A SEMIOTIC ANALYSIS OF FASHION DOMINATION THROUGH SIGNS IN MUSIC VIDEOS.

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A Semiotic Analysis of Fashion Domination through Signs

in Music Videos

A Research Paper

Submitted to the English Education Department of the Faculty of Languages and Arts Education of the Indonesian University of Education as a Partial Fulfillment

of the Requirements for Sarjana Sastra Degree

By:

ERIKA KHAIRUNNISA

0808519

ENGLISH EDUCATION DEPARTMENT

FACULTY OF LANGUAGE AND ARTS EDUCATION

INDONESIAN UNIVERSITY OF EDUCATION

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A Semiotic Analysis of Fashion

Domination through Signs in Music

Videos

Oleh Erika Khairunnisa

Sebuah skripsi yang diajukan untuk memenuhi salah satu syarat memperoleh gelar Sarjana pada Fakultas Pendidikan Bahasa dan Seni

Desember 2013

Hak Cipta dilindungi undang-undang.

Skripsi ini tidak boleh diperbanyak seluruhya atau sebagian, dengan dicetak ulang, difoto kopi, atau cara lainnya tanpa ijin dari penulis.

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PAGE OF APPROVAL

A Semiotic Analysis of Fashion Domination through Signs in Music Videos

A Research Paper By

Erika Khairunnisa 0808519

Approved by

First Supervisor

Dr. DidiSukyadi, M. A. NIP. 196706091994031003

Second Supervisor

RuswanDallyono, S. Sos., M. Pd. NIP. 197008032005011002

Head of Department of English Education Faculty of Languages and Arts Education

Indonesian University of Education

Prof. Dr. DidiSuherdi, M. Ed. NIP. 196211011987121000

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ABSTRACT

This paper entitled “A Semiotic Analysis of Fashion Domination through Signs in Music Videos” aims to investigate domination issues in the form of fashion by examining denotative, connotative, and mythical meanings of selected scenes in three music videos. The three music videos are Ailee’s “I Will Show You”, Taylor Swift’s “You Belong with Me”, and Super Junior M’s “Super Girl”. The orders of signification were used as the semiotic tools to analyze the data. The results show that a change of appearance emerges in the music videos as a form of domination to maintain the dominant ideology.

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ABSTRAK

Penelitian ini yang berjudul “A Semiotic Analysis of Fashion Domination through Signs in Music Videos” bertujuan untuk menginvestigasi isu-isu dominasi dalam bentuk fesyen dengan menelaah makna-makna denotasi, konotasi, dan mitos dari adegan-adegan pilihan dalam tiga video musik. Tiga video musik itu adalah Ailee “I Will Show You”, Taylor Swift “You Belong with Me”, dan Super Junior M “Super Girl”. Orders of signification digunakan sebagai alat semiotik untuk menganalisa data tersebut. Hasilnya menunjukkan bahwa perubahan penampilan di dalam video-video musik itu muncul sebagai sebuah bentuk dominasi untuk mempertahankan ideologi dominan.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Statement of Authorization……… i

Preface………..…….…………... ii

Acknowledgement………..……… iii

Abstract………..………... iv

Table of Contents……….……….. v

List of Tables………..………viii

List of Figures……….. ix

Chapter I: Introduction………... 1

1.1 Background……… 1

1.2 Research Questions……… 4

1.3 Research Purposes……….. 4

1.4 Scope of the Study………. 4

1.5 Significance of the Study……… 4

1.6 Research Method……… 5

1.7 Organization of the Paper………... 5

1.8 Clarification of the Terms……….. 6

Chapter II: Literature Review……….. 7

2.1 Semiotics……… 7

2.1.1 Signs………. 7

2.1.2 Denotation and Connotation……… 8

2.1.3 Myth………. 9

2.2 Fashion……….. 10

2.2.1 Fashion and Identity……… 13

2.2.2 Fashion and Culture………. 13

2.2.3 Fashion and Ideology……….. 14

2.2.4 Fashion and Social Status……… 15

2.2.5 Civility and Exhibitionism………... 15

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2.3 Visual Elements of Music Videos….……… 17

2.4 Previous Studies……… 18

Chapter III: Research Methodology………..24

3.1 Research Method……….. 24

3.2 Data Collection………. 25

3.3 Research Procedure………27

3.4 Research Analysis Example……….. 27

Chapter IV: Findings and Discussion………. 30

4.1 Fashion Domination in the Korean Music Video……… 30

4.1.1 Denotative, Connotative, and Mythical Meanings Analysis of the Selected Scenes……… 31

4.1.2 Binary Opposition of the First and the Second Fashion Style.. 38

4.2 Fashion Domination in the American Music Video………. 41

4.2.1 Denotative, Connotative, Mythical Meanings Analysis of the Selected Scenes……… 43

4.2.2 Binary Opposition of the Protagonist’s and the Antagonist’s Fashion Style……… 49

4.3 Fashion Domination in the Chinese Music Video………... 53

4.3.1 Denotative, Connotative, Mythical Meanings Analysis of the Selected Scenes……… 54

4.3.2 Binary Opposition of the First and the Second Fashion Style.. 57

4.4 Discussion……….. 59

4.4.1 Denotative and Connotative Meanings of the Signs in the Korean Music Video………. 59

4.4.2 Denotative and Connotative Meanings of the Signs in the American Music Video………. 61

4.4.3 Denotative and Connotative Meanings of the Signs in the Chinese Music Video……… 63

4.4.4 The Myths………. 64

Chapter V: Conclusions and Suggestions……….. 68

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5.2 Suggestions……… 69

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LIST OF TABLES

Table 2.1 ……….. 16

Table 2.2 ……….. 16

Table 2.3 ……….. 17

Table 3.1 ……….. 28

Table 4.1 ……….. 32

Table 4.2 ……….. 38

Table 4.3 ……….. 39

Table 4.4 ……….. 43

Table 4.5 ……….. 50

Table 4.6 ……….. 51

Table 4.7 ……….. 54

Table 4.8 ……….. 58

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LIST OF FIGURES

Figure 2.1 ……… 9

Figure 2.2………. 11

Figure 2.3………. 11

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CHAPTER I

INTRODUCTION

This chapter introduces briefly the basic information about this research. Reasons of conducting the research, problems and purposes of the study, methods of analysis, and other details will be elaborated.

1.1 Background

The music video is one of the most favored forms of entertainment in the world today. The fast growth of people‟s interest in music videos has started since the website YouTube was launched in 2005. YouTube is a website where people can share their videos. Through YouTube, music videos from around the world can be shared globally. Worldwide people can view music videos easily by opening the website. There are also other similar websites that enable them to upload videos, even though not as popular as YouTube, such as Dailymotion, Metacafe, and Vimeo. The ease of Internet browsing and advanced technology these days make those websites, especially YouTube, effortlessly accessible.

It is already stated before that people can view music videos from around the world easily. Consequently, it is not impossible that massive things can happen or change people‟s lives through the Internet because many people are involved. It is already known that Justin Bieber, a global superstar, was discovered by his manager through YouTube where Bieber‟s videos were uploaded. Another example is the internationally known “Gangnam Style” that has spread worldwide after it was posted on the Internet. Now, it seems that almost everyone in the world knows “Gangnam Style”. In Indonesia, Sinta and Jojo were well-known in a short time because their video “Keong

Racun” was viewed by many people in YouTube. There are also Gamaliel and Audrey who became famous because their video shows their talent in music. These cases show how music videos may have a profound effect on people‟s

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lives. Perhaps it is merely an entertainment, but certainly it is not insignificant.

A music video can show various kinds of issues from around the world. As a kind of entertainment which is abundant and easily accessed, it is unavoidably a part of people‟s daily lives. Music videos can carry issues and ideologies in society which can be constructed consciously or unconsciously. In the previous research by Mezey and Niles (2005), it is shown that film and television have major roles in creating public assumptions on law. Knowledge about law for many common people is obtained mostly from those two forms of entertainment: television and film. Therefore, the ideologies of film and television may affect how people think of law. These depictions that film and television make about law can influence society to some extent. As another form of entertainment, music videos also have the same ability as film and television in portraying image and delivering ideologies.

There is another previous study by Click and Kramer (2007) which analyzes images of women and men in two mainstream popular songs by content analysis. Mainstream popular songs are the songs that are liked by the majority of people. Content analysis is a type of analysis which consists of description and interpretation (Hancock, 2000). It shows ideologies in the two songs portray men and women differently. The images of women and men in the lyrics and music videos of the two mainstream popular songs depict different identities and characteristics of two gender roles. It demonstrates that lyrics and music videos of songs can depict identities in society. Therefore, in this present research, the depictions of identities in music videos were analyzed by using a semiotic analysis.

Furthermore, this research focuses on identities based on fashion. Fashion as non-verbal communication conveys identity and also constructs it at the same time (Barnard, 2011). The previous research by Svensson (1991) emphasizes the role of clothing as means of communication of identity. It shows that clothing can also be powerful to defend the sovereignty of ethnic culture groups. It exhibits the ability of clothing beyond its usual function as a

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form of communication. Therefore, in this present research, fashion was examined as an indicator of identities in society.

It is already established that fashion is closely related to capitalism, where the system of society is based on profit. In a thesis by Karacan (2007), it is elaborated how fashion in capitalism makes women objects of consumer culture. Women are oppressed by a patriarchal system that demands them to pursue the beauty myth that has been standardized. In this case, fashion is already a system of oppression against women. It shows that fashion has a profound effect on social lives.

Related to the previous studies, this present research attempts to analyze domination in fashion against another fashion which identifies certain identities that belong to particular members of a community. Therefore, in this research, three music videos taken for analysis were selected because these videos depict a comparison between two different fashion styles where one is oppressed, while the other one dominates. These three music videos are

Taylor Swift‟s “You Belong with Me” (Western), Super Junior M‟s “Super Girl” (Chinese), and Ailee‟s “I Will Show You” (Korean). The preference of clothing as shown in the music videos seems natural and agreeable by society. However, there is nothing that is truly natural because every culture and society has its own ideology. This is what Barthes called as a myth: a complicated system of communication to serve the dominant ideologies and to make culture seems natural (in Sukyadi, 2011).

A myth, as described by Barthes (1977, in Chandler 2002), naturalizes the dominant ideologies and culture to make it seem common, standard, normal, just the way it is, “Borgeois ideology…turns culture into nature” (Barthes, 1974: 206, cited in Chandler, 2002: 145). Therefore, ideology is hidden because it seems natural and real. It is accepted by society‟s convention. Everyone seems to see it as a „reality‟ and just accept it without reason or argumentation. That is why ideology in music videos can be seen as natural and many people see it as „reality‟ not ideology.

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Ideologies in music videos are hidden because they are mystified and they need demystification to be deciphered. One way to demystify them is by analyzing the meaning based on Barthes‟ orders of signification. A myth is described as the third order of signification (not by Barthes himself) (Chandler, 2002), where the first and the second are denotation and connotation. Denotation is the first order of signification which consists of signifier and signified, while connotation is the second order of signification where its signifier is the sign (signifier and signified) of the denotation. Barthes argues that denotation and connotation unite together to create ideology (.ibid). Thus, the denotation and connotation can lead the analysis to the quest of myth.

1.2 Research Questions

In line with the purpose, the study attempts to address the problems below: 1. What are the denotative and connotative meanings of signs in selected

scenes of the music videos that show a fashion domination issue?

2. What are the mythical meanings of signs in selected scenes of the music videos that show a fashion domination issue?

1.3 Research Purposes

Relevant to the background of the study above, the research aims to:

1. To analyze the denotative and connotative meanings of signs in selected scenes of the music videos that show a fashion domination issue.

2. To decipher the mythical meanings of signs in selected scenes of the music videos that show a fashion domination issue.

1.4 Scope of the Study

The research focuses on Barthes‟ orders of signification theory to reveal ideologies in music videos that contain fashion domination issues. The music videos taken for analysis were selected regarding the issues and particular scenes were chosen to be analyzed. The scenes that focus on the issues were chosen as the data of analysis.

1.5 Significance of the Study

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1.5.1 Theoretical

The research may contribute to increase the knowledge of signification in music videos. Videos may contain issues that cover meaning beyond what is seen. Therefore, this research hopefully can enhance semiotics literature, especially about meaning in music videos.

1.5.2 Practical

Hopefully, this research can contribute to trigger future research about meaning in music videos. Not only videos, but also other forms of signs, such as photograph and logo may be elaborated in future research. 1.5.3 Professional

The research might reveal how various signs can construct meaning or ideologies in a video. Therefore, perhaps people who work in this field can take the benefits and be more thoughtful in making videos.

1.6 Research Method

This research uses qualitative and descriptive approaches because it deals with description and explanation of the signs in the music videos. It also uses a semiotic analysis by analyzing the images of the selected scenes in the music videos. The meaning and interpretation of the scenes can be acquired

by using Barthes‟ orders of signification as a semiotic tool. The tool consists of three levels of analysis: denotative, connotative, and mythical meanings. 1.7 Organization of the Paper

The paper‟s structure consists of introduction, literature review, methodology, findings and discussion, and conclusion and suggestion. The details of each chapter will be presented below.

1.7.1 Chapter I: Introduction

Introduction contains background, purpose of the study, research questions, scope of the study, significance of the study, research method, organization of the paper, and clarification of key terms. 1.7.2 Chapter II: Literature Review

There are four sections in this part. The first is the general review of related literature. The second is the topic elaboration in the research.

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The third is the previous research that influences or connects with the analysis. The last is the research contribution to fill the gap in the study. 1.7.3 Chapter III: Methodology

This chapter elaborates the research design, data collection, data analyzing methods, and the details.

1.7.4 Chapter IV: Findings and Discussion

The results of the research will be explored and discussed thoroughly in this chapter.

1.7.5 Chapter V: Conclusions and Suggestions

This is the conclusion of the paper which includes the restatement of research problems and the results and also the suggestion for future research.

1.8 Clarification of the Terms

There are several main terms in the research which are presented below. 1. Fashion is a word that originally comes from Latin factio which means

“make, do”. At the present time, fashion means “way, manner”, “particular shape or style”, and “prevailing or current manner” (Ayto, 1990: 220).

2. Signs are everything that represents the other thing (Chandler, 2002: 2). 3. Semiotics is “the study of signs” (Chandler, 2002: 1).

4. Denotation is the “literal” or “obvious” meaning (Chandler, 2002: 140). It is the first order of signification.

5. Connotation is the meaning that is influenced by “the socio-cultural and

„personal‟ associations” (Chandler, 2002: 140). It is the second order of signification.

6. Myth is the naturalization of the dominant ideology (Chandler, 2002). It is the third order of signification.

7. Domination is “supremacy or preeminence over another” or “exercise of mastery or ruling power” (Merriam-Webster, 1995: 344).

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CHAPTER III

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

This chapter discusses the methodology used in the research. It consists of research method, data collection, research procedure, and research analysis example.

3.1 Research Method

The study used qualitative and descriptive approaches to describe and interpret the data to investigate the domination issue through the code of fashion. A qualitative approach is suitable for this research because it “…aims to help us

to understand the world…concerned with the social aspects of our world…”

(Hancock, 2002: 2). It deals with social issues and the elucidation of how the issues occur in society.

Moreover, the qualitative approach also “describes social phenomena as

they occur naturally” (ibid.). Therefore, the qualitative approach is also descriptive, in the way the phenomena are described to be analyzed. The description is natural which means there is no deliberate change in the phenomena because qualitative research attempts to analyze the phenomena as the way it is.

The research used semiotic analysis as the method of the analysis.

Barthes’ orders of signification were employed to reveal the meaning of the codes of fashion implied in the images. There are denotative, connotative, and mythical meaning analysis. Firstly, the selected scenes of the music videos were described, as the denotative meaning analysis, and interpreted, as the connotative meaning analysis. Afterward, binary opposition was made as further analysis to decipher myths.

There are two types of analysis conducted: descriptive and interpretative. Descriptive means the analysis is only a pure description without assumptions, while interpretative deals with the assumed meaning in the data (Hancock, 2000). These two stages of analysis are correlated with the two stages of

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meanings: denotation and connotation. Denotation is descriptive; it is a mere description of the data. On the other hand, connotation is interpretative; it deals with the cultural or associated meanings of the data. As already illustrated before, these two stages of meanings and the mythical meaning are the semiotic tools used to analyze the data.

3.2 Data Collection

The data investigated in this research were the selected scenes from three

music videos: Ailee’s “I Will Show You”, Taylor Swift’s “You Belong with Me”, and Super Junior M’s “Super Girl”. These scenes were selected based on the relation of the domination issue through fashion. Therefore, not all of the scenes were presented in order to keep the research focused on the particular issue.

These three music videos were not randomly selected. The selection was made based on the similarity between these videos. The similarity is that all of the videos show that the same person can portray two different types of fashion or identities. This same person with different fashion or identities receives different treatment from the surroundings merely based on her or his fashion change. Therefore, these videos show the power of fashion as a code that can change others’ behavior toward the wearer.

The first video is Ailee’s “I Will Show You”. Ailee is a South Korean singer. The video was uploaded in YouTube on October 15, 2012 by LOENENT. The song is in Korean. Therefore, English translation of the song was obtained in order to help to understand and analyze the video.

The music video tells about a story of a girl (portrayed by Ailee) who finds her boyfriend being with another woman. Later, she wants to take revenge by changing her appearances. By doing so, she wants to show him that she can be prettier. She also wants to show that she will not cry because of him and show her stronger side instead. Immediately she has changed her looks, many men start to chase her. She becomes like a superstar and walks on the red carpet. In the end, her boyfriend comes back to her and she accepts him back.

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The second music video is “You Belong with Me” by Taylor Swift. The video is acquired from the official channel TaylorSwiftVEVO. It was uploaded on 16th June, 2009 in YouTube and produced by Big Machine Records. The length of the video is 3 minutes 49 seconds.

The story of the music video involves Taylor Swift who plays two roles at the same time: as the protagonist and the antagonist. As the protagonist, she wears eyeglasses, nerd fashion style, and has curly blond hair. As the antagonist, she wears fancy clothes, has black straight hair, and drives a luxurious car. The protagonist character falls in love with a boy who is the

antagonist’s boyfriend. One day, they break up and the protagonist sees that

the antagonist does not treat the boy well. In the end, the protagonist wears fancy clothes and goes to the party to meet the boy. In the party, she shows her love to the boy and vice versa and finally they can be together.

The third music video is “Super Girl” by Super Junior M. Super Junior M is a subgroup of Super Junior, a Korean boy band. Super Junior M is intended to reach the Chinese market so that the song is in Mandarin. The video was uploaded by SM Entertainment on September 14, 2009. In order to understand the lyrics, English translation of the song is used to help analyze the video.

The “Super Girl” video shows a nerd-looking boy with glasses and slick hair. He wears overall style clothes and walks childishly. He goes to a room where a party is held and looks fascinated by the circumstances. Then he sees a beautiful girl in the party and he goes approaching her to take a photo of her. However, the girl rejects him and the boy feels sad and leaves the party. Outside the room, he changes his appearance into a fashionable-looking boy who walks confidently. He enters the room again and starts to dance and enjoy the party. The girl who has rejected him sees the new him and joins the boy dancing. In the end, the boy can be accepted in the party.

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3.3 Research Procedure

The procedure of the research has several steps as follows:

a. Planning an inquiry on music videos. Music videos which have similarities were investigated. The result showed that there are three music videos which have the same issue: fashion domination. These three music videos also have a similar plot so that these videos were selected to be investigated.

b. Collecting the data. The selected music videos were downloaded from YouTube. Selected scenes from the videos were screen-capped and analyzed. The selected scenes were captured based on the relation with the issue. The scenes which are not related to the issue were not captured. Not only the data, but literature sources were also obtained as the basis of conducting the research.

c. Observing and deciphering the signs in music videos. The signs that relate to fashion domination in the videos were decoded and interpreted based

on the Barthes’ theory of orders of signification. The decoding was conducted in three steps of analysis: denotative meaning, connotative meaning, and mythical meaning. After the connotative meanings of the codes were acquired, binary opposition analysis was employed in order to discover the mythical meanings implied in the music videos.

d. Making inference and proposing suggestions. The result of the analysis was concluded and suggestions for future research were proposed.

3.4 Research Analysis Example

The fashion domination issue in Ailee’s music videos “I Will Show You” is represented in the selected scenes in the following table.

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Table 3.1

Denotative, connotative, and mythical meanings of the selected scenes in

Ailee’s music video “I Will Show You”

Before the Change After the Change

Selected Scenes 1 2 Denotation Setting Actors - Fashion Styles and Colors

- In a dark hall

- Gray/dark background color

The girl:

- Light brown clothing with polka dots pattern

- A peter pan (round shaped) collar

- Glasses

- A braided hairstyle

-In a bright hall

-White/bright background color

-A hall with red carpet (2)

The girl:

-Sleeveless clothing

-Tight shaping body clothing with wide neck opening

-Earrings and a necklace -A mini skirt dress -An untied hairstyle

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- Actions

The man beside the girl:

- A black suit with a white shirt inside

- The girl is walking with head down.

- Flat expression

- The man beside her frowns at her (2).

The men around her:

-Blue, gray, and red cardigans and a gray sweater

-Waving to the crowd (2) -Happy face (2)

-The men around her (1) and the crowd (2) focus their attention to the girl.

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CHAPTER V

CONCLUSIONS AND SUGGESTIONS

This chapter will conclude the research by reviewing the overall study. The conclusion will focus on the results of the study as the answers of the research questions. Suggestions for future research will also be presented in this chapter. 5.1 Conclusions

The research aims to investigate denotative, connotative, and mythical meanings of the selected scenes in three music videos: Ailee’s “I Will Show You”, Taylor Swift’s “You Belong with Me”, and Super Junior M’s “Super Girl”. The denotative meaning analysis shows that the three music videos tell a story about a person who changes his or her appearance to be a better person. The connotative meaning analysis discovers that the second fashion style is better than the first fashion style or the original style. The connotative meaning is obtained by interpreting the signs inside and outside the fashion. The signs outside the fashion associate its values so that the values are attached to the fashion.

In the end, the values of the first and the second fashion style are compared in binary opposition analysis. By comparing the values as binary opposition, it can be seen that the second fashion style dominates the first fashion style. The values of the second fashion style are considered as positive while the values of the first fashion style are regarded as negative. Therefore, the second fashion style is better than the first one. This conviction is made as if it is natural. The association is seen as reality and the truth. However, this is actually a myth that naturalizes ideology into reality.

The myth that the second fashion style is better than the first one is purposely made in order to maintain the dominant ideology. The second fashion style which belongs to the high class society or dominant class is created as if it is the best and better than the other fashion style so that their

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dominancy will be maintained. Therefore, the idea that the second fashion style is better than the first fashion style is a myth and it is not the reality. 5.2 Suggestions

For future research, it is suggested to focus more on the details of the fashion. The connotative meaning of various fashion styles can be explored so that the more thorough analysis of fashion will be acquired. An analysis of specific fashion style will also enrich the knowledge on fashion style as the means of communication and identity.

The development in the semiotics theory as the tool of analysis will enhance the research to the next level. It will improve the literature if the research uses contemporary theories as the tool of analysis. Therefore, the study conducted will be more suitable with the present time.

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CHAPTER V

CONCLUSIONS AND SUGGESTIONS

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dominancy will be maintained. Therefore, the idea that the second fashion style is better than the first fashion style is a myth and it is not the reality. 5.2 Suggestions

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Oxford Advanced Learner’s Dictionary of Current English (Low-priced ed.). 1974. Oxford: Oxord University Press.

Schiermer,‎ B.‎ 2010.‎ Fashion‎ Victims:‎ On‎ the‎ Individualizing‎ and‎ De

-individualizing‎Powers‎of‎Fashion.‎Fashion Theory,‎[e-journal]‎14‎(1),‎

Sukyadi, D. 2011. Teori dan Analisis Semiotika. Bandung: Rizqi Press.

Stone, T. L., Adams, S., & Morioka, N. 2006. Color design workbook: a real-world guide to using color in graphic design. Massachusetts: Rockport Publishers.

A SEMIOTIC ANALYSIS OF FASHION DOMINATION THROUGH SIGNS IN MUSIC VIDEOS.

A Semiotic Analysis of Fashion Domination through Signs

in Music Videos

By:

ERIKA KHAIRUNNISA

0808519

ENGLISH EDUCATION DEPARTMENT

FACULTY OF LANGUAGE AND ARTS EDUCATION

INDONESIAN UNIVERSITY OF EDUCATION

A Semiotic Analysis of Fashion

Domination through Signs in Music

Videos

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A Semiotic Analysis of Fashion Domination through Signs

in Music Videos

By:

ERIKA KHAIRUNNISA

0808519

ENGLISH EDUCATION DEPARTMENT

FACULTY OF LANGUAGE AND ARTS EDUCATION

INDONESIAN UNIVERSITY OF EDUCATION

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Domination through Signs in Music

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INTRODUCTION

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