Transpormasi gelombang di sepanjang pantai delta Sungan Jeneberang, Makassar (Wave transformation in the coast of delta Jeneberang River, Makassar)
danPerikanan
JurnalllmuKelautan
Nornor
1
Wol urne
22
April
2012
l- 13
StLdiperror^i#i,iiY;i{:"##y::!:;{,{";ir:"fr3;:',:
Karang
Arniati, AlexanderRantetonfukAlbor Tahir& JamaluddinJontpa
PenyakitPadaKanangBatu(StonyCora[) di PulauKodingarengLompoMakassar
SulawesiSelatan
t4-19
Mtthamrnd BandaSelamat,VincentiusP SiregarIndra Jaya & TotokHestirianoto
Temaik CitraSAelitQuickbirddar lkonosuntukPcngadaan
EvaluasiAkurasi
Karang
PetaHabitatTerumbr'r
20-28
SlamsuAlan Ali & JamaluddinJompa
Ntrliah Buhari,M. NatsirNessa',
IGp' Spermonde
Masyarakatdi
Berbcis
l-aut
PerforrnaDaerahPerlindungan
Kab. PangkePSul-Sel
29-35
Hidayat Pawitan& VincentiusP' Siregar
Sakka,Mulia Pu"ba, I Wayut Nur.icrya
Makassa
PantaiDeltaSungaiJeneberang,
di Sepanjarg
Celombang
Transpormasi
ShintaWerorilangi,A. Tattir,Atfian Noor,M.FaridSamawi& A.E' Estinawati
Penyaring
Distribusil.ogamBeratCd dar Cu PadaKolom Air danOrganisme
(Bivalvia) di PerairanKota Makassa
Makrlar'Apdl2012
3648
49-55
,
toftmi
lnma dacrahldakassuihtatmgS
tumtlllmu Kslnh danperikman
,
(JororrolofMe*re Msw
@rdFishdrq)
Jurnalllmu Kelautandan perikanan
Penerbit
KerjasamaFakultasilmu Kelautandan perikanan,universitas Hasanuddin
dengan
ISOI Komda SulawesiSelatan
Toroni (Jurnalllmu Kelautandan Perikanan) Vol. 20 (2) Agustus 2010: 36 - 48
TRANSPORMASI
DI SEPAITJANG PANTAI
GELOMBANG
JEI\EBERANG,
MAKASSAR
Wave Transformation
ISSN:0853-4489
DELTA
SUNGAT
in The Coast of Delta at Jeneberang River, Makassar
Satrkd, Mulia Purbd, t Woynn Nurjayd, Hidayat Pawitan3 dan Vincentius P. Sirega/
t'
Mahasiswa PascaSarjanq Departemen Itmu dan Teknologi Kelautan, Fakultas Perikanan dan
_ Ilmu Kelautan, Institut Pertanian Bogor. E-mail: sakka_psl@yahoo.com
2'Departemen
Ilmu dan Teknologi Kelautan, Fakultas Peri[anan dan llmu Kelautan, Institut
Pertanian
Bogor.
''^
Departemen Geofisika dan Meteorologi, Fakultas tv{IPA, lnstitut PertanianBogor.
Diterima: I I Desember2009; Disetujui: 10 April 2010
ABSTRACT
A study on w6ve transformation has been conducted in the coast of delta of Jeneberang
River, Makassar. The wave heights and periods at deep water oflshore of tke coast ore
predicted using wind data recorded at Potere Stasirm, Maksssar in 1990 - 2A08. Wave
transformatian as these deep water waves propagated toward the coast are onalized by
considereing the efect of shoaling and refraction to determine chonges of wave patterns (wave
directions and heights) and the breaking of the waves neqr the coast. Results show that offihore
woe heights and periods vary between 0.26 to 2.78 m and 3-A6 b 7.26 seconds,respecttvel)).
Higher wcmesheight ocburred generally in December to February (northwest Monsoon) than in
the June to August (southeast Monsoon). This study indicded tlnt when the wqves propagate
from deep water to the share, wave height decreased as the water depth shallower bu as the
depth continue decreases nerby the coast the wave height graduaUy increased tmtil it reaches
mmimum height then the wcues break. After wove breaking, wave height is reduced drastically
to zero at the shoreline. The results showed that waves tended to be converge at canvex-shoped
coastline (arotmd the river mouth), whereas at concave-shaped coastlines waves tended to be
divergentKeywords: deep water wave, refraction, shoaling, wave tronsformstionPENDAHTJLUAFI
Pengetahuantentang karakteristik gelombang yang dibangkitkan oleh angin merupakan
suatu kebufithan yang sangat pentng dalam Wrencanaan bangunan pantai, dimana data
gelombang dalam waktu yang panjang sangatdiperlukan (Shahidi et a1.2009). Namun demikian
pada beberapl tempat data gelombang hasil pengukuran di lapangan dalam waktu panjang
biasanya tidak tersedia sehingga perlu untuk melakukan prediksi gelombang dengan
menggunakan data angin.
Sampai saat ini telah dikembangkan beberapametode prediksi gelombang di laut lepas,
seperti metode SMB, Wilson, JONSWAP, Donelan dan CEM (Shahidi et a1.,2009). Metode
tersebut telah digunakan dan diuji ketelitiannya di berbagai tempat seperti metode SMB telah
digunakan di U.S. Army dan British standard, metode Wilson telah digunakan di pelabuhan
Jepang, Metode Donelan, SMB dan JONSWAP di gunakan dan dievaluasi di Ontario, metode
CEM juga telah digunakan dan dievaluasi di Ontario untuk kondisi fetch terbatas
(Kazeminezhad et al., 2005). Beberapa model dan empiris telah dikembangkan untuk
r)
Korespondensi:
Jurusan Fisika FMIPA Universitas Hasanuddin
Jl. Perintis Kemerdekaan Km. l0 TamalanreaMakassar 90245
E-mail: sakka psl@yahoo.com
36
5akka
Toroni()urnalllmu Kelautandan perikanan) Vol.20 (2) Agustus2010: 3G- 4g
ISSN:0853-4489
terhadap perubahan bentuk gelombang yang menjalar dari laut lepas menuju ke pantai di
batimetri yang tidak seragam menuqjukkan adanya perubahan tinggi gelombang dan
gelombang pada saat gelombang merambat dari laut lepas ke gaiis pantai. pantai
mempunyaikeleronganlandai mempunyaitinggi gelombangyang terjadi lebih besardari
pantaiyang curam.
DAF-TAR PUSTAKA
Abdallah AM, Sharaf El-Din SH, Shereet SM, 2006, Analysis wave observations and
transfonnations in Abu-eir Bay, EGypr , Egtptian J Aquat Res,32(l\:22-33.
Balas L, lnan A, 20A2, A numerical model of wave propagation on mild slopes, J caas Res36:l6el,
Boo{ N, fus RC, Fiolthuijsen LH, 1999, A third-generation wave model for coastal regions./
Res I 04(C4):7 649-7666.
Browne M et ai- 2007, Near-shore swell estimation from a global wind-wave model:
procesg tinear, and artificial neural network models, JCoas Eng 54:2145-460.
DepartemenPU, l989,.,Biti-Bili Muttipurpose Dam Project Detail€d Design for JeneberangRiv
Improvement Works, SupportingReport Studyon Hydrolory and RivJr HydraulicsVolumeII.
Horikawa K, 1988, Nearshore dynamics and coastal processes, Japan: University of Toicyo press.
Ikzrminedtad MIf, Shahidi AE, Mousavi Sl, 2A05, Application of funy
prediction of wave parameteru, J Ocean Eng 32:1709-1725.
inference system in
Kazeminezlrad MIt Shahidi AE, Mousavi SJ, 2007, Evaluation of neuro fuzJ and numerical
prediction models in lake ontario, J coas Res 50:317-321.
Maa JPY, wang DWC, lgg5, wave transformation near virginia coast The
northeaster,J coasRer I l(4):1258-1271.
Moeini
MH, Shahidi AE,2009, Wave parameter hindcasting in a lake using the SWAIr{ mode[
Civil Eng l6Q):156.164.
Shahidi AE, Kazeminezhad MlI, Mousavi SJ, 2009, On the prediction of wave parameters
simplified method, J Coas Eng 56:5A5-509.
Suriamihardja DA, 2005, Compromise management in the jenebereng delta and losari
Makassar, Department of Geography, Publication Series Number 6l Uiiversity of l{atertoo.
Thornton EB, Gtrza RT, 1983, Transformation
E8(Cl0):592s-5938.
of wave height distribution,
J Geophys
USACE (JS Army Corps of Engineen), 2003. Meteorologr and wave climate. Parr tI. I{ashington
Deportment of the Amty. US. Army Corp of Engineers.
Wyrtki K
48
1961, Physical oceanography of the southeast asian waters. Naga Report,
2:l-195.
JurnalllmuKelautan
Nornor
1
Wol urne
22
April
2012
l- 13
StLdiperror^i#i,iiY;i{:"##y::!:;{,{";ir:"fr3;:',:
Karang
Arniati, AlexanderRantetonfukAlbor Tahir& JamaluddinJontpa
PenyakitPadaKanangBatu(StonyCora[) di PulauKodingarengLompoMakassar
SulawesiSelatan
t4-19
Mtthamrnd BandaSelamat,VincentiusP SiregarIndra Jaya & TotokHestirianoto
Temaik CitraSAelitQuickbirddar lkonosuntukPcngadaan
EvaluasiAkurasi
Karang
PetaHabitatTerumbr'r
20-28
SlamsuAlan Ali & JamaluddinJompa
Ntrliah Buhari,M. NatsirNessa',
IGp' Spermonde
Masyarakatdi
Berbcis
l-aut
PerforrnaDaerahPerlindungan
Kab. PangkePSul-Sel
29-35
Hidayat Pawitan& VincentiusP' Siregar
Sakka,Mulia Pu"ba, I Wayut Nur.icrya
Makassa
PantaiDeltaSungaiJeneberang,
di Sepanjarg
Celombang
Transpormasi
ShintaWerorilangi,A. Tattir,Atfian Noor,M.FaridSamawi& A.E' Estinawati
Penyaring
Distribusil.ogamBeratCd dar Cu PadaKolom Air danOrganisme
(Bivalvia) di PerairanKota Makassa
Makrlar'Apdl2012
3648
49-55
,
toftmi
lnma dacrahldakassuihtatmgS
tumtlllmu Kslnh danperikman
,
(JororrolofMe*re Msw
@rdFishdrq)
Jurnalllmu Kelautandan perikanan
Penerbit
KerjasamaFakultasilmu Kelautandan perikanan,universitas Hasanuddin
dengan
ISOI Komda SulawesiSelatan
Toroni (Jurnalllmu Kelautandan Perikanan) Vol. 20 (2) Agustus 2010: 36 - 48
TRANSPORMASI
DI SEPAITJANG PANTAI
GELOMBANG
JEI\EBERANG,
MAKASSAR
Wave Transformation
ISSN:0853-4489
DELTA
SUNGAT
in The Coast of Delta at Jeneberang River, Makassar
Satrkd, Mulia Purbd, t Woynn Nurjayd, Hidayat Pawitan3 dan Vincentius P. Sirega/
t'
Mahasiswa PascaSarjanq Departemen Itmu dan Teknologi Kelautan, Fakultas Perikanan dan
_ Ilmu Kelautan, Institut Pertanian Bogor. E-mail: sakka_psl@yahoo.com
2'Departemen
Ilmu dan Teknologi Kelautan, Fakultas Peri[anan dan llmu Kelautan, Institut
Pertanian
Bogor.
''^
Departemen Geofisika dan Meteorologi, Fakultas tv{IPA, lnstitut PertanianBogor.
Diterima: I I Desember2009; Disetujui: 10 April 2010
ABSTRACT
A study on w6ve transformation has been conducted in the coast of delta of Jeneberang
River, Makassar. The wave heights and periods at deep water oflshore of tke coast ore
predicted using wind data recorded at Potere Stasirm, Maksssar in 1990 - 2A08. Wave
transformatian as these deep water waves propagated toward the coast are onalized by
considereing the efect of shoaling and refraction to determine chonges of wave patterns (wave
directions and heights) and the breaking of the waves neqr the coast. Results show that offihore
woe heights and periods vary between 0.26 to 2.78 m and 3-A6 b 7.26 seconds,respecttvel)).
Higher wcmesheight ocburred generally in December to February (northwest Monsoon) than in
the June to August (southeast Monsoon). This study indicded tlnt when the wqves propagate
from deep water to the share, wave height decreased as the water depth shallower bu as the
depth continue decreases nerby the coast the wave height graduaUy increased tmtil it reaches
mmimum height then the wcues break. After wove breaking, wave height is reduced drastically
to zero at the shoreline. The results showed that waves tended to be converge at canvex-shoped
coastline (arotmd the river mouth), whereas at concave-shaped coastlines waves tended to be
divergentKeywords: deep water wave, refraction, shoaling, wave tronsformstionPENDAHTJLUAFI
Pengetahuantentang karakteristik gelombang yang dibangkitkan oleh angin merupakan
suatu kebufithan yang sangat pentng dalam Wrencanaan bangunan pantai, dimana data
gelombang dalam waktu yang panjang sangatdiperlukan (Shahidi et a1.2009). Namun demikian
pada beberapl tempat data gelombang hasil pengukuran di lapangan dalam waktu panjang
biasanya tidak tersedia sehingga perlu untuk melakukan prediksi gelombang dengan
menggunakan data angin.
Sampai saat ini telah dikembangkan beberapametode prediksi gelombang di laut lepas,
seperti metode SMB, Wilson, JONSWAP, Donelan dan CEM (Shahidi et a1.,2009). Metode
tersebut telah digunakan dan diuji ketelitiannya di berbagai tempat seperti metode SMB telah
digunakan di U.S. Army dan British standard, metode Wilson telah digunakan di pelabuhan
Jepang, Metode Donelan, SMB dan JONSWAP di gunakan dan dievaluasi di Ontario, metode
CEM juga telah digunakan dan dievaluasi di Ontario untuk kondisi fetch terbatas
(Kazeminezhad et al., 2005). Beberapa model dan empiris telah dikembangkan untuk
r)
Korespondensi:
Jurusan Fisika FMIPA Universitas Hasanuddin
Jl. Perintis Kemerdekaan Km. l0 TamalanreaMakassar 90245
E-mail: sakka psl@yahoo.com
36
5akka
Toroni()urnalllmu Kelautandan perikanan) Vol.20 (2) Agustus2010: 3G- 4g
ISSN:0853-4489
terhadap perubahan bentuk gelombang yang menjalar dari laut lepas menuju ke pantai di
batimetri yang tidak seragam menuqjukkan adanya perubahan tinggi gelombang dan
gelombang pada saat gelombang merambat dari laut lepas ke gaiis pantai. pantai
mempunyaikeleronganlandai mempunyaitinggi gelombangyang terjadi lebih besardari
pantaiyang curam.
DAF-TAR PUSTAKA
Abdallah AM, Sharaf El-Din SH, Shereet SM, 2006, Analysis wave observations and
transfonnations in Abu-eir Bay, EGypr , Egtptian J Aquat Res,32(l\:22-33.
Balas L, lnan A, 20A2, A numerical model of wave propagation on mild slopes, J caas Res36:l6el,
Boo{ N, fus RC, Fiolthuijsen LH, 1999, A third-generation wave model for coastal regions./
Res I 04(C4):7 649-7666.
Browne M et ai- 2007, Near-shore swell estimation from a global wind-wave model:
procesg tinear, and artificial neural network models, JCoas Eng 54:2145-460.
DepartemenPU, l989,.,Biti-Bili Muttipurpose Dam Project Detail€d Design for JeneberangRiv
Improvement Works, SupportingReport Studyon Hydrolory and RivJr HydraulicsVolumeII.
Horikawa K, 1988, Nearshore dynamics and coastal processes, Japan: University of Toicyo press.
Ikzrminedtad MIf, Shahidi AE, Mousavi Sl, 2A05, Application of funy
prediction of wave parameteru, J Ocean Eng 32:1709-1725.
inference system in
Kazeminezlrad MIt Shahidi AE, Mousavi SJ, 2007, Evaluation of neuro fuzJ and numerical
prediction models in lake ontario, J coas Res 50:317-321.
Maa JPY, wang DWC, lgg5, wave transformation near virginia coast The
northeaster,J coasRer I l(4):1258-1271.
Moeini
MH, Shahidi AE,2009, Wave parameter hindcasting in a lake using the SWAIr{ mode[
Civil Eng l6Q):156.164.
Shahidi AE, Kazeminezhad MlI, Mousavi SJ, 2009, On the prediction of wave parameters
simplified method, J Coas Eng 56:5A5-509.
Suriamihardja DA, 2005, Compromise management in the jenebereng delta and losari
Makassar, Department of Geography, Publication Series Number 6l Uiiversity of l{atertoo.
Thornton EB, Gtrza RT, 1983, Transformation
E8(Cl0):592s-5938.
of wave height distribution,
J Geophys
USACE (JS Army Corps of Engineen), 2003. Meteorologr and wave climate. Parr tI. I{ashington
Deportment of the Amty. US. Army Corp of Engineers.
Wyrtki K
48
1961, Physical oceanography of the southeast asian waters. Naga Report,
2:l-195.