Background information of Respondents : Majority of the respondents in

4. Description of Ornaments worn by Males The documented ornaments worn by male respondents through last ten decades have been depicted in Fig. 1 on next page. The ornaments worn fall in following categories : 4.1 Head Ornaments u Sarpesh : the jewelled aigrette worn in front of the turban. u Kutbiladar : an oval pendant worn over the forehead. u Kalgi : a plume in jeweled setting. u Mukat : a head dress worn by Hindus at wedding. u Turah or marwarid : tassels of pearls worn on the turban. 4.2 Ear Ornaments u Bala : very large ring worn by Khatris, Sikhs and Dogras, they have a pearl strung on the gold wire of which they are made. u Murki : smaller earrings of the same shape. u Dur : a small earring with three studs. u Birbali : a broad earring with three studs. u Durichah : an ear-ring with pendant tassel. 4.3 Neck Ornaments u Mala : a necklace of large beads handing down long and loose. u Kantha : this fits rather close to the neck, the pendant may be omitted. u Nam : a pendent, round or star shaped. u Tawiz : a square amulet, jeweled or otherwise. u Takhti : a flat square plate engraved with figures, etc. u Chandarmah : a large gold flat medal suspended by a single ring. u Zanjiri : a set of chains. 4.4 Arm Ornaments u Ponchi : a series of strings of shells or small gold elongated beads worn on the wrist. u Bazuband : a broad belt-like ornament generally mounted on silk and tied on the upper arm. u Taviz : an amulet worn on the upper arm. 4 M. Khullar, S. Bains and N. Grewal u Kara or Gokru : a bracelet of stiff metal, when the edges are serrated, it is called gokru. 4.5 Finger Ornaments u Challa : a plain hoop or whole hoop ring, with or without stones, being of gold or silver, but the same all round, challas are worn on the toe also. u Angutha : a big ring with a broad face worn on the toe. u Anguthi : a ring set with stones also called mundri. u Birhamgand : broad ring. 5. Findings The findings of this study are presented in following sub-heads : 5.1 Costume Accessories Ornaments Information The details of the ornaments adorn on different body parts and the information regarding the type, designs and metals preferred for ornaments by the three generations of respondents has been discussed below : 5.1.1 Head ornaments Table-1 below elicits that these ornaments were worn only during formal occasions like on marriages or functions. The majority of the male respondents 53.33 in the 1 st generation during their marriage wore each kalgi and turahmarwarid . In the 2 nd generation, majority of the respondents 56.66 adorned Kalgi followed by 16.66 who wore sehra on their marriages, whereas in the 3 rd generation, good number 28.33 of the respondents wore Kalgi followed by 5.00 who wore mukat as head ornament. As a result, a marked change in the use of head ornaments by all the three generations of the males differs significantly. Table-1 : Details of Ornaments worn by the Respondents on different Body Parts n=60 each generation Ornament Category Generation Head ornaments 1st Generation 2nd Generation 3rd Generation Sarpesh 07 11.66 09 15.00 01 1.66 Kalgi 32 53.33 34 56.66 17 28.33 Documentation of the Male Ornaments of Punjab through Last Ten Decades 5 Mukat 03 5.00 05 8.33 03 5.00 Turah or marwarid 32 53.33 30 50.00 13 21.66 Sehra 10 16.66 10 16.66 06 10.00 Ear Ornaments Bala 18 30.0 — 03 5.00 Murki 05 8.33 — — Dur 01 1.66 — — Small bali — 01 1.66 03 5.00 Stud — — 05 8.33 Neck ornaments Mala 08 13.33 06 10.00 — Kantha 35 58.33 24 40.00 11 18.33 Tawiz 24 40.00 07 11.66 08 13.33 Chandarmah 04 6.66 11 18.33 17 28.33 Zanjiri 11 18.33 12 20.00 20 33.33 Arm ornaments Ponchi 02 3.33 02 3.33 — Baju band 16 26.66 05 8.33 12 20.00 Taviz 23 38.33 — — Kara 58 96.66 58 96.66 52 86.66 Bracelate — - 22 36.66 Finger ornaments Challa 16 26.66 04 6.66 10 16.66 Angutha 05 8.33 01 1.66 04 6.66 Anguthi 60 100.0 60 100.0 49 81.66 Birhamgand 23 38.33 11 18.33 01 1.66 Multiple Responses Figures in parentheses indicates percentages 6 M. Khullar, S. Bains and N. Grewal 5.1.2 Ear Ornaments The data presented in the Table 1 in concern to ear ornaments indicates that in the 1 st generation, good number of the respondents 30.00 wore bala, followed by 8.33 wore murki in ears. In the 2 nd generation, scarcely 1.66 used ear ornament, which included small bali while in the 3 rd generation, 8.33 of the respondents wore studs. 5.1.3 Neck Ornaments Table-1 depicts that in the 1 st generation, majority 58.33 of the respondents wore kantha, followed by 18.33 who adorned . In the 2 nd generation, good number of the respondents 40.00 wore kantha and minimum number of the respondents 20.00 wore zanjiri on special occasions whereas in the case of 3 rd generation, zanjiri was worn on special occasions by 46.66 of the respondents followed by 28.33 of the respondents who wore modern chandarmah . The results point toward a change in the use of neck ornaments by the male respondents on both daily wear as well as special occasions. As the kantha of youngsters has now been replaced by zanjiri. 5.1.4 Arm Ornaments It is clear from the Table 1 that in the 1 st generation maximum number of the respondents 96.66 wore kara regularly, followed by 26.66 of the respondents who wore bajuband. Maximum number of the respondents 96.66 in the 2 nd generation also wore kara while same in the case of 3 rd generation, majority 86.66 wore kara, followed by 36.66 who wore bracelets of different metalsmaterials in their daily routine. It is evident that the kara is being used by the maximum number of the respondents among all the three generations. However, its use is on the decline, but the change is not as much as with other traditional ornaments. The fact can be attributed to the religious sanctions attached to the use of kara. 5.1.5 Finger Ornaments The results showed in the Table 1 regarding finger ornaments elucidates that all the men in the 1 st generation wore anguthi, followed by 38.33 who wore birhamgand . In the 2 nd generation, 18.33 per cent of the respondents wore birhamgand whereas in the 3 rd generation, maximum number of the respondents 81.66 worn anguthi. About 3-4 decades back males used many of the Documentation of the Male Ornaments of Punjab through Last Ten Decades 7 ornaments for different body parts but presently only fingers rings were worn by them 4 . 5.2 Preference for Weight of Ornaments by the Respondents Data given in Table-2 on next page shows that a good number of respondents in the 1 st generation 48.33 and 35.00 wore heavy weight ornaments on special occasions and daily routine, whereas, no respondent of this generation wore light weight and very light weight ornaments on the special occasions. In the 2 nd generation, it was recorded that 21.66 of the respondents wore heavy-weight ornaments on both daily as well as on special occasions, whereas, in the case of 3 rd generation, light weight and medium weight ornaments were worn by half of the respondents 50.00 each on daily and special occasions, respectively. Table-2 : Preference for Weight of Ornaments by the Respondents n=60 each generation Type of jewellery according to weight 1st Generation 2nd Generation 3rd Generation Casual Formal Casual Formal Casual Formal Heavy 21 35.00 29 48.33 13 21.66 13 21.66 — 01 1.66 Medium 20 33.33 17 28.33 21 35.00 25 41.66 27 45.00 30 50.00 Light 19 31.66 — 13 21.66 09 15.00 30 50.00 27 45.00 Very light — — 10 16.66 — 01 1.66 01 1.66 Multiple Responses Figures in parentheses indicates percentages 5.3 Preferences of MotifsDesigns in Ornaments by Respondents The result shown in Table-3 on next page reveals that respondents in the 1 st , 2 nd and 3 rd generation 53.33, 73.33 and 83.33, respectively preferred geometrical designs in ornaments. 8 M. Khullar, S. Bains and N. Grewal Table-3 : Preferences of MotifsDesigns in Ornaments n=60 each generation MotifsDesigns 1st Generation 2nd Generation 3rd Generation Floral 29 48.33 18 30.00 02 3.33 Birds 01 1.66 — 04 6.66 Animals 09 15.00 04 6.66 — Geometrical 32 53.33 44 73.33 50 83.33 Abstract 08 13.33 18 30.00 25 41.66 Multiple Responses Figures in parentheses indicates percentages 5.4 Preference for material in ornaments by the respondents It is evident from the data contained in table-4 below that the maximum number of the respondents in the 1 st and 2 nd generation 80.00 and 63.33 respectively preferred gold ornaments, whereas in the 3 rd generation majority of the respondents 53.33 preferred ornaments of other metals except gold and silver. Table 4-Preference for Material in Ornaments n=60 each generation Material Generation 1st Generation 2nd Generation 3rd Generation Gold 48 80.00 38 63.33 24 40.00 Silver 22 36.66 19 31.66 20 33.33 Other metals 02 3.33 12 20.00 32 53.33 Multiple Responses Figures in parentheses indicates percentages 6. Conclusion In the 1 st generation, all the men wore finger, neck and arm ornaments, while in the 2 nd generation; maximum number of respondents wore ornaments Documentation of the Male Ornaments of Punjab through Last Ten Decades 9 1900-1930 1930-1960 Documentation of ornaments worn by male respondents through last ten decades 10 M. Khullar, S. Bains and N. Grewal 1960-1990 1990- onwards Documentation of ornaments worn by male respondents through last ten decades on their arms, followed by neck ornaments, whereas in the case of 3 rd generation, maximum number of respondents wore arm ornaments followed by the respondents who wore ornaments in fingers. It was noticed that in the 1 st and 2 nd generation, majority of the men preferred to wore heavy weight ornaments on special occasions as well as in daily life whereas in the 3 rd generation light-weight ornaments were preferred by all the respondents in daily and special occasions. Majority of the male respondents from all three generations preferred geometrical designsmotifs in ornaments. It was observed that in the 1 st and 2 nd generation, majority preferred to wear gold ornaments whereas in the 3 rd generation respondents preferred to wear the ornaments of metals other than gold and silver. Significant change was found in the wearing of ornaments by all the three generations of male respondent’s, this shows that there is less usage of traditional ornaments by the 2 nd and 3 rd generation of male respondents of Punjab. The scrutiny of the data revealed that the 3 rd generation respondents Documentation of the Male Ornaments of Punjab through Last Ten Decades 11 were not even aware, of the traditional ornaments and their names. It was also observed that the up gradation in educational status, change in life style, mass media, rise in gold prices are the major factors found responsible for significant change in the use of traditional ornaments in present generation. People of present generation have shifted their interest in use of ornaments made from beads and shells. References

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, Ph D Dissertation. Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, India, 2002. 3. Sidhu, R., A comparative study on costumes of Hindu and Sikh communities of rural Ludhiana before and after independence , M. Sc. Thesis, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, India, 1984.

4. Suri, S, Punjab District Gazetteer-Ludhiana, Chandigarh, Punjab : Controller of

Printing and Stationery, 1970. ê 12 M. Khullar, S. Bains and N. Grewal Article Received on May 12, 2015; Accepted on June 05, 2015 2 Women’s Leadership : The Debatable Issue that never ends in Indonesian Pesantren Islamic Boarding School Siti Kholifah Leadership is one of the gendered patterns in Indonesia, particularly in pesantren Islamic boarding school as one of institutions from which Muslim scholars emerge, and kyai male leader in pesantren becomes the reference point and political intent. Pesantren still have differences about leadership, particularly in relation to providing meaning and interpreting Koran, verse An-Nisa’:34. This verse was the justification for males dominating females. This research focus to examine the discourse of pesantren related to women’s leadership in public sphere including in politic area. Using feminist and Foucault theory, this research was conducted in As-sa’idiyyah 2 Pesantren as a modern pesantren, Ilmu Al-Qur’an Pesantren as a traditional pesantren, and Mu’allimin-Muallimaat Pesantren as modern pesantren based on Muhammadiyah. This research was qualitative study with used phenomenology approach. This research shows the discourse women’s leadership in three pesantren still become debatable, although in one pesantren As-sa’idiyyah 2, women as a leader in pesantren is exist. However, the continuing women’s leadership is controversial. Mu’allimin- Mu’allimaat, women also become a leader in female school, but women’s leadership tends to as segregation system. Ilmu Al-Qur’an, only men can be a leader in this pesantren. The kyai believes that Islamic law explains the first characteristic of leader must be man. [Keywords : Women’s leadership, Pesantren, Gender] 1. Introduction Leadership is one of the gendered patterns in pesantren Islamic boarding school that is still a debated issue in the Muslim community in relation to CONTEMPORARY SOCIAL SCIENCES, Vol. 24, Number 3 July-September, 2015 Lecturer, Department of Sociology, Faculty of Social and Political Sciences, Brawijaya University, Malang Indonesia E-mail: siti.kholifah.sosiogmail.com