Archaeological remains of banten lama - Repositori Institusi Kementerian Pendidikan dan Kebudayaan

archaeological
remains
of
banten lama

archaeological
remains
of
banfen lama

archaeological
remains
of
banten lama

Pusat Penelitian Arkeologi Nasional
Departemen Pendidikan dan Kebudayaan

Copyright
Pusat Penelitian Arkeologi Nasional
National Research Centre of Archaeology)

1998

Plan of Archa e ologica l Site at Ba nte n La ma

7

I ntroduction

Fortress and Royal Palace ot Surasowan

A.

H istorica l ba ckground of Ba nte n

1.

Banten prior

to the 14th


Century

Reports of historical sources on Banten f r o m the period prior t o the 16th
Century are not t o be f o u n d , but at least between the 12th to the 15th centuries Banten was already a harbour f o r the ki ngdom of Sunda. Accordi ng to ten
Dam, in the vi ci ni ty of Pajajaran, capital of the ki ngdo m of Sunda, w h i c h was
situated near the present t o w n o f Bogor, were f o u n d t o land-routes connecting
the coast w i t h the capital (ten D a m , 1957 : 29). The rivers f l o w i n g f r o m the
interior d o w n t o the n o r t h coast of Java were already used as connecting routes
between the interior and the coastal area. One o f the land-routes was the road
f r o m Pajajaran via Jasinga, t u r n i n g northwards at Rangkasbitung, ending at
Banten Girang, about 3 kilometres south of the present t o w n of Serang (some
13 kilometres f r o m Banten Lama). Considering the name Banten Girang (upstreams Banten), we may assume the possibility o f the existence of a Banten
Hilir (downstreams Banten). But was there indeed such a t o w n by that name,
and if so, could it perhaps be identified w i t h the present t o w n of Banten Lama.

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When T o m e Pires visited Banten in 1513, it was still an insignificant harbour, though already mentioned as being the second largest harbour o f the
ki ngdom of Sunda, after Sunda Kelapa. A lively trade between Banten and
Sunda was already existing.

Vessels f r o m all over the c o u n t r y were anchoring at Banten. A t that time
Banten already exported rice, foodstuffs and pepper f r o m that harbour. (Cortesao, 1 9 4 1 , 168-169, Meilink - Roelofsz, 1962: 124) Banten became an
i mportant harbour in 1522, when the k i n g d o m of Sunda exported 1000
" b a h a r " of pepper annually (van der Chijs, 1 8 8 1 : 4 ) .
2.

Mesjid Agung

Banten in the 16th

Century

When the Islamic ki ngdom of Banten was f o u n d e d , the center of power,
originally in Banten Girang, was moved t o the t o w n of Surasowan on the coast.
F r o m the economic poi nt o f view, this shift was meant t o facilitate the
connection between the n o r t h coast o f Java w i t h the coast of Sumatra, by way
of Strait Sunda and the Indian Ocean. This situation was caused by the political
conditions in Southeast Asia at that t i m e , when Malacca had already fallen
under suzerainty of Portugal, so that the merchants w h o were averse of dealing
w i t h the Portuguese moved their trade-route to Strait Sunda.


10

11

The t o w n of Surasowan was made capital of the ki ngdom of Banten as decreed by the first moslem ruler of Banten (Djajadiningrat, 1913: 3 3 ) . The
arrival of the moslem ruler at Banten occurred circa 1524-1525, when Banten
was still under the suzerainty of Sunda (De Graaf, 1974: 118). Accordi ng to
local t r a d i t i o n , the last ruler of Sunda at Wahanten Girang (= Banten Girang)
was Prabu (King) P u c u k u m u m , son of Prabu Seda (Raffles, 1817, I I , 133).
Sunan Gunung Jati or Syeikh Syarif Hidayatullah w h o became the first
Moslem ruler of Banten was not crowned as its first K i n g , but put his son,
Maulana Hasanuddin in charge of the k i n g d o m . When he founded the t o w n o f
Surasowan in the area of w h a t is n o w k n o w n as Banten Lama, Sunan Gunung
Jati ordered not t o move theywutsrqponmlkjihgfedcbaWTSPMKGFCBA
Watu gilang (ceremonial stone) in f r o n t o f the
Palace, as its removal might cause destruction (Djajadiningrat, 1913: 3 3 ) .
Hasanuddin, w h o in 1526 married the daughter of Sultan Trenggana, ascended
the throne of Banten in 1552 (De Graaf, 1974: 120). Besides ordering the
construction of the Surasowan palace, Hasanuddin b u i l t also t w o mosques in

the area of Banten Lama. The first one is the building on the west side of the
alun-alun (square).
Hasanuddin was succeeded by Maulana Yusuf as Banten's second ruler
(1570 — 1580). He expanded the t e r r i t o r y of the ki ngdom of Banten, reaching

Minaret of the Mosque of Banten Lama

13

far into the interior which had been originally under the suzerainty of Sunda
and even successfully occupied the capital of the ki ngdom at Pakuwan. (De
Graaf, 1974: 122). According to t r a d i t i o n , Maulana Yusuf enlarged the
Mesjid Agung (Great Mosque) by adding a gallery and b u i l t also another mosque at Kasunyatan (south of Banten Lama).

"Ki Amuk ", the Sultan's Canon

When Maulana Yusuf died, Prince Muhammad the ri ghtful heir was to
ascend the throne, but as he was still a c h i l d , a regent was appointed: Prince
A r i a Japara (De Graaf, 1974: 123). One i mportant event during the reign of
Prince Muhammad was the arrival of Dutch ships in 1596 whi ch anchored in

the harbour of Banten under command of Cornelis de H o u t m a n . The w r i t t e n
notes left by the Dutch guests are valuable source o f i n f o r m a t i o n on Banten.
In a note of Jan Kaerel Jansz, dated August 6," 1959, was mentioned that foreign ships whi ch anchored in Banten could onl y do so after obtaining consent
of the Syahbandar. In order t o enter the t o w n of Banten f r o m the harbour one
had first go through the " t o l h u i s ' of the customs office (toll-gate) (Rouffaer,
1929: 201).

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3.

Ban ten in the 17th - 19th

centuries

One characteristic of the political and social condition of Banten in the
17th Century was beginning of the impact of the Dutch on the administration and trade in royal circles. Observing the list of sultans who ruled Banten
one nonted that Banten was on its peak of prosperity and progress in the
17 th Century
Following is the list of sultants :

a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.

Abul Mufakir Mahmud Abdul Kadir
Abdul Ma'ali Ahmad
Abul Fath Abdul Fattah
Abu Nasr Abdul Qahhar
Abu Faddal
Abul Mahasin Zainul 'Abidin

1596 16401651 1672 1687 1690 -

1640
1651
1672
1687

1690
1733

17

/.

Compound

of Surasowan Palace

The whole compound is now in ruins, w i t h o n l y the surrounding wall and
some o f its parts left. The remains consist of foundations and parts o f the
ruined walls of the rooms in the palace, remains of a bathing place and a pond
w i t h a floating pavillion. The surrounding ('fortress') wall measuring 0,5 - 2
metres in height is still preserved w i t h an approximate w i d t h o f five metres.
In some parts, in particular in the south and east, one can see that the whole
wall has vanished.
The palace compound is oblong in plan and about three hectaeres large.
The entrance is the large gate on the n o r t h side, facing the alun-alun (square).

According t o old maps and drawings, there used t o be a door o n the east side,
now invisible, as it is buried in the soil. The four corners of the surrounding
wall formed bastions, being protruding parts of that wal l . Meanwhile, inside
of these bastions were f o u n d f o u r entrance doors leading t o former halls.
According t o old maps, one can see that this compound was f o r m e r l y surrounded by a moat, constructed f o r defence purposes. Part of this moat now no
longer exist. Left are onl y the southern and western parts.

Ruins of "Keraton Kaibon", Palace of the Sultan's Mother -

According t o the Sejarah Banten, this Surasowan palace c o m p o u n d , also
named Kedaton Pakuwan, was bui l t during the reign of Maulana Hasanuddin
(1552 - 1570), while the 'fortress' wall and the gate, constructed f r o m bricks
and rocks, were b u i l t by Maulana Jusuf (1570 - 1580).

19

2.ywutsrqponmlihfedcaTSPMGC
Compound of the Great Mosque
T his compound consists of a. the M osque w ith galleries on the le ft and
right; b. the T iya ma h; c. the towe r; d. the ce me te ry north of the mosque.

a.

The Great Mosque. According to the Sejarah Ba nte n this mosque was built

during the reign of M aulana H a sa nuddin. S imila r to othe r mosques, its
ground-pla n is also square. It has a roof w ith five tiers. T he galleries on the
le ft and right of the building were built in a later pe riod. O n the gallery on
the le ft ( north) are the tombs of some Banten sultans and the ir relatives,
a mong othe rs of M aulana Hasanuddin and his w ife ; S ulta n Agung T irtayasa
and S ulta n A b u Nasr A bdul Q ahhar. M e a nwhile on the gallery on the right,
(south) are the tombs of S ulta n M uha mma d, S ulta n Z a inul A bidin and
othe rs.
b.

The Tiyamah.

T his in an a dditiona l building south of the Great M osque,

a nd on the right of the gallery w ith the tombs. Its form is oblong, while
it has tw o stories. T he style is O ld D utch and according to tra dition built

by C ardeel, a D utch a rchite ct. T his building was forme rly used as a me e ting
place and pa rticula rly to discuss religious ma tte rs.

Ruins of "Fort Speelwijk"

21

20

c.ywutsrqponmlihfedcaTSPMGC
The Tower (Menara, Minaret).

T he M ina re t stands in the front yard of the

compound. According to tra dition, it was also built by Lucas Cardeel. I t is
not know n for ce rta in whe n this mina re t was built. In the "Journa e l van de
R e yse " (De

Eerste Schipvaart der Nederlanders naar O ost-lndie

onde r

C ornells de H outma n 1B9B — 1B97) is a map of Ba nte n showing this mina re t, while the Sejarah Banten me ntione d tha t: "Ka nje ng M aulana (Hasanuddin) had a son, named M aulana Y usuf whose marriage took place a bout
the time the mina re t was b u ilt". Based upon tha t re port, K.C . C rucq was
of the opinion tha t the mina re t of the G reat Mosque of Banten already
existed before 1 B6 9 /1 B7 0 . M oreover, on a rchite ctura l evidence he con
eluded tha t the mina re t was built in the second half of the 1 6 th ce ntury,
viz between 1B60 d.

Gate of the Chinese Temple at Pabean

1B70.

T he cemetery on the northe rn side of the compound. Here are found several old and new graves.

3.

The Canon Ki

Amuk

T his ca non, orogina lly standing at Ka ra nga ntu, is now placed on the corner
of the alun-alun, in front of the Surasowan compound. O n this canon are three
inscriptions w ith Ara b characters and in Ara bic. One inscription, on top of its

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m o u th , is: "a kiba tu'l - kha irisa la ma tu'l - im a n i". According to K.C . C rucq w ho
made a study of the canons fro m the forme r Ba nte n sultanate, this inscription
is a chronogra m, meaning 1 4 5 0 Saka ( A . D . 1 5 2 8 / 1 5 2 9 ) . C rucq was looking for
a conne ction between this canon w i t h Ki Jima t, the canon which S ulta n T re nggana of Demak presented to S unan G unung Ja ti.

4.

The Pacinan Tinggi Mosque

In the ka mpung of Pacinan still exist ruins of an old mosque. Besides the
remains of the main building also stands pa rt of the wa ll of themihrab.

In the

front ya rd le ft of the mosque, are remains of the mine ra t, oblong in groundpla n. T he mina re t itself w ith the uppe r pa rt, now a ruin, is constructe d of
brick, while rocks were used for the founda tion and foot or base. According
to tra dition, the mosque and the mina re t already existed before the G reat
Mosque of Banten was built.

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24

5.ywutsrqponmlkjihgfedcbaWTSPMKGFCBA
Compound of the Kaibon Palace
The c o m p o u n d o f the Kai bon Palace is located in the kampung o f K r o y a .
This palace is said t o be residence o f Ratu (Queen) Asi yah, the mother of
Sultan Safi uddi n. The buildings were destroyed by the D u t c h Colonial Government in 1 8 3 2 . What is left are now all in ruins w i t h o n l y the foundations
and part of the surrounding walls and the gates.
6.

The Koja

Mosque

What is left, is onl y a ruin on the southern bank side of the road leading
f r o m Speelwijk t o Karangantu. A r o u n d this mosque was the settlement of the
Koja c o m m u n i t y (residents f r o m other islands).
7.

The Fortress of

Speelwijk

This fortress is located in the kampung o f Pamarican near Pabean. It is
now a r u i n , but part o f its walls is still standing in one piece, in particular those
on the north side. The fortress was bui l t by the D u t c h in 1685, on the ruins of
the northern part o f the surrounding wall of the t o w n of Banten Lama. Outside
this fortress is the moat, while on the east is the cemetery of the European residents.

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8.

The Chinese

Temple

This temple stands west o f the Fortress o f Speelwijk. There used t o be another one at Pacinan (the Chinese Quarters), b u i l t by the local Chinese. It is not
k n o w n for sure when this temple was b u i l t . According t o t r a d i t i o n building of
this temple t o o k place in the early days of the Banten sultanate.
9.

Watu Gilang

There are t w o " W a t u Gilangs" on the alun-alun, one in f r o n t of the Surasowan Palace and the other on the n o r t h side of the alun-alun. These are
square-shaped w i t h a level surface and made of andesite. These watu gilangs
were f o r m e r l y used at the event of enthronement of the Sultans of Banten.

DrawingzyxwvutsrqponmlkjihgfedcbaZYWVTSRQPONMLKJIHGFEDCBA
of the port of Bantam in the 17th Century