Dermatological and Transdermal Formulations

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1 PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

  Preface The past two decades have witnessed brilliant discoveries regarding the structure and func- tions of the stratum corneum.

  —Albert Kligman, 2000

  An immense amount of research has been carried out over the past two decades on the micromorphology of the skin, in particular of the stratum corneum, and the important role that this organ plays in the maintenance of human life. It has also been nearly two decades since the publication of Brian Barry’s book Dermatological

  . This book remains one of the most widely

  Formulations — Percutaneous Absorption

  and frequently cited references in the field of skin transport and also has been used extensively as an introduction to the complexities surrounding the theory and de- velopment of topical pharmaceutical products.

  The introduction and subsequent success of transdermal therapeutic systems have advanced our understanding of the structure of the skin and the mechanisms of transport through the barrier membrane. In addition, technological developments in molecular biology and pharmacology have led to an increased understanding of the biochemistry of skin diseases. The result is the introduction of new therapeutic strategies that use both existing and new chemical entities to treat skin diseases. This volume serves as a useful addition to the literature in the dermatopharmaceutics field.

  The rational treatment of skin diseases, based on the biochemical mechanisms underlying the pathology, is discussed

Chapter 2. For example, vitamin D deriv-

  ₃

  atives, such as calcipotriol and calcitriol, have recently been introduced as topical therapeutic modalities for the treatment of psoriasis. This is a result of the finding

  that some compounds of this type possess a high binding affinity to specific cellular receptors and are potent regulators of cell differentiation and inhibitors of cell pro- liferation in human keratinocytes. Cosmetic scientists have long known the epidermal advantages of another vitamin, retinol (vitamin A). Deficiency of this vitamin has been implicated in squamous metaplasia and keratinization of epithelial tissue, and several derivatives have been synthesized and evaluated for their effects in such diseases as acne, psoriasis, and hyperkeratosis. The results have been somewhat variable; however, the recent identification of several receptor proteins for retinoic acid should lead to the development of more potent analogs with fewer side effects.

  The ability to enhance skin penetration and permeation has been the subject of considerable research over the past two decades and is reviewed in

  science of penetration enhancement has expanded considerably over the past few years, and it is now possible to increase drug delivery across the skin using both chemical and physical means. Various synthetic (e.g., SEPA威 and Azone威) and nat- ural (e.g., terpenes) compounds have proved useful in this respect. Moreover, there is evidence that the skin penetration of large molecules such as insulin can be in- creased using physical methods of enhancement, such as iontophoresis.

  The use of the skin as a drug delivery route for both topical and systemic therapy is covered

  solid formulations is now a reality with products available for travel sickness, hy- pertension, angina, postmenopausal symptoms, male hypogonadism, pain, inflam- mation, and smoking cessation. Problems of irritation are being overcome with the development of skin-compatible materials, such as some of the newer pressure-sen- sitive adhesives. The success of such systems has been achieved only by means of a greater understanding of the physical and biochemical nature of the permeation routes through the skin, especially in relation to the intercellular lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum (as discussed In addition, the methods of studying percutaneous absorption, both in vivo and in vitro, have become more standardized thanks to the efforts of the American Association of Pharmaceutical Scientists (AAPS), the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and other indus- trial and regulatory

  vivo tape-stripping procedure. This chapter also gives a description of the use of cultured skin membranes for the study of irritation and other toxic responses to materials applied to the skin.

  The formulation of dermatological vehicles has become more innovative with the introduction of many new excipient materials and the development of delivery systems made up of vesicles such as liposomes and niosomes. These are discussed in and

7. As an example, the feasibility of using supersaturated solutions

  as vehicles for improving dermal drug delivery has been established. This type of strategy will undoubtedly reduce the amount of drug necessary for a therapeutic effect, which should result in fewer local side effects and a lower incidence of unwanted systemic effects. The use of liposomes and niosomes in cosmetic formu- lation is reputed to impart beneficial properties to such products as moisturizers. Although these types of vesicles can be useful in the targeting of pharmaceutical agents to epidermal sites of action, their usefulness in transporting drugs across the skin to systemic sites has yet to be fully established. The usefulness of multivariate optimization in the scale-up of dermatological dosage forms is discussed in

  

Chapter 8 covers bioequivalence of dermal and transdermal systems. Safety con-

  siderations are outlined in

  This book will be useful to pharmacy students and practitioners and cosmetic and veterinary scientists. It may also prove useful to toxicologists working in the field of risk assessment and dermatologists requiring a deeper understanding of the mechanisms of drug transport through the skin. The chapters have been authored by international experts in their fields and provide a comprehensive review of current dermatopharmaceutics.

  I acknowledge, and am extremely grateful for, the hard work and infinite pa- tience shown by the contributors to this volume. I would also like to acknowledge the unreserved help provided by my colleague Dr. Keith Brain. Finally, since the written word cannot fully express my love and gratitude to Peggy for her support and encouragement during many hours of word processing and reference hunting, this absentee husband will find other ways.

  Kenneth A. Walters Contents Preface Contributors

   Kenneth A. Walters and Michael S. Roberts

  

C. Colin Long

   Adam C. Watkinson and Keith R. Brain

   Michael S. Roberts, Sheree Elizabeth Cross, and Mark A. Pellett

   Keith R. Brain, Kenneth A. Walters, and Adam C. Watkinson

  

Adrian F. Davis, Robert J. Gyurik, Jonathan Hadgraft,

Mark A. Pellett, and Kenneth A. Walters

   Kenneth A. Walters and Keith R. Brain

  

  Formulations

  Christian Surber and Adrian F. Davis

  

  Multivariate Optimization and Product Homogeneity

  Orest Olejnik and Bruce A. Firestone

   Peter J. Dykes and Anthony D. Pearse

   Jagdish Singh and Howard I. Maibach Contributors Keith R. Brain, Ph.D. An-eX Analytical Services Ltd., Cardiff, Wales Sheree Elizabeth Cross, Ph.D. Department of Medicine, University of Queens-

  land, Princess Alexandra Hospital, Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

  Adrian F. Davis, Ph.D. GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare, Weybridge, Kent,

  England Cutest (Skin Toxicity Testing Company), Cardiff, Peter J. Dykes, B.Sc., Ph.D. Wales

  Allergan, Inc., Irvine, California Bruce A. Firestone, Ph.D.

  Robert J. Gyurik MacroChem Corporation, Lexington, Massachusetts Jonathan Hadgraft, D.Sc., F.R.S.C. Medway Sciences, University of Greenwich,

  Chatham Maritime, Kent, England

C. Colin Long, F.R.C.P. Department of Dermatology, Cardiff and Vale NHS Trust,

  Cardiff, Wales Department of Dermatology, University of California Howard I. Maibach, M.D. School of Medicine, San Francisco, California

  Allergan, Inc., Irvine, California Orest Olejnik, Ph.D., M.R.Pharm.S.

  Department of Dermatol- Anthony D. Pearse, M.Sc., M.I.Biol., C.Biol., F.I.Sc.T. ogy, University of Wales College of Medicine, and Cutest (Skin Toxicity Testing Company), Cardiff, Wales

  Mark A. Pellett, Ph.D., M.R.Pharm.S. Whitehall International, Havant, England Michael S. Roberts, Ph.D., D.Sc. Department of Medicine, University of Queens-

  land, Princess Alexandra Hospital, Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

  Jagdish Singh Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, College of Pharmacy,

  North Dakota State University, Fargo, North Dakota

  Christian Surber, Ph.D., Priv.-Doz. Dr. Institute of Hospital-Pharmacy, University

  Clinics, Kantonsspital Basel, Basel, Switzerland

  Kenneth A. Walters, F.I.Biol., Ph.D. An-eX Analytical Services Ltd., Cardiff,

  Wales An-eX Analytical Services Ltd., Cardiff, * Adam C. Watkinson, Ph.D., M.B.A. Wales *Current affiliation: Strakan Pharmaceuticals Ltd., Galashiels, Scotland.

1 The Structure and Function of Skin KENNETH A. WALTERS

  An-eX Analytical Services Ltd., Cardiff, Wales

MICHAEL S. ROBERTS

  University of Queensland, Princess Alexandra Hospital, Brisbane, Queensland, Australia

I. INTRODUCTION

  The skin is the largest organ of the body, accounting for more than 10% of body mass, and the one that enables the body to interact most intimately with its environ- ment. Figure 1 shows a diagrammatic illustration of the skin. In essence, the skin consists of four layers: the stratum corneum (nonviable epidermis), the remaining layers of the epidermis (viable epidermis), dermis, and subcutaneous tissues. There are also several associated appendages: hair follicles, sweat ducts, apocrine glands, and nails. Many of the functions of the skin can be classified as essential to survival of the body bulk of mammals and humans in a relatively hostile environment. In a general context, these functions may be classified as protective, maintaining homeo- stasis, or sensing. The importance of the protective and homeostatic role of the skin is illustrated in one context by its barrier property. This allows the survival of humans in an environment of variable temperature; water content (humidity and bathing); and the presence of environmental dangers, such as chemicals, bacteria, allergens, fungi, and radiation. In a second context, the skin is a major organ for maintaining the homeostasis of the body, especially in terms of its composition, heat regulation, blood pressure control, and excretory roles. It has been argued that the basal meta- bolic rate of animals differing in size should be scaled to the surface area of the body to maintain a constant temperature through the skin’s thermoregulatory control (1). Third, the skin is a major sensory organ in terms of sensing environmental influences, such as heat, pressure, pain, allergen, and microorganism entry. Finally, the skin is an organ that is in a continual state of regeneration and repair. To fulfill

  Components of the epidermis and dermis of human skin.

  Figure 1

  each of these functions, the skin must be tough, robust, and flexible, with effective communication between each of its intrinsic components.

  Many agents are applied to the skin either deliberately or accidentally, with either beneficial or deleterious outcomes. The use of topical products was evident in ancient times, and there are reports of systemic benefits of topical anti-infective and hormonal agents in the 1940s. Modern transdermal patch technology was introduced in the late 1970s. The main interests in dermal absorption assessment are in the application of compounds to the skin (a) for local effects in dermatology (e.g., cor- ticosteroids for dermatitis); (b) for transport through the skin for systemic effects (e.g., nicotine patches for smoking cessation); (c) for surface effects (e.g., sunscreens, cosmetics, and anti-infectives); (d) to target deeper tissues (e.g., nonsteroidal anti- inflammatory agents [NSAIDs] for muscle inflammation); and (e) unwanted absorp- tion (e.g., solvents in the workplace, agricultural chemicals, or allergens). summarizes these processes and sites of effect of compounds applied to the skin. The skin became popular as a potential site for systemic drug delivery because it

  > (A) Structure of the skin and processes of percutaneous absorption and trans- Figure 2 dermal delivery. Absorption can occur through sweat ducts (1), intercellular regions of the stratum corneum (2), and through the hair follicles (3). (B) Dermal absorption, sites of action and toxicity.

  was thought to (a) avoid the problems of stomach emptying, pH effects, and enzyme deactivation associated with gastrointestinal passage; (b) to avoid hepatic first-pass metabolism; and (c) to enable control of input, as exemplified by termination of delivery through removal of the device. In practice, as discussed later in this book, delivery of solutes through the skin is associated with various difficulties, such as (a) the variability in percutaneous absorption owing to site, disease, age, and species differences; (b) the skin’s ‘‘first-pass’’ metabolic effect; (c) the reservoir capacity of the skin; (d) irritation and other toxicity caused by topical products; (e) heterogeneity and inducibility of the skin in both turnover and metabolism; (f) inadequate definition of bioequivalence criteria; and (g) an incomplete understanding of the technologies that may be used to facilitate or retard percutaneous absorption. However, the con- trolled delivery of solutes through the skin continues to be of interest, with the further development of technologies, such as chemical penetration enhancement, sonopho- resis, transferosomes, and electroporation. The extent to which these are translated into practice will be defined by time.

II. GROSS STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION OF THE SKIN

   represents the skin components in terms of the various functions they perform. It needs to be emphasized that the protection, homeostatic, and sensing functions of the skin are both overlapping and integrated. For instance, barrier properties to a chemical entity involves resistance to its entry (barrier provided by stratum corneum), metabolism for that proportion of entity bypassing the stratum corneum (in viable epidermis), sensing of and attention to damage caused by entry (inflammatory me- diator release in epidermis, with involvement of dermis), and removal of entity from site by dermal blood supply and distribution into those body organs specifically responsible for elimination of the entity by metabolism (liver) and excretion (kidney). Heat regulation occurs through the use of the subcutaneous fat pad, physiological regulation of blood flow to effect, for instance, heat loss by vasodilation, and cooling by perspiration. We now consider the structure and functions provided by each skin component in some detail.

A. The Epidermis

  The epidermis performs a number of functions, as shown in one of the most important being the generation of the stratum corneum, as described later. The stratum corneum is the heterogeneous outermost layer of the epidermis and is ap- proximately 10–20 ␮ m thick. It is nonviable epidermis and consists, in a given cross- section, of 15–25 flattened, stacked, hexagonal, and cornified cells embedded in a mortar of intercellular lipid. Each cell is approximately 40 ␮ m in diameter and 0.5

  ␮ m thick. The thickness varies, however, and may be a magnitude of order larger

  in areas such as the palms of the hand and soles of the feet, areas of the body associated with frequent direct and substantial physical interaction with the physical environment. Not surprisingly, the absorption of solutes, such as methyl salicylate, is slower through these regions than through the skin of other parts of the body. The stratum corneum barrier properties may be partly related to its very high density (1.4 ₃ g/cm in the dry state), its low hydration of 15–20%, compared with the usual 70%

  Skin components and their function.

  Figure 3

  for the body, and its low surface area for solute transport (it is now recognized that most solutes enter the body through the less than 0.1- m–wide intercellular regions

  ␮

  of the stratum corneum). Each stratum corneum cell is composed mainly of insoluble bundled keratins (⬃70%) and lipid (⬃20%) encased in a cell envelope, accounting for about 5% of the stratum corneum weight. The intercellular region consists mainly of lipids and desmosomes for corneocyte cohesion, as described later. The barrier function is further facilitated by the continuous desquamation of this horny layer with a total turnover of the stratum corneum occurring once every 2–3 weeks. Ac- cordingly, very lipophilic agents, such as sunscreens and substances binding to the horny layer (e.g., hexachlorophane), may be less well absorbed into the body than would be indicated by the initial partitioning of the agents into the horny layer from an applied vehicle. The stratum corneum also functions as a barrier to prevent the loss of internal body components, particularly water, to the external environment. It is estimated that the efficiency of this barrier is such that water loss from ‘‘insensible _{2 ⫺1} perspiration’’ is restricted to 0.5 L/cm /h , or 250 mL of water per day for a normal

  ␮

  adult. Disorders of epithelization, such as psoriasis, lead to a faster skin turnover, sometimes being reduced to 2–4 days, with improper stratum corneum barrier func- tion formation.

  The cells of the stratum corneum originate in the viable epidermis and undergo many morphological changes before desquamation. Thus the epidermis consists of several cell strata at varying levels of differentiation (Fig. 4). The origins of the cells of the epidermis lie in the basal lamina between the dermis and viable epidermis. In this layer there are melanocytes, Langerhans cells, Merkel cells, and two major keratinic cell types: the first functioning as stem cells having the capacity to divide and produce new cells; the second serving to anchor the epidermis to the basement

  Epidermal differentiation: major events include extrusion of lamellar bodies, loss Figure 4 of nucleus, and increasing amount of keratin in the stratum corneum. The diagram is not to scale and only a few cells are shown for clarity. membrane (2). The basement membrane is 50–70 nm thick and consists of two layers—the lamina densa and lamina lucida—which comprise mainly proteins, such as type IV collagen, laminin, nidogen, and fibronectin. Type IV collagen is respon- sible for the mechanical stability of the basement membrane, whereas laminin and fibronectin are involved with the attachment between the basement membrane and the basal keratinocytes.

  The cells of the basal lamina are attached to the basement membrane by hemi- desmosomes, which are found on the ventral surface of basal keratinocytes (3). Hemidesmosomes appear to comprise three distinct protein groups: two of which are bullous pemphigoid antigens (BPAG1 and BPAG2), and the other epithelial cell- specific integrins (4–6). BPAG1 is associated with the organization of the cytoskel- etal structure and forms a link between the hemidesmosome structure and the keratin intermediate filaments. The integrins are transmembrane receptors that mediate at- tachment between the cell and the extracellular matrix. Human epidermal basal cells contain integrins ␣ ␤ , ␣ ␤ , and ␣ ␤ . Integrin ␣ ␤ and BPAG2 appear to be the _{2 1 3 1 6 4 6 4} major hemidesmosomal protein contributors to the anchoring of the keratinocyte, spanning from the keratin intermediate filament, through the lamina lucida, to the lamina densa of the basement membrane (7). In the lamina densa, these membrane- spanning proteins interact with the protein laminin-5 which, in turn, is linked to collagen VII, the major constituent of the anchoring fibrils within the dermal matrix. It has also been suggested that both BPAG2 and integrin mediate in the signal

  ␣ ^{6 ␤ 4}

  transductions required for hemidesmosome formation (8) and cell differentiation and proliferation. Integrin is associated with actin and may be linked with laminin-

  ␣ ^{3 ␤ 1}

  5. Epidermal wounding results in an up-regulation of these proteins that appears to be involved with cell motility and spreading. The importance of maintaining a secure link between the basal lamina cells and the basement membrane is obvious, and the absence of this connection results in chronic blistering diseases such as pemphigus and epidermolysis bullosa.

  In addition to hemidesmosome cell–matrix binding, another site for adhesion of the cells of the epidermal basal layer and the basal membrane is the adherens junction (9). The adherens junction expresses a protein profile different from des- mosomes and hemidesmosomes (10,11) and contains talin, vinculin, and cadherins, and with the possible participation of type XIII collagen (12). Whereas the desmo- somes and hemidesmosomes are linked to cytoplasmic keratin, the adherens junctions are linked to cytoplasmic actin microfilaments.

  The cohesiveness of, and the communication between, the viable epidermal cells, the cell–cell interaction, is maintained in a fashion similar to the cell–matrix connection, except that desmosomes replace hemidesmosomes. Adherens junctions are also located at keratinocyte–keratinocyte borders (13,14). At the desmosomal junction there are two transmembrane glycoprotein types: desmogleins and desmo- collins (each of three subtype desmosome-specific cadherins), which are associated with the cytoplasmic plaque proteins, desmoplakin, plectin, periplakin, envoplakin, and plakoglobin and provide a linkage to keratin intermediate filaments. On the other hand, in the adherens junction, classic cadherins act as transmembrane glycoproteins and these are linked to the actin filaments by -, -, and -catenins

  ␣ ␤ ␥

  (15,16). Thus, in the epidermis, the desmosomes are responsible for interconnecting individual cell keratin cytoskeletal structures, thereby creating a tissue very resistant to shearing forces.

  Epidermal cell cohesion and communication is provided by desmosomes and Figure 5

adherens junctions. Different functions are attributed to these junctions. See text for details.

  The importance of the calcium ion in cell regulation and intercellular com- munication has been known for some time (17). It is not surprising, therefore, that

  2⫹

  the formation of desmosomes and hemidesmosomes appears to be induced by Ca

  2⫹

  and mediated by protein kinase C (PKC) activation (18). The presence of Ca activates the metabolism of inositol phospholipids, resulting in the generation of diacylglycerol and inositol-1,4,5-triphosphate. The diacyglycerol subsequently acti- vates protein kinase C, which plays an important role in keratinocyte differentiation

  2⫹

  (19), and the inositol-1,4,5-triphosphate generates further Ca influx into the cyto-

  2⫹

  plasm. The epidermal distribution and function of Ca , and several other physio-

  2⫹

  logical elements, has been recently reviewed (20). As discussed later, Ca also plays a role in proteolysis and desquamation.

  Another cell type found in the epidermal basal layer is the Langerhans cell. Although it has been proposed that these dendritic cells plays a role in the control of the proliferation of keratinocytes (21), they have since become recognized as the prominent antigen-presenting cells of the skin immune system (22,23). As such, their main function appears to be to pick up contact allergens in the skin and present these agents to T lymphocytes in the skin-draining lymph nodes; thus, they play an im- portant role in contact sensitization. Cell surface moieties on the Langerhans cells are modified and the cells increase in size following topical application of hapten. The activated cells migrate from the epidermis to the dermis and from there to the regional lymph nodes where they sensitize T cells. The ability of Langerhans cells to migrate from bone marrow, localize in a specific region of the epidermis, and further migrate when activated, suggests that there is some mechanism for accu- mulation in the epidermis, adhesion to keratinocytes and the basement membrane, and for disruption of the adhesive bond. Migration into the epidermis may be me- diated by granulocyte–macrophage colony-stimulating factor (GM-CSF), tumor ne- crosis factor- ␣ (TNF- ␣ ), interleukin-6 (IL-6), transforming growth factor- ␤ (TGF-

  ␤ ), chemotactic cytokines, such as monocyte chemotactic protein (MCP), and

  cutaneous lymphocyte-associated antigen (CLAA) (24). The adhesive bonds within the epidermis appear to be formed by interaction of Langerhans cells with extracel- lular matrix proteins, such as fibronectin and laminin, through ␤ ^{1 -integrins (25).} Detachment of Langerhans cells from keratinocytes and the basement membrane following skin sensitization may be mediated by epidermal cytokines, including GM- CSF and TNF- ␣ (26), whereas cell maturation, which occurs during transit to the local lymph nodes, may be mediated by GM-CSF. Recently, it was shown that IL- 1 and TNF- acted directly on Langerhans cells to reduce adhesion to keratinocytes

  ␤ ␣ and the basement membrane by down-regulating the binding protein E-cadherin (27).

  Melanocytes are a further functional cell type of the epidermal basal layer and are also present in hair and eyes. The main function of these cells is to produce melanins, high molecular weight polymers of indole quinone, which affect pigmen- tation of the skin, hair, and eyes (28,29). Melanin is produced in the melanosomes: membrane-bound organelles that are transferred to keratinocytes, probably by a pro- cess involving phagocytosis (30), to provide a uniform distribution of pigmentation. Intracellular movement of melanosomes is possibly mediated by actin and microtu- bules (31). Visible pigmentation is dependent not only on the number, shape, and size of the melanosomes, but also on the chemical nature of the melanin. Hair color is governed by melanocytes which reside in the hair bulbs within the dermis (32). Melanosomes are transferred to the growing hair shaft. The major function of skin pigmentation is to provide protection against harmful environmental effects, such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, especially in the proliferating basal layers where the mu- tagenic effects of this type of insult have particularly serious implications. Melano- cytes remain attached to the basal layer and are thought to exist in a nonproliferative state when in contact with undifferentiated keratinocytes. Recent studies have indi- cated, however, that melanocytes can proliferate if they are separated from the basal layer and surrounded by differentiated keratinocytes (33).

  Regulation of melanogenesis is a complex process (34) involving some 80 genetic loci. It is mutations of these genes that lead to pathological states, such as albinism, vitiligo, and Waardenberg’s syndrome. The initial substrate for melanin is tyrosine, which is hydroxylated to dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA), and from there may be processed through several routes to produce either the eumelanins (5,6- dihydroxyindole melanin and 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid melanin) or pheomelanins Eumelanins are brown–black, whereas pheomelanins are yel- low–red. It is thought that interactions between the tridecapeptide -melanocyte-

  ␣ Routes of synthesis of the melanins: tyrosine is converted to dihydroxyphenyl- Figure 6 alanine (DOPA) by tyrosine hydroxylase and is subsequently converted to DOPAquinone by DOPA oxidase. Subsequent processing is by several different pathways to yield either dihy- droxyindole melanin, dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid melanin or pheomelanin. (From Ref.

  34.) stimulating hormone ( -MSH) and agouti signal protein are responsible for govern-

  ␣

  ing the type of melanogenesis pathway followed and that, in conditions in which

• MSH dominates, eumelanins are produced. UV radiation appears to increase pro-

  ␣

  duction of the precursor hormone proopiomelanocortin, which increases -MSH pro-

  ␣ duction, resulting in increased levels of eumelanins (35,36).

  The final type of cell found in the basal layer of the stratum corneum is the Merkel cell. These cells can be distinguished from the keratinocytes by their clear cytoplasm and lack of tonofilaments. The cells are closely associated with nerve endings, present on the other side of the basement membrane, which suggests they function as sensory receptors of the nervous system. Although histochemical evi- dence demonstrating the presence of acetylcholinesterase suggests a sensory role for Merkel cells, there has been no direct evidence for the release of neurotransmitters.

  Indeed, acetylcholinesterases have been found in keratinocytes (37). Despite this lack of confirmation, most researchers in the field agree that Merkel cells play a role (a) in the mechanosensory system; (b) in trophic action on peripheral nerve fibers; (c) in stimulating and maintaining proliferation and keratinocytes; and (d) in release of bioactive substances to subepidermal structures (38,39).

B. The Dermis

  The dermis, a critical component of the body, not only provides the nutrative, im- mune, and other support systems for the epidermis, through a thin papillary layer adjacent to the epidermis, but also plays a role in temperature, pressure, and pain regulation. The main structural component of the dermis is referred to as a coarse reticular layer. The dermis is about 0.1–0.5 cm thick and consists of collagenous fibers (70%), providing a scaffold of support and cushioning, and elastic connective tissue, providing elasticity, in a semigel matrix of mucopolysaccharides. In general, the dermis has a sparse cell population. The main cells present are the fibroblasts, which produce the connective tissue components of collagen, laminin, fibronectin, and vitronectin; mast cells, which are involved in the immune and inflammatory responses; and melanocytes involved in the production of the pigment melanin.

  Contained within the dermis is an extensive vascular network providing for the skin nutrition, repair, and immune responses and, for the rest of the body, heat exchange, immune response, and thermal regulation. The blood flow rate to the skin _{⫺1 ⫺3} is about 0.05 mL min cc of skin, providing a vascular exchange area equivalent to that of the skin surface area. Skin blood vessels derive from those in the subcu- taneous tissues, with an arterial network supplying the papillary layer, the hair fol- licles, the sweat and apocrine glands, the subcutaneous area, as well as the dermis itself. These arteries feed into arterioles, capillaries, venules, and, thence, into veins. Of particular importance in this vascular network is the presence of arteriovenous anastomoses at all levels in the skin. These arteriovenous anastomoses, which allow a direct shunting of up to 60% of the skin blood flow between the arteries and veins, thereby avoiding the fine capillary network, are critical to the skin’s functions of heat regulation and blood vessel control. Blood flow changes are most evident in the skin in relation to various physiological responses and include psychological effects, such as shock (‘‘draining of color from the skin’’) and embarrassment (‘‘blushing’’); temperature effects; and physiological responses to exercise, hemor- rhage, and alcohol consumption.

  The lymphatic system is an important component of the skin in regulating its interstitial pressure, mobilization of defense mechanisms, and in waste removal. It exists as a dense, flat meshwork in the papillary layers of the dermis and extends into the deeper regions of the dermis. Cross and Roberts (40) have shown that whereas blood flow determines the clearance of small solutes, such as water and lidocaine, lymphatic flow is an important determinant in the dermal removal of larger solutes, such as interferon. Also present in the dermis are a number of different types of nerve fibers supplying the skin, including those for pressure, pain, and temperature.

  C. The Subcutis

  The deepest layer of the skin is the subcutaneous tissue or hypodermis. The hypo- dermis acts as a heat insulator, a shock absorber, and an energy storage region. This layer is a network of fat cells arranged in lobules and linked to the dermis by interconnecting collagen and elastin fibers. As well as fat cells (possibly 50% of the body’s fat), the other main cells in the hypodermis are fibroblasts and macrophages. One of the major roles of the hypodermis is to carry the vascular and neural systems for the skin. It also anchors the skin to underlying muscle. Fibroblasts and adipocytes can be stimulated by the accumulation of interstitial and lymphatic fluid within the skin and subcutaneous tissue (41).

  D. Skin Appendages

  There are four skin appendages: the hair follicles with their associated sebaceous glands, eccrine sweat glands, apocrine sweat glands, and the nails. Each appendage has a different function as outlined in The hair follicles are distributed across the entire skin surface with the exception of the soles of the feet, the palms of the hand and the lips. A smooth muscle, the erector pilorum, attaches the follicle to the dermal tissue and enables hair to stand up in response to fear. Each follicle is as- sociated with a sebaceous gland that varies in size from 200 to 2000 m in diameter.

  ␮

  The sebum secreted by this gland consisting of triglycerides, free fatty acids, and waxes, protects and lubricates the skin as well as maintaining a pH of about 5. The fractional area for these is slightly more than 1/1000 of the total skin surface (see Table 1). Also described in Table 1 are the eccrine or sweat glands and apocrine glands, accounting for about two-thirds and one-third of all glands, respec- tively. The eccrine glands are epidermal structures that are simple, coiled tubes aris- ing from a coiled ball, of approximately 100 ␮ m in diameter, located in the lower dermis. It secretes a dilute salt solution with a pH of about 5, this secretion being stimulated by temperature-controlling determinants, such as exercise and high en- vironmental temperature, as well as emotional stress through the autonomic (sym- pathetic) nervous system (see Table 1). These glands have a total surface area of about 1/10,000 of the total body surface. The apocrine glands are limited to specific body regions and are also coiled tubes. These glands are about ten times the size of the eccrine ducts, extend as low as the subcutaneous tissues and are paired with hair follicles.

  In many respects the nail may be considered as vestigial in humans. However, some manipulative and protection function can be ascribed. Certainly nail plate com- position, layers of flattened keratinized cells fused into a dense, but somewhat elastic

  Appendages Associated with the Skin Table 1

  Appendage Hair follicle and sebaceous

Parameter gland Eccrine gland Apocrine gland Nails

Function Protection (hair) and lubrication Cooling Vestigal secondary sex Protection

  (sebum) gland? Distribution Most of the body Most of the body Axillae, nipples, anogenital Ends of fingers ₂ and toes Average/cm 57–100 100–200 Variable — _{3 ⫺4} Fractional area

  10 Variable — 2.7 ⫻ 10 Secretions Sebum Sweat (dilute ‘‘Milk’’ protein, lipoproteins, Nil saline) lipid Secretions stimulated by Heat (minor) Heat, cholinergic Heat — Biochemical innervation — Cholinergic Cholinergic (?) — of gland response Control Hormonal Sympathetic Sympathetic nerves — nerves Copyright 2002 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Lipid Composition of Human Sebum Table 2 _{a a}

  Lipid Lumen of gland Skin surface Squalene

  15

  15 Wax esters

  25

  25 Cholesteryl esters

  2

  2 Triglycerides

  57

  42 _b Fatty acids 15 _a Cholesterol

  1

  1 _b Expressed as weight%.

  Most abundant fatty acid in human sebum is C 16:1 .

  Source : Courtesy of P. Wertz.

  mass, will afford some protection to the highly sensitive terminal phalanx. The cells of the nail plate originate in the nail matrix and grow distally at a rate of about 0.1 mm/day. In the keratinization process the cells undergo shape and other changes, similar to those experienced by the epidermal cells forming the stratum corneum. This is not surprising because the nail matrix basement membrane shows many biochemical similarities to the epidermal basement membrane (42). Thus, the ex- pression of integrins ␣ ␤ and ␣ ␤ within the nail matrix basement membrane zone _{2 1 3 1} is indicative of a highly proliferative tissue. The structure of the keratinized layers is very tightly knit but, unlike the stratum corneum, no exfoliation of cells occurs. Given that it is a cornified epithelial structure, the chemical composition of the nail plate is not remarkable, and there are many similarities to that of the hair (43,44). Thus, the major components are highly folded keratin proteins (containing many disulfide linkages) with small amounts (0.1–1.0%) of lipid, the latter presum- ably located in the intercellular spaces. The principal plasticizer of the nail plate is water, which is normally present at a concentration of 7–12%.

  The nail plate comprises two major layers (the dorsal and intermediate layer) with, possibly, a third layer adjacent to the nail bed (45,46). The dorsal nail plate is harder and thinner than the intermediate plate, suggesting that there are differences in the chemical composition of the two layers, which further suggests that applied drugs may possess differing partitioning tendencies between the layers. The latter is a particularly important consideration for the topical treatment of fungal infections of the nail (onychomycoses) (47), and mechanisms for enhancing solubility and diffusivity of drugs within these layers have been suggested (48).

III. DEVELOPMENT OF THE STRATUM CORNEUM

  It is the structure of the stratum corneum that enables terrestrial animals to exist in a nonaquatic environment without desiccation. The ability to control both the loss of water and the influx of potentially harmful chemicals and microorganisms is the result of the evolution of a unique mixture of protein and lipid materials that col- lectively form this coherent membrane composed of morphologically distinct do- mains. These domains are principally proteinaceous, the keratinocytes; or lipophilic, the intercellular spaces. Because of the lack of nuclei in the keratinocytes, the stratum corneum is often considered to be a dead tissue, but this is certainly a simplistic

  Amino Acid Composition of Nail, Hair, and Stratum Corneum Table 3 Amino acid Nail Hair Stratum corneum _{a a a} Lysine

  3.1

  2.5

  4.2 Histidine

  1.0

  0.9

  1.5 Arginine

  6.4

  6.5

  3.9 Aspartic acid

  7.0

  5.4

  7.9 Threonine

  6.1

  7.6

  3.0 Serine

  11.3

  12.2

  13.6 Glutamic acid

  13.6

  12.2

  12.6 Proline

  5.9

  8.4

  3.0 Glycine

  7.9

  5.8

  24.5 Alanine

  5.5

  4.3

  4.4 Valine

  4.2

  5.5

  3.0 Methionine

  0.7

  0.5

  1.1 Isoleucine

  2.7

  2.3

  2.7 Leucine

  8.3

  6.1

  6.9 Tyrosine

  3.2

  2.2

  3.4 Phenylalanine

  2.5

  1.7

  3.2 Half-cysteine

  10.6 _{b b b}

  15.9

  1.2 _a

Sulfur 3.2% 4.5% 1.4%

_b Expressed as residues per 100 residues.

  Expressed as % dry weight.

  Source : Ref. 43.

  description and many events occur that indicate that ‘‘dead’’ does not necessarily indicate a lack of response.

A. Epidermal Differentiation

  The development of the stratum corneum from the keratinocytes of the basal layer involves several steps of cell differentiation, which has resulted in a structure-based classification of the layers above the basal layer (the stratum basale). Thus the cells progress from the stratum basale through the stratum spinosum, the stratum granu- losum, the stratum lucidium, to the stratum corneum (49). Cell turnover, from stratum basale to stratum corneum, is estimated to be on the order of 21 days.

  The exact mechanism whereby keratinocytes in the basal layer are stimulated to initiate the differentiation process is not fully understood. Protein kinase C and several keratinocyte-derived cytokines may play a regulatory role in the differenti- ation process (50,51). Thus, for example, interleukin-1 (IL-1) stimulates the produc- tion of other cytokines, in both autocrine and paracrine fashion, which act to induce proliferation and chemotaxis These inducing cytokines include GM-GSF, transforming growth factor- ␣ (TGF- ␣ ), nerve growth factor, amphiregulin, IL-6, and

  IL-8. On the other hand, transforming growth factor- (TGF- ), the production of

  ␤ ␤

  which is also initiated by IL-1, suppresses keratinocyte growth, but stimulates ker- atinocyte migration, the latter possibly as a result of modulation of hemidesmosomal and desmosomal integrins. It has also been suggested that urokinase-type plasmin- ogen activator (uPA) may activate growth factors and stimulate epidermal prolifer-

  Figure 7 Cytokine involvement in keratinocyte proliferation. Secretion of interleukin-1 (IL-1) leads to the autocrine and paracrine stimulation of the release of other cytokines, including interleukins-6 and -8 (IL-6 and IL-8), granulocyte–macrophage colony-stimulating factor (GM-CSF) and transforming growth factor- ␣ (TGF- ␣ ), all of which induce epidermal proliferation. Transforming growth factor- ␤ (TGF- ␤ ) and tumor necrosis factor- ␣ (TNF- ␣ ), both of which suppress proliferation, are also released. TGF- ␤ can induce keratinocyte mi- gration. (From Ref. 51.) ation (52). Generation and activation of the serine protease, plasmin, from plasmin- ogen is induced by uPA and the activated plasmin instigates localized extracellular proteolysis of cell surface adherent proteins and eventual disruption of the hemides- mosomes. The increasing understanding of the role of cytokines in the maintenance of epidermal homeostasis has stimulated research into the possibility of using such compounds as active principles in cosmetic products (53).

  The stratum spinosum (prickle cell layer), which lies immediately above the basal layer, consists of several layers of cells that are connected to each other and to the stratum basale cells by desmosomes and contain prominent keratin tonofila- ments. The cells of the stratum spinosum have a larger cytoplasm than those of the stratum basale. Within the cytoplasm are numerous organelles and filaments. It is clear that the ␣ -keratins of the stratum spinosum are somewhat different from those found in the stratum basale (54), indicating that, although mitosis has ceased and a phase of terminal differentiation has been initiated, the cell still maintains a capacity to alter the transcriptional expression of its genes. In the outer cell layers of the stratum spinosum, intracellular membrane-coating granules (100–300 nm in diam- eter) appear within the cytosol, marking the transition between the stratum spinosum and stratum granulosum.