A Semiotic Analysis : Signs of Masculinity on 'Grazia Men' Magazine Cover.

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ABSTRACT

Saya menyusun skripsi berjudul A Semiotic Analysis: Signs of Masculinity on GRAZIA Men Magazine Cover ini dengan memfokuskan pada muatan tanda-tanda maskulinitas dalam elemen-elemen visual dan tekstual yang terdapat pada halaman muka majalah GRAZIA Men yang diterbitkan di Australia pada Desember 2012. Edisi yang diambil sebagai sumber data merupakan edisi khusus pria pertama sekaligus terakhir dari majalah GRAZIA, yang semula memosisikan diri sebagai majalah gaya hidup khusus wanita.

Tujuan dari penyusunan skripsi ini adalah untuk mengurai penanda-penanda visual dan tekstual melalui proses signifikasi sesuai teori Semiotika yang dikemukakan oleh Saussure. Konsep-konsep yang terkandung pada penanda-penanda tersebut pada akhirnya dianalisis dan dicari keterkaitannya dengan konsep maskulinitas yang berlaku di masyarakat.

Hasil analisis Semiotika yang diterapkan dalam skripsi ini menunjukkan bahwa delapan puluh lima persen dari penanda yang dibahas memiliki keterkaitan dengan konsep maskulinitas dengan cara pengungkapan yang berbeda-beda. Tanda-tanda maskulinitas ini membantu membiaskan citra feminin yang melekat pada nama GRAZIA, serta menguatkan citra majalah GRAZIA Men sebagai majalah gaya hidup yang benar-benar dikhususkan untuk pria.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ...i

TABLE OF CONTENTS ... iii

ABSTRACT ... v

CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION ... 1

1.1. Background of the Study ... 1

1.2. Statement of the Problem ... 4

1.3. Purpose of the Study ... 4

1.4. Method of Research ... 4

1.5. Organisation of the Thesis ... 5

CHAPTER TWO: THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK ... 6

2.1. Saussurean Model... 7

2.2. Masculinity ... 10

CHAPTER THREE: A SEMIOTIC ANALYSIS OF SIGNS OF MASCULINITY ON GRAZIA MEN MAGAZINE COVER ... 13

3.1. Visual Signifiers ... 13

A. Pictorial Aspects ... 14

A.1. The Model ... 14

A.2. The Blue-coloured Hair. ... 16

A.3. The Face and Facial Hair ... 18

A.4. The Body ... 20

A.5. The Black Short-sleeved V-neck T-shirt ... 21

A.6. The Sleeveless Denim Jacket ... 23

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A.8. The Tattoos ... 26

A.9. The Golden Wrist Watch ... 27

B. Background Colours ... 29

C. Typography ... 30

C.1. Serif ... 3

C.2. Sans Serif ... 3

C.3. Script ... 3

3.2. Textual Signifiers ... 33

A. HINT HINT! THE ULTIMATE GUY GIFT GUIDE ... 34

B. GRAZIA Men ... 36

C. SPECIAL ISSUE ... 37

D. grazia.com.au ... 38

E. Win A BIG BAG OF AWESOME STUFF... ... 38

F. Starring RYAN GOSLING, ROB PATTINSON, RICKY MARTIN ...AND ANGUS STONE’S BEARD ... 40

G. EXCLUSIVE ... 43

H. Judge Joel ‘WHY I DITCH MY STYLIST’ ... 44

I. WHERE’S YOU HAIR AT? WE CHALLENGE YOU TO CHOP ... 45

CHAPTER FOUR: CONCLUSION ... 48

BIBLIOGRAPHY ... 53

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APPENDIX

The cover of GRAZIA Men magazine Australia volume 1, published by Bauer Media on 30 November 2012

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CHAPTER ONE

INTRODUCTION

1.1 Background of the Study

Representation of gender can be sensed almost everywhere, as stated by David Gauntlett, a professor of Media and Audiences at Bournemouth Media School, Bournemouth University, in his book Media, Gender and Identity,

“magazines, newspapers and adverts all contain images of women and men, and even songs on the radio (or played in shops and cafes) might feed into, or challenge, our ideas about gender” (Gauntlett 36). I personally agree with his statement, as I also have sensed the concept of gender, be it masculinity or femininity, in almost all kinds of media. This fact has led me to finally decide to discuss gender in my thesis. I will limit my focus only to the concept of masculinity, because as a man, I feel more related to the issue. The title of my thesis is A Semiotic Analysis: Signs of Masculinity on GRAZIA Men Magazine Cover.

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According to an Australian sociologist and expert of masculinity Raewyn Connell in her Masculinities, “masculinity is what men ought to be” (Connell 70). This definition presupposes the idea of men that are somehow expected to be possessing some traits that are considered masculine. Dr. Will Courtenay, a professor of Sonoma State University, USA, states in his scholarly article entitled

Constructions of Masculinity and Their Influence on Men’s Well-Being: A Theory of Gender and Health, that “gender is constructed from cultural and subjective meanings that constantly shift and vary, depending on the time and place” (Kimmel, 1995 quoted by Courtenay 1387). On that account, I understand that both masculinity and femininity are subjects of construction defined by their surroundings.

In her book that I have previously mentioned, Connell has also stated that “Semiotic approaches abandon the level of personality and define masculinity through a system of symbolic difference in which masculine and feminine places are contrasted. Masculinity is, in effect, defined as not-femininity” (70). In the above statement, it is implied that any signs that are not considered feminine are to be taken as signs of masculinity.

Being aware that signs can reveal masculinity, I decide to use a semiotic approach as the theoretical framework of this thesis to analyse the signifiers appearing in the data that reveal the concept of masculinity. According to Sebeok in his glossary in Signs: An Introduction to Semiotics, signifier is the form of a sign that is used to refer to the referent, that is called signified (156), while

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Saussure states that the former is a sound pattern and the latter is a concept (Chandler 14).

In this thesis, I decide to discuss the signs of masculinity in GRAZIA Men magazine cover. I chose a magazine cover as the source of my data as I agree with Gauntlett’s opinion that “the magazines are indeed a ‘significant site’ for discourses of masculinity, which are reflected, reproduced and perhaps manipulated on their pages” (117).

I decide to analyse how the magazines has put the elements of masculinity onto the cover of its first edition in order to distinguish the male version of the magazine from the female version.

The brand name GRAZIA claims itself as “Italy’s fashion bible and one of the most prestigious European fashion magazines” (Grazia International). It has been previously famous only as a female lifestyle magazine and has now been published in 22 countries including Indonesia. The publisher of GRAZIA later on decides to publish the male version of the magazine under the name “GRAZIA Men” (ibid.). The official Web of GRAZIA International states that “Grazia Men presents Grazia’s easy-chic menswear fashions with interviews and info about celebrities presenting Grazia’s menswear style” (Grazia Men).

Hopefully, after reading my thesis, students, especially those of the English Department who choose a similar topic for their thesis, will gain more understanding about how to conduct a semiotic analysis of a magazine cover. I also hope that they will get some information about the elements of masculinity that, in this case, are shown in the cover of the first edition of GRAZIA Men

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magazine that was published in Australia, as well as being aware of how GRAZIA Men magazine has tried to show the image of masculinity through some signifiers on the cover that differentiates the magazine from the original female version of GRAZIA.

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1.2 Statement of the Problem

The problems in this study are formulated as follows:

1. What are the visual and textual signifiers and signifieds of the data? 2. How do the signifiers of the data reveal the concept of masculinity?

1.3 Purpose of the Study

Following the statement of the problem, the purposes of the study are: 1. to find out the visual and textual signifiers and signifieds of the data.

2. to figure out how the signifiers of the data reveal the concept of masculinity.

1.4 Method of Research

In conducting the research, I read some books about Semiotic theories and about masculinity theories. I also searched through the Internet for a GRAZIA Men magazine cover to be taken as the source of my data. I also searched some academic journals and theories that supported the research. Then I analysed the data and at the end I drew the conclusion of the research.

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1.5 Organisation of the Thesis

The first chapter is the introduction consisting of Background of the Study, Statement of the Problem, Purpose of the Study, Method of Research and Organisation of the Thesis. Chapter Two is Theoretical Framework, providing the theories I use in analysing the data. Chapter Three contains the data analysis. Chapter Four is the conclusion. It is followed by Bibliography and Appendix.

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CHAPTER FOUR

CONCLUSION

In this chapter, I will provide a conclusion of the study which is based on the findings and discussions in the previous chapter. I will also present my personal opinion about the topic of the study, as well as some suggestions for general readers and other researchers who might also be interested in conducting further research related to Semiotics, media, and masculinity.

The purposes of the study are to analyse and find out the visual and textual signifiers that appear on the cover of the magazine together with the signifieds and to figure out how the signifiers may reveal the concept of masculinity. After conducting the study, I find that there are eleven signifiers that appear through the visual aspects of the magazine and nine signifiers that appear in the form of texts. Relying on the analysis that has been conducted, I can see that each signifier stands for a mental concept that is different from those that are conveyed by the other signifiers, but in the end most of the mental concepts can be related to

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one idea: masculinity—be it from the general point of view or from the western culture point of view.

Moreover, after analysing the data, I understand that the signifiers can reveal the concept of masculinity through many ways. Some of them conform to the concept of masculinity directly. For example, the colour blue, the word

competition, the wrist watch, and the tattoos are directly associated to the concept of masculinity. Another example is the names of male celebrities that are featured on the cover of the magazine, which have been considered as the icons of masculinity by society. Therefore when we read their names, there is a strong probability that we would associate the names with the concept of masculinity.

Meanwhile, some others have to be related to other concepts first before they can finally be associated to the concept of masculinity. For example, on the cover of the magazine, we can find a signifier in the form of an emblem on the denim jacket worn by Joel Madden, which shows the flag of the United States. To analyse this signifier, I should first relate it to the concept of nationalism and then relate it to the concept of masculinity, as nationalism has often been seen as a masculine thing.

I also find that the concept of masculinity can be analysed not only by looking at the contents of the texts featured on the media, but also at the shapes of the typography that are used by the media. From the discussion, I find that although the text says “men”, which can definitely be considered the root of the concept of masculinity, it is possible that the shape of the word does not conform to the concept of masculinity.

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Furthermore, one of the textual signifiers mentions the name of a Puerto Rican male celebrity, Ricky Martin, who is actually known worldwide as a gay but still considered as an icon of masculinity. This finding has led me to the conclusion that homosexuality is one thing, while masculinity is another thing. From this study, I understand that a man can be a homosexual yet still is considered masculine. This means that masculinity has got nothing to do with a person’s sexual orientation. This tells us that men ought not to be straight in order to be considered masculine.

In conclusion, GRAZIA Men magazine Australia has featured many elements of masculinity in its first edition that help distinguish the male version from the female one. Out of twenty signifiers found on the cover and discussed in the previous chapter, only three signifiers do not conform to the concept of masculinity found. Seventeen signifiers have proved that the concepts of masculinity are carried by the magazine through its visual aspect, which can be seen from the colour selections, gestures of the model, body and facial attributes, and font selections; and its textual aspect, which involves the choices of diction and name to be featured on the cover.

The concepts of masculinity appearing on the cover show the idea that a male is perceived as a leading, competitive, easily-challenged and powerful gender who is craving for success, struggling against anxiety and cluelessness, and associating himself with several physical attributes to show his masculine identity, for example, through facial hair and tattoos.

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In my personal view, gender is one of many things that are interesting to study, because it is simply everywhere to see and it is related to our life. Studying masculinity helps me understand that the construction of gender identity can be found even in a small thing like the typography, where the shapes of the edges of a written letter can define whether the character of the font is considered masculine or feminine.

I also find that gender plays an essential role in building some images of magazines; the other way around, magazines also have a great influence upon the construction of the stereotypes of gender.

It is quite ironic that due to the falling of the magazine sales, Bauer Media has discontinued both the female and male versions of GRAZIA magazine Australia early in 2013, thus making the first edition of the GRAZIA Men its only edition ever published. It would have been more interesting if the signs of masculinity on the cover of this edition could be compared to those of other editions.

Regarding that matter, I suggest that researchers who want to discuss a similar topic choose one magazine that has several editions as primary sources of the data so that the covers of the editions can be compared to each other to give a richer and more interesting results and findings.

There are so many things that can be related to the concept of a particular gender identity—be it masculinity or femininity. The stereotypes will always be constructed by society from time to time. It is suggested that we seek some more

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reading sources in order to be more aware of the signs of the gender identity that appear in our surroundings.

I also suggest that Maranatha Christian University, especially the English Department, provides the students with more recent and updated resources and literary works that discuss the Semiotics, gender and media issue as well as their interrelation. The aim is to help students solidify their knowledge about the connection between the science of signs, gender and the media.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY

Source of Data

Publishers Australia. Cover_Mens-issue.jpg. Digital image. Grazia Diversifies with A Men's Edition. Publishers Australia, 3 Dec. 2012. Web. 10 Mar. 2013.

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