Comfort and mechanical properties of pol
Com fort and Mechanical Properties of
Polyester/ Bam boo and Polyester/ Cotton Blended
Knitted Fabric
Uzair Hussain, Farhad Bin Younis, Faisal Usman, Tanveer Hussain, Faheem Ahmed
National Textile University, Yarn Manufacturing, Faisalabad, Punjab PAKISTAN
Correspondence to:
Uzair Hussain email: hussainuzairntu@gmail.com
ABSTRACT
The mechanical and comfort properties of
polyester/bamboo and polyester/cotton knitted fabrics
were studied. Four different ratios, P/B 65/35, P/B
50/50, P/B 35/65, P/B 20/80, P/C 65/35, P/C 50/50,
P/C 35/65, P/C 20/80 of both blends were produced
by mixing at the blow room stage. Then yarns of
equal count Ne 20 were made on a ring spinning
machine, and a knitted fabric was produced on a
single jersey weft knitting machine.
Knitting is a process of making a fabric by forming
loops. A knitted fabric is characterized by courses
and whales that run vertically and horizontally
respectively. Knitting has many advantages because
of its economical and relatively fast process together
with comfort aspects of the end product. Knitted
apparel is stretchable, permeable, and moisture
absorbent which renders some feasible performance
properties. Tight T-shirts, summer vests, and hosiery
garments like socks and gloves all are the products of
knitting due their comfort and performance attributes.
It was observed that by increasing bamboo and cotton
fiber content in the blends, yarn breaking force and
tenacity were decreased. Bursting strength, bending
rigidity, and thermal resistance of the blended fabrics
decreased by increasing bamboo and cotton fiber
content in the blends, while air permeability and
moisture management capability was found to
increase with the increase in bamboo and cotton fiber
content. No antimicrobial activity was shown by any
of the P/B blended fabric, but to some extent, 100%
bamboo fiber showed antibacterial activity against
gram negative bacteria while against gram positive
bacteria, no activity was observed.
Bamboo fiber is a regenerated cellulosic fiber
produced from bamboo. Starchy pulp is produced
from bamboo stems and leaves through a process of
alkaline hydrolysis and multi-phase bleaching.
Further chemical processes produce bamboo fiber.
Repeated technological analysis has proved that this
kind of fiber has a thinness degree and whiteness
degree close to normal finely bleached viscose and
has strong durability, stability, and tenacity [1]. Most
of the bamboo used to make bamboo fiber and
bamboo clothing is grown in China by Hebei Jigao
Chemical Fiber Company; they hold the patent on the
process for turning bamboo into fiber. This facility
produces all of the bamboo viscose on the market.
The bamboo is certified organic by OCIA (The
Organic Crop Improvement Association) [2]
Following are its prominent features:
Keywords: bamboo, thermal resistance, moisture
management, bursting strength
INTRODUCTION
Due to changes in technological trends and rapid
pace in the area of textiles, there is significant change
in taste regarding satisfaction. Consumers today, not
only desire aesthetic appeal of apparel, but also its
comfort and performance attributes. In fact these two
attributes together with protection ability of the end
product play a prominent role when selecting the
desired product. Comfort aspect has become the need
of almost every individual.
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics
Volume 10, Issue 2 – 2015
• Softer than cotton, with a texture similar to a
blend of cashmere and silk.
• Because the cross-section of the fiber is filled
with various micro-gaps and micro-holes, it has
much better moisture absorption and ventilation.
Moisture absorbency is twice than that of cotton
with extraordinary soil release.
• Natural antibacterial elements (bio-agent
“bamboo kun”) in bamboo fiber keep bacteria
away from bamboo fabrics.
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• Garments of bamboo fiber can absorb and
evaporate human sweat in a split second just like
breathing. Such a garment makes people feel
extremely cool and comfortable and never sticks
to skin even in hot summer.
• 100% bamboo yarns show great elasticity, nearly
20%. Even in 100% bamboo woven fabrics, a
remarkable elasticity can be obtained wherein the
use of elastomeric fibers like elastomers may be
eliminated.
• Bamboo fabrics need less dyestuff than cotton,
modal, or viscose. It seems that the absorption of
dyestuffs is remarkably better. Bamboo absorbs
the dyestuffs faster and shows the colors better.
• Anti-ultraviolet nature of bamboo fiber makes it
it suitable for summer clothing, especially for the
protection of pregnant ladies and children from
the effect of ultraviolet radiation.
• Products of bamboo fiber are eco-friendly and
bio-degradable [1].
was Pakistani cotton. Eight plain knitted (singlejersey) fabrics of 47 courses/inch and 35 wales/inch
with a stitch length of 4.92 mm were produced using
ring spun blended yarns of P/B 65/35, P/B 50/50, P/B
35/65, P/B 20/80, P/C 65/35, P/C 50/50, P/C 35/65,
P/C 20/80, polyester/bamboo and polyester/cotton
respectively. The GSM of the fabrics was found to be
235 (gm. /m2). Polyester and bamboo fibers of 1
denier and 1.2 denier and 38 mm staple length were
used for the study, while cotton used had Micronaire
value of 4.9 and staple length of 27 mm. Yarns of
equal linear density 29.525 tex (Ne 20) nominal
count were produced on a conventional ring spinning
frame, RY-5 from Toyoda with a spindle speed of
16,400 rpm and a twist multiplier of 3.5. Blended
yarns were then knitted on a single jersey weft
knitting (Fukuhara Japan) machine with a 20 mm
gauge, 2.5” diameter and 90 feeders.
Knitted fabrics were then bleached, in a single bath
with 5 g/l NaOH, 8 g/l H2O2, 1 g/l wetting agent and
o
2 g/l stabilizer at 90 C for one hour.
Although there are some drawbacks of bamboo, even
then it has many applications like:
• Intimate apparel, including sweaters, bath-suits,
underwear, tight t-shirt, and socks.
• Due to its anti-bacterial nature, nonwoven fabric
has wide prospects in the field of hygiene
materials such as sanitary napkins, masks,
mattress, and food packing bags.
• Sanitary materials include bandages, masks,
surgical clothes, and nurse wear. It has
incomparably wide foreground on application in
sanitary material such as sanitary towels, gauze
masks, absorbent pads, and food packing.
• Decorating items such as curtains, television
covers, wallpaper, and sofa slipcovers.
• Bathroom products such as towels and bath robes
[1].
After processing, the samples were tested for
bursting strength according to standard test method
for bursting strength ASTM D 3787-07
The liquid moisture management properties of a
textile material were evaluated by AATCC TM 1952009 using moisture management tester M-290 SDL
Atlas, UK.
Air permeability of the fabric was measured by using
standard test method for air permeability of Textile
fabrics ASTM D737 – 04 (2008)
The stiffness of the fabric was measured using
standard test method for stiffness of fabrics B.S.
3356-1961
Although natural fibers entail comfort properties to
the users of textile apparel, the demands have been
changed with rising technological trends and
standards of living. Users of textile materials not only
desire comfort, but aesthetic and functional properties
as well. Also the product should be cost effective in
order to meet the requirements of customers. The
objective of this study was to manufacture a product
that will not only be superior in comfort and
performance, but also cost effective.
Antibacterial characteristic of the samples was
evaluated using standard test method for testing of
antibacterial activity and efficacy on textile products
JIS L 1902-2008.Thermal resistance of the samples
was found using the sweating guarded hotplate
standard test method for testing ISO 11092- 1993,
ASTM F1868, and GB 11048.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Fiber and Yarn Results
Properties of cotton, polyester, and bamboo fiber
used are shown in the Table I and Table II
respectively.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
For this study bamboo fiber was imported from
Hebei Jigao Chemical Fiber Company Limited,
China and polyester fibers from Ibrahim Fibers
Faisalabad, Pakistan. Also cotton used for the study
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TABLE III. Yarn Results.
TABLE I. Properties of cotton fiber used.
Fiber Parameters
Units
Cotton
Micronaire
μg/inch
4.9
Strength
g/tex
Blend Ratio
U%
IPI
B-Force (cN)
Tenacity
(cN/Tex)
28.8
P/C 65/35
10.03
135.5
756.9
25.63
Length
mm
27
P/C 50/50
11.12
282.5
578.9
19.6
Uniformity
%
82
P/C 35/65
11.57
341
509.84
17.27
Short Fiber Index(SFI)
%
8.2
P/C 20/80
11.56
330
488.3
16.54
P/B 65/35
8.51
9.5
733.74
24.85
P/B 50/50
8.82
12
673
22.79
P/B 35/65
9.37
12.5
634.4
21.48
P/B 20/80
10.02
16
565.2
19.14
Elongation
%
5.1
Rd value
-
71.7
+b value
-
9.7
TABLE II. Properties of polyester and bamboo fibers used.
Fiber
Parameters
Unit
Linear density
Denier (d)
1
1.2
Cut length
mm
38
38
Tenacity
g/d
7
2.27
Elongation
%
22
20.5
Polyester
Breaking Force and Tenacity
Table III shows the results of breaking force and
tenacity of different ratios. Both breaking force and
tenacity decrease with increase in proportion of
cotton and bamboo in P/C and P/B blends
respectively. This may be due to the low tenacity
(Table I and Table II) and weak cohesion of cotton
and bamboo fibers in the resultant yarn because fiber
strength plays a vital role in the strength of yarn.
Results of breaking force and tenacity are shown in
Figure 1 and Figure 2 respectively.
Bamboo
No. of crimps
-
12
-
Moisture regain
%
0.4
11.25
Color
-
Semi dull
Semi dull
U% and IPI
The results regarding U% and imperfections were
found as expected. U% and imperfection values of
polyester, cotton blended yarns were found to
increase with increase in proportion of cotton in the
blend. The presence of short fiber content in the
cotton leads to floating fibers in the drafting zone
which causes thick, thin places in the drafted strand
as the shorter fibers are not bound in the final strand
and come out of the yarn salvage creating more
imperfections and more unevenness in the yarn. As
far as polyester, bamboo blended yarns are
concerned, there is less unevenness and imperfections
as compared to P/C blended yarns. But there is
increase in unevenness and imperfections with
increase in bamboo percentage in the blend.
FIGURE 1. Breaking force different blended yarns.
Results of yarns blended are shown in Table III.
FIGURE 2. Tenacity of different blended yarns.
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Figure 3 shows the comparison of average tenacity
between P/B and P/C blended yarns. It is clear from
the figure that average tenacity of P/B blend is higher
than that of P/C blend. Because P/C lends have more
imperfections that leads to less overall tenacity.
Also the tenacity of bamboo fiber is less than
polyester fiber which further ads to the diminishing
bursting strength.
The lower bursting strength of cotton rich P/C fabric
can be attributed to low elongation of cotton fiber
than polyester as shown in (Table I) that result in low
elongation in yarn. Low tenacity of cotton fiber also
contributes to the results achieved. Comparison of
bursting strengths is also shown in Figure 4.
Bursting Strength (kPa)
800
600
FIGURE 3. Average Tenacity of different blended yarns.
400
Fabric Results and Analysis
Bursting Strength
Bursting strength is an important property regarding
functional behavior of knitted apparel. Knitted gloves
and socks should have considerable bursting strength
in order to provide sufficient resistance to bursting.
Results of bursting strength tests are shown in Table
IV.
200
FIGURE 4. Bursting Strength of P/B and P/C blended fabrics.
TABLE IV. Bursting strength of P/B and P/C knitted fabrics.
Bursting Strength (kPa)
Blend Ratio
Mean Values
P/C 65/35
610
P/C 50/50
553.5
P/C 35/65
497
P/C 20/80
454
P/B 65/35
590
P/B 50/50
552
P/B 35/65
496.5
P/B 20/80
451.5
FIGURE 5. Average Bursting Strength of P/B and P/C blended
fabrics.
Figure 5 shows that overall bursting strength of
P/C blend is higher than P/B blend due to higher
tenacity of cotton fiber as compared to bamboo
fiber.
Bursting strength of the blended fabrics was
decreased by increasing bamboo fiber content in P/B
blended fabric and cotton in P/C blended fabric.
Air Permeability
The air permeability of a fabric is a measure of how
well it allows the air passage through the fabric. Air
permeability is defined as the volume of air in
millilitres which is passed in one second through 100
2
mm of the fabric at a different pressure.
These results can be attributed to low elongation at
break of bamboo fiber as compared to polyester fiber
[3]. As shown in (Table II) elongation% of polyester
fiber is 22% which is more than bamboo fiber,
resulting in less elongation of yarn and hence
bursting strength of bamboo rich fabric deceased.
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It is an important property of knitted materials that
allows transport of moisture from the fabric and flow
of fresh air to the human skin. Air permeability
values of P/B and P/C knitted fabrics are listed in
Table V.
TABLE V. Air Permeability Results.
Air Permeability (mm/s)
Blend Ratio
Mean Value
P/C 65/35
400.5601
P/C 50/50
413.2601
P/C 35/65
420.2601
P/C 20/80
433.4
P/B 65/35
370.5
P/B 50/50
390.4101
P/B 35/65
410.4101
P/B 20/80
413.7
FIGURE 7. Average Air Permeability of P/B and P/C blended
fabrics.
Figure 7 shows, that average air permeability of
P/C blend is more than P/B blend because of micro
gaps in the structure of cotton fiber it offers less air
resistance.
Thermal Resistance
Thermal resistance is measure of the amount of
resistance offered by the knitted material to the flow
of heat from skin to the external environment. The
results of thermal resistance of different blend ratios
are shown in the Table VI.
It is clear from above values that, by increasing
bamboo fiber content and cotton fiber content in the
blend, air permeability were increased. It has been
found in the literature that with the increase in
bamboo fiber content in the blend, thickness and
weight of the fabric tends to decrease [4]. Due to
which air permeability of the bamboo rich fabric will
increase. As bamboo rich fabric becomes thinner and
light weight, so air permeability is increased due to
less resistance to air flow. The air permeability
results are shown in the Figure 6.
TABLE VI. Thermal Resistance of P/B and P/C fabrics.
Sr. No.
Air Permeability (mm/s)
450
400
350
300
Thermal Resistance
Blend Ratio
Rct Value
1
P/C 65/35
0.023
2
P/C 50/50
0.0208
3
P/C 35/65
0.0198
4
P/C 20/80
0.018
5
P/B 65/35
0.023
6
P/B 50/50
0.021
7
P/B 35/65
0.019
8
P/B 20/80
0.016
Air permeability was also increased by increasing
cotton fiber content in the P/C blended fabric.
From the values of thermal resistance it is clear that
by increasing bamboo fiber content in the fabric,
thermal resistance is decreased. Thermal resistance is
a function of thickness and thermal conductivity of
the fabric [4]. As observed earlier with an increase in
bamboo fiber proportion, the thickness of fabric is
decreased which results in decreased thermal
resistance of bamboo rich fabrics. This can also be
attributed to the low diameter of bamboo fiber as
compared to polyester fiber, which causes
compression of layers reducing fabric thickness.
This is due to the reason that with an increase in
polyester fiber content in the fabric, yarn diameter is
increased [5] and as a result, inter yarn spacing is
reduced creating hindrance for the air flow through
the fabric.
Thermal resistance of P/C blended fabrics was also
reduced by an increase in the content of cotton in the
fabric blend. This can be explained in the way that,
an increase in polyester content in the blend increases
fabric thickness causing an increase in thermal
FIGURE 6. Air Permeability of P/B and P/C blended fabrics.
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TABLE VII. OMMC values of P/B and P/C blend ratios.
resistance. Also convolutions in cotton increase
trapped air. The decrease in thermal resistance or
insulation due to increase in cotton content is due to
the result of more moisture content of cotton fiber
[5]. Thermal resistance of different blends is shown
in Figure 8.
Sr. No.
Blend Ratio
OMMC
1
P/B 65/35
0.3293
2
P/B 50/50
0.3972
3
P/B 35/65
0.3978
4
P/B 20/80
0.4061
5
P/C 65/35
0.4329
6
P/C 50/50
0.449
7
P/C 35/65
0.4592
8
P/C 20/80
0.4625
Table VII shows that moisture absorption increases
with an increase in bamboo and cotton fiber content
in the blends.
It was observed before that vapor permeability and
absorbency of textile material increases with an
increase in the hydrophilic proportion in the
resultant material, because increasing hygroscopic
proportion enhances drying of sweat close to the
skin. The same is the case with P/B and P/C blends:
increasing hygroscopic content in the blend
increases moisture absorption and results faster
drying of sweat from the skin [6].
FIGURE 8. Thermal resistance of P/B and P/C blended fabrics.
Too much moisture absorption can also lead to
problems, because a material that absorbs more
moisture can cause stickiness and dampness, due to
less moisture spreading over the fabric surface. This
may be reason that OMMC of P/C blended fabric is
relatively higher than P/B blended fabrics. Results
of OMMC are shown in the Figure 10.
FIGURE 9. Average Thermal Resistance of P/B and P/C blended
fabrics.
Figure 9 clearly demonstrates that overall thermal
resistance of P/C blend is higher than P/B blended
fabric as P/C blend offers more air permeability, so
resistance to heat is increased because of more
trapped air.
Moisture Management Capability
Moisture management is an essential feature of a
textile material regarding its comfort appeal.
Blending also has a vital role in moisture related
capability of a textile material.
Moisture management values of different blend
ratios are shown in the Table VII.
FIGURE 10. Comparisons of OMMC of blended fabrics.
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FIGURE 11. Comparisons of average OMMC of blended fabrics.
FIGURE 12. Bending length of fabric samples.
Figure 11 shows that average OMMC of P/C Blends
is higher than P/B blend as described before.
Bending Length
It is a property of a textile material determined by its
resistance to bending in further processing and use. It
is an important property regarding aesthetic and
drape ability of textile materials. Bending Length
results are shown in the Table VIII.
TABLE VIII. Bending Length of fabrics.
Sr. No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Blend Ratio
P/C 65/35
P/C 50/50
P/C 35/65
P/C 20/80
P/B 65/35
P/B 50/50
P/B 35/65
P/B 20/80
FIGURE 13. Average Bending length of fabric samples.
Bending Rigidity
1.55
1.51
1.45
1.42
1.13
1.06
1.05
1.03
Figure 13 depicts that overall bending length of P/C
blend is more than that of P/B blend as described
before that due to compression of layers by
increasing bamboo proportion, fabric becomes
thinner so bending rigidity decreases.
Antimicrobial Activity
One of the most important characteristic of bamboo
fiber is its inherent antimicrobial efficacy. The most
significant components in the bamboo’s chemical
constitution are those providing its extraordinary
fungal and bacterial resistance. The one responsible
for antibacterial properties is 2.6-bimethoxy-pbenzoquinone, called ‘Bambookun’. The highly
distinctive fungal resistance occurs due to a protein –
dendrocin.
Table VIII shows that there is a decrease in the
bending length of fabric with an increase in bamboo
and cotton fiber content in the P/B and P/C blended
fabrics.
As observed before there is a decrease in the
thickness of bamboo rich fabric due to which it offers
less resistance to bending. This may also be attributed
to the larger diameter of polyester fiber which
increases diameter of the yarn and increases the
bending length of polyester rich fabric.
Antimicrobial activity of P/B blended fabric samples
and 100% bamboo fiber was investigated using
qualitative analysis.
The same is the case with P/C blended fabric. An
increase in cotton proportion reduces bending length.
Here also by increasing cotton content, the diameter
of yarn decreases and hence fabric stiffness in the end
decreases. Also weak cohesion of fibers in cotton rich
fabric causes the fabric to bend more easily.
Comparison of bending length of different blends is
shown in the Figure 12.
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics
Volume 10, Issue 2 – 2015
Antibacterial characteristic of the samples was
evaluated using the standard test method for testing
of antibacterial activity and efficacy on textile
products: JIS L 1902-2008 against Staphylococcus
aureus and Escherichia coli, gram positive and gram
negative bacteria, respectively.
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• Air permeability of P/B and P/C blended fabric
increases by increasing bamboo and cotton fiber
content in the blend, while thermal resistance of
the fabric decreases with an increase in bamboo
and cotton fiber content in the blends.
• Moisture management capability of the P/B and
P/C blended fabrics was found to increase with
an increase in the proportion of bamboo and
cotton fiber content respectively.
• Enhanced air permeability and moisture
management property of P/B and P/C blended
fabrics entail excellent comfort properties and
fabric can be used as comfort apparel for summer.
• Bending length of the blended fabrics was found
to decrease with an increase in bamboo and
cotton fiber content providing another aspect to
the aesthetic and drape ability of the fabric.
• There was no antibacterial activity shown by any
of the P/B blend against any of the bacteria. But
there was some sort of activity shown by 100%
bamboo fiber against gram negative bacteria
(Escherichia coli). These results show that the
bamboo fiber used here do not possess effective
antimicrobial efficacy.
The 100% bamboo fiber test was performed using
absorbency method.
Findings of the test are as follows:
•
•
As far as P/B blended samples are concerned, no
antibacterial activity was shown by any of the
samples, even most bamboo rich fabric sample
(P/B 20/80) did not show any antibacterial
efficacy.
Results of 100% bamboo fiber are shown in the
Table IX.
TABLE IX. Results of antimicrobial activity.
Control
variable
Absorbency
Activity
(%)
Culture
Sample
E. coli
0.738
0.585
20.73
S. aureus
0.969
0.953
1.6
Table XI shows that little (negligible) activity is
shown by 100% bamboo fiber towards
Staphylococcus (gram positive bacteria) while the
efficacy of 100% bamboo fiber towards Escherichia
coli is far better than Staphylococcus aurous, but not
significant in terms of protection against bacteria and
microbes. This indicates that bamboo fiber will not
show any antibacterial activity if it is blended with
cotton or polyester. This may be due to the reason
that fiber used is not pure bamboo fiber rather it is a
manmade viscose obtained from bamboo cellulose
[7].
REFERENCES
[1]
[2]
CONCLUSION
• With an increase in bamboo fiber content in the
P/B fabric, generally there is increase in U% and,
imperfections and a decline in breaking force and
tenacity of the yarn with an increase in bamboo
fiber content.
• With an increase in cotton fiber content in the
P/C blend there is a considerable increase in
imperfections and general decrease in tenacity
and breaking force due to weak cohesion of
cotton fibers.
• By increasing the bamboo fiber content in P/B
blend, there is decrease in the bursting strength of
the fabric. Same is the case with P/C blended
fabric.
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics
Volume 10, Issue 2 – 2015
[3]
[4]
68
Das, S, "Properties of Bamboo Fiber," [Online].
Available:
http://www.fiber2fashion.com/industryarticle/textile-industry-articles/properties-ofbamboo-fiber/properties-of-bamboofiber1.asp. [Accessed April 4, 2013].
Wikipedia, “Bamboo Textiles (Source of raw
material),”
[online]
Available:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/bamboo
[accessed
April 4, 2013].
Chidambaram, P, Govindan, R, Venkatraman,
K, C, "Study Of Thermal Comfort Properties
Of Cotton/Regenerated Bamboo Knitted
Fabrics," African Journal of Basic & Applied
Sciences ISSN 2079-203, Vol. 4(2), April
2012, pp. 60-66.
Mahesh, S, S, Patra, A, K, Thakur, R,
"Functional Properties Of Bamboo/Polyester
Knitted Apparel Fabrics," Indian Journal of
fiber and textile Research, vol. # 37,
September 2012, pp. 231-237.
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[5]
[6]
[7]
Tyagi, G, K, Bhattacharya, S, Kumar, P, "Hand
Related Properties of Polyester-Cotton and
Polyester-Viscose Ring and Mjs Yarn
Fabrics", Indian Journal of Fiber and Textile
Research, Vol. # 33, June 2008, pp. 126-131.
Das B, et al, “Moisture Flow through Blended
Fabrics-Effect of Hydrophobicity”, Journal
of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, Vol. 4(4),
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AUTHORS’ ADDRESSES
Uzair Hussain
Farhad Bin Younis
Faisal Usman
Tanveer Hussain
Faheem Ahmed
National Textile University
Yarn Manufacturing
Shiekhupura Road
Faisalabad, Punjab 35200
PAKISTAN
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics
Volume 10, Issue 2 – 2015
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Polyester/ Bam boo and Polyester/ Cotton Blended
Knitted Fabric
Uzair Hussain, Farhad Bin Younis, Faisal Usman, Tanveer Hussain, Faheem Ahmed
National Textile University, Yarn Manufacturing, Faisalabad, Punjab PAKISTAN
Correspondence to:
Uzair Hussain email: hussainuzairntu@gmail.com
ABSTRACT
The mechanical and comfort properties of
polyester/bamboo and polyester/cotton knitted fabrics
were studied. Four different ratios, P/B 65/35, P/B
50/50, P/B 35/65, P/B 20/80, P/C 65/35, P/C 50/50,
P/C 35/65, P/C 20/80 of both blends were produced
by mixing at the blow room stage. Then yarns of
equal count Ne 20 were made on a ring spinning
machine, and a knitted fabric was produced on a
single jersey weft knitting machine.
Knitting is a process of making a fabric by forming
loops. A knitted fabric is characterized by courses
and whales that run vertically and horizontally
respectively. Knitting has many advantages because
of its economical and relatively fast process together
with comfort aspects of the end product. Knitted
apparel is stretchable, permeable, and moisture
absorbent which renders some feasible performance
properties. Tight T-shirts, summer vests, and hosiery
garments like socks and gloves all are the products of
knitting due their comfort and performance attributes.
It was observed that by increasing bamboo and cotton
fiber content in the blends, yarn breaking force and
tenacity were decreased. Bursting strength, bending
rigidity, and thermal resistance of the blended fabrics
decreased by increasing bamboo and cotton fiber
content in the blends, while air permeability and
moisture management capability was found to
increase with the increase in bamboo and cotton fiber
content. No antimicrobial activity was shown by any
of the P/B blended fabric, but to some extent, 100%
bamboo fiber showed antibacterial activity against
gram negative bacteria while against gram positive
bacteria, no activity was observed.
Bamboo fiber is a regenerated cellulosic fiber
produced from bamboo. Starchy pulp is produced
from bamboo stems and leaves through a process of
alkaline hydrolysis and multi-phase bleaching.
Further chemical processes produce bamboo fiber.
Repeated technological analysis has proved that this
kind of fiber has a thinness degree and whiteness
degree close to normal finely bleached viscose and
has strong durability, stability, and tenacity [1]. Most
of the bamboo used to make bamboo fiber and
bamboo clothing is grown in China by Hebei Jigao
Chemical Fiber Company; they hold the patent on the
process for turning bamboo into fiber. This facility
produces all of the bamboo viscose on the market.
The bamboo is certified organic by OCIA (The
Organic Crop Improvement Association) [2]
Following are its prominent features:
Keywords: bamboo, thermal resistance, moisture
management, bursting strength
INTRODUCTION
Due to changes in technological trends and rapid
pace in the area of textiles, there is significant change
in taste regarding satisfaction. Consumers today, not
only desire aesthetic appeal of apparel, but also its
comfort and performance attributes. In fact these two
attributes together with protection ability of the end
product play a prominent role when selecting the
desired product. Comfort aspect has become the need
of almost every individual.
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics
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• Softer than cotton, with a texture similar to a
blend of cashmere and silk.
• Because the cross-section of the fiber is filled
with various micro-gaps and micro-holes, it has
much better moisture absorption and ventilation.
Moisture absorbency is twice than that of cotton
with extraordinary soil release.
• Natural antibacterial elements (bio-agent
“bamboo kun”) in bamboo fiber keep bacteria
away from bamboo fabrics.
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• Garments of bamboo fiber can absorb and
evaporate human sweat in a split second just like
breathing. Such a garment makes people feel
extremely cool and comfortable and never sticks
to skin even in hot summer.
• 100% bamboo yarns show great elasticity, nearly
20%. Even in 100% bamboo woven fabrics, a
remarkable elasticity can be obtained wherein the
use of elastomeric fibers like elastomers may be
eliminated.
• Bamboo fabrics need less dyestuff than cotton,
modal, or viscose. It seems that the absorption of
dyestuffs is remarkably better. Bamboo absorbs
the dyestuffs faster and shows the colors better.
• Anti-ultraviolet nature of bamboo fiber makes it
it suitable for summer clothing, especially for the
protection of pregnant ladies and children from
the effect of ultraviolet radiation.
• Products of bamboo fiber are eco-friendly and
bio-degradable [1].
was Pakistani cotton. Eight plain knitted (singlejersey) fabrics of 47 courses/inch and 35 wales/inch
with a stitch length of 4.92 mm were produced using
ring spun blended yarns of P/B 65/35, P/B 50/50, P/B
35/65, P/B 20/80, P/C 65/35, P/C 50/50, P/C 35/65,
P/C 20/80, polyester/bamboo and polyester/cotton
respectively. The GSM of the fabrics was found to be
235 (gm. /m2). Polyester and bamboo fibers of 1
denier and 1.2 denier and 38 mm staple length were
used for the study, while cotton used had Micronaire
value of 4.9 and staple length of 27 mm. Yarns of
equal linear density 29.525 tex (Ne 20) nominal
count were produced on a conventional ring spinning
frame, RY-5 from Toyoda with a spindle speed of
16,400 rpm and a twist multiplier of 3.5. Blended
yarns were then knitted on a single jersey weft
knitting (Fukuhara Japan) machine with a 20 mm
gauge, 2.5” diameter and 90 feeders.
Knitted fabrics were then bleached, in a single bath
with 5 g/l NaOH, 8 g/l H2O2, 1 g/l wetting agent and
o
2 g/l stabilizer at 90 C for one hour.
Although there are some drawbacks of bamboo, even
then it has many applications like:
• Intimate apparel, including sweaters, bath-suits,
underwear, tight t-shirt, and socks.
• Due to its anti-bacterial nature, nonwoven fabric
has wide prospects in the field of hygiene
materials such as sanitary napkins, masks,
mattress, and food packing bags.
• Sanitary materials include bandages, masks,
surgical clothes, and nurse wear. It has
incomparably wide foreground on application in
sanitary material such as sanitary towels, gauze
masks, absorbent pads, and food packing.
• Decorating items such as curtains, television
covers, wallpaper, and sofa slipcovers.
• Bathroom products such as towels and bath robes
[1].
After processing, the samples were tested for
bursting strength according to standard test method
for bursting strength ASTM D 3787-07
The liquid moisture management properties of a
textile material were evaluated by AATCC TM 1952009 using moisture management tester M-290 SDL
Atlas, UK.
Air permeability of the fabric was measured by using
standard test method for air permeability of Textile
fabrics ASTM D737 – 04 (2008)
The stiffness of the fabric was measured using
standard test method for stiffness of fabrics B.S.
3356-1961
Although natural fibers entail comfort properties to
the users of textile apparel, the demands have been
changed with rising technological trends and
standards of living. Users of textile materials not only
desire comfort, but aesthetic and functional properties
as well. Also the product should be cost effective in
order to meet the requirements of customers. The
objective of this study was to manufacture a product
that will not only be superior in comfort and
performance, but also cost effective.
Antibacterial characteristic of the samples was
evaluated using standard test method for testing of
antibacterial activity and efficacy on textile products
JIS L 1902-2008.Thermal resistance of the samples
was found using the sweating guarded hotplate
standard test method for testing ISO 11092- 1993,
ASTM F1868, and GB 11048.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Fiber and Yarn Results
Properties of cotton, polyester, and bamboo fiber
used are shown in the Table I and Table II
respectively.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
For this study bamboo fiber was imported from
Hebei Jigao Chemical Fiber Company Limited,
China and polyester fibers from Ibrahim Fibers
Faisalabad, Pakistan. Also cotton used for the study
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TABLE III. Yarn Results.
TABLE I. Properties of cotton fiber used.
Fiber Parameters
Units
Cotton
Micronaire
μg/inch
4.9
Strength
g/tex
Blend Ratio
U%
IPI
B-Force (cN)
Tenacity
(cN/Tex)
28.8
P/C 65/35
10.03
135.5
756.9
25.63
Length
mm
27
P/C 50/50
11.12
282.5
578.9
19.6
Uniformity
%
82
P/C 35/65
11.57
341
509.84
17.27
Short Fiber Index(SFI)
%
8.2
P/C 20/80
11.56
330
488.3
16.54
P/B 65/35
8.51
9.5
733.74
24.85
P/B 50/50
8.82
12
673
22.79
P/B 35/65
9.37
12.5
634.4
21.48
P/B 20/80
10.02
16
565.2
19.14
Elongation
%
5.1
Rd value
-
71.7
+b value
-
9.7
TABLE II. Properties of polyester and bamboo fibers used.
Fiber
Parameters
Unit
Linear density
Denier (d)
1
1.2
Cut length
mm
38
38
Tenacity
g/d
7
2.27
Elongation
%
22
20.5
Polyester
Breaking Force and Tenacity
Table III shows the results of breaking force and
tenacity of different ratios. Both breaking force and
tenacity decrease with increase in proportion of
cotton and bamboo in P/C and P/B blends
respectively. This may be due to the low tenacity
(Table I and Table II) and weak cohesion of cotton
and bamboo fibers in the resultant yarn because fiber
strength plays a vital role in the strength of yarn.
Results of breaking force and tenacity are shown in
Figure 1 and Figure 2 respectively.
Bamboo
No. of crimps
-
12
-
Moisture regain
%
0.4
11.25
Color
-
Semi dull
Semi dull
U% and IPI
The results regarding U% and imperfections were
found as expected. U% and imperfection values of
polyester, cotton blended yarns were found to
increase with increase in proportion of cotton in the
blend. The presence of short fiber content in the
cotton leads to floating fibers in the drafting zone
which causes thick, thin places in the drafted strand
as the shorter fibers are not bound in the final strand
and come out of the yarn salvage creating more
imperfections and more unevenness in the yarn. As
far as polyester, bamboo blended yarns are
concerned, there is less unevenness and imperfections
as compared to P/C blended yarns. But there is
increase in unevenness and imperfections with
increase in bamboo percentage in the blend.
FIGURE 1. Breaking force different blended yarns.
Results of yarns blended are shown in Table III.
FIGURE 2. Tenacity of different blended yarns.
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Figure 3 shows the comparison of average tenacity
between P/B and P/C blended yarns. It is clear from
the figure that average tenacity of P/B blend is higher
than that of P/C blend. Because P/C lends have more
imperfections that leads to less overall tenacity.
Also the tenacity of bamboo fiber is less than
polyester fiber which further ads to the diminishing
bursting strength.
The lower bursting strength of cotton rich P/C fabric
can be attributed to low elongation of cotton fiber
than polyester as shown in (Table I) that result in low
elongation in yarn. Low tenacity of cotton fiber also
contributes to the results achieved. Comparison of
bursting strengths is also shown in Figure 4.
Bursting Strength (kPa)
800
600
FIGURE 3. Average Tenacity of different blended yarns.
400
Fabric Results and Analysis
Bursting Strength
Bursting strength is an important property regarding
functional behavior of knitted apparel. Knitted gloves
and socks should have considerable bursting strength
in order to provide sufficient resistance to bursting.
Results of bursting strength tests are shown in Table
IV.
200
FIGURE 4. Bursting Strength of P/B and P/C blended fabrics.
TABLE IV. Bursting strength of P/B and P/C knitted fabrics.
Bursting Strength (kPa)
Blend Ratio
Mean Values
P/C 65/35
610
P/C 50/50
553.5
P/C 35/65
497
P/C 20/80
454
P/B 65/35
590
P/B 50/50
552
P/B 35/65
496.5
P/B 20/80
451.5
FIGURE 5. Average Bursting Strength of P/B and P/C blended
fabrics.
Figure 5 shows that overall bursting strength of
P/C blend is higher than P/B blend due to higher
tenacity of cotton fiber as compared to bamboo
fiber.
Bursting strength of the blended fabrics was
decreased by increasing bamboo fiber content in P/B
blended fabric and cotton in P/C blended fabric.
Air Permeability
The air permeability of a fabric is a measure of how
well it allows the air passage through the fabric. Air
permeability is defined as the volume of air in
millilitres which is passed in one second through 100
2
mm of the fabric at a different pressure.
These results can be attributed to low elongation at
break of bamboo fiber as compared to polyester fiber
[3]. As shown in (Table II) elongation% of polyester
fiber is 22% which is more than bamboo fiber,
resulting in less elongation of yarn and hence
bursting strength of bamboo rich fabric deceased.
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It is an important property of knitted materials that
allows transport of moisture from the fabric and flow
of fresh air to the human skin. Air permeability
values of P/B and P/C knitted fabrics are listed in
Table V.
TABLE V. Air Permeability Results.
Air Permeability (mm/s)
Blend Ratio
Mean Value
P/C 65/35
400.5601
P/C 50/50
413.2601
P/C 35/65
420.2601
P/C 20/80
433.4
P/B 65/35
370.5
P/B 50/50
390.4101
P/B 35/65
410.4101
P/B 20/80
413.7
FIGURE 7. Average Air Permeability of P/B and P/C blended
fabrics.
Figure 7 shows, that average air permeability of
P/C blend is more than P/B blend because of micro
gaps in the structure of cotton fiber it offers less air
resistance.
Thermal Resistance
Thermal resistance is measure of the amount of
resistance offered by the knitted material to the flow
of heat from skin to the external environment. The
results of thermal resistance of different blend ratios
are shown in the Table VI.
It is clear from above values that, by increasing
bamboo fiber content and cotton fiber content in the
blend, air permeability were increased. It has been
found in the literature that with the increase in
bamboo fiber content in the blend, thickness and
weight of the fabric tends to decrease [4]. Due to
which air permeability of the bamboo rich fabric will
increase. As bamboo rich fabric becomes thinner and
light weight, so air permeability is increased due to
less resistance to air flow. The air permeability
results are shown in the Figure 6.
TABLE VI. Thermal Resistance of P/B and P/C fabrics.
Sr. No.
Air Permeability (mm/s)
450
400
350
300
Thermal Resistance
Blend Ratio
Rct Value
1
P/C 65/35
0.023
2
P/C 50/50
0.0208
3
P/C 35/65
0.0198
4
P/C 20/80
0.018
5
P/B 65/35
0.023
6
P/B 50/50
0.021
7
P/B 35/65
0.019
8
P/B 20/80
0.016
Air permeability was also increased by increasing
cotton fiber content in the P/C blended fabric.
From the values of thermal resistance it is clear that
by increasing bamboo fiber content in the fabric,
thermal resistance is decreased. Thermal resistance is
a function of thickness and thermal conductivity of
the fabric [4]. As observed earlier with an increase in
bamboo fiber proportion, the thickness of fabric is
decreased which results in decreased thermal
resistance of bamboo rich fabrics. This can also be
attributed to the low diameter of bamboo fiber as
compared to polyester fiber, which causes
compression of layers reducing fabric thickness.
This is due to the reason that with an increase in
polyester fiber content in the fabric, yarn diameter is
increased [5] and as a result, inter yarn spacing is
reduced creating hindrance for the air flow through
the fabric.
Thermal resistance of P/C blended fabrics was also
reduced by an increase in the content of cotton in the
fabric blend. This can be explained in the way that,
an increase in polyester content in the blend increases
fabric thickness causing an increase in thermal
FIGURE 6. Air Permeability of P/B and P/C blended fabrics.
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TABLE VII. OMMC values of P/B and P/C blend ratios.
resistance. Also convolutions in cotton increase
trapped air. The decrease in thermal resistance or
insulation due to increase in cotton content is due to
the result of more moisture content of cotton fiber
[5]. Thermal resistance of different blends is shown
in Figure 8.
Sr. No.
Blend Ratio
OMMC
1
P/B 65/35
0.3293
2
P/B 50/50
0.3972
3
P/B 35/65
0.3978
4
P/B 20/80
0.4061
5
P/C 65/35
0.4329
6
P/C 50/50
0.449
7
P/C 35/65
0.4592
8
P/C 20/80
0.4625
Table VII shows that moisture absorption increases
with an increase in bamboo and cotton fiber content
in the blends.
It was observed before that vapor permeability and
absorbency of textile material increases with an
increase in the hydrophilic proportion in the
resultant material, because increasing hygroscopic
proportion enhances drying of sweat close to the
skin. The same is the case with P/B and P/C blends:
increasing hygroscopic content in the blend
increases moisture absorption and results faster
drying of sweat from the skin [6].
FIGURE 8. Thermal resistance of P/B and P/C blended fabrics.
Too much moisture absorption can also lead to
problems, because a material that absorbs more
moisture can cause stickiness and dampness, due to
less moisture spreading over the fabric surface. This
may be reason that OMMC of P/C blended fabric is
relatively higher than P/B blended fabrics. Results
of OMMC are shown in the Figure 10.
FIGURE 9. Average Thermal Resistance of P/B and P/C blended
fabrics.
Figure 9 clearly demonstrates that overall thermal
resistance of P/C blend is higher than P/B blended
fabric as P/C blend offers more air permeability, so
resistance to heat is increased because of more
trapped air.
Moisture Management Capability
Moisture management is an essential feature of a
textile material regarding its comfort appeal.
Blending also has a vital role in moisture related
capability of a textile material.
Moisture management values of different blend
ratios are shown in the Table VII.
FIGURE 10. Comparisons of OMMC of blended fabrics.
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FIGURE 11. Comparisons of average OMMC of blended fabrics.
FIGURE 12. Bending length of fabric samples.
Figure 11 shows that average OMMC of P/C Blends
is higher than P/B blend as described before.
Bending Length
It is a property of a textile material determined by its
resistance to bending in further processing and use. It
is an important property regarding aesthetic and
drape ability of textile materials. Bending Length
results are shown in the Table VIII.
TABLE VIII. Bending Length of fabrics.
Sr. No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Blend Ratio
P/C 65/35
P/C 50/50
P/C 35/65
P/C 20/80
P/B 65/35
P/B 50/50
P/B 35/65
P/B 20/80
FIGURE 13. Average Bending length of fabric samples.
Bending Rigidity
1.55
1.51
1.45
1.42
1.13
1.06
1.05
1.03
Figure 13 depicts that overall bending length of P/C
blend is more than that of P/B blend as described
before that due to compression of layers by
increasing bamboo proportion, fabric becomes
thinner so bending rigidity decreases.
Antimicrobial Activity
One of the most important characteristic of bamboo
fiber is its inherent antimicrobial efficacy. The most
significant components in the bamboo’s chemical
constitution are those providing its extraordinary
fungal and bacterial resistance. The one responsible
for antibacterial properties is 2.6-bimethoxy-pbenzoquinone, called ‘Bambookun’. The highly
distinctive fungal resistance occurs due to a protein –
dendrocin.
Table VIII shows that there is a decrease in the
bending length of fabric with an increase in bamboo
and cotton fiber content in the P/B and P/C blended
fabrics.
As observed before there is a decrease in the
thickness of bamboo rich fabric due to which it offers
less resistance to bending. This may also be attributed
to the larger diameter of polyester fiber which
increases diameter of the yarn and increases the
bending length of polyester rich fabric.
Antimicrobial activity of P/B blended fabric samples
and 100% bamboo fiber was investigated using
qualitative analysis.
The same is the case with P/C blended fabric. An
increase in cotton proportion reduces bending length.
Here also by increasing cotton content, the diameter
of yarn decreases and hence fabric stiffness in the end
decreases. Also weak cohesion of fibers in cotton rich
fabric causes the fabric to bend more easily.
Comparison of bending length of different blends is
shown in the Figure 12.
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics
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Antibacterial characteristic of the samples was
evaluated using the standard test method for testing
of antibacterial activity and efficacy on textile
products: JIS L 1902-2008 against Staphylococcus
aureus and Escherichia coli, gram positive and gram
negative bacteria, respectively.
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• Air permeability of P/B and P/C blended fabric
increases by increasing bamboo and cotton fiber
content in the blend, while thermal resistance of
the fabric decreases with an increase in bamboo
and cotton fiber content in the blends.
• Moisture management capability of the P/B and
P/C blended fabrics was found to increase with
an increase in the proportion of bamboo and
cotton fiber content respectively.
• Enhanced air permeability and moisture
management property of P/B and P/C blended
fabrics entail excellent comfort properties and
fabric can be used as comfort apparel for summer.
• Bending length of the blended fabrics was found
to decrease with an increase in bamboo and
cotton fiber content providing another aspect to
the aesthetic and drape ability of the fabric.
• There was no antibacterial activity shown by any
of the P/B blend against any of the bacteria. But
there was some sort of activity shown by 100%
bamboo fiber against gram negative bacteria
(Escherichia coli). These results show that the
bamboo fiber used here do not possess effective
antimicrobial efficacy.
The 100% bamboo fiber test was performed using
absorbency method.
Findings of the test are as follows:
•
•
As far as P/B blended samples are concerned, no
antibacterial activity was shown by any of the
samples, even most bamboo rich fabric sample
(P/B 20/80) did not show any antibacterial
efficacy.
Results of 100% bamboo fiber are shown in the
Table IX.
TABLE IX. Results of antimicrobial activity.
Control
variable
Absorbency
Activity
(%)
Culture
Sample
E. coli
0.738
0.585
20.73
S. aureus
0.969
0.953
1.6
Table XI shows that little (negligible) activity is
shown by 100% bamboo fiber towards
Staphylococcus (gram positive bacteria) while the
efficacy of 100% bamboo fiber towards Escherichia
coli is far better than Staphylococcus aurous, but not
significant in terms of protection against bacteria and
microbes. This indicates that bamboo fiber will not
show any antibacterial activity if it is blended with
cotton or polyester. This may be due to the reason
that fiber used is not pure bamboo fiber rather it is a
manmade viscose obtained from bamboo cellulose
[7].
REFERENCES
[1]
[2]
CONCLUSION
• With an increase in bamboo fiber content in the
P/B fabric, generally there is increase in U% and,
imperfections and a decline in breaking force and
tenacity of the yarn with an increase in bamboo
fiber content.
• With an increase in cotton fiber content in the
P/C blend there is a considerable increase in
imperfections and general decrease in tenacity
and breaking force due to weak cohesion of
cotton fibers.
• By increasing the bamboo fiber content in P/B
blend, there is decrease in the bursting strength of
the fabric. Same is the case with P/C blended
fabric.
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics
Volume 10, Issue 2 – 2015
[3]
[4]
68
Das, S, "Properties of Bamboo Fiber," [Online].
Available:
http://www.fiber2fashion.com/industryarticle/textile-industry-articles/properties-ofbamboo-fiber/properties-of-bamboofiber1.asp. [Accessed April 4, 2013].
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[online]
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[5]
[6]
[7]
Tyagi, G, K, Bhattacharya, S, Kumar, P, "Hand
Related Properties of Polyester-Cotton and
Polyester-Viscose Ring and Mjs Yarn
Fabrics", Indian Journal of Fiber and Textile
Research, Vol. # 33, June 2008, pp. 126-131.
Das B, et al, “Moisture Flow through Blended
Fabrics-Effect of Hydrophobicity”, Journal
of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, Vol. 4(4),
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AUTHORS’ ADDRESSES
Uzair Hussain
Farhad Bin Younis
Faisal Usman
Tanveer Hussain
Faheem Ahmed
National Textile University
Yarn Manufacturing
Shiekhupura Road
Faisalabad, Punjab 35200
PAKISTAN
Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics
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