35 and a deeply eroded volcanic cone. The erosion caldera is more than 1000 feet deep and 2
miles wide…On the gently sloping flanks of the volcano deep gullies separated by sharp ridges extend radially outwards from the summit area…The highest part of the complex is on
the southern rim of the caldera [5035 feet1535 meters].
Billy Mitchell Volcanics
The Billy Mitchell Volcanics comprise both the rocks which were erupted from the extinct Billy Mitchell Volcano and the fan deposits derived by erosion of the eruptive rocks.
The formation covers an area of about 80 square miles in central Bougainville and consists of pumice, tuff, agglomerate, and sand…
The Billy Mitchell Volcanics have a maximum thickness of about 5000 feet…The highest and steepest parts of the volcano are covered with kunai grass and scattered trees,
while tropical rain forest covers the lower flanks. In the centre of the volcano Lake Billy Mitchell occupies a well formed crater 1.5 miles in diameter. A small island occurs near the
southern shore of the lake. The highest point on the rim of the crater is 5028 feet [1533 meters], and the water level of the lake is at about 3500 feet [1067 meters]: the maximum
depth of water in the lake is not known. The eastern flank of the volcano descends smoothly for 14 miles to the sea, but the other sides have rough irregular surfaces and are much less
extensive Blake, et al. 1967: 25–26].
In 1973, during the PNG Defense Force’s presence in the Rotokas area, an exercise was planned which would take the men near Lake Billy Mitchell and on to Panguna along the top of the Crown Prince range.
Guides were chosen from Lesiopaia and Beteriopaia to help the troops over the first part of the trail. As the men neared the lake, the guides started to desert and eventually, the men were left to themselves to
find their way through this very dense forested area. A senior officer, who observed the men from his plane each day, told us that at times they were unable to make even four kilometers a day. The men eventually
finished the exercise at Panguna, but without the help of the guides. It turned out later that the guides had been worried about spirit beings believed to be present in the area of Lake Billy Mitchell.
2.2.2 Rivers and waterfalls
There are three major river systems within the Rotokas language area: Wakunai river Rotokas Proper dialect area, Red river Pipipaia dialect area, and Aita river Aita dialect area. [For dialect differences see
section 10.4.1.]
Aita River
Of the three rivers named above, the Aita river is most well known for its powerful, swift current, especially where it crosses the main road on the coast. It is not uncommon for cars andor trucks to be caught
in its current at the ford and swept downstream. One particularly large truck, owned by a Teop business man, was overturned when the driver attempted to cross the Aita river while it was at flood stage. It was reported
that K3000 along with tradestore goods were lost. The driver and owner were both fortunate to escape alive.
Red River
The Red River, which originates high on the eastern flank of Mt. Balbi, is known for its rust-like color which stains the rocks in the river’s bed. The river water is known for being corrosive and the people report
that metal cooking pots washed in the water are quick to erode.
Wakunai River
The Wakunai river valley is the largest of the three. The construction of the twenty-four kilometer road from the coast inland has stimulated interest in planting cocoa and has resulted in villagers resettling near the
road. Timber was being logged commercially for export overseas a few kilometers inland from the coastal road, but it was discontinued because of a land dispute. At one time, the government was considering building
a large hydroelectric generator several kilometers inland from the coastal road, but this was not followed through for various reasons.
36 The Uruavi River and other tributaries join the Wakunai River from both sides of this valley, the largest
coming from the southern slopes of Mt. Balbi, Mt. Bagana, Billy Mitchell and NumaNuma Volcanics. All provide the runoff which maintains this clear, swift flowing river.
The following are descriptions of waterfalls located in the area populated by the speakers of the Rotokas Proper dialect. Unfortunately, I am not familiar with the many waterfalls to be found in the other two dialect
areas:
Ivaru Vagapa waterfall
The first three waterfalls are ephemeral in that they are seen flowing only after very heavy rains. The Ivaru waterfall is very high and descends in two parts. It appears on the eastern slope of Mt. Balbi, on the southern-
most dome which looms above Togarao village. If observed in the evening, the waterfall will have disappeared by the next morning.
Urivaritete Vagapa waterfall
This is another ephemeral fall and is located parallel to the Ivaru waterfall as seen in the illustration below. It also flows only briefly after a period of heavy rainfall. The name means “limbum roller.”
Sesevi Vagapa waterfall
This is the third of the three ephemeral waterfalls located on the southeastern slope of Mt. Balbi. It is a long waterfall which can be seen flowing between the twin peaks of the dome mentioned above. Once again, it
is dependent upon very heavy rainfall and lasts only briefly. In the past, the Rotokas would hunt in this general area, high on the slopes of Mt. Balbi, for pig and
opossum. The hunting for special feasts is normally done lower down at this time.
Eastern slope of southernmost dome – Mt. Balbi Ivitu Vagapa waterfall
This high waterfall, located behind the village of Togarao, falls through a narrow gap in the cliff face and hits a ledge about five to seven meters from the top. Shooting out from that point, it falls free to a large pool
below. The total height of the fall is 68.7 meters. At one time, the Provincial Government was seriously considering installing a hydroelectric generator at the base of the fall. The equipment was reportedly ordered
from Japan, but the project was discontinued for lack of funds.
37 In the same gorge, a short distance downstream from the base of the taller waterfall is another fall about
four to five meters in height. Its source is a small stream which has a hot spring located in its course, not far from the head of the waterfall. Evidence of mineral springs can be seen around the perimeter of the pool into
which the water falls.
Rovuvi Vagapa waterfall
This slight waterfall is very high, measuring approximately fifty-five to sixty meters in length. It is located at the head of a small gorge to the west of Ruruvu village about an hour and forty minutes’ walk from Togarao
village. The source is small and during drier weather very little water comes over the top of the rock ledge. However, after a good rain the water gushes over and falls unobstructed. The stream, which continues on from
the base of this fall, is named Kiikii ovi.
Ivitu Vagapa behind Togarao Village Taataavire Vagapa waterfall
Widest of the falls described so far, the Taataavire Vagapa is located on the Uruavi river, one of the main rivers flowing into the Wakunai valley. The fall is located below the village of Ruruvu and is the terminal point
for fish of any size coming upstream from the coast. The waterfall is approximately thirty minutes’ walking time from Ruruvu. While there, I saw several large fish speared in the pool below the fall.
Pauovi Vagapa waterfall
This beautiful waterfall is a combination of two consecutive falls and is located below the village of Sisivi to the east. They fall a total of one hundred meters. A young Rotokas woman, while collecting freshwater
snails, was swept over the top and killed in the early 1980s. Many spectacular waterfalls can be seen from the air while flying over the Rotokas area. The preceding
are only a sample of some which we have seen from the ground.
38
2.2.3 Caves Kovava Cave
