THESIS Submitted as a Partial Fulfilment of Requirenments for the Sarjana Sastra Degree of English Department Arranged by: GALUH LANIDA QORYVITA C 1306046

THE IMAGES OF MRS.O AS AMERICAN FIRST LADY REFLECTED BY HER FASHION STYLE

THESIS Submitted as a Partial Fulfilment of Requirenments

for the Sarjana Sastra Degree of English Department

Arranged by: GALUH LANIDA QORYVITA

C 1306046

ENGLISH DEPARTMENT FACULTY OF LETTERS AND FINE ARTS SEBELAS MARET UNIVERISTY 2011

Name

: Galuh Lanida Qoryvita

Number

: C1306046

The researcher states that this thesis entitled The Images of Mrs.O as American First Lady Reflected by Her Fashion Style is neither a plagiarism nor made by others. It is originally made by the researcher. All theories and materials taken from other sources are put in direct quotation and paraphrased citation. The researcher is fully responsible for the pronouncement and if this is proven to be wrong, the researcher is willing to take any responsible actions given by Faculty of Letters and Fine Arts, Sebelas Maret University.

Surakarta, June 28, 2011 The Researcher,

Galuh Lanida Qoryvita

A thankful heart is not only the greatest virtue, but the parent of all other virtues. (Cicero)

Powerful Dreams Inspire Powerful Action. (Jonathan Lockwood Huie)

If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything (anonymous)

If you have problems, commit your heart to solve them (the researcher)

I dedicated this thesis to:

♥ my beloved father and mother ♥ my family and my friends who support me

Alhamdulillahhirobbil’alamin Foremost, I would like to express my sincere gratitude to Allah SWT,

the one and the almighty for giving me the wonderful things and guidance in finishing this thesis. My gratitude also for all those who gave me a lot of contributions in completing this thesis, especially for:

1. Drs. Riyadi Santosa, M.Ed, Ph.D, The Dean of Faculty of Letters and Fine Arts, for the approval of this thesis.

2. Drs. Budi Waskito, M.Pd, The Head of English Department Non Regular program, for the approval and permition in writing this thesis.

3. Nani Sukarni, MS, The Thesis consultant, for giving me directions, advices, and support in finishing this thesis. Thanks for your patience mam, your guidance helped me in all the time of writing this thesis.

4. Ida Kusuma Dewi, S.S, M.A, The Academic Consultant, for advices and care.

5. All English Department Lecturers, for giving me lots of knowledges.

6. My parents, Mr. Hadi and Mrs.Yayuk, for giving birth to me and supporting

me spiritually during my life. You are the best partners in my life... I ♥ you!

7. My sister (Dini) and her family, for the support and for giving me a lovely niece, “the cutest Hasna”.

8. My big family, for being the part of my life.

9. Zaki and his family, for the attention. I owe to you! May Allah save you and your family...

encouraged me during my time. Thank you so much gals! I’m going to miss every single moment of us (karaoke with free pass, hang out with a glass of

ice tea and the annual birthday surprise!) I ♥ you all! 

11. My fellows in ED Non-Reg’06. Ludmi, Jiryan, Yudha “jegrik”, Yudha “pinky”, Oscar, Sayi, Adhitya, Reo, and Septian, for your tolerance, good humour, and insight added. Actually, I really don’t want to sever our

togetherness guys... 

12. My fellows in Senior High School. Asti, Fafa, Fatma, Ayu, Galih, Yudhan, Fikri, and Alif, for sharing your great experiences with me.

13. My Family of ED Non-Reg’06. Wibi, Agung, Ichwan, Kiki, Rosyid, Ulung, Richa, Rury, Ratna, Tika, Tychan, Endang, Mimah, Atun, Nova, Dewi, Berlin, Gunung, and others (sorry guys if I cannot mention your name one by one. It could make my hand be kinky if I do that. Hahah! The point is I ♥ u all ). I’m

going to miss our great time in getting “Buber” in my home!

Surakarta, June 2011

Galuh Lanida Qoryvita

3.1 MRS.O’S CONSTRUCTED IMAGES THROUGH HER FASHION STYLE

3.1.1 Cheerful and Comfy ……………………………………………… 61

3.1.2 Feminine ….……………………………………………………..… 70

3.1.3 Classic and Elegant ……………………………………………….. 86

3.1.4 Smart and Influential …………..…………………………………. 101

CHAPTER IV. CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATION

4.1 Conclusion ………………………………………………………………. 116

4.2 Recommendation ……………………………………………………….. 118

BIBLIOGRAPHY APPENDICES

Galuh Lanida Qoryvita. C1306046. 2011. The Images of Mrs.O as American

First Lady Reflected by Her Fashion Style. Undergraduate Thesis. Faculty of Letters and Fine Arts. Sebelas Maret University.

This research was conducted in order to find the images of Mrs.O as the first African-American First Lady. Related to her role as the US P resident’s spouse, specifically, this research aimed to find out how Mrs.O constructs her images to send the messages which lay behind her programs to American Society through her fashion style.

The research was conducted within the boundaries of American Studies. To gather the needed data, descriptive qualitative was used as the type of research. The

official websites:

http://firstladyofstyle.blogspot.com/ and http://mrs-o.org/ in the range time from November 2008 until August 2010. Then, the supporting data were taken from some additional information about the related topic such as books, websites, magazines, journals and articles.

As the method of data collection, the process is started by observing the pictures of Michelle Obama gained from the source of data of main data which are collected, then wrote down some important parts which related to the problem that will be analyzed. As the technique of analyzing data, the process is started by classifying the data from the main data which are collected, analyzing the data by using some theories and approaches, then explaining the data to get the result.

By using the recent data and knowledge about the images of Mrs.O as the American First Lady, it is found that Mrs.O’s constructed images are the crucial things in helping her to send the messages which lay behind her programs as American First Lady to the American society. It is because these constructed images give tremendous effect to Mrs.O in creating strategy to gain the public attention so that they understand what the messages behind her programs easily. The constructed images of American First Lady are the construction of stereotype which relates to th e society’s beliefs and values. Thus, it must be based on the cultural mindset in order to get recognition from the American society.

The principal conclusion was Mrs.O’s constructed style functions to help her in grabbing attention and sending the messages behind her programs to American society, so that she could invite and convey American society to help her in succeeding her programs.

ABSTRACT

2011. Thesis. Faculty of Letters and Fine Arts. Sebelas Maret University. This research was conducted in order to find the images of Mrs.O as the first African-American First Lady. Related to her role as the US P resident’s spouse, specifically, this research aimed to find out how Mrs.O constructs her images to send the messages which lay behind her programs to American Society through her fashion style. The research was conducted within the boundaries of American Studies. To gather the needed data, descriptive qualitative was used as the type of research. The main data were taken from official websites: http://firstladyofstyle.blogspot.com/ and http://mrs-o.org/ in the range time from November 2008 until August 2010. Then, the supporting data were taken from some additional information about the related topic such as books, websites, magazines, journals and articles. As the method of data collection, the process is started by observing the pictures of Michelle Obama gained from the source of data of main data which are collected, then wrote down some important parts which related to the problem that will be analyzed. As the technique of analyzing data, the process is started by classifying the data from the main data which are collected, analyzing the data by using some theories and approaches, then explaining the data to get the result. By using the recent data and knowledge about the images of Mrs.O as the American First Lady, it is found that Mrs.O’s constructed

1 Mahasiswa Jurusan Sastra Inggris dengan NIM C1306046 2 Dosen Pembimbing

programs easily. The constructed images of American First Lady are the construction of stereotype which relates to th e society’s beliefs and values. Thus, it must be based on the cultural mindset in order to get recognition from the American society. The principal conclusion was Mrs.O’s constructed style functions to help her in grabbing attention and sending the messages behind her programs to American society, so that she could invite and convey American society to help her in succeeding her programs.

INTRODUCTION

A. Background

Fashion is closely related to women’s life, and it seems to be an important thing because it is considered as the reflection of their identity. The role of women in the peresent day diverse to the role of women in the past; nowadays,

women are not purely spending their time just to ensure their home life, but also their economic feature, and how women view and value their bodies has changed over time. Women have multi-position; thus, they need efforts to adjust their environments, both home environment and working environment. Sukolo (a master of Fashion Design, CREAPOLE-ESDI, France) stated that women are more complex than men, they do many activities and variant tasks in their daily live. Thus, it makes their personality grow up and consequently they need proper style which is suitable with their multi-position (Sukolo, 2009, p.34). Living in this modern era, women are expected to be able to explore their individuality and looking attractive (Barker, 2000, p.314. Therefore, in conducting her role in this modern life, women still has a burden to be attractive.

America is one of modern and popular countries. Many issues happen in America could be something which is proper to discuss, and cannot be missed. One of the latest great issues is about the first African-American First Lady, Michelle Obama or usually called as Mrs.O. Since the inaugural ceremony of her husband, Barrack Obama as the 44 th President of the United States on January America is one of modern and popular countries. Many issues happen in America could be something which is proper to discuss, and cannot be missed. One of the latest great issues is about the first African-American First Lady, Michelle Obama or usually called as Mrs.O. Since the inaugural ceremony of her husband, Barrack Obama as the 44 th President of the United States on January

disciplinary.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/alisapaper.pdf accessed on Wednesday, March 3, 2010, 12:13 AM). Mrs.O has to devote her image as a black people or First lady. Whether she would be popular or not, it depends on her efforts in attracting public attention. Related to her fashion style as American First Lady, in comparison to the former First Lady, many people have compared her to Jackie Kennedy. Mihai (a Vancouver-based Human Resources Manager, management coach and

freelance writer) states “in all fairness, some of their fashion choices seem quite similar, which makes it entirely credible that Michelle may in fact be getting some

of her inspir ation from Jackie’s wardrobe” ( Mihai as cited in

http://www.suite101.com/content/michelle-obama-and-jackie-kennedy-a107751 accessed on Sunday, August 21, 2011, 08:10 PM). Constructing her fashion style as American First Lady, Mrs.O seems follow the way how Jackie constructs her fashion style, it can be seen from Mrs.O’s choices of style which seem quite

similar to Jackie Kennedy. Having great sense in fashion as the same the former First Ladies, such as Jackie Kennedy, surprisingly in the beginning of her debut as American First Lady, Mrs.O got the recognition from American fashion magazine, Vogue, which introduces her to be one of Vogue top 20 best dressed women of 2009 (http://www.glamourvanity.com/celebrities/vogue-names-20-best- similar to Jackie Kennedy. Having great sense in fashion as the same the former First Ladies, such as Jackie Kennedy, surprisingly in the beginning of her debut as American First Lady, Mrs.O got the recognition from American fashion magazine, Vogue, which introduces her to be one of Vogue top 20 best dressed women of 2009 (http://www.glamourvanity.com/celebrities/vogue-names-20-best-

Being American First Lady in the present day, everything about Mrs.O represents the modern life. She is post-feminist woman: she is clever, independently minded, and attractive (Vine in The Times as cited in http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/world/us_and_americas/us_elections/articl e5086230.ece accessed on Monday, August 21, 2011, 09:50 PM). Therefore, in conducting her roles, Mrs.O is expected to have good performance, good intelligence and good manner because she has a burden to be a representation of the president, American society, and country. Labeled as African-American First Lady, consequently she is going to be an American outlook because her life closes to the public and everything which is linked with her life will be nice issue to discuss; therefore to face the public and gain their attention, Mrs.O is expected to

be attractive. Attractiveness can be constructed by physical appearance, such as fashion style. Fashion itself functions to gain public image which actually has an important role in constructing certain identity that attracts others. Moreover, fashion has a contribution to send messages in the society, as what Barnard stated that intuitively fashion and clothes can illustrate that people want to send their message (Barnard, p.42). Mrs.O is the example of women who uses her fashion be attractive. Attractiveness can be constructed by physical appearance, such as fashion style. Fashion itself functions to gain public image which actually has an important role in constructing certain identity that attracts others. Moreover, fashion has a contribution to send messages in the society, as what Barnard stated that intuitively fashion and clothes can illustrate that people want to send their message (Barnard, p.42). Mrs.O is the example of women who uses her fashion

Related to the strategy in helping American society to understand about what messages inside her programs easily, Mrs.O uses her attractiveness and her images which are constructed by her fashion style to send those messages. In revealing and succeding her significant programs, Mrs.O tries to alter her constructed images to be the strategy to send messages which lay behind her programs to American society. In other words, Mrs.O tries to use her attractiveness as African-American First Lady to grab public attention and her images to send the messages of her programs to American society so that the programs could run well. From this condition, the main question around is could Mrs.O’s constructed images which are reflected by her fashion style represent her

messages?

In summary, it can be said that the relation between women, fashion and image is close. Therefore, the researcher wants to describe the constructed images of Mrs.O as the first African-American First Lady related to her role in succeeding her programs to American society through her fashion style. Mrs.O is able to get recognition because her fashion sense is able to construct her image to

be an attractive African-American First Lady like the former White-American First Ladies. By her appearance, it seems that Mrs.O has got her success in constructing her images to represent her messages and conveying American

fashion style to represent her messages and her attractiveness as the African- American First Lady. B y analyzing Mrs.O’s images, it opens our understanding on how fashion works in constructing images which function to send messages and how fashion could build attractiveness to grab public attention. The researcher believes that by combining Mrs.O with her fashion style, it will reveal the construction of Mrs.O images as African-American First Lady which function to send messages behind her programs to American society. In other words, it can be said that this research is interesting to analyze because it was talking about the African- American First Lady’s fashion style which function to construct her images to send messages in the society and her attractiveness as the same as the former White-American First Ladies to grab public attention.

B. Scope of the study

In accordance with the theme of the study, this research is focused on the main object of the study of American fashion style. The goal of this research is to find out how Mrs.O ’s images as American First Lady are constructed through her fashion style to send the messages which lay behind her programs. In other words, the study was only exploring about the images of Mrs.O as the first African- American First Lady which are constructed by her fashion style as what described through some pictures in http://firstladyofstyle.blogspot.com/ and http://mrs- o.org/.

1. What images and messages does Mrs.O want to show as American First Lady through her fashion style?

D. Objective

The objective of the research was to find out the images and messages of Mrs.O as the first African-American First Lady which are reflected by her fashion style.

E. Research Significance

From the topic above, the main purpose of this research are:

1. Theoretical purpose In theory, this research has purpose to build the reader outlook up in giving images to Mrs.O as American First Lady through her fashion style.

2. Practical Purpose This research has purpose to attract people interest toward fashion which is brought by African-American First Lady, the historic American First Lady and the new American Fashion Icon.

F. Research Methodology

1. Research Type and Design

This research was descriptive-qualitative research. It is a type of research

1998, p.63). Qualitative research is related to verbal data, not quantitative, statistic, or numeral data (ibid). It is stressed on the meaning, definition of certain situation (certain context), and more concern in examining something which related to daily activities.

This research used qualitative method because it relates to verbal data, not the quantitative, statistic or numeral data. This research was also a library research because in the technique of collecting data, the main data were collected from the online magazines, official website, journals and articles. After collecting the data, the researcher wrote down the significant evidences, quotations, important ideas, that were found from those data.

The next step is selecting the data; it was based on the problem statement which was analyzed by applying the theories and approaches that were used in this research.

2. Data and Source of Data

In this research, there are two kinds of data which can be obtained to support the analysis, the main data and the supporting data. As the main data of this research, it can be obtained mostly from the pictures of Mrs.O in some official websites: http://firstladyofstyle.blogspot.com/ and http://mrs-o.org/. Considering those main data concern about Michelle Obama and her fashion, thus the researcher could find many facts about the images of Mrs.O as American First In this research, there are two kinds of data which can be obtained to support the analysis, the main data and the supporting data. As the main data of this research, it can be obtained mostly from the pictures of Mrs.O in some official websites: http://firstladyofstyle.blogspot.com/ and http://mrs-o.org/. Considering those main data concern about Michelle Obama and her fashion, thus the researcher could find many facts about the images of Mrs.O as American First

Supporting data is analyzed to support the main data and obtain the facts about Mrs.O’s fashion style. It is collected from some official websites about fashion. In this research, as the supporting data, the researcher took some additional information about the related topic, included some techniques and some terms from books, websites, magazines, journals and articles to support the analysis.

3. Population and Sample

Population is the whole object to be investigated, Hadi stated that population is the whole things which have the same characteristic (Hadi, 1989, p.75). Based on this statement, population can be meant as the object of the research; the whole things which have the same characteristic as the basic to draw

a conclusion. Population of this research are some official websites of Michelle’s fashion style.

Sample is a part of population which functions to be an example or master which is taken in certain way (certain technique), and should be representative. Arikunto stated that

Sampel adalah sebagian atau wakil dari keseluruhan objek yang diteliti. Pengambilan sampel harus dilaksanakan sedemikian rupa sehingga diperoleh sampel yang benar-benar dapat berfungsi sebagai contoh, atau dengan kata lain sampel harus representatif (Arikunto, 1988, p.23).

Based on sample explanation above, the researcher took the pictures of Michelle Based on sample explanation above, the researcher took the pictures of Michelle

4. Method of Data Collection

This method of data collection took something or someone to be the data of the research. Hadi (1989, p.66) stated that the technique of data collection is the techniques which are used to collect data in the research.

As the method of data collection, the researcher observed the main data and the supporting data, which are mostly from official websites, books, articles, and journals. It is started by observing the pictures of Mrs.O gained from the main data which are collected, then write down some important parts which related to the problem that will be analyzed.

5. Technique of Analyzing data

In analyzing the data, the problem statement will be analyzed through these steps:

1. Classification of the data In this step, the data of research are collected and classified based on the problem statement which was conducted.

2. Analyzing the data In this step, several theories and approaches are applied to analyze the data.

In this step, the results of analysis are explained to get the result of the research. Those steps above function to find the images of Mrs.O which are build by her fashion style to send the messages which lay behind her programs as the American First Lady.

G. Theoretical Approach

This research is focused on American studies, which means that this research uses American studies as the structure. It becomes the effort to view any given subject of investigation from an interdisciplinary perspective of American experiences, including social, political, historical, and cultural dimensions of the United States. It is also a study about culture; culture itself means a pattern of society life, which becomes knowledge about attitude in our life.

The topic of this research is analyzing the images of Mrs.O in Popular Culture. Popular Culture itself is the products of human work and thought that are accepted and approved by a large community or population (Nachbar&Lause, 1992, p.14). What can be mentioned as popular product is not merely the product which is popular in the present time, but also popular in certain time in past.

Mrs.O’s images embody the Americans beliefs and values; therefore, she belongs to the product of popular culture.

Nowadays, Fashion seems impossible to be ignored. Fashion is one of essential components in this global popular culture where we live. Fashion is well Nowadays, Fashion seems impossible to be ignored. Fashion is one of essential components in this global popular culture where we live. Fashion is well

Fashion can build image, through fashion people can illustrate their identities from what they wore and how they construct their style. In connection to this topic, since the data of the research are mostly in the form of pictures which contain of color system and sign which functions to communicate the ideas by means of message, therefore semiotics theory was needed to analyze and understand every kind of those signs.

Semiotic approach is a tool which is used to analyze the data. The term Semiotic comes from Greece language, seme in Semeiotikos which means the interpretation of sign. Sign do many more things than merely refer, we briefly examined a few common situations in which sign are used, and saw that in some of these the referential functions is not even necessarily an important part of what the sign does (Thwaites and Davis, 1994, p.25). In this research, semiotics theory was applied in order to make an understanding about every sign occur in Mrs.O’s fashion style so that it could find out the images of Mrs.O as the African- American First Lady and messages which lay behind her fashion style.

Socio-Culture is the actions chosen to show people’s identity. It could be Socio-Culture is the actions chosen to show people’s identity. It could be

Socio-cultural approach is also needed in conducting this research since the main topic is about images which function to send messages in the society. Here, fashion and image have great influence toward American society; fashion has shaped the way of thinking about image and its influence to the American society. In this research the socio-cultural approach is applied in order to explore the great influence of the first African- American First Lady’s fashion style toward American society related to her strategy in sending messages behind her programs she planned as American First Lady

Talking about women and her role in the society, it cannot be separated from gender issue and post-feminism which has given many contributions to the life of women today. Adriaens (a researcher at the Department of Communication Studies at Ghent University ) states

“Post feminism is a new form of empowerment and independence, individual choice, (sexual) pleasure, consumer culture, fashion, hybridism, humor, and the renewed focus on the female body can be considered fundamental for this

cited in http://www.politicsandculture.org/2009/11/09/post-feminism-in-popular- culture-a-potential-for-critical-resistance/ accessed on Monday, August 21, 2011, 09:21 PM).

So it is clearly seen that nowadays feminism is over; it seems unneeded because women’s equality has been achieved. Feminism changed to be post-feminism

which can be defined as the freedom of women in selecting their choice which significantly has ability to satisfy themselves. Post-feminism has brought women to be equal to men and independence. Women today have more choice than men, they also have right to choose their own choice without any restrictions from others. In other words, Post-Feminism expects women to be able to define themselves as individuals.

Post-feminism theoretical framework will be used to analyze this research since this research talked about female identity as represented in her role as the modern women which focused on individualism, choice and empowerment. This research aims to analyze the role of Mrs.O as First Lady in American culture, how she lives and interact within society. In other words, this research analyzes how Mrs.O places herself in both femininity and masculinity to represent the modern life and conduct her role as American First Lady. Therefore, post- feminism that provides many issues about women today is needed to be the point of view.

The thesis is organized into four subsequent chapters, outlined as follows

Chapter I : Introduction which provides research background, scope of the

study, problem statement, objective, research significance, research methodology, theoretical approach, and thesis organization.

Chapter II : Literature Review which consists of popular culture; Michelle

Obama; American First Lady; Fashion, Image and Women; Semiotics Theory.

Chapter III : Analysis which consists of the meaning of sign in Mrs.O’s

fashion style which lead to her images as American First Lady. The next thing is that the correlation between her constructed images and her role as president’s spouse in sending messages to

American Society to succeed her own programs.

Chapter IV : Conclusion and Recommendation

LITERATURE REVIEW

A. POPULAR CULTURE

1. The Basic Concept of Popular Culture

Popular simply refers to that which is (or has been) accepted or approved of by large numbers of people (Nachbar and Lause, 1992, p.10); while culture can be defined as “whole way of life”. Williams argued that we need to be able to talk to people, to entertain and be entertained, to enjoy all kinds of diversions and distractions, to work at something we find meaningful, to meet together with other people. In short, culture is the “whole way of life” (Williams, 1997, in Brummett, 2 nd , p.25). Therefore, popular culture could be meant as the products of human work and thought which are (or have been) accepted and approved of by a large community or population (Nachbar and Lause, 1992, p.14). In other words, popular culture can be defined as the product of culture (anything

which comes from human‟s work and thought) which is popular and accepted by large number of people.

Popular culture can provide the reflection necessary to expose and highlight our cultural beliefs and values (ibid, p.9). Popular Culture includes far more than the popular arts; it also encompasses icons, heroes, stereotypes, rituals, and, most importantly, the beliefs and values of the masses (ibid, p.33). The study of popular culture is a quest for meaning, not merely facts or nostalgia or entertainment (ibid, p.6). There are some characteristics of popular culture, they Popular culture can provide the reflection necessary to expose and highlight our cultural beliefs and values (ibid, p.9). Popular Culture includes far more than the popular arts; it also encompasses icons, heroes, stereotypes, rituals, and, most importantly, the beliefs and values of the masses (ibid, p.33). The study of popular culture is a quest for meaning, not merely facts or nostalgia or entertainment (ibid, p.6). There are some characteristics of popular culture, they

b. Reflects audience‟s beliefs and values

c. Shapes audience beliefs and values

d. Is commercial

e. Is often imitative (of itself)

f. Surround us – it forms the fabric of our everyday life.

B. ALL ABOUT MICHELLE OBAMA

Michelle LaVaughn Robinson Obama is the mother of two kids Malia and Sasha, lawyer, or public servant. She was born on January 17, 1964. (http://www.squidoo.com/michelle-obama-fashions accessed on Sunday, October

31, 2010, 2:39 PM). Michelle's family, the Robinsons, lived in a brick bungalow on the South Side of Chicago. Her father was a pump operator for the Chicago Water Department and her mother was a housewife who stayed home to raise Michelle and her brother, Craig, skillfully managing a busy household filled with love, laughter, and important life lessons (ibid).

Mrs. Obama is the product of Chicago public schools, she studied sociology and African-American studies at Princeton University. After graduating from Harvard Law School in 1988, she joined the Chicago law firm Sidley & Austin, where she later met the man who would become her husband. After a few years, Mrs.Obama decided to work with the people to serve the communities and the neighbors. She served as assistant commissioner of planning and development in Chicago's City Hall before becoming the founding executive director of the Chicago chapter of Public Allies, an AmeriCorps program that prepares youth for Mrs. Obama is the product of Chicago public schools, she studied sociology and African-American studies at Princeton University. After graduating from Harvard Law School in 1988, she joined the Chicago law firm Sidley & Austin, where she later met the man who would become her husband. After a few years, Mrs.Obama decided to work with the people to serve the communities and the neighbors. She served as assistant commissioner of planning and development in Chicago's City Hall before becoming the founding executive director of the Chicago chapter of Public Allies, an AmeriCorps program that prepares youth for

C. AMERICAN FIRST LADY

1. The Basic Concept of American First Lady

As the leader of a country, President needs someone to be his official hostess, Anthony (the writer of publication in some newspapers) stated that First Lady is the unofficial title given to the wives of American presidents, or to the female relatives whom single or widowed presidents designated to serve as their hostesses

(http://topics.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/07/14/first-ladies-a-short-

history/#more-88 accessed on January 13, 2011, 12:31 PM). Traditionally, President will chose his wife to be the right partner to serve as the official hostess in The White House, as what Ingram (1998-1999, p.487) stated that

“throughout American history, every president has needed someone to serve as his official hostess for state functions. In most cases, this person was the president‟s wife, although unmarried President called upon family members or friends

role ” (http://heinonline.org/HOL/LandingPage?collection=journals&handle=hein.jou rnals/capulr27&div=28&id=&page= accessed on Tuesday, November, 16, 2010, 10:18 AM).

symbolic. She is expected to represent an ideal and largely mythical concept of American womanhood (Clinton, 2003, p.119). In conducting her role, First Lady is expected does not only focus on her responsibilities as p resident‟s spouse to be The White House hostess but also her family life. Kuptz (2003) stated that most people agree in that First lady should be a supportive and caring wife and mother and serve as a White House hostess (http://www.grin.com/e-book/23250/the- political-role-of-the-first-lady-in-the-twentieth-century accessed on accessed on Saturday, September 4, 2010, 1:10 AM). For most of the next half-century, the main role of First Lady was to be the White House hostess not only for private guests, but also for the general public at open house receptions (Anthony in http://topics.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/07/14/first-ladies-a-short-history/#more-88 accessed on January 13, 2011, 12:31 PM). As p resident‟s spouse, First Lady has responsibilities to manage the White House life and diplomatic events which oblige her to be a good hostess. Nowadays, First Lady seems enlarge her role in the public area, Kenigsberg (the staff writer of America.gov) pointed out that

Presidential spouses have traditionally been expected to be the country‟s social hostess, working to organize White House functions and diplomatic events. In recent years, however, first ladies have taken a more public role in developing policy and pursuing their own initiatives (http://www.america.gov/st/usg- english/2009/June/20090629092010degrebsginek0.475445.html accessed on Monday, November 15, 2010, 3:01 PM).

Conducting her role as First Lady in The White House, she will have a special and valuable project about soft issues, such as health or art or gardening projects (Healy, 1988, p.xvi). However, nowadays first lady does not only take a role in Conducting her role as First Lady in The White House, she will have a special and valuable project about soft issues, such as health or art or gardening projects (Healy, 1988, p.xvi). However, nowadays first lady does not only take a role in

a great

woman

(http://mrs-o.org/newdata/2008/12/24/laurie-munns-first-

ladies.html accessed on Friday, August 13, 2010, 9:28 PM). Besides, Bronk (the staff writer of America.gov) stated that the role of first lady is an unelected, unpaid position without constitutional responsibilities. But the first lady, who acts as

highly influential (http://www.america.gov/st/elections08- english/2008/July/20080710170543xkknorb0.3995935.html accessed on Monday, November 15, 2010, 3:01 PM). It means that being the person closest to the most powerful man in the U.S, First Lady can apply her important influence on her husband. It is almost the same as Anthony stated that

the role of the first lady, the U.S. president‟s spouse, has evolved from fashion trendsetter and hostess of White House dinners to a more substantive position.

While there have been diverging views on the roles of women in society, the first lady is still a role model for American women. One of the highest-profile jobs in the U.S. government comes with no official duties, no paycheck, and almost limitless possibilities. The first lady can influence the president and can even exercise a degree of political power over policy and legislation (http://www.america.gov/st/usg- english/2008/September/20080926162204naneerg0.8945886.html accessed on Monday, November 15, 2010, 2:25 PM).

The role of First Lady today is not only becomes the White House hostess and fashion trendsetter, but also becomes more multifaceted. Although conducting her role without paycheck and many possibilities, but she has great influence on her husband, The President of U.S. Being First Lady, consequently her fashion style

that in the past century, the first lady always has borne the brunt of the public's clothing fascination (The Washington Post, 1997, p.F05). There is no doubt that being the first family, what they are doing, saying, and wearing will be the public attention (Healy, 1988, p.xv), Moore (Fashion critic) stated that what they have worn on their activities has been chronicled in newspapers and magazines and, later, on TV (Moore in Los Angeles Times as cited in http://www.latimes.com/features/image/la-ig-firstladies18- 2009jan18,0,7647191.story accessed on January 13, 2011, 12:31 PM). The journalists, of course, is just doing what it has to do, which is to tell the public what it wants to know (Healy, 1988, xv). It is clear that as the president‟s spouse, consequently her life closes to the media. What her family is doing, saying, and wearing will be nice issue to discuss and publish. As well as functions to be The White House hostess, First Lady also becomes a figure for American women, especially fashion figure. Facing the public, First lady should give the impression of being great, especially in her fashion style. Most Americans don't want to look their president and first lady appear like their next door neighbors (Givhan in The Washington Post, 1997, p.F05). Although First Lady has right to decide the way how to construct her fashion, but she should consider about the public respect, Burt states "It sets a tone for herself and for the country and for what the country can expect” (ibid). She cannot close her eyes to decide on the way how to dress;

the way she interacts, stands, speaks and dresses combine to express the detail of the woman, the administration and the people she represents (ibid). Thus First

between fashion and elegance without being gauche in their spending. First ladies are very aware of that possibility of selecting a dress that's too lavish and expensive for a democracy" (ibid). Mallis (the creative inspiration behind New York's Fashion Week) says "most first ladies have always been on a pedestal of expensive, elegant clothing, of couture evening gowns. It's something that people can't really relate to" (http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f50/michelle-obama- august-2008-march-2010-a-71565-216.html accessed on Friday, December 03, 2010, 9:47 AM).

2. The Most Fashionable First Ladies

Period by period, American First Ladies have their own way in constructing their personality through fashion. They have their own style to build their image because it could make them confidence in herself, Willingham (First Lady Style Examiner) stated that,

Throughout the centuries, the first ladies have had various different styles and fashion tastes which embodied each woman‟s personality. one may have favored the trendy styles of bargain retailers, while another preferred the elegant fashions of French designers. Although each first lady had different fashion sense, one color can unify them all and almost even capture the essence of who the first lady is and should aspire to be – demure, yet bold in her beliefs and meek, yet self-confident. In whatever she does, it is vital that the first lady

be confident

the president. (http://www.examiner.com/first-lady-style-in-national/first-lady-style-and- fashion-the-lady-red accessed on Monday, February 15, 2010, 12:09 AM).

Historically, there were some fashionable White-American First Ladies who were able to build their image to be an attractive First Lady and be popular through their fashion, they are:

Dolley Payne Todd Madison was the American First Lady who had an ability to impress the public through her balancing style between queen and commoner. “She dressed like royalty and yet was accessible to the people, not at all snobbish.” To show off her figure, she prefers to choose low-cut gowns made of delicate fabrics. (Anthony, an author of the two- volume book “First Ladies ”

http://lifestyle.msn.com/your-look/everyday- style/staticslideshow.aspx?cp-documentid=8993451 accessed on Saturday, July

30, 2011, 12:24 PM).

b. Mary Lincoln (1861–1865)

Mary Todd Lincoln believed that looking elegant was important. Anthony states “She often talked about how important it was for her to dress in a way that would transmit the image of the Union ‟s success”. Unfortunately, her love in fashion brought her to be more an eye for fashion than a brain for saving money ( Anthony as cited in http://lifestyle.msn.com/your-look/everyday- style/staticslideshow.aspx?cp-documentid=8993451 accessed on Saturday, July

30, 2011, 12:24 PM).

c. Frances Cleveland (1886–1889 and 1893–1897)

The lovely Frances Folsom Cleveland became the youngest First Lady ever and woman to get married in the White House when she was 21th. Known as Frank, she was popular because she was brave enough to show off her youth by wearing low-cut and shoulder-bearing gowns. Consequently, Her desire in

Christian Temperance Union advice her to wear more modest clothing.

d. Florence Harding (1921–1923)

Florence Kling Harding was in her 60s when her husband was elected to be the President of U.S, but she avoided any suggestion to be old-fashioned in dressing. She embraced the brave fashions of the day, adding her own chic to every outfit. She dressed herself in flapper style and shiny flecks, and was the fi rst First Lady photographed wearing pants. “She was an older woman with gray hair and glasses, but her appearance was kind of eye-popping

nevertheless. Wherever she went, people noticed her,” Anthony says. “She wasn‟t a young flapper, but in many ways she embodied that vibe.” Her trademark accessory was a black velvet neckband with a diamond on it.

e. Grace Coolidge (1923–1929)

During a moment in history when women were starting to enter professional sports and female athletics were becoming more popular, First Lady Grace Goodhue Coolidge served as a model of sporty modishness. She favored bright colors, especially red and casual clothing such as culottes and riding pants. She maintained a kind of casual elegance in formal wear as well. For her White House portrait, Coolidge chose to wear a slim red sheath dress that showed off her lean arms and her undeniable sense of style.

Mamie Doud Eisenhower was “this kind of bubbly Midwestern hyper-stylized version of June Cleaver,” says Anthony. “She was extraordinarily popular.” Although often overshadowed by her immediate successor (the inimitable Mrs. Kennedy) and frequently criticized for her unflattering short bangs, Eisenhower made all the best-dressed lists of her day, and got particular attention for her wonderful collection of hats. She never missed an opportunity to don dresses in pink, her favorite color. Some credit her for making pink one of the most popular clothing and paint colors of the 1950s.

g. Jackie Kennedy (1961–1963)

Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy was the greatest style icon. This fashion doy enne defined an era and influenced the wardrobes of women throughout the world. A

gifted drawer, she designed most of her clothing herself. “She often worked with Oleg Cassini, and he en couraged her original ideas,” Anthony says. “Her

style was rooted in substance. Some of her designs are based on ideas she got from ancient Egyptian and Greek friezes.” She‟s best known for her clean

solid-color suits, arm-bearing shift dresses, and pillbox hats. Designers copied her, stores used mannequins that resembled her, and the world embraced her as the epitome of fresh style and understated glamour. She was nationally and globally respected as American royalty, charming the world during the early „60s as the young, glamorous, dignified (Jacobs in http://www.savvy-women-

Tuesday, December 22, 2009, 1:20 AM).

h. Betty Ford (1974–1977)

A strong-willed former dancer and model, Betty Bloomer Ford is best known stylistically for her eye-popping scarves. But her true legacy as a First Lady fashionista had to do with what the clothes were covering up. Anthony

explains: “She had breast cancer and a mastectomy while in the White House, and was one of the first people to openly talk about breast cancer. After the

surgery she wore a prosthesis that helped people realize that surgery didn‟t mean disfigurement. She still looked great. Her narrow, low-cut outfits spoke

for themselves.”

i. Nancy Reagan (1981–1989)

Nancy Davis Regan had a long career in Hollywood before she entered the political realm, and the result was a wardrobe that looked a little more Hollywood than Washington. When she moved into the White House, the wraithlike former actress brought with her a sizable collection of suits and gowns by the likes of Oscar de la Renta and Adolpho, an inaugural gown worth over $10,000 and two hairdressers. But her devotion to designer duds got her into trouble: She accepted hundreds of thousands of dollars in free clothing from designers despite the fact that the president and his wife are not allowed to take such gifts unless they pay taxes on them. The incident resulted in a kafuffle with the IRS and nationwide talk about the glamorous First Lady who Nancy Davis Regan had a long career in Hollywood before she entered the political realm, and the result was a wardrobe that looked a little more Hollywood than Washington. When she moved into the White House, the wraithlike former actress brought with her a sizable collection of suits and gowns by the likes of Oscar de la Renta and Adolpho, an inaugural gown worth over $10,000 and two hairdressers. But her devotion to designer duds got her into trouble: She accepted hundreds of thousands of dollars in free clothing from designers despite the fact that the president and his wife are not allowed to take such gifts unless they pay taxes on them. The incident resulted in a kafuffle with the IRS and nationwide talk about the glamorous First Lady who

3. Michelle Obama as American First Lady