Em broidery Product C haracteristics Analysis Based on C ustom er Satisfaction as a Trial Project for Em pow ering SM Es in East Java (C ase Study in Em broidery SM Es in Sidoarjo)

Jutt S urjanti

I M ade Londen Batan

A gun g Priyo B udiono

A n n eke E ndan g K Abstract

Sidoarjo has been known as the center of SMEs. As for embroidery

most dominant variable. The research that will be conducted

in based on the * previous research that has been conducted by the researchers regarding the customer perception of the characteristics of embroidery product.

This research in an exploratory research. The research method that will be tfsed is qualitative

descriptive which will

be quantified by Quality Function Deployment (QFD) Method. The subject of this research

is customers, embroidery experts, and TTG experts. The results of the survey consist of data regarding the customer

4 (four) embroidery outlets in Sidoarjt*. The data collected is arranged into

subsequently comprised into the construct of quality performance. Afterward, the data is processed using WELCOME program and applied

the customer

into an electric embroidery machine which could produce formatted embroidery pattern.

Embroidery patterns that are desired by customers are flowery type such jasmine, rose, cherry blossom, and Kamboja with size in a range of 1-3 cm, w h i c h is l o c a t e d in a v a r i e t y o f p l a c e s , u s i n g K E S E T t e c h n i q u e ,

a n d m o d i f i e d i n t o 2 d i m e n s i o n w i t h b e a d s , a n d t h e c o l o r t h a t is preferred in secondary color such as orange, violet, and green, and the type of fabrics that is favored is cotton.

In term of the technological capability that is possessed by the crafter, all

quality construct , can be satisfied. This is possible because a meeting regarding the capability' and competence of the crafter has been arranged

demand for the customer

b e f o r e t h e s u r v e y w a s c o n d u c t e d . A l l c r a f t e r t h a t is s u r v e y e d in

e m b r o i d e r y p a t t e r n a n d p r o c e s s is s t i l l m a n u a l w i t h o u t t h e u s e of computerized machine with embroidery pattern software. Key

satisfaction, and Sidoarjo.

words: embroidery,

QFD,

customer

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72 Embroidery’ P roduct Characteristics Analysis Based on Customer Satisfaction ............. INTRODUCTION

Background

Along this time, Sidoarjo is a centre zone which has been famous through the entire world. As a consideration of embroidery product, price variable is a most dominant variable, until it is necessary to pay attention upon consumer’s image about price. If the consumers want to shop in SIK, then

image which is buried on them are cheap price and good product. S m a l l i n d u s t r y c e n t r e i s a c r i s i s r e s i s t a n t i n s t i t u t i o n , it m e a n s t h a t w i t h the existence of state economic problems, then SIK embroidery industry still

remain survive, even develop. Therefore, suggestion or input from many kinds parties are expected for products developing.

S m a l l i n d u s t r y i s a p r o p r i e t a r y e n t e r p r i s e w h e r e t h e e n t e r p r i s e l e a d e r is an enterprise owner. The embroidery enterprise leader has responsibility to repay in associate with bank. Level of consequence and responsibility on repay

is an advantage of Small and Middle Enterprises (SMEs). ,

U n e s a i s a n e d u c a t i o n a l i n s t i t u t i o n . It h a s l a b o r a t o r y c o m p l e t e d w i t h tools for workshop and multi and cross discipline expert in industry technology

m a j o r . U n e s a c o o p e r a t e s w i t h I T S t o d e v e l o p e m b r o i d e r y s m a l l i n d u s t r y in Sidoarjo.

Problems Formulation

a. Research for Customers, in order to know: Customers response towards SIK’s

expectation, Critic towards embroidery product, Suggestion from Customers.

b. R e s e a r c h f o r E x p e r t I: e m b r o i d e r y e x p e r t , i n o r d e r t o k n o w : E x p e r t I response from the model which is expected by the customers about SIK s embroidery product, Critics toward SIK’s embroidery product, Suggestion

from embroidery expert, Sidoarjo SIK’s embroidery specification and competency, Embroidery product developing method based on customers response (market demand) through peer group.

c. Research for Expert II: Teknologi Tepat Guna expert, in order to know, response about production technology which

i s u s e d b y e x p e r t II o n Sidoarjo embroidery product which one is expected by the customers through peer group.

d. Research for Expert

in order to know: Responses (critic and suggestion) toward manufacture design (pioduction process)

efficient embroidery manufacFure design (production process) to be applied in SIK, then will be produced optimal product for embroidery product developing through peer group.

on embroidery

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Research Purposes

in order to know: Craftsman response towards product developing which is offered by researcher t e a m , C r a f t s m a n c r i t i c a n d s u g g e s t i o n t o w a r d p r o d u c t d e v e l o p i n g w h i c h is offered by researcher team, with expectation that the craftsman can develop the p r o d u c t l a t e r . F u r t h e r m o r e , it c a n b e o b t a i n e d s u g g e s t i o n f r o m t h e c r a f t s m a n about constraint or obstacle on product developing.

Research purposes

be achieved is developing Embroidery Industry Centre in East Java (SIK Bordir Bangil, Pasuruan, and Gresik) by applying technology which has been model in SIK Sidoarjo.

Long term

purpose,which

wants to

characteristics and developing from the perspectives of embroidery design and basic technique which are appropriate with market demand and it can be develop by the

Special target

c r a f t s m a n i n S I K B o r d i r S i d o a r j o . F u r t h e r m o r e , it is e x p e c t e d c a n b e o b t a i n e d patent right to appreciate creativity of design and basic technique of embroidery p r o d u c e d b y S I K in S i d o a r j o .

x LITERATURE REVIEW

The Earlier Research

The result of the research about Analysis Some Product Characteristics which Influence Frequency of SIK Product Embroidery Purchasing in Sidoarjo Regency East Java Province Surabaya' (Jim Surjanti. 2000) for all respondents shows that price, design, color combination, art value, working result, quality and product appearance variables influence frequency of purchasing both p a r t i a l l y a n d s i m u l t a n e o u s l y , c o n t r i b u t i o n t o w a r d s f r e q u e n c y o f p u r c h a s e is

74.41 %, in other hand, contribution from others independent variables is 26.29 % , p r i c e v a r i a b l e is a m o s t d o m i n a n t v a r i a b l e w h i c h i n f l u e n c e f r e q u e n c y o f embroidery

contribution towards purchasing is 15.45 %. Later

variable’s

researcher is about The Differentiation Purchasing Motives of SIK Embroidery Product shows that there

is s i g n i f i c a n t d i f f e r e n t i a t i o n o n p u r c h a s i n g m o t i v e s v a r i a b l e o f S I K Sidoarjo Regency embroidery product between housewives, career women, and adolescents segments. The purchasing motives differentiation between women s e g m e n t s s u c h a s b e l o w : f o r h o u s e w i v e s s e g m e n t , m o s t m o t i v e p r i o r i t y is c o l o r combination. For career women segment, most motive priority is price. For

a d o l e s c e n t s s e g m e n t , m o s t m o t i v e p r i o r i t y is d e s i g n . Until this time, there are many supporting ware for product developing, both hardware and software, such as AutoCAD, CAD/CAM, and many others p r o g r a m m i n g l a n g u a g e s . B u t , i t ’ s a l w a y s n e c e s s a r y n e w m e t h o d w h i c h is m o r e

efficient, then cost and time production can be reduced, without reduce product q u a l i t y . O n e o f p o p u l a r m e t h o d s is Q u a l i t y F u n c t i o n D e p l o y m e n t ( Q F D ) . O n e

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74 Embroidery Product C haracteristics Analysis Based on C ustom er Satisfaction,

o f p a r t s f r o m t h e Q F D m e t h o d i s S u b s t i t u t i o n s t e p ( I M a d e L o n d o n , B a t a n in journal published by UGM: 2004), it is a basic step in designing and developing

a product. From this step, then it is developed a substitution method. As an application from this devsloped method, an example about bicycle developing is given. Therefore, method and result from this research also can be used to

develop embroidery product in the future.

Customers Decision on Purchasing

Customers purchasing decision does not take suddenly, but it is taken by several purchasing steps. Ferrel et al. (1995:185) stated that: '"purchasing decision process which is taken by the customers includes problem knowing, information searching, alternative evaluation, and purchase and post purchase

evaluation. Problem knowing includes analysis about needs of certain product continue with information searching through certain sources. After product has

been found, consumers do alternative evaluation in order to compare product

b e f o r e it i s b o u g h t , t h e n d e c i d e t o p u r c h a s e a n d t h e l a s t i s e v a l u a t e p r o d u c t entirely. Knowledge is information which is saved on memory. According to Engel et al. (1994:317), “customers’ knowledge consist of 3 majors, they are product

knowledge. Usage knowledge includes available information about how product is used and what

a r e n e e d e d t o u s e it. C u s t o m e r s ' k n o w l e d g e i s p r e s e n t e d b y P e t e r e t a l . (1990:71) that are about “bundle of attribute, bundle of benefit, and value satisfaction”. In a matter of purchase product, customers will pay attention on product characteristics, which are consist of product attributes abstractly and

concretely. The next step is observed consequences or effects emerged by the product, which are consisting of consequences of product function itself and psychosocial

The'last is usage product evaluation.

consequences

of product

usage.

Customers as a Product Developing Inspiration Centre

Customers are inspiration centre on product developing, beside their v o i c e c a n b e u s e d a s p r o d u c t m a r k e t i n g w a y , it a l s o c a n b e u s e d a s a b a s e t o

d e v e l o p p r o d u c t i t s e l f . N e v e r t h e l e s s , g e n e r a l l y v o i c e o f c u s t o m e r s is q u a l i t a t i v e , whereas product designing and developing must be based on a value which can

be proven and measured (quantitative). Quality Function Deployment (QFD) method is developed to evaluate

c u s t o m e r s d e m a n d , a n d t h e n . i t is c h a n g e d i n t o a f o r m w h i c h h a s v a l u e a n d c a n

b e s e e n a l s o p r o v e n ( q u a n t i t a t i v e ) . Q F D w a s i n t r o d u c e d f o r t h e f i r s t t i m e in J a p a n o n a r o u n d e n d o f 1 9 6 0 . W h e n it w a s i n t r o d u c e d f o r t h e f i r s t t i m e , J a p a n experienced rapid development on automobile industry. QFD consist of four phases that are phase 1-product planning, phase 2-part deployment, phase 3- process planning, and phase 4-production planning. In fact, practice is explained by [Akao97], although QFD looks simple, real in practice is totally different.

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M a n y d e s i g n s a r e f i n i s h e d w i t h o u t t a k e c u s t o m e r s u n s u r e . P r o d u c t is d e v e l o p e d t h e n i n t r o d u c e d t o c u s t o m e r s ( u s e r s ) , a n d t h e y w i l l e v a l u a t e , i s it i n t e r e s t i n g , reasonable, or functional. If all that needs are fulfilled, then product is said appropriate with the customers want. On the other hand, QFD method is meant to know voice of customers and then evaluate it in order to be used as input for

f u r t h e r p r o d u c t d e v e l o p i n g . T h e r e f o r e , it a l w a y s e m e r g e p r o b l e m a b o u t w h a t customers who are can be expected to give input about product developing to

i n d u s t r y . I f t h e r e i s v o i c e o f c u s t o m e r s a n d t h e n h o w w e c a n t r a n s l a t e it i n t o product designing.

Substitution Method as a Product Developing Tool

As a part from QFD method step, substitution step is basic step of product designing and developing on designer perspective. It means that after customers want or demand is known, designer will try to translate voice of customers to be construction quality demand (a product technical specification).

S u b s t i t u t i o n m e t h o d w h i c h is d e v e l o p e d c o n s i s t s o f s i x s t e p s a n d c a n b e s e e n o n t a b l e 1.

T a b l e 1:

________________________Substitution Method Steps Step

Description

1 Voice of Customers Inventorying

2 Voice of Customers Evaluation

3 Translation of Voice of Customers into Product Quality

4 Establishment of Product Quality Demand

5 Optimizing The Product Quality Demand Technique

6 Design of Developed Product Component

In order to make systematically definition of substitution method easier, then flowchart diagram is made, like shown on picture 1 such as below:

The earliest step from this method is voice of customers inventorying. Voice

ways, for example by questionnaire, field survey or interview' both direct and indirect interview, etc. Questionnaire is designed properly so customers are not confused to answer and fill the answers. Step 2 is voice of customers evaluation. Evaluation can be done by measuring total of voice of customers towards product quality.

of customers

can

be known

by

various

The most, voice of customers must be noticed by designer as the same as further voice of customers, as can as possible should be fulfilled by designer. Step 3 is translation of voice of customers into construction quality. Generally, voice of customers is qualitative [Batan03]. Designer often face difficulty when t r a n s l a t e q u a l i t a t i v e v o i c e o f c u s t o m e r s i n t o q u a n t i t a t i v e o n e . It m e a n s t h a t

d e s i g n e r c a n n o t w o r k a l o n e b u t h e / s h e m u s t h a v e a t e a m w h i c h is c a l l e d p r o d u c t d e s i g n i n g a n d d e v e l o p i n g t e a m , in o r d e r t o d o b e n c h m a r k i n g . A s a result of team work, then construction quality demand of a product can be

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76 Embroidery Product C haracteristics Analysis Based on C ustom er Satisfaction,

e s t a b l i s h e d ( s t e p 4 ) . A s a f o l l o w u p , it w i l l b e d o n e o p t i m i z i n g t h e c o n s t r u c t i o n q u a l i t y d e m a n d t e c h n i q u e ( s t e p 5 ) . F o r t h i s p u r p o s e , it n ^ e d s a d o c u m e n t w h i c h contains technical specification of an available product or product which will be developed. Optimizing is product designing and developing centre [Batan03]. This step must be balanced with the product designing and developing team's w a n t i n f u l f i l l i n g v o i c e o f c u s t o m e r s e n t i r e l y . P e r f o r m a n c e o f n e x t p r o d u c t is very determined by this step. Output of this step is detail product technical specification. Based on that designing, component of product is designed (step 6). Component designing is very important, because on this step mechanical material characteristic, like strength, and tenacity is tested, do those variables fulfill the designing requirements.

As a part of designing purpose is product making. Component/product design can be evaluated, does design can be manufactured or design must be changed.

This step

product developing. By manufacture

e v a l u a t i n g , it c a n b e k n o w n d o t h e c o m p o n e n t c a n b e m a d e , a n d h o w m u c h c o s t of production.

Sidoarjo’s Em broidery Characteristic

R e s e a r c h e r o b s e r v a t i o n o n S i d o a r j o ’ s e m b r o i d e r y p r o d u c t s h o w s t h a t it h a s characteristics such as below:

a. D e s i g n , e m b r o i d e r y m o t i f d e s i g n w h i c h is o f t e n u s e d o n h o u s e h o l d l i n e n dress is flora motif on pattern flower and leaves from nature.

embroidery motif or embroidery ornament

b. Ornament setting,

pattern and corner ornament pattern. Side ornament pattern often used on cut of outskirt blouse, collar shirt, outside of tablecloth, underside.of blouse. On the other hand, corner ornament pattern often used on tablecloth, pillow' cloth, bed cover, and top of kebaya on front side.

c. T e x t i l e s , v a r i o u s t e x t i l e s a r e u s e d , f o r h o u s e h o l d it u s e c o t t o n , s a t i n , e t c . Cotton, chiffon, ero, and organdy are used for dress.

d. Color, bright color of thread contrast with color of textiles is often used.

e. Techniques of embroidery, technique of embroidery used are setik, setik loncat/full, kerancang.

Quality and beauty of embroidery can be determined by: ■a.- - Tools, it means that embroidery machine must be on well condition, smooth

o n u s a g e u n t i l it c a n p r o d u c e n i c e e m b r o i d e r y .

b. Professional human resources, there are two kinds of professional who are involved on embroidery processing, embroiders and embroidery designers.

c. P r o f e s s i o n a l p r o c e s s i n g t e c h n i q u e , it m e a n s t h a t r e s u l t w h i c h i s o b t a i n e d appropriate with embroider} setting and technique, composition of threads

is tight, orderly neat with motif design pattern, design motif of embroidery

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is actual, original, creative and innovative. In addition, design must be harmonic

of thread color and relatively fast and brief of time processing.

and dynamic,

Good embroidery standards according to Suharsono 92004:107) are:

a. Motif design appropriate with needs and accepted by all segments.

b. Compositions of embroidery thread color match with basic material and motif entirely.

c. Motif design appropriate

such as repetition, alternation, radiation.

d. Embroidery must be always actual, original, innovative and progressive with the fashion world.

RESEARCH METHODS

Method used is qualitative descriptive method which is quantified with Quality Function Deploymen^(QFD) method. It consists of four phases, they are

phase 2-part deployment, phase 3-process planning and phase 4-production planning.

phase 1-product

planning,

1. Targeted result produce new' discovery of embroidery model from the perspective

which is based on customers satisfaction. On this research, it is also developed production m a n a g e m e n t s y s t e m w h i c h c a n - b e a p p l i e d in S I K S i d o a r j o , w h i c h is processed with QFD method.

of embroidery

Engineering Faculty Unesa (embroidery expert and design developing), Mechanical Engineering

2. Other involved institution:

Tata Busana Program

Program Engineering Faculty (TTG expert), Industrial Technology Program ITS (industrial management system expert).

3. R e s u l t o f t h i s r e s e a r c h is e x p e c t e d t o b e m o d e l f o r d e v e l o p i n g e m b r o i d e r y small industry centre in East Java region, for example Bangil, Pasuruan and

G r e s i k b y g i v i n g t h e m H i b a h T a h a p II p r o g r a m a n d V u c e r M u l t i T a h u n program on next period.

Research Steps

1. Explorative Model Research

2. P r o c e d u r e , it is h e l d r e s e a r c h a b o u t p r o d u c t c h a r a c t e r i s t i c a n d i t s d e v e l o p i n g by

expert and embroidery technology developing.

using customers

3. Subject of Research

a. Customers

b. Embroidery Expert

c. TTG Expert

4. Data Collecting and Data Analysis Technique

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78 Embroidery Product C haracteristics Analysis Based on Custom er Satisfaction,

Method used is descriptive qualitative and quantitative method by using qualitative descriptive statistic with percentage analysis and QFD method (to determine industrial technology management system of embroidery product).

RESULT AND DISCUSSION

Description of Research Result T h i s e x p l o r a t i v e m o d e l r e s e a r c h is a i m e d t o e x p l o r e c u s t o m e r s w a n t o n needs fulfilling of embroidery textiles from perspectives of kind of embroidery, size

of embroidery,

technique, embroidery

c o m b i n a t i o n , a n d e m b r o i d e r y c o l o r . T h i s r e s e a r c h s t a r t e d a t M a y 2 nd, 2 0 0 7 a n d

e n d e d a t N o v e m b e r 1 0 th, 2 0 0 7 . T h i s r e s e a r c h i n v o l v e s s i x f i e l d w o r k e r s f r o m university students. Data collecting is held on four enterprises and embroidery showroom, such as:

Table 2 Locations of Research

Address CV Indah Bordir

Enterprises

Name of Entrepreneur

Jl. Yos Sudarso 7 Sidoarjo M. BA Bordir

Mrs. Naila Nadin

Mrs. Muhamad

Jl. Yos Sudarso 8 - 8A Sidoarjo

FJasta Indah

Jl. Raya Kludan 4-6 Bordir

Mrs. Hj. Husnah

Sidoarjo CV Mapan

Mrs. Hadiah

Jl. Raya Tanggulangin Sidoarjo

Source: Data of Research

Procedure, it i s h e l d r e s e a r c h a b o u t p r o d u c t c h a r a c t e r i s t i c a n d p r o d u c t developing by using responses from:

a. Customers, data of customers are collected by using research questionnaire method which is filled by customers after they do purchase. Customers who are selected to be respondent are the one who have ever, interested and u n d e r s t a n d a b o u t e m b r o i d e r y p r o d u c t . W i t h t h i s b a c k g r o u n d , it i s e x p e c t e d that customer as a respondent can evaluate the embroidery and as end-user

of embroidery.

embroidery expert and entrepreneur. Resulted model is discussed on peer group to translate result of research from the customers, then processed it by using QFD method and apply it be model with design and technique which is approached with customers expectation.

b. Expert, it has mean

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c. T T G e x p e r t , it c a n b e o b t a i n e d f r o m T T G e x p e r t a b o u t p o s s i b i l i t y o f T T G which will be applied to apply pattern obtained from result of peer group for further research.

d. E m b r o i d e r y t e c h n o l o g y d e v e l o p i n g e x p e r t , a p p l y c u s t o m e r s w a n t w h i c h is obtained in a form of responses by peer group from result of qualitative descriptive research which is continued with application on QFD model.

ANALYSIS OF RESEARCH RESULT

B a s e d o n t h e r e s e a r c h r e s u l t , it i s o b t a i n e d d a t a t h a t c o s t u m e r s f r o m 4 companies and embroidery store, those are Indah Bordir, MBA, Hasta Indah, and Mapan as follows:

1. Qualitative research

which are' embroidery

customer, they are still sporadic from customers' necessity identifications.

2. The next activity is arranging

House o f Quality (HQD) matrix to show all of

customer’ necessity in a form

Voice o f Customer (VOC) or is called PKC

Customer Quality Demanfl. Mapping activity of necessity in House of Quality can be seen in this picture below:

Picture 2: House of Quality Development

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80 E m broidery Product Characteristics Analysis Based on Customer Satisfaction ,

The stages in arranging House of Quality:

1. First Stage (Matrix I) Data processing of research result based on each group of PKC and then

a r r a n g i n g e a c h g r o u p b y r a n k a c c o r d i n g t o c u s t o m e r n e c e s s i t y . D a t a r a n k is shown in enclosure.

2. Second Stage Make a matrix table of relation importance comparison in each PKC.

M a t r i x t a b l e o f r e l a t i o n i m p o r t a n c e c o m p a r i s o n in e a c h P K C i s s h o w n in enclosure.

3. T h i r d S t a g e ( M a t r i x II a n d M a t r i x I V ) Arrange a Consideration of Construction Quality Performance (PKK) or embroidery design, in this stage a consideration is based on each PKC until it is expected that the target of PKC can be fulfilled as same as the true

, condition. Formation

not be fulfilled in a quantitative manner. It is because of there is something still depending on the taste of designer such as: flowers and

in

PKK table is still can

leaves arrangement, color combination of embroidery, combination of embroidery color and cloth, and

c o m p o s i t i o n s o f e m b r o i d e r y o r n a m e n t s a n d e t c . A l t h o u g h n o t a l l o f P K K is measured; however in this stage, designers can make sample of their p r o d u c t b a s e d o n t h e t r e n d o f P K C i n t h a t t i m e ( i t is t h e t a r g e t r e s e a r c h o f

first stage).

4. Fourth Stage (Matrix III) Arrange table matrix of the correlation forces relationship between each

PKC and PKK. This table is used for knowing and measuring the main priority, until we can tell which one needs attention for the production process later on (second stage research). Table of the relationship between

e a c h P K C a n d P K K is s h o w n i n e n c l o s u r e .

5. Fifth Stage (Matrix V) Arrange matrix of correlation relationship of each PKK and the way of optimizing treatment for each

be minimized, maximized, or optimized. This matrix is used for knowing the correlation relationship between each PKK and the way of quality and the quantity

t r e a t m e n t o f e a c h P K K . T h i s m a t r i x is v e r y u s e f u l o n s e c o n d y e a r r e s e a r c h where UKM produce a research product.

6. Sixth Stage (Matrix VI) This stage are doing market research and planning strategy. This stage can

be doing after we have done all stage before and have known the type of marketing in UKM before. For that reason, it is having not can be shown.

discussion result about embroidery specifications which will be design by designer above is going to

Based on result

of peer

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discussion again to see the resemblance and after the discussion we get data as follows:

a. Design, based on the peer group discussion result between entrepreneur and expert is decided that flower type which is customers favorite are jasmine, rose, cheery and frangipani. Geometric star and unformed shape is not

included in choice criteria because they have less interested customer.

b. Embroidery size, based on the peer group discussion result between entrepreneur and expert was found data that small size and medium size

a b o u t 1 - 3 c m is m o s t c o s t u m e r s f a v o r i t e .

c. Embroidery ornament setting, based on the peer group discussion result between entrepreneur and expert was found data that the most favorite

e m b r o i d e r y s e t t i n g a r e c o m b i n a t i o n , i n t h e c h e s t , u n d e r t h e b l o u s e , a n d in blouse cut.

d. Embroidery technique, based on the peer group discussion result between entrepreneur and expert was found data that favorite basic embroidery t e c h n i q u e is f u l l l o n c a t , ' ‘h o l e ’’ e m b r o i d e r y t e c h n i q u e is k e r a n c a n g . t h e m o s t

f a v o r i t e k e r a n c a n g t e c h n i q u e is j a l a - j a l a , a n d e m b r o i d e r y a p p l i c a t i o n w h i c h become favorite are 2 dimension and 3 dimension application. Wool, “ p e c a h k o p i ” , a n d c o m b i n e d i s n o t i n c l u d e in t h i s c r i t e r i a b e c a u s e t h e y h a v e less interested customer.

discussion result between researcher, entrepreneur, and expert was found data that color of cloth and t h r e a d w ' h i c h b e c o m e f a v o r i t e i f t h e r e is a h a r m o n y b e t w e e n t h e c o l o r o f

e. Combinations, based

cloth and thread. The ornament which becomes favorites is payet. Cloth without ornament must be noticed too.

f. Embroidery color, based on the peer group discussion result between researcher, entrepreneur, and expert was found data that favorite color are secondary color (orange, purple, green) and primary color (red, yellow,

blue), combination between complementary color and contrast. Color intensity must be considered. Embroidery elements use cotton, siphon, satin and silk.

g. Critics and Suggestion, there are some critics and suggestions based on customer opinion such as variation of embroidery (39 respondents), better quality (23 respondents), reasonable cost (14 respondents), and services (13 respondents). Critics about variation of embroidery and better quality are m o r e t h a n o t h e r c r i t i c s a b o v e b a s e d o n c u s t o m e r o p i n i o n . S e r v i c e s f a c t o r is must be noticed too. Another, factor which not include in this research can not become a parameter because they have less interested customers.

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82 Embroidery Product Characteristics Analysis Based on Customer Satisfaction, ANALYSIS OF PRODUCT DESIGN

Based on table 2, it can be analyzed according each group of PKC such as:

a. Group of Embroidery Pattern This group is consist of flower pattern, fruit pattern, and leaves pattern.

Both of these types are known well by embroidery designer until PKK t h o u g h t t h a t it w a s n o p r o b l e m f o r d e s i g n e r t o g e t t h e m o t i f . F l o r a l a n d

leaves arrangement is according to designer.

b. Group of Embroidery Size Research result shown that PKC have an intention for embroidery sizes are u n d e r 1 c m a n d a b o u t 1 - 3 c m s o i t w a s a u t o m a t i c a l l y b e c a m e P K K b u t in real condition is depending on operator skill and the machine. In this case, m o s t o f U K M u s e s e w i n g m a c h i n e J U K I t y p e s o t h e r e is n o o b s t a c l e t o make a pattern of embroidery with this size.

c. Group of Embroidery Ornament Setting ‘

Embroidery ornament setting which dominate PKC is combination setting. But on the other hand, one position still becomes a choice. Based on the

d a t a , c o m b i n a t i o n s e t t i n g i s s t r o n g e r t r e n d w h e r e a s c o m b i n a t i o n s e t t i n g is depend on designer appreciation.

d. Group of Embroidery Technique Some of embroidery technique is suitable with the pattern of embroidery

a n d t h e i r a r r a n g e m e n t u n t i l i n o n e e m b r o i d e r y a r r a n g e m e n t is n o t o n l y u s e o n e t y p e e m b r o i d e r y t e c h n i q u e . T h i s is i n t e r e s t i n g t o d e s i g n a n e m b r o i d e r y pattern and their arrangement. Embroidery design can have variation even

though using a same type, but embroidery technique can be different. So embroidery type and embroidery technique have strong relationship and trough this, embroidery designers can patent their design. This is a target from this research to make cooperation w ith embroiders designer to get patent rights.

To make embroidery using some embroidery technique above, UKM use sewing machine JUKI type because operator in UKM know how to use this m a c h i n e . E m b r o i d e r y U K M in S i d o a r j o h a v e n o t h a s a m a c h i n e w h i c h is automatically work supported by computer which support with embroidery design program software like in UNESA.

e. Group-of Embroidery ^Variation Two dimension of embroidery variation

is m o r e d o m i n a t e t h a n t h r e e dimension of embroidery variation. To fulfill this PKC, operator skill and embroidery machine JUKI type can overcome this.

f. Group of Addition Ornament O r n a m e n t a d d i t i o n h e r e m e a n s w h e t h e r t h e o r n a m e n t a d d i t i o n is g i v e n o r n o t i n e m b r o i d e r y . E m b r o i d e r y w i t h "‘p a y e t ’' a d d i t i o n d o m i n a t e P K C w a n t s .

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to fulfill this PKK consider about adding an ornament which is suitable with the motif and still depending on designer appreciation.

g. Group of Embroidery Color Whatever of thread color and combination that PKC wants is depending on

designer when they combined the color and still consider about material availability in market.

h. Group of Cloth Color T o f u l f i l l t h e c o l o r t h a t P K C w a n t s is s t i l l d e p e n d i n g o n d e s i g n e r a b i l i t y t o

combine the color. i.

Group of Embroidery Cloth Material Embroidery cloth material that suitable with PKC wants can be fulfilled by

m a t e r i a l a v a i l a b i l i t y in m a r k e t a n d a b o u t t h e m a t e r i a l c o s t i s m u s t b e considered too.

F r o m a l l o f P K K ’ s a n a l y s i s , U K M c a n f u l f i l l a l l P K K w a n t s a b o v e . It is because this research was done based on ability of embroidery UKM in Sidoarjo and its environs. Henceforth, from the same table we can make sample of

embroidery design from

“Welcome” software program,

like shown in picture 3 and 4. Another design can be seen in enclosure.

1. T h e n e x t s t e p is a p p l y i n g p e e r g r o u p d i s c u s s i o n r e s u l t i n e m b r o i d e r y p a t t e r n through

welcome program , t h i s p r o g r a m is u s e d f o r m a k i n g e m b r o i d e r y design based on certain specification. The steps are:

a. Input A, is used for drawing unordered pattern

b. Input B, is used for drawing ordered pattern

c. Input C, is used for making lines or side

d. Complex fill/values,

embroidery technique by customers

e. Lettering, is used for making letter shape in embroidery.

2. B a s i c e m b r o i d e r y p a t t e r n w h i c h is e x p e c t e d b y c u s t o m e r s p r i n t e d o n a p a p e r in e n c l o s u r e .

3. F u r t h e r m o r e , t h e d e s i g n is a p p l y i n g o n c o t t o n w h i c h b e c a m e a p r i o r i t y o f costumer want.

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Embroidery Product Characteristics Analysis Based on Customer Satisfaction,

From this research, we get pattern or model as follows:

Picture 3: sample design of jasmine embroidery using software welcome

Picture 4: sample

embroidery using software welcome

design

of frangipani

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CONCLUSION AND SUGGESTION

B a s e d o n d a t a c o l l e c t i n g , p r o c e s s i n g , a n d a n a l y z i n g , it c a n b e c o n c l u d e d and suggested:

Conclusion

1. Through field survey to get customer response and expectation about embroidery product in 4 (four) embroidery showroom in Sidoarjo, we get a PKC data in table 4. It is expected that this data can be used as a guideline to

customer want. Pattern of embroidery which

develop embroidery

become customers favorite such as: flower pattern (jasmine, rose, cherry, and frangipani), with size about 1-3 cm, in variation s e t t i n g , m a d e b y e s e s k / k e s e t t e c h n i q u e , a n d it i s m a d e v a r i a t i o n b e c o m e t w ro

d i m e n s i o n a n d t h e r e is a p a y e t a d d i n g , s e c o n d a r y c o l o r ( o r a n g e , p u r p l e , green) and cotton cloth become favorite.

2. Based on PKC data, suggestion from the embroidery expert through peer group for developing embroidery product is given by PKK consideration

a n d it i s s h o w n i n t a b l e 5 . x

3. The craftsman still can fulfill PKC demand. It was observed from the

c r a f t s m a n a b i l i t y in e m b r o i d e r y t e c h n o l o g y . It is b e c a u s e o f , b e f o r e d o i n g this survey, there was a meeting with the craftsman for talking about their

a b i l i t y i n e m b r o i d e r y t e c h n o l o g y . A l l o f c r a f t s m a n w h o b e c o m e o b j e c t in this research, when they design or process embroidery still using manual

process. It is not like UNESA'"who has automatically machine with computer support which is use embroidery software design.

4. The craftsman have ability to control all of production process to produce embroidery design from research, so research III (manufacturing design expert) only give a suggestion how the production process can work o p t i m a l l y f o r t h e l a t e r r e s e a r c h in s e c o n d y e a r .

Suggestion

1. Later research in second year is expected that customers have participation

i n d e c i d i n g q u a l i t y o f e m b r o i d e r y p r o d u c t b a s e d o n t h e i r c h a r a c t e r i s t i c . I t is

e x p e c t e d t h a t t h e c u s t o m e r s g i v e t h e i r t r u e s u g g e s t i o n , b e c a u s e it w o u l d influence the basic pattern which researcher produce.

2. The craftsman, researcher and expert need to synchronize PKC and PKK

f o r l a t e r r e s e a r c h in s e c o n d y e a r .

3. It is n e e d t o m a k e c o o p e r a t i o n w i t h UNESA especially in d e s i g n i n g

e m b r o i d e r y m o t i f b e c a u s e a l l o f e m b r o i d e r y c r a f t s m a n in S i d o a r j o s t i l l using manual process when they design and produce embroidery. With this

c o o p e r a t i o n is e x p e c t e d t o p r o d u c e m o r e v a r i a t i o n o f e m b r o i d e r y d e s i g n in o r d e r t o f u l f i l l c o s t u m e r s a t i s f a c t i o n . It i s a c c o r d i n g t o c r i t i c s a n d s u g g e s t i o n from customer who want more variation of embroidery design.

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86 Embroidery Product Characteristics Analysis Based on Customer Satisfaction, . . . .

4. The ability to use manual machine still can produce embroidery which have

a certain quality, but in next time the craftsman need to know better knowledge about technology of embroidery making.

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