general, although it depends on each culture. However, the etiquette can be used everywhere not only in England society. It is reference to every social interaction and activity.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Ashfaq, Samina and Nasir Jamal Khattak. 2014. “Self-Realization and Social Harmony in Austen’s Pride and Prejudice.” Journal of Humanities & Social Sciences. Vol. XXII (2), 1-6. Pakistan: University of Peshawar.

Austen, Jane. 2005. Mansfield Park. San Diego: ICON Group International, Inc. __________. 2006. Emma. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

__________. 2006. Northanger Abbey. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. __________. 2006.Persuasion. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

__________. 2006. Pride and Prejudice. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. __________. 2006. Sense and Sensibility. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

Boarcas, Camelia. 2014. “Feminine Consciousness in Jane Austen’s Novels.” Journal of Research in Gender Studies, Vol. 4 (2), 1021-1027. SpiruHaret University.

Creswell, John W. 2007. Qualitative Inquiry and Research Design Choosing among Five Approaches 2nd Edition. London: Sage Publications.

Foust, Whitney R. 2013. The Miniature Tour: Jane Austen’s Use of Grand Tour Elements in Sense and Sensibility, Northanger Abbey, and Pride and Prejudice. Master’s Thesis.Tennessee Technological University.

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Guin, Katherine A. 2015. An Aristotelian Approach to Jane Austen’s Mansfield Park. Dissertation.Florida State University.

Huberman and Miles.1994. Qualitative Data Analysis Second Edition. London: Sage Publications.

Hughes, Kristine. 1998. The Writer’s Guide to Everyday Life in Regency and Victorian England. Ohio: Writer’s Digest Books.

Klarer, Mario. 2004. An Introduction to Literary Studies Second Edition. London: Routledge.

Kloester, Jennifer. 2010. Georgette Heyer’s Regency World. Illinois: Sourcebooks, Inc. Lane, Maggie. 1995. Jane Austen and Food. London: The Hambledon Press.

Le Faye, Deirdre. 2002. Jane Austen: The World of Her Novels. New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc.

Pool, Daniel. 1993. What Jane Austen and Charles Dickens Knew: From Fox Hunting to Whist. New York: Simon & Schuster Inc.

Olson, Veronica J. 2013. Conforming to Conventions in Jane Austen’s Northanger Abbey, Pride and Prejudice, and Emma.Master’s Thesis.

Sasso, Kendal. 2013. Analyzing Reader Response to the Plotlines of Secondary Characters in Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice and Northanger Abbey through Walter Fisher’s Narrative Paradigm. Master Thesis. Gonzaga University. UMI No. 1537276.

Sullivan, Margaret C. 2007. The Jane Austen Handbook: Proper Life Skills from Regency England. Philadelphia: Quirk Books.

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Figure 3. Evening Men’s Wear Figure 4. Militia Uniform c. Informal Dressing for Ladies

…it had wafted nothing worse than a thick mizzling rain;and having given a good shake to her habit,

(Northanger Abbey, 2006: 165)

The ladies were also worn outerwear to keep them warm and as their gown statements at once. There are various styles of outerwear: pelisse, spencer, and cloak.

“She is netting herself the sweetest cloak you can conceive.” (Northanger Abbey, 2006: 33)

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…she would hardly allow it even to drop at all, and her boots were so thick! much thicker than Miss Anne’s;

(Persuasion, 2006: 209)

Figure 5. Walking Dress Figure 6. Travelling Dress d. Informal Dressing for Gentlemen

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Figure 7. Walking Dress for Men Figure 8. Travelling Men’s Wear 5. Table Manners

a. Host