K. Gupta No. Total Girls N=60

Contents 1. Documentation of the Male Ornaments of Punjab through Last Ten Decades M. Khullar, S. Bains and N. Grewal 1 2. Women’s Leadership : The Debatable Issue that never ends in Indonesian Pesantren Islamic Boarding School Siti Kholifah 13 3. Unethical Food Marketing to Children Malti 25 4. Extent of Problems faced by Female Sewing Machine Workers Neha Gahlot, Manju Mehta, Kiran Singh 33 5. Consumer Acceptance of Prepared Patchwork Cushion Covers with Kantha Embroidery Chhavi Gangwar and Harinder Kaur Saggu 41 6. The Impact of Employee Attitudes toward Social Media on Employee Engagement with Computer-Mediated Communication considered as a Moderatoring Factor Min-Li Hung, I-Feng Lee and Zih-Yu Chen 51 7. Evaluation of the Prepared kurtis on the basis of the Consumer Acceptance Manpreet Kaur and Kanwaljit Kaur Brar 61 8. Globalization and its Impact on Rural India Rangoli Chandra and Renu 71 9. Smocking - A Magnificent Endeavour Shikha Bajaj and Harminder Kaur Saini 83 10. The Role of Psychological Capital to Organizational Commitment of Tenured Employees Anne C. Camit, Ma. Socorro C. Bacay and Lesil E. Artista 95 11. Role of NABARD in the Development of Agriculture Sector in India V. K. Gautam and Yogesh Kumar 109 12. Development of Jewellery From Left Overs G. Kaur and D. Kaur 117 13. Adolescents’ Personality Traits and Attitudes towards Mate Selection Mukta Garg and Pratima 127 13. A Content and Critical Discourse Analysis ............Terrorist Attack in Kenya Anne Eboi 137 Journal of National Development Aims and Scope The Journal of National Development JND is an interdisciplinary bi-annual peer reviewed refereed international journal committed to the ideals of a ‘world community’ and ‘universal brotherhood’. The Journal is a joint effort of like-minded scholars in the field of social research. Its specific aims are to identify, to understand and to help the process of nation-building within the framework of a ‘world community’ and enhance research across the social sciences Sociology, Anthropology, Political Science, Psychology, History, Geography, Education, Economics, Law, Communication, Linguistics and related disciplines like like all streams of Home Science, Management, Computer Science, Commerce as well as others like Food Technology, Agricultural Technology, Information Technology, Environmental Science, Dairy Science etc. having social focusimplications.. It focuses on issues that are global and on local problems and policies that have international implications. By providing a forum for discussion on important issues with a global perspective, the JND is a part of unfolding world wide struggle for establishing a just and peaceful world order. Thus, the JND becomes a point of confluence for the rivulets from various disciplines to form a mighty mainstream gushing towards the formulation and propagation of a humanistic world- view. Publication Schedule The Journal of National Development is published in volumes of approximately 250-300 pages, divided into two bi-annual issues–summer and winter. Besides, a special issue in Hindi is also published every year to meet the demand of social scientists, both research scholars and teachers of Hindi speaking states of India. Subscription and Business Correspondence The annual subscription is ` 1000 in India and US 60 abroad, including postage by Speed-PostAirmail. Special issue in Hindi is free with annual subscription. All the subscriptions must be prepaid in favour of The Journal of National Development, payable at Meerut. ISSN 0972-8309; NAAS Rating : 2.50; IBI FACTOR : 3.46 All correspondence pertaining to subscription, change of address, purchase of back numbers, books for review and advertisements should be addressed to : The Managing Editor Journal of National Development D-59, Shastri Nagar, Meerut-250 004 India Tel : 91+121-2763765, 2770765; Mobile : 91+9412200765, 91+99997771669 e-mail : managingeditorjndmeerut.org Website : www.jndmeerut.org 1 Documentation of the Male Ornaments of Punjab through Last Ten Decades M. Khullar, S. Bains and N. Grewal Documentation of the ornaments worn by men of Punjab was done to study the changes in designs, styles, embellishments and materials used in ornaments through last ten decades. It was noticed that during the period of 1900-1930, very heavy and medium-weight ornaments of gold, silver and bronze were used by male. Beads were widely used in ornaments. Mostly floral designs with different styles were used in the jewellery of this period. In the period from 1930-1960 some changes were noticed in the type of metals used for ornaments. Heavy and medium-weight ornaments of silver metal were observed to be in great use but less as compared to earlier decades during this period. During the period from 1960-1990, it was noticed that floral and animal designs were changed into the modified geometrical designs. While during the period from 1990 onwards, motifs and designs were totally changed in ornaments. Geometrical and abstracts designsmotifs were observed in the ornaments. Cheaper metals were used more in ornaments in place of gold and silver. [Keywords : Ornaments, Generations, Traditional, Significant change] 1. Background The ornaments are no less important than clothes in meeting the psychological needs like the frosting on a cake. Accessories give that finished touch, which is indefinable; something called charm and good taste 1 . Ornaments CONTEMPORARY SOCIAL SCIENCES, Vol. 24, Number 3 July-September, 2015 Research Fellow, Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana-141004, Punjab India E-mail: sethi manishapau.edu Senior Scientist cum Head, Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home-Science, PAU, Ludhiana, Punjab India E-mail: Sandeepctpau.edu Dean Postgraduate Studies, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, Punjab India E-mail: nglpau.edu play a magnificent role in an individual‘s life at all age levels, giving a lot of personal satisfaction. Men and women of Punjab, not only for the enhancement of physical beauty but also for the retainment of the traditional Punjabi culture wear a complete range of traditional jewellery. Traditional ornaments of Punjab are a blend of traditional designs and techniques. It is also a source of communication as a message of love, power, marriage and hierarchy. The richer classes of Punjab wear gold ornaments while poor wear ornaments of silver or other inferior metals looking like gold. The two important rivers of Punjab Sutlej and Beas, divide the state of Punjab into three distinct zones namely Malwa, Doaba and Majha. Each of these regions has their own dialect lifestyle and socio-cultural traditions including those related to folk arts and crafts. Transportation and communication facilities have narrowed down these distinctions greatly. Technical developments of various kinds have also had an impact on traditional life style. As a result, the traditional crafts of these zones are fast loosing their distinct individuality in terms of motifs, designs and colours being used. It is imperative to document their distinctive features before they intermingle with each other, thus fading their individuality 2 . Ornaments are not only considered for the purpose of adoration, but also as a security in times of contingency. This is because they are often expensive and can be sold whenever there is dire need of money 3 . Rapid industrialization, technological improvements, better transport and communi- cation facilities etc. have changed the lifestyles of the people in many countries of the world, creating gaps between developed and the developing countries. The advanced economies and urban areas attracted people leading to mass migrations, for employment. During the twentieth century, Punjab witnessed this trend of outward migration towards the European countries and United States. People experienced the after effects of two world wars, urbanization and the green revolution. All these also had a deep impact on the traditional culture and costume accessories of Punjab. 2. Objectives of the Paper In the light of above background, it is essential to gather and document all details from the repositories of our culture, i.e. the older generations and other available sources, If the age-old heritage of Punjab has to be preserved for posterity. The present paper is a humble attempt in this direction. Hence the specific objectives of this study are : 1. To study the background information of three generations. 2 M. Khullar, S. Bains and N. Grewal 2. To document the male ornaments of Punjab through last ten decades. 3. To study the motifs and designs used in ornaments of Punjab through last ten decades. 3. Methodology and Research Design The study has been carried in the Malwa region of Punjab which includes Ludhiana, Patiala, Moga, Mukatsar districts. Research Design includes :

1. Documentation of male costume accessories :

Documentation of costume accessories was done from primary and secondary sources by using snow ball technique.

2. Primary sources : These include Museum of Rural life of Punjab, PAU,

Ludhiana and Museum of Punjabi University, Patiala, Sarafa Bazar gold market at Ludhiana, Patiala and Mukatsar city, and village Gillan in district Ludhiana. Secondary sources included family photographs, paintings, books, magazines, gazetteers and internet.

3. Selection of respondents

: A purposive sampling technique was used to select 60 families of males having three generations living together. Each family consisted of three respondents, i.e. 1st generation 60 yrs above, 2nd generation 40-60 yrs and 3rd generation 20-40 yrs. Thus making a total sample of 180 respondents. The required information was collected from the selected respondents regarding the costume accessories, its designs and embellishments used over the three generations by personally interviewing them.

4. Costume accessories-ornaments : The data pertaining to this part of the

study has been categorized into the background information of the male respondents, their description and costume accessories ornaments worn by them in last ten decades.

5. Background information of Respondents : Majority of the respondents in

the 1 st , 2 nd and 3 rd generation belonged to the age group of 70-80, 40-50 and 20-30 yrs, respectively. Maximum number of respondents in the 1 st generation were illiterate, 2 nd generation studied up to secondary. Respondents in the 3 rd generation were graduates or postgraduates. Most of the respondents were from Sikh families and had monthly income of 30-60 thousand. Documentation of the Male Ornaments of Punjab through Last Ten Decades 3 4. Description of Ornaments worn by Males The documented ornaments worn by male respondents through last ten decades have been depicted in Fig. 1 on next page. The ornaments worn fall in following categories : 4.1 Head Ornaments u Sarpesh : the jewelled aigrette worn in front of the turban. u Kutbiladar : an oval pendant worn over the forehead. u Kalgi : a plume in jeweled setting. u Mukat : a head dress worn by Hindus at wedding. u Turah or marwarid : tassels of pearls worn on the turban. 4.2 Ear Ornaments u Bala : very large ring worn by Khatris, Sikhs and Dogras, they have a pearl strung on the gold wire of which they are made. u Murki : smaller earrings of the same shape. u Dur : a small earring with three studs. u Birbali : a broad earring with three studs. u Durichah : an ear-ring with pendant tassel. 4.3 Neck Ornaments u Mala : a necklace of large beads handing down long and loose. u Kantha : this fits rather close to the neck, the pendant may be omitted. u Nam : a pendent, round or star shaped. u Tawiz : a square amulet, jeweled or otherwise. u Takhti : a flat square plate engraved with figures, etc. u Chandarmah : a large gold flat medal suspended by a single ring. u Zanjiri : a set of chains. 4.4 Arm Ornaments u Ponchi : a series of strings of shells or small gold elongated beads worn on the wrist. u Bazuband : a broad belt-like ornament generally mounted on silk and tied on the upper arm. u Taviz : an amulet worn on the upper arm. 4 M. Khullar, S. Bains and N. Grewal u Kara or Gokru : a bracelet of stiff metal, when the edges are serrated, it is called gokru. 4.5 Finger Ornaments u Challa : a plain hoop or whole hoop ring, with or without stones, being of gold or silver, but the same all round, challas are worn on the toe also. u Angutha : a big ring with a broad face worn on the toe. u Anguthi : a ring set with stones also called mundri. u Birhamgand : broad ring. 5. Findings The findings of this study are presented in following sub-heads : 5.1 Costume Accessories Ornaments Information The details of the ornaments adorn on different body parts and the information regarding the type, designs and metals preferred for ornaments by the three generations of respondents has been discussed below : 5.1.1 Head ornaments Table-1 below elicits that these ornaments were worn only during formal occasions like on marriages or functions. The majority of the male respondents 53.33 in the 1 st generation during their marriage wore each kalgi and turahmarwarid . In the 2 nd generation, majority of the respondents 56.66 adorned Kalgi followed by 16.66 who wore sehra on their marriages, whereas in the 3 rd generation, good number 28.33 of the respondents wore Kalgi followed by 5.00 who wore mukat as head ornament. As a result, a marked change in the use of head ornaments by all the three generations of the males differs significantly. Table-1 : Details of Ornaments worn by the Respondents on different Body Parts n=60 each generation Ornament Category Generation Head ornaments 1st Generation 2nd Generation 3rd Generation Sarpesh 07 11.66 09 15.00 01 1.66 Kalgi 32 53.33 34 56.66 17 28.33 Documentation of the Male Ornaments of Punjab through Last Ten Decades 5 Mukat 03 5.00 05 8.33 03 5.00 Turah or marwarid 32 53.33 30 50.00 13 21.66 Sehra 10 16.66 10 16.66 06 10.00 Ear Ornaments Bala 18 30.0 — 03 5.00 Murki 05 8.33 — — Dur 01 1.66 — — Small bali — 01 1.66 03 5.00 Stud — — 05 8.33 Neck ornaments Mala 08 13.33 06 10.00 — Kantha 35 58.33 24 40.00 11 18.33 Tawiz 24 40.00 07 11.66 08 13.33 Chandarmah 04 6.66 11 18.33 17 28.33 Zanjiri 11 18.33 12 20.00 20 33.33 Arm ornaments Ponchi 02 3.33 02 3.33 — Baju band 16 26.66 05 8.33 12 20.00 Taviz 23 38.33 — — Kara 58 96.66 58 96.66 52 86.66 Bracelate — - 22 36.66 Finger ornaments Challa 16 26.66 04 6.66 10 16.66 Angutha 05 8.33 01 1.66 04 6.66 Anguthi 60 100.0 60 100.0 49 81.66 Birhamgand 23 38.33 11 18.33 01 1.66 Multiple Responses Figures in parentheses indicates percentages 6 M. Khullar, S. Bains and N. Grewal 5.1.2 Ear Ornaments The data presented in the Table 1 in concern to ear ornaments indicates that in the 1 st generation, good number of the respondents 30.00 wore bala, followed by 8.33 wore murki in ears. In the 2 nd generation, scarcely 1.66 used ear ornament, which included small bali while in the 3 rd generation, 8.33 of the respondents wore studs. 5.1.3 Neck Ornaments Table-1 depicts that in the 1 st generation, majority 58.33 of the respondents wore kantha, followed by 18.33 who adorned . In the 2 nd generation, good number of the respondents 40.00 wore kantha and minimum number of the respondents 20.00 wore zanjiri on special occasions whereas in the case of 3 rd generation, zanjiri was worn on special occasions by 46.66 of the respondents followed by 28.33 of the respondents who wore modern chandarmah . The results point toward a change in the use of neck ornaments by the male respondents on both daily wear as well as special occasions. As the kantha of youngsters has now been replaced by zanjiri. 5.1.4 Arm Ornaments It is clear from the Table 1 that in the 1 st generation maximum number of the respondents 96.66 wore kara regularly, followed by 26.66 of the respondents who wore bajuband. Maximum number of the respondents 96.66 in the 2 nd generation also wore kara while same in the case of 3 rd generation, majority 86.66 wore kara, followed by 36.66 who wore bracelets of different metalsmaterials in their daily routine. It is evident that the kara is being used by the maximum number of the respondents among all the three generations. However, its use is on the decline, but the change is not as much as with other traditional ornaments. The fact can be attributed to the religious sanctions attached to the use of kara. 5.1.5 Finger Ornaments The results showed in the Table 1 regarding finger ornaments elucidates that all the men in the 1 st generation wore anguthi, followed by 38.33 who wore birhamgand . In the 2 nd generation, 18.33 per cent of the respondents wore birhamgand whereas in the 3 rd generation, maximum number of the respondents 81.66 worn anguthi. About 3-4 decades back males used many of the Documentation of the Male Ornaments of Punjab through Last Ten Decades 7 ornaments for different body parts but presently only fingers rings were worn by them 4 . 5.2 Preference for Weight of Ornaments by the Respondents Data given in Table-2 on next page shows that a good number of respondents in the 1 st generation 48.33 and 35.00 wore heavy weight ornaments on special occasions and daily routine, whereas, no respondent of this generation wore light weight and very light weight ornaments on the special occasions. In the 2 nd generation, it was recorded that 21.66 of the respondents wore heavy-weight ornaments on both daily as well as on special occasions, whereas, in the case of 3 rd generation, light weight and medium weight ornaments were worn by half of the respondents 50.00 each on daily and special occasions, respectively. Table-2 : Preference for Weight of Ornaments by the Respondents n=60 each generation Type of jewellery according to weight 1st Generation 2nd Generation 3rd Generation Casual Formal Casual Formal Casual Formal Heavy 21 35.00 29 48.33 13 21.66 13 21.66 — 01 1.66 Medium 20 33.33 17 28.33 21 35.00 25 41.66 27 45.00 30 50.00 Light 19 31.66 — 13 21.66 09 15.00 30 50.00 27 45.00 Very light — — 10 16.66 — 01 1.66 01 1.66 Multiple Responses Figures in parentheses indicates percentages 5.3 Preferences of MotifsDesigns in Ornaments by Respondents The result shown in Table-3 on next page reveals that respondents in the 1 st , 2 nd and 3 rd generation 53.33, 73.33 and 83.33, respectively preferred geometrical designs in ornaments. 8 M. Khullar, S. Bains and N. Grewal Table-3 : Preferences of MotifsDesigns in Ornaments n=60 each generation MotifsDesigns 1st Generation 2nd Generation 3rd Generation Floral 29 48.33 18 30.00 02 3.33 Birds 01 1.66 — 04 6.66 Animals 09 15.00 04 6.66 — Geometrical 32 53.33 44 73.33 50 83.33 Abstract 08 13.33 18 30.00 25 41.66 Multiple Responses Figures in parentheses indicates percentages 5.4 Preference for material in ornaments by the respondents It is evident from the data contained in table-4 below that the maximum number of the respondents in the 1 st and 2 nd generation 80.00 and 63.33 respectively preferred gold ornaments, whereas in the 3 rd generation majority of the respondents 53.33 preferred ornaments of other metals except gold and silver. Table 4-Preference for Material in Ornaments n=60 each generation Material Generation 1st Generation 2nd Generation 3rd Generation Gold 48 80.00 38 63.33 24 40.00 Silver 22 36.66 19 31.66 20 33.33 Other metals 02 3.33 12 20.00 32 53.33 Multiple Responses Figures in parentheses indicates percentages 6. Conclusion In the 1 st generation, all the men wore finger, neck and arm ornaments, while in the 2 nd generation; maximum number of respondents wore ornaments Documentation of the Male Ornaments of Punjab through Last Ten Decades 9 1900-1930 1930-1960 Documentation of ornaments worn by male respondents through last ten decades 10 M. Khullar, S. Bains and N. Grewal 1960-1990 1990- onwards Documentation of ornaments worn by male respondents through last ten decades on their arms, followed by neck ornaments, whereas in the case of 3 rd generation, maximum number of respondents wore arm ornaments followed by the respondents who wore ornaments in fingers. It was noticed that in the 1 st and 2 nd generation, majority of the men preferred to wore heavy weight ornaments on special occasions as well as in daily life whereas in the 3 rd generation light-weight ornaments were preferred by all the respondents in daily and special occasions. Majority of the male respondents from all three generations preferred geometrical designsmotifs in ornaments. It was observed that in the 1 st and 2 nd generation, majority preferred to wear gold ornaments whereas in the 3 rd generation respondents preferred to wear the ornaments of metals other than gold and silver. Significant change was found in the wearing of ornaments by all the three generations of male respondent’s, this shows that there is less usage of traditional ornaments by the 2 nd and 3 rd generation of male respondents of Punjab. The scrutiny of the data revealed that the 3 rd generation respondents Documentation of the Male Ornaments of Punjab through Last Ten Decades 11 were not even aware, of the traditional ornaments and their names. It was also observed that the up gradation in educational status, change in life style, mass media, rise in gold prices are the major factors found responsible for significant change in the use of traditional ornaments in present generation. People of present generation have shifted their interest in use of ornaments made from beads and shells. References

1. Dar, S. N., Costumes of India and Pakistan, Bombay : D. B. Taraporevala Sons

and Co. Pvt Ltd., 1969, 56-75.

2. Kaur, N., Production and marketing of durries in different socio cultural zones of Punjab

, Ph D Dissertation. Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, India, 2002. 3. Sidhu, R., A comparative study on costumes of Hindu and Sikh communities of rural Ludhiana before and after independence , M. Sc. Thesis, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, India, 1984.

4. Suri, S, Punjab District Gazetteer-Ludhiana, Chandigarh, Punjab : Controller of

Printing and Stationery, 1970. ê 12 M. Khullar, S. Bains and N. Grewal Article Received on May 12, 2015; Accepted on June 05, 2015 2 Women’s Leadership : The Debatable Issue that never ends in Indonesian Pesantren Islamic Boarding School Siti Kholifah Leadership is one of the gendered patterns in Indonesia, particularly in pesantren Islamic boarding school as one of institutions from which Muslim scholars emerge, and kyai male leader in pesantren becomes the reference point and political intent. Pesantren still have differences about leadership, particularly in relation to providing meaning and interpreting Koran, verse An-Nisa’:34. This verse was the justification for males dominating females. This research focus to examine the discourse of pesantren related to women’s leadership in public sphere including in politic area. Using feminist and Foucault theory, this research was conducted in As-sa’idiyyah 2 Pesantren as a modern pesantren, Ilmu Al-Qur’an Pesantren as a traditional pesantren, and Mu’allimin-Muallimaat Pesantren as modern pesantren based on Muhammadiyah. This research was qualitative study with used phenomenology approach. This research shows the discourse women’s leadership in three pesantren still become debatable, although in one pesantren As-sa’idiyyah 2, women as a leader in pesantren is exist. However, the continuing women’s leadership is controversial. Mu’allimin- Mu’allimaat, women also become a leader in female school, but women’s leadership tends to as segregation system. Ilmu Al-Qur’an, only men can be a leader in this pesantren. The kyai believes that Islamic law explains the first characteristic of leader must be man. [Keywords : Women’s leadership, Pesantren, Gender] 1. Introduction Leadership is one of the gendered patterns in pesantren Islamic boarding school that is still a debated issue in the Muslim community in relation to CONTEMPORARY SOCIAL SCIENCES, Vol. 24, Number 3 July-September, 2015 Lecturer, Department of Sociology, Faculty of Social and Political Sciences, Brawijaya University, Malang Indonesia E-mail: siti.kholifah.sosiogmail.com interpreting Koran verse An-Nisa’: 34. Mostly in the Koran in Indonesia to this verse is “males are the leaders of females, because the God has blessed males with more than female, and because males spend their wealth on females...”. This verse was the justification for males dominating females. For example, when Megawati became the Indonesian presidential candidate in 1999, some of the Islamic parties, including PPP Partai Persatuan Pembanguan United Development Party and KAMI Partai Kebangkitan Muslim Indonesia Indonesian Muslim Awakening Party, disagreed with having a female president based on this verse. PKB Partai Kebangkitan Bangsa Nation Awakening Party, however encouraged women to stand for president, and joined with PDI-P Partai Demokrasi Indonesia-Perjuangan Indonesian Democracy Party-Struggle to promote Megawati as presidential candidate . The situation in 1999 showed how Islamic teaching was became made a justification in the campaign of presidential candidates, and Islamic teaching was interpreted for political interest. Pesantren, as one of institutions from which Muslim scholars emerge, still have differences about leadership, particularly in relation to providing meaning and interpreting verse An-Nisa’ : 34. Generally, pesantren design own curriculum, although the Indonesian Government has regulated Islamic schools madrasah , so curriculum content comprises 70 general subjects and 30 religious subjects. However, some of the pesantren have developed a curriculum in response to changes in contemporary society, while nevertheless retaining pesantren values and ideology. As well the interpretation of Islamic teaching is based on the kyai’s male leader in pesantren opinion, some of the pesantren interpret Islamic teaching with gender values, and some of them interpret it that is dominated by patriarchal values. Moreover, commonly the kyai’s opinion becomes the reference point and political intent in local or national elections. Moreover, the kyai’s political preferences are followed at grassroots level. Based on this situation, this research focus to examine the discourse of pesantren related to women’s leadership in public sphere including in politic area. This study is conducted in the three pesantren that have different characteristic and have their own distinct curriculum. Firstly, As-sa’idiyyah 2 Pesantren is a modern pesantren associated with NUNahdlatul UlamaRevival of the Religious Scholars the largest traditionalist Islamic organization in Indonesia, founded in 1926. Secondly, Ilmu Al-Qur’an Pesantren is a traditional pesantren associated with NU, and Mu’allimin-Muallimaat Pesantren as modern pesantren based on Muhammadiyah the largest modernist Islamic organization in Indonesia, founded in 1912. 14 Siti Kholifah 2. Review of Literature Discourse is the central concept of Foucault’s analysis that determines what can be said and thought, but also who can speak and when, and with what power or authority. Discourse is related to the social processes that produce meaning which develops not from language but from institutions and power relations. Discourse has provided a new perspective in gender issues that explains how power is constituted in multiple ways between women, between men and between men and women. Hence, post-structuralism has assisted feminist studies to analyze identity and power in societies that have complex characteristics. According to Francis, post-structuralism deconstructs the dominant discourse, exercises a power relationship, and deconstructs concepts of morality, justice and truth. Moreover Francis asserts that the development of post- structuralism is related to feminist research in two main areas. First, discourse analysis is utilized to investigate gender diversity in society. Second, feminism is developed as an interpretative community through openness and respect for others within that community. Furthermore, the educational system maintains the social appropriation of discourse. It therefore controls access to various kinds of discourse. The distribution of discourse in education is constructed by the examination and the whole power and knowledge. Arguably, students are constructed through passive and active processes through internal or external authority figures . Thus the relationship of power and knowledge in education is not only concerned with an imbalance between teacher and student, but also related to the power vested in the teacher by virtue of her or his knowledge of the student . Power has both a negative and positive effect, not only to be resisted, but also pleasurable and emancipatory. Moreover, powerknowledge relations have a gender dimension. A Foucaultian approach can provide an alternative to feminist analyses that adopts over-monolithic notions of male power and male control of women, or which retain utopian visions of the total reconstruction or autonomy of female desire. The view of feminists and Foucault represent different perspectives but they also share views about power and knowledge. Moreover, Foucault’s theory has been of particular interest to feminists. First, Foucault’s theory attends to the productive nature of power and his emphasis on the social body in relation to power is compatible with developing feminist insight about the politics of Women’s Leadership : The Debatable Issue that never ends in Indonesian Pesantren 15 personal life. Second, Foucault was one of the most politically connected poststructuralists. Finally, Foucault’s theory and feminist theory merge to analyze research and provide implications in adopting the methodology. 3. Methodology This study was qualitative research with a phenomenology approach. The data collection was conducted in some methods: in-depth interview, observation, and documentation. Firstly, in-depth interview were selected by the purposive method with characteristic of informants : pesantren leader, pesantren teachers, and pesantren students. Secondly, observation and documentation directly from pesantren related to the discourse about pesantren leadership include women’s leadership. All the data were cross checked as a process to find significant data which a part of triangulation. I examined in three pesantren in Java : As-sa’idiyyah 2 Pesantren in Jombang, East Java, Ilmu Al-Qur’an Pesantren in Malang, East Java, and Mu’allimin-Mu’allimaat Pesantren in Yogyakarta. The rationale for choosing these pesantren is they have different characteristic: traditional pesantren associated with NU, modern pesantren associated with NU, and modern pesantren based on Muhammadiyah. NU and Muhammadiyah is two largest Islamic organizations in Indonesia that have influence to social, cultural and political issues. 4. Finding and Discussion 4.1 Mu’allimin and Mu’allimaat Pesantren : Men and Women Leader as Segregation System Mu’allimin and Mu’allimaat were founded by Kyai Haji Ahmad Dahlan in 1920. This pesantren is located in Yogyakarta city with Indonesian culture dominates local identity Javanese. The students of Mu’allimin and Mu’allimaat come from all regions in Indonesia, and the overall majority of students have urban backgrounds. Students total 2036 47 Mu’allimaat and 53 Mu’allimin students. Mu’allimin and Mu’allimaat are characterised as modern reformist and open-minded toward social and political issues in local and national spheres, as well as being open to outsiders. Moreover, Mu’allimin and Mu’allimaat are professional institutions, where teaching staff are qualified, and the role of the founder family is not dominant. Mu’allimin and Mu’allimaat segregate male and 16 Siti Kholifah female students, not only in boarding school but in the broader school system Mu’allimin for male students and Mu’allimaat for female students and have a separate organizational structure. The boarding school system is also different from other pesantren in Java; in Mu’allimin and Mu’allimaat the dormitories and the house of the leader are separate. In addition, the position of the leader, ustadzustadzah malefemale teacher and students have similar positions and professional relations, although the leader still has precedence. In Mu’allimaat, female leadership is still a sensitive issue although it is led by a woman. But, the Mu’allimaat community tends to agree that a woman should not lead a mixed gender community, rather that women can only lead women. Hence, the discourse about the ideal female leader in Mu’allimaat is introduced gradually to Mu’allimaat students as Ustadzah Unik explains : I do not come from a pesantren , I grew up in Muhammadiyah from the Youth organization and am accustomed to being open minded. And then, I worked in a pesantren that is identical to insularity, so I must gradually introduce new notions including about women’s leadership. Although I have colleagues from the Majelis Tarjih The division in Muhammadiyah that has the authority to create religious opinion and advice relating to contemporary issues or problems in the Muslim community, I regularly discuss this issue. But, in principle the person who has the best qualities, male or female, can be a leader. So, I talk with my students along these lines. I have explained to members of the IPM that the leadership concept does distinguish between male and female. It does not mean if you are female, you cannot do anything. The important thing is to play a role in the Muslim community, to lead oneself, and lead other people. Interview with Ustadzah Unik, female teacher in Mu’allimaat, 27 September, 2010 The leadership in Mu’allimaat is a model of how women can be leaders, but only in a community of women. Hence, Ustadzah Unik emphasises the capability and quality as characteristics of leadership without citing gender. Mu’allimaat tends to educate and encourage leadership skills of students as asserted by Latifah : Outside the Mu’allimaat, I often listen to debates about the distinction between male and female, but in the Mu’allimaat we do not compare male and female, but we know a woman also can be a leader, women also have skills. So, in Mu’allimaat, we learn a lot of things that educate our leadership, such as organization and competition. We are independent; we Women’s Leadership : The Debatable Issue that never ends in Indonesian Pesantren 17 can lift a table and this is common. Interview with Latifah, female student in Mu’allimaat, 1 October, 2010 Latifah believes Mu’allimaat enables female students to become independent personalities who can be leaders. However, the perspective of Mu’allimin students is different. They tend to reject the prospect of women as leaders because Islamic values emphasize men as leaders; and if a woman leads this is caused by the unavailability of a man as Ridwan explains : In Islam, the leader must be a man; this means women cannot be a leader. Women can be a leader only in emergency conditions. So, when there is a male with the capability and high quality, why should the man not become the leader? I felt disappointed when Megawati was president. Interview with Ridwan, male santri in Mu’allimin, 27 September, 2010 Similarly, Taufik also asserted that female leaders tend to have more weakness than advantage because of their domestic responsibilities as explained below : Why in Islam should a woman not be a leader? For example, a woman is a leader of an organization; she must attend meetings from morning until night. If a woman is a leader, does not she think of her obligations to her family, because in her house, she also has responsibilities. Because of her organization, she does not go home until night; how is this seen by society? This is not useful. In Islamic values, the prevention of damage is preferred to the pursuit of advantage. Interview with Taufik, male student in Mu’allimin, 30 September, 2010 The domination of males in Mu’allimin as leaders, teachers and staff perpetuates masculine culture and values. Muallimin and Mu’allimaat students observe and learn about gender roles through their studies. However, the female students in Mu’allimaat are more conscious of the gender values promoted in both Mu’allimin and Mu’allimaat. The gender segregation in these institutions embeds patriarchal values because the Mu’allimaat system is still dominated by these values, represented in the curriculum and the rules, and women who are educated in this environment tend to preserve the patriarchal system. 4 .2 As-sa’idiyyah 2 Pesantren has a figure Women’s Leadership As-sa’idiyyah 2 is located in Jombang, East Java, 100 km from Surabaya, the capital of East Java Province. As-sa’idiyyah 2 is dominated by Javanese culture 18 Siti Kholifah rather than Indonesian national values; as well patriarchal culture is embedded in the pesantren’s tradition. As-sa’idiyyah 2 has 120 santri student in total : 51 female and 49 male. The santri mostly come from East Java or Jakarta, Bandung or other cities in Java, and predominantly from middle and lower class family backgrounds. As-sa’idiyyah 2 was founded in 2004 by Kyai Hasan and Nyai Umdatul Choirot. Before As-sa’idiyyah 2 is founded, Kyai Hasan and Nyai Umda managed his father’s pesantren. Nyai Umda also replaced her father’s position as head of school in the MAI Madrasah Aliyah Al-I’dadiyyah Senior high school Al-I’dadiyyah in 2002 who leads mixed gender community where in pesantren community this situation is not common. In As-sa’idiyyah 2, the concept of leadership is not the only discussion point in class, but also the leadership of Nyai Umda in MAI as a female leadership figure, as well as the response of pesantren community to the opportunities for and obstacles to women leaders. Moreover, the leadership of Nyai Umda in MAI actually is controversial for other reasons: first, she has a brother who usually replaces the father and second, MAI is an institution with both males and females which is uncommon in terms of a female leading a male and female community. This is discussed by Ustadzah Riska, female teacher in MAI : Initially, the leader in MAI was the brother of Nyai Umda, it is inconceivable that a women could be a leader here. But I don’t know why, probably Nyai Umda has outstanding skills and experience. At that time, Nyai Umda had a conflict with her brother. It was complicated, because one of Nyai Umda’s family frequently was absent. Interview with Ustadzah Riska, female teacher in MAI and As-sa’idiyyah 2, 2 December, 2010. As a person who grew up in pesantren , Ustadzah Riska has the perception that a female cannot be a leader in a male and female community. According to Nyai Umda, her father, Kyai Nasrullah saw her as a persistent and consistent person, with strong leadership capacities and argued that the meaning of arrijalu and an-nisa in verse An-Nisa: 34 emphasize character, rather than sex : My father told me, don’t misunderstand the term arrijalu. The important thing is resoluteness. My father knew me as a persistent person; I have fought all the way to the capital city. I do everything although I have lots of conflict, and I also had conflict with my father. I read my father’s yellow Women’s Leadership : The Debatable Issue that never ends in Indonesian Pesantren 19 book related to the concept of leadership, but the social structure has persisted. Interview with Nyai Umda, the female leader of As-sa’idiyyah 2, 1 December, 2010 Kyai Nasrullah suggested the meaning of the term arrijal refers to masculine character, not males, and an-nisa’ refers to feminine character, not females. Consequently, either can be a leader, if they have the characteristics of logical thinking, strength, and independence. Hence, the interpretation of the verse An-Nisa: 34, also has became a doctrine by Nyai Umda to develop gender equity in pesantren community, as shown by a male santri when I asked about the interpretation of this verse : Nyai Umda always explains that arrijal is not only for males, but is more about masculine characteristics; sometimes a female has masculine characteristics that are arrijal , sometimes a male has feminine characteristics and is an-nisa’ . So, a male is not superior, sometimes he has a more subordinate position than a female. Mostly, salaf traditional kyai believe that women are led by men. When Nyai Umda explained this verse, my thinking was opened up, in reality there different interpretations. Interview with Nafis, male santri in As-sa’idiyyah 2, 1 December, 2010 Others believe that Nyai Umda’s perception of Islamic teaching is accurate as Ustadzah Riska who studied in Cairo explained : I understood from Nyai Umda, about yellow book and their interpretation, that women do not have to be inferior and leaders do not have to be men. In fact, Nyai Umda is also a woman activist. What we see reflected in Nyai Umda is true. Interview with Ustadzah Riska, female teacher in MAI and As-sa’idiyyah 2, 2 December, 2010 The leadership of Nyai Umda is unusual, particularly in Bahrul Ulum, because her father provided a strong recommendation that she lead MAI. This makes her an agent of change, not only in relation to her position, but to encourage gender equity and women’s empowerment with the kyai’s approval. However, not everyone in Bahrul Ulum agree that women should be leaders. Some argued that whilst women can have public leadership roles, their domestic roles should take precedence as Ustadz Yusuf explains : I think it does not matter if a woman becomes a leader, as long as she can manage all her responsibilities, including the family. If a woman is in the political area, and then she becomes a leader, she cannot maintain her 20 Siti Kholifah responsibilities with her family, Like the Javanese saying: “looking for something small, losing something substantial”. I think the essential responsibility for women is their family; other matters are optional, if meritorious sunnah . However, some people say that verse An-Nisa’: 34 only relates to prayers, in which women cannot become an imam a leader. There is no Islamic teaching that says women can lead men at prayers together. I had been seeking an argument in Islam, because there has been much debate about this. I had been looking for a hadith , but until now, I have not found anything, and if I find it, I am not sure how to choose an interpretation. I prefer to choose the opinion that man must lead women. Interview with Ustadz Yusuf, male teacher in MAN Bahrul Ulum, 4 December, 2010 Although, he agrees with women becoming leaders, this excludes mixed prayers. Ustadz Yusuf as both teacher and kyai has the authority to choose Islamic teaching or the material in yellow book that he considers significant. This situation shows how individual males invest in the patriarchal system. 4 .3 Ilmu Al-Qur’an Pesantren : Man must be a Leader Ilmu Al-Qur’an is located in Singosari, a suburb of Malang, and 80 km from Surabaya. This pesantren is a family institution under the patriarchal control of the pesantren leader. Ilmu Al-Qur’an has developed own curriculum that not associated with Indonesian government. The leader of the pesantren is like a king in a small kingdom and he is thought to have barokah blessing or reward from God. The santri of the pesantren show great respect towards the leader. The santri of Ilmu Al-Qur’an come from the region in East Java and other province in Indonesia. Ilmu Al-Qur’an is lead by Kyai Alwi Basori who senior kyai in Malang region. As family institution, his sons of Kyai Alwi also teach and manage this pesantren . This situation is method to cadre her family become his successor. One of the sons who teaching staff in Ilmu Al-Qur’an is Ustadz Luthfi Alwi Basori. He is also active in some Islamic organizations in Malang. According to Ustadz Luthfi Alwi Basori, the characteristic of leader in society should be appropriate by Islamic law as his explanation : If we discuss about Islamic law, the first characteristic of leader must be man. Because in one of verses in Al-Qur’an explain man for leadership area. So, I believe the opinion from Islamic scholars who say that person Women’s Leadership : The Debatable Issue that never ends in Indonesian Pesantren 21 who has authority and legitimacy became leader is man. Although some of people say not only man became a leader, but in my opinion that have legality as leader is man. Why like that? Because in fiqh Islamic jurisprudence also give explanation that women have restriction. We follow fiqh , not logical thinking. Women must be restricted from men community. Women cannot lead pray together in man community. This situation is limitation from women. As well as women cannot adzan provide announcement for praying. In term of leadership, this condition will make difficulties for women when Mosque community needs their leader to attend in Mosque; suddenly their women leader is having menstruation. So, she cannot attend in Mosque. Because of this situation, women cannot appropriate as leader. I am as MUI member, if someday MUI has fatwa that women can be president, I will not follow this fatwa . Interview with Ustadz Luthfi, male teacher in Ilmu Al-Qur’an, 13 August, 2011 Ustadz Luthfi interprets the verse An-Nisa’: 34 as textual based on his knowledge and experience that man as a leader for woman. As a result, the characteristic of leader is man. Her experience in Islamic organization such as MUI Majelis Ulama IndonesiaIndonesian Islamic scholars association, NU in Malang provide understanding about how the style of leadership. In both organizations the leader is always man, and the members of both organization is dominated by men. As well, in Ilmu Al-Qur’an only men can be a leader. The discourse of leadership in Ilmu Al-Qur’an provide influence to santri, although the political issue never discuss in this institution as explaining Faiz, santri Ilmu Al-Qur’an : In this pesantren we never discuss about leadership issues, or leadership of Indonesian government. However, in this pesantren we are provided knowledge related to how the ideal characteristic of leader in Islam: firstly, the leader must be a Muslim and Man. So, the leader in Indonesia has been according to this criterion Interview with Faiz, male santri Ilmu Al-Qur’an, 18 August, 2013. Pesantren tradition that assert santri should be sami’na wa atho’na we listen and we obedient to leader kyai and teachers. So, no wonder santri also have similar political discourse with the kyai or kyai’s family. this is because kyai and his family have central position and power in pesantren, as well they are 22 Siti Kholifah assumed to have outstanding Islamic knowledge. This condition provides influence the similarities of political discourse among kyai and santri. As Foucault’s opinion 1980 power is complex strategies in society that can observe in discourse. 5. Conclusion The discourse women’s leadership in the three pesantren is based on Islamic teaching, experiences and situation in this institution. The interpretation of Islamic teaching in each pesantren is according to pesantren leader. Nyai Umda is head of MAI, she does not offer gender subjects, but she develops gender awareness through the teaching materials for tafsir Koran exegesis. A similar condition prevails in Mu’allimin and Mu’allimaat, where some of the teachers develop gender awareness through the teaching materials for fiqh . Nyai Umda believe that the interpretation of Islamic teaching with gender values is important to teach in class, without it being written in the curriculum, because they have the authority to maintain subject materials and teaching methods. But these are unusual teachers using slightly unorthodox methods of drawing attention to the issue of gender in conventional classrooms. In doing so, they subvert the patriarchal norms which are embedded throughout all three pesantren to varying degrees. Their aim is to introduce these perspectives covertly without drawing attention to themselves or their endeavors, and in this way to assist santri to consider the dynamics of gender in their religious, educational and everyday lives. References 1. Ball, SJ, ‘Introducing Monsieur Foucault’ in SJ Ball ed., Foucault and Education : Disciplines and Knowledge, Routledge , London and New York, 1990, pp. 1-8. 2. Dhofier, Z, The Pesantren Tradition : The Roles of The Kyai in the Maintenance of Traditional Islam in Java , The Program of Southeast Asian Studies, Arizona, 1999. 3. DJPI-KAR Indonesia, Sejarah Pendidikan Islam dan Organisasi Ditjen Pendidikan Islam, by Indonesia, DJPI-KAR, Direktorat Jenderal Pendidikan Islam -Kementerian Agama Republik Indonesia, 2008.

4. Endang, T, Struggling for the Umma : Changing Leadership Roles of Kiai in Jombang, East Java

, The Australian National University, 2005. Women’s Leadership : The Debatable Issue that never ends in Indonesian Pesantren 23 5. Francis, B, ‘Beyond Postmodernism: Feminist Agency in Education Research’, in B Francis C Skelton eds, Investigating Gender : Contemporary Perspectives in Education , Open University Press, Buckingham, Philadelphia, 2001, 65-76. 6. Mu’allimaat 2010a, Data Pendidikan Orang Tua Siswi Madrasah Mu’allimaat Tahun Pelajaran 20102011 , Madrasah Mu’allimaat, Yogyakarta 7. ............, Data Siswi Madrasah Mu’allimaat Tahun Pelajaran 20102011, Madrasah Mu’allimaat, Yogyakarta, 2010b. 8. Mu’allimin 2010b, Data Pendidikan Orang Tua Siswa Madrasah Mu’allimin Tahun Pelajaran 20102011 , Madrasah Mu’allimin, Yogyakarta. 9. ............, Data Siswa Madrasah Mu’allimin Tahun Pelajaran 20102011, Madrasah Mu’allimin, Yogyakarta, 2010c. 10] Karim, AG, ‘Pesantren in Power : Religious Institutions and Political Recruitment in Sumenap, Madura [Paper in Islamic Education in Indonesia.]’, Review of Indonesian and Malaysian Affairs, vol. 42, no. 1, 2008, 157-84. 11. Kholifah, S, ‘Wacana Santri Perempuan tentang Politik’, Universitas Airlangga, 2005.

12. Pesantren, A-si 2010a, Data Santri Pondok Pesantren As-sa’idiyyah 2 Putra Bahrul Ulum

, As-sa’idiyyah 2 Pesantren, Jombang. 13. ............, Data Santri Pondok Pesantren As-sa’idiyyah 2 Putri Bahrul Ulum, As-sa’idiyyah 2 Pesantren, Jombang, 2010b.

14. Paechter, C, Changing School Subjects : Power, Gender and Curriculum, Open

University Press, Buckingham, Philadelphia, 2000.

15. Sawicki, J, Disciplining Foucault : Feminism, Power and the Body, Routledge,

New York, London, 1991. 16. Srimulyani, E, ‘Muslim Women and Education in Indonesia: The Pondok Pesantren Experience’, Asia Pacific Journal of Education, Vol. 27, No. 1, 2007, 85-99.

17. Suryakusuma, JI, Sex, Power and Nation : an Othology of Writings 1979-2003,

Metafor, Jakarta, 2004. 18. Wagiman, S, The Modernization of the Pesantren’s Educational System to Meet the Needs of Indonesian Communities , McGill University, 1997. ê 24 Siti Kholifah Article Received on May 25, 2015; Accepted on June 18, 2015 3 Unethical Food Marketing to Children Malti The values we impart to our children today, consciously and unconsciously will have a major impart on society tomorrow. If we continue to leave the teaching of values to chance, we are a nation, risk losing as integral piece of our culture altogether. Children are the human resource and assets of a country. They are the most vulnerable section of our country. They need special care and protection, if the future of the nation is to be made secure. Children are the first call on agenda of development not only because young children are the most vulnerable, but because the foundation for life long learning and human development is laid in the crucial early years. Survival, development and growth of a child has to be looked at in a holistic manner and there have to be balanced linkages between education, health and nutrition for proper development of a child. The present paper is an attempt to analyze the Unethical Food Marketing to Children. It has been shown that children should be educated in the science of marketing and businesses and should learn to satisfy needs in a manner which protects and even nurtures children’s right and best interests. [Keywords : Values, Human resource, Unethical food marketing, authority figures, children’s right and best interests] India is the home of the largest child population in the world. “Child is the father of man” is an old but true saying because conduct character of as adult person reflect what he has imbibed in childhood. Children bring the asset of nation should be grown up to become robust, physically fit, mentally alert and morally healthy citizen. We should be aware that children are the future of the modern world. Children need a healthy, balanced diet which is rich in fruit, vegetables and starchy food. Food which is the basic necessity of life, plays a crucial role in children’s growth. If young children are not given proper care in giving proper CONTEMPORARY SOCIAL SCIENCES, Vol. 24, Number 3 July-September, 2015 Assistant Professor, Department of Sociology, N. A. S. PG College, Meerut, Uttar Pradesh India E-mail: malti_phogatyahoo.co.in balanced diet, they will suffer from malnutrition which intern effect their growth. Encourage children to choose a variety of foods to help ensure that they obtain the wide range of nutrients, if they need to stay healthy. Better quality and more nutritious food, less processed food should be encourage for growing children. Children physiology is an important aspect in their development. Surrounding environment plays a important role in the development of child. They learn from their adults, share a common value system and are motivated from their elders. Children live in their own dream land, develop various tyre of fantasies in their mind try to fulfill them somehow. Children enjoy social interaction, have a breadth of interest and grasp of possibilities. They are very good at grasping things. They are highly interested and observant of how thing work and often. They often tale apart toys in an effort to observe and understand “what makes them thick.” Thy create their own fantasy world and live very much within the world they create. Children are diligent and conscientious have a deep concern for other’s feeling and work at trying a please parents, teachers and other authority figures. They thrive in an environment which provides consistency and personal attention, rules and authority are important to them. Acceptance of others is also very important to then and they strive to please their parents and others. For them to do their best in the classroom a positive teacher student relationship in essential. It is vital for them to like the person who teachers them and disharmony. They are very skeptical and analytical and trust reason above all else. They connect unrelated thoughts and seek objective solutions to enigmatic problems. They regard their parents, teachers and other adults as their equal and feel free to challenge them when ever they perceive their thinking to be illogical. Children abhor making mistaken and try to avoid letting other know when they do so. They very soon catch what they see in Television. Advertisement play a vital role in media field. T.V. advertisements specifically aimed at children companies related to food products are targeting our young generation for selling their product. They through the mean of advertisement exhibit their product in such a lovely manner that our tinytots soon get attracted wants to try that particular product. Example:- Sunny Delight soft drink changed its name to “SUNNY D” in order to seem “cool” to the younger set. They began showing commercial advertisements that displayed children and young teens coming in the house with skateboards and raving over the fact Sunny D was in the refrigerator. Today food industry of Indiaall our the world in selling their worst 26 Malti product in society by targeting our societychildren which in unethical Corporation advertise or package or create their products in a manner that is enticing to children known as unethical food marketing. Breakfast cereal makers are another group that is highly guilty of ploys created to children to urge their parents to buy a certain brand. They put appealing cartoon characters as the boxes and put toys or games inside to entice kids. Example:- CRAX packet of Rs. 5 carry small games inside kids enjoy playing it. Sometimes the children do not even want the cereal but are move attracted to the toy. Brilliantly marketed highly salty foods are being deliberately targeted for our children’s lunch boxes. The use of marketing practices targeted at children to sell their product is unethical says Registered Nutritionist and chartered Marketer, Kathy Lewis of consensus Action on salt and Health. India is world’s second largest grower of fruits and vegetables after Brazil and China. While the agriculture sector has witnessed several leaps of innovation and technological advancements, the processing sector is still in its infancy. Even with less than 4 processing of fruits and vegetables, the Food processing Industry sector in India is one of the largest in terms of production, consumption within India, export and growth prospects. The government has accorded it a high priority, with a number of fiscal reliefs and incentives, to encourage commercialization and value addition to agricultural produce; for minimizing perpost harvest wastage, generating employment and export growth. As a result of several policy initiatives undertaken since liberalization in early 90’s, the industry has witnessed fast growth in most of the segments. In the following few paragraphs, it can be noted that the processed food market for India is vast and the aount of scope that retail chains would be exposed to is phenomenal taking into consideration the demographics and raise in standards of living. Retailers could throng the market with all these processed and packaged foods with their private labels. With the emergence of the big private corporates, NGOs Non-Government Organizations and Government organizations into the food processing scene, India is making big inroads into the Food Processing Industry. These corporates and NGOs have reached out to the farmers and provided them with timely advice and help in the up gradation of farm practices with valuable inputs on various areas of farming from sowing to harvesting which includes quality seed procurement, manures, fertilizers and pesticides etc. Some of the successful models are that of ITC’s e-choupal a model that helps the soyabean farmers in contract producing for ITC for its commodity trading business. The Unethical Food Marketing to Children 27 PEPSI experimenting with Punjab farmers in growing the right quality tomato for its tomato purees and pastes. Some of the leading food retail chains working with farmers for contract growing greens for supply to their retail outlets etc. These successful models are being replicated with required changes all over the country and the food industry is getting integrated more strongly. India has also seen a flurry of food chain majors like McDonalds, Pizza Hut and kentucky fried Chicken finding their place among the Indian consumers. The trend still follows for food chains in India to spread to almost all cities and towns. These advancements have revolutionized the integration of the Indian Food Industry and have played a vital role in solving, to a large extent, major supply chain issues that prevailed. The trend is that these successful institutional intervention models be replicated and supread in all segments of the food industry far and wide through the country that benefit all the incumbents of the chain evolve. This finally helps the retailer as his supply chain becomes much leaner and vertically integrated. He is in a position to offer a wide variety and highest degree of convenience to his customer. The media bombardment during the last 15 years has exposed the Indian consumer to the life styles of more affluent countries and raised their aspirations and expectations from the shopping experience. They want more choice, value, service, experience and convenience. Ethical practices are aimed to ensure a sustained market. Although promotional techniques are used encourage usage by a particular target audience, they should not be used on those that are vulnerable and at such a crucial stage of health and development. Food industry used a combination of marketing techniques including packaging, positioning promotion and price, to enhance sales. The worst cases surveyed, using upto a combination of 10 marketing techniques on one product, included ‘Attack-a-Snack,’ Walker’s crip’s igpacket. Each used a combination of marketing techniques specifically aimed at children and busy parents. These marketing techniques includes : u Competition, such as win a year, pocket money. u In-pack promotion, including games and colouring in. u Web-based promotions, such as design your own dairy-lea movie or as interactive web-enabled competition. u Text messages. 28 Malti Advertising is a massive, mutli-million dollar project that “having an enormous impact on child development” Says Kanner, who is also an associate faculty member at a clinical psychology training program called the wright Institute. According to Kanner, the result is not only as epidemic of materialistic values among children but also something he calls “narcissistic wounding” of children. Children in share a common thing- a growing, even insatiable, desire for material goods. Now days advertisers are making their pitchers to younger and younger audiences, many of them not yet out of drapers. Marketing to children is a planned process which starts at early age and continue till heshe become loyal customer or drop the product as a result of his analytical ability to understand the message and content of product and advertising. Normally child get exposed to the advertising at early age, when the child starts recognizing shapes and images. Advertising gradually build the strong relationship between brand and the child. For example, Adds of Horlicks, Bournvita, Maggi are presented in such a beautiful manner that a child starts demanding it. These demand create an environment of child parent conflict. Parents find themselves having to say no over and over again to children whose desire are piqued by effective advertising. Representation of marketing process and development of child as consumer Lifestyle trends in urban India [Crising incomes, longer working hours, more working mothers, time poorcash-rich parents] tend to support a convenience time pass and food culture, which lead the child to watching television and the increased consumption of HFSS food [high in fat, salt and sugar]. In addition the advertising industry makes junk food seem irresistible, Unethical Food Marketing to Children 29 Attractive Colours Celebrity Endorsement Entertainment Image Building Consumption Repeat Purchase Brand Loyal Cartoons Fantasy thus children become physically addicted to junk food. Children who don’t have the emotional or cognitive tools evaluate what’s being sold to them also demand for product of their choice mostly advertised products. They want the advertised product which give pleasure because its glorified, fantasy and puffery appeal. Food industries are more interested in making money rather than paying needs to the health problems that their products can cause. These people are criminals and they seen on harm in doing so. Tactics are used to make entire children, make them feel “less than cool” if they do not get a certain food product or even create products that coloured or shaped in certain ways that children would be fascinated by. Unethical food marketing have adverse effect on child health. This includes : u Physical health of child. u Mental stress for not owing the product of his choice. u Diet habits. u Family stress a result of influence on family spending. u Consumption of alcoholic drink. u Smoking. Another source of animosity is the family budget advertising make kids want things, it creates desire which put a lot of pressure on parents. When a parent says, ‘No, I cannot by that, I don’t have enough money, there’s as underlying sense that the parent is not meeting the child’s need and is depriving the child of what he or she needs to be happy. At the same time, the youngster is learning how to get parents to respond to his or her wishes and want. This may take the form of a grunt, where scream, or gesture-indeed some tears may be necessary but eventually almost all children are able on a regular basis to persuade Mom of Dad to buy something for them. The Indian child is also becoming influencing consumer for today and powerful buyer for tomorrow. Food industry currently faces angry resistance from health institutions against the growing increase in child obesity. Health industries and institutions seems to be fighting a losing battle in terms of appealing to children, in because they do not understand the art of marketing and communication. Where are the teletubby-branded apples? Obesity amongst children is just as much the result of 30 Malti unethical marketing on the part of certain foodsnack brands as it is of the lack of proper marketing on the part most health institutions and industries. Marketing base to put the brand on the top of the mind, creating brand equity, maintaining the brand loyalty has extended its net to influence the children to a extent that it has lost its path and walking on the unethical grounds, leaving our children in a vulnerable condition. The media is filled with sensational child guardian us the marketer’ articles and in the process none of the parties realize that they can learn from one another to their mutual benefit. Marketers can learn how to be more ethical and socially responsible when it comes to children by understanding them as a developing human being and not just consumer. Health industries and institutions can utilize sound marketing principles to get their positive, educational messages across. Marketing can be wonderful information resource to children. It can serve as an introduction to what it means to be a responsible consumer and help children to appreciate diversity of choices, teaching team to choose wisely. Parents are urged to teach their children financial discernment and in school children are taught how to use and interpret the media. We should educate our children on how to tame this ‘beast’? Today consumers have rights-the right to safety, choice, education, information and right to speak their mind. Consumers expect businesses to be pro-active and adopt a socially responsible approach to marketing which ensures that customers needs are met, but with their best interests at heart-especially comes to children. Marketers need to go back to all of the four marketing P’s-product, price, place and promotion- using sound ethical and socially responsible values as the foundation for all. Businesses should be pro-active and shift their focus from “how can we implement marketing without doing harm” to “how can we implement marketing to the benefit and growth of our market”. It does not mean that fast-food industry should close its doors, television producers stop producing television, programs aimed at children. Not necessarily-the societal management philosophy in self brings new opportunities to many industries; the opportunity to expand food product portfolios by developing ‘healthy alternatives; the opportunity to develop marketing strategies which not only seal products, but also educate consumers on a healthy, balanced lifestyle; a boom in the sports equipment and toy industries and the opportunity to create healthy lifestyle television programs. Unethical Food Marketing to Children 31 One thing is certain : The answer does not lie in banning marketing to children or labeling all marketing to children as “unethical”. Children should instead be educated in the science of marketing and businesses should learn to satisfy needs in a manner which protects and even nurtures children’s right and best interests. References Kumar Ashok, Developing Women Children in India, New Delhi : Common Wealth Publisher, 2006, 52-60 . Dabholker, P. A., Thorpe. D. A. and Punty, J. O, “A measure of service quality for retail stores”, Journal of the Academy of Marketing Science, 241, 1996, 3-16. Technopak Retail Outlook Quarterly Report , New Delhi : Technopak Advisors Pvt. Ltd., October 2007. Deloitte Global Powers of Retailing Report , Deloitte Development LLC, 2008. K. K. Tripathy, “Processed Food Industry in India : Potentials and Constraints”, Kurukshetra , Vol. 25, No. 6, April 2006, 12-16. Lalita Khurana, “Consumer sovereigntay can be a Reality”, Kurukshetra, Vol. 25, No. 6, April 2006, 21-23. ê 32 Malti Article Received on May 09, 2015; Accepted on June 06, 2015 4 Extent of Problems faced by Female Sewing Machine Workers Neha Gahlot, Manju Mehta, Kiran Singh Sewing is a helping hand activity for the woman who is not very educated, but skilled and cannot go outside the house for earning. In matrix of home and workplace environment which is often overlapped, women have to suffer a lot of problems including physical and psychological as well. The study was undertaken in the Hisar city of Haryana state to find out the problems in sewing activity performed by the female sewing machine operators. The responses of the respondents were taken through well structured questionnaire cum interview schedule. The findings of the study revealed that injuries and minor accidents were frequently faced by the respondents while performing the sewing task. It was investigated that majority of respondents were suffering from swelling of fingers, followed by needle piercing, cuts , burning and electric shock during ironing. In response the respondents were not paying any attention and were not using any protective measure while performing the sewing task. Respondents also revealed that apart from the injuries they were facing customer related problems which exhaust them and causes occupational stress. The common customer related problems were bargaining 83.75, urgency of demand, high expectation and low payment. These problems resulted in negative impact as stress 90, anxiety, household problems and so on. The respondents were paid very low as compared to the boutique rates which results in the dissatisfaction regarding the work in decreased production and low motivation. The respondents were suggested suitable measures to cope up with injuries and to lowering the stress for maintaining their health and for utilizing their proper potential for the accurate prices. [Keywords : Sewing task, Injuries, Protective measures, Customer related problems] CONTEMPORARY SOCIAL SCIENCES, Vol. 24, Number 3 July-September, 2015 M. Sc. Student, Department of Family Resource Management, I. C. College of Home Science, CCSHAU, Hisar, Haryana India E-mail: nehagahlot25gmail.com Sr. Scientist, Department of Family Resource Management, I. C. College of Home Science, CCSHAU, Hisar, Haryana India E-mail: mm1964rediffmail.com Professor, Department of Family Resource Management, I. C. College of Home Science, CCSHAU, Hisar, Haryana India E-mail: kiransingh.ingmail.com 1. Introduction Women have always been the major contributor to the household economy. Today women are called upon to undertake the dual role of looking after the family and its need, and also earn for the families maintenance, by taking up either full or part time work for wagessalaries. In the process of economic development, women’s role has been a major component Rashmi 2005. Many women undertake sewing activity as an entrepreneur. A large number of workers employed in sewing activity are unorganized labour and specially women who stitch garments at their home. Women represent a significant majority of the home workers who cut and stitch garments together for the global apparel trade and all these activities they perform at their home environment. Apart from the home environment, the workplace is the setting where many people spend a large proportion of their time. The boundary between their home and workplace environments is blurred for the household sewing workers. In recent years, the contribution of poor environmental conditions at the workplace, poor perception of work conditions, and presence of adverse health conditions in workers has received much attention. The nature of workplaces varies and therefore the determinants of occupational injury and morbidity also varies; identification of the responsible factors in any specific work environment would help in clarifying the etiology and would also be useful for prevention and containment of occupation-related ill health. Along with that sewing activity performed at home is not considered as a professional work, in such this condition the chances of misbehave or unfair wages are very common which leads to stress and other problems and lower level of satisfaction of work done. 2. Methodology The study was conducted with an objective to find out the extent of problems faced by the female sewing machine operators. The present study was conducted on 80 female sewing machine operators who were engaged in sewing activity from last 4 years for their financial welfare in the Hisar city of Haryana state. The study involved the collection of information regarding the injuries and accidents faced along with the problems faced the respondents related to the customers and the impact of the problems as well. It also included the customer satisfaction level regarding the payment of the work done. The information of the respondents was explored through the questionnaire cum interview schedule. 34 Neha Gahlot, Manju Mehta, Kiran Singh 3. Results and Discussion The sewing task was performed by the respondents at their own home, where the workplace and the home environment setup was overlapped, therefore no special attention was given for the proper workplace arrangements. The unorganized workplace and poor illumination was found which resulted into various injuriesaccidents while performing the sewing task. Almost all the workers experienced injuries during last 1 year. Frequencies of various locations occurred during sewing activity in last one year has been presented in Table-1. The accidents and injuries which occurred most frequently was swelling of fingers mean score 2.29 followed by needle piercing mean score 1.90, cuts mean score 1.60. The least frequent occurred accident injuries were burns while ironing mean score 1.12 and electric shock mean score1.10 as shown in Fig 1. The reasons of the injuries may be poor illumination and no use of protective measures while working. Desai et al. 2005 concluded that common sewing work accident was piercing of the needle through the fingers, particularly the right forefingers. Unsatisfactory man-machine incompatibility, work posture and fatigue, improper coordination of eye, leg and hand were the major problems of the operators. Table-1 : Frequency of injuriesaccidents occurred during sewing activity n=80 Injuries Very much Moderately Once a while Mean score Cuts 7 8.75 3442.50 39 48.75 1.60 Swelling of fingers 45 56.25 13 16.25 22 27.50 2.29 Needle piercing 19 23.75 34 42.50 27 33.75 1.90 Burns while ironing 10 12.50 70 87.50 1.12 Electric shock 8 10.00 72 90.00 1.10 Figures in parentheses indicates percentages Multiple Responses Sewing machine operators were facing problems due to the mis-behaviors of customer. These customers create problems for sewing machine operators knowingly or unknowingly. Table-2 showed that more than three fourth 83.75 of the sewing machine operators faced bargaining problem followed by Extent of Problems faced by Female Sewing Machine Workers 35 73.75 percent sewing machine operators who were facing problems of urgency in demand by the customers specially in marriage seasons and in festivals like holi, diwali etc. In this context the figure further revealed that more than half of the sewing machine operators 61.25 were facing problem of high expectations with low wages. Sewing machine operators also revealed that customers want a complex and innovative designs in their garments but they do not want to pay extra charges for it. About half of the sewing machine operators 53.75 were facing problem of late payment of the garments stitched garment while 46.25 were facing fitting problems in the garments as illustrated in Fig 2. Fig. 1-Frequency of injuriesaccidents occurred during sewing activity Fig. 2-Customer related problems Fig. 3-Impact of customer related problems 36 Neha Gahlot, Manju Mehta, Kiran Singh Table-2 : Customer related problems faced by the sewing machine operators n=80 Ill behavior Frequency Percentage Bargaining 67 83.75 Urgency in demand 59 73.75 High expectations with low rates 49 61.25 Late payment 43 53.75 Fitting problem 37 46.25 Multiple Responses Table-3 : Impact of customer related problems on sewing machine operator n =80 Result of stress Frequency Percentage Stress 72 90 Anxiety 68 85.00 Household problems 47 58.75 Decreased confidence 45 56.25 Delayed work 36 45.00 Multiple responses Table-3 disclosed that the customer related problems viz. late payment, fitting problems, bargaining urgency in demand, high expectations with low rates affected sewing machine operators and resulted in household problems, stress, delayed work, decreased confidence and anxiety in the sewing machine operators. The figure 4 unfolds that a huge sewing machine operators 90 were facing stress as a result of customer related problems followed by anxiety 85. It was further found that customer related problems resulted in household problems 58.75, decreased confidence 56.25 and delayed work 45 Extent of Problems faced by Female Sewing Machine Workers 37 among sewing machine operators. This may be because of the reason that the duration of the sewing activity was more and also sewing machine operators had to perform the household task along with the care of children, thus more burden of activities with lack of time resulted in above mentioned affects. All these resulted in irritation, decreased motivation, and lesser output among sewing machine operators. Fig. 4-Level of satisfaction felt by workers in terms of wages The results of fig. 4 shows that majority of the sewing machine operators 76 were unsatisfied with the wages stitching rates of the garments which they got, as there was tendency of customers to bargain with the sewing machine operators for stitching charges. Moreover customer want designing and had high expectations but they don’t want to pay for it. Customers had feeling that they pay less for designer suits to the female sewing machine operator as compared to the boutiques. The findings were in line with Singal and Srinivasan 1991 who observed that the women where self employed, earned the maximum, while earning from wages charges were minimum. Nearly, two third of the sewing machine operators expressed dissatisfaction from their paid work because of casual nature of work availability and low return for their work. 4. Conclusion The sewing task has become a necessary task to perform for the women to earn, to fed the family and fulfill their own need without depending on their 38 Neha Gahlot, Manju Mehta, Kiran Singh Satisfied Unsatisfied 76 24 husband or on another family member. This was also revealed that majority of women prefer sewing activity because for performing this task they use their skill at their own home. Hence they can take care of their family and can perform their task at a same place. With this advantage they do not realize their work as “work” and never get that attention and respect from the customers. Along with this a careless attitude towards their own health was seen. They do not pay any attention regarding their safety measures and required and standard workplace measures to be followed while performing the task which results in sort of injuries and accidents which could be minimized through improved environmental conditions and use of protective equipments. The unprofessional attitude of the respondents allow the customers to misbehave with them that results in customer related problems which was found more in festive seasons. These problems creates negative impact on the behavior of the respondents and causes stress and other psychological problems which ruin the peace of their life. Respondents do not get the fair amount of payment they are working for, which creates a dissatisfaction that leads to lower motivation and decreased production. Therefore respondents should maintain the required standards of workplace which includes proper illumination level, use of protective measures, maintainace or replacement of distorted wires which causes electric shock. These measures are not costly but can results in better and improved conditions. Respondents should attain a professional attitude to avoid the customer related problem and should not entertain such customers who are annoying. The over burden should be avoided to reduce the stress and anxiety and should provide more time for their family and for themselves. To avoid the dissatisfaction of payment the respondents should strictly follow the fix rate price and avoid bargaining. These measures are very minor but can help to avoid problems regarding to sewing task which enhance the level of motivation for the sewing task. References Sarder, B., Sheik N. Imrhan and Nabeel Mandahawi, “Ergonomic workplace evaluation of an Asian garment-factory”, Journal of Human Ergology, Vol. 35 1-2, 2006, 45-51. Extent of Problems faced by Female Sewing Machine Workers 39 Nag, A., Desai, H. and Nag, P. K., “Work stress of women in sewing machine operation”, Journal of Human Ergology, Vol. 211, 1992, 126-134. Desai, “Work stress of women in sewing machine operation”, Journal of Human Ergology , Vol. 211, 1992. 126-134. Singal, Savita and Srinivasan, Kamla, “Drudgery of women’s household work in rural areas”, Journal of Research, Haryana Agricultural Univiversity, Vol. 21 2, June 1991, 168-172. ê 40 Neha Gahlot, Manju Mehta, Kiran Singh Article Received on May 23, 2015; Accepted on June 05, 2015 5 Consumer Acceptance of Prepared Patchwork Cushion Covers with Kantha Embroidery Chhavi Gangwar and Harinder Kaur Saggu For this study, three localities from Ludhiana city were selected randomly and a total of 30 female respondents between 25-35 years of age group were selected through purposive random sampling technique. Different shapes of cushion covers, namely rectangular, triangular, square, oval, star and heart were designed and prepared. Consumer acceptance of the prepared cushion covers was evaluated on the basis of different decorative features, utility and price. Profit margin of the prepared cushion covers was also calculated. The data revealed that majority of the respondents preferred square shape cushion cover on the basis of suitability of shapes for different rooms, designs, colour combinations, overall appearance, utility and price; whereas only oval shape cushion cover got first rank on the basis of embellishment. All the cushion covers were liked by the majority of the respondents and the quoted prices were found to be adequate. The profit margin for prepared cushion covers ranged between 23.33 to 31.25 per cent. Thus it was easy to earn 30 per cent profit on all the cushion covers. [Keywords : Consumer, Patchwork, Kantha embroidery, Cushion covers, Profit margin] 1. Introduction Embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn. In India, embroidered articles still retain the old CONTEMPORARY SOCIAL SCIENCES, Vol. 24, Number 3 July-September, 2015 M.Sc Student, Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home-Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, Punjab India E-mail: chhavigangwar gmail.com Professor, Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home-Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, Punjab India E-mail: harsagguctpau.edu social values. It is the most exciting and satisfying crafts of today. Presently, changes have come in almost all the embroideries with respect to threads, colours and quality. Embroidery work has been mostly done by women and girls. It has played an important role in feminine education. It is acknowledged as of oriental origin and India is said to be one of its original home. Embroidery has always played a very important part in our Indian societies. Whether in rural and urban lives, embroidered goodstextiles figures in our wedding as dowry, religious ceremonies and almost all auspicious occasions and festivities and also as group or region identifier. Richly embroidered textiles using precious gems, gold and silver threads and pearls, etc. were worn by the kings and royalty, adorned their walls, beds and thrones. Of course, our embroidered textiles were a great source of income and helped us in trading with other countries since ancient times. Bengal has an old tradition of kantha embroidery. The word kantha itself means patched cloth. It is usually done in simple running and darning stitches. Kanthas were embroidered with words of love and good wishes and sometimes even the name of the embroiderer was embroidered along with the design. Each kantha was a human documents, telling the tale of the embroiderer’s patient work and love of beauty. The art of kantha has been carried forward from generation to generation. The motifs not only range from natural figures like flowers, leaves, trees, birds and animals besides human figures but also expresses social and religious belief. Patchwork consists of stitching together, by various means, pieces of fabric of different colours, shapes and sizes to make an attractive whole. It was one of the old thrift crafts in the days when it was necessary to use up every scrap or fabric. Presently our daily lives are full of colour and pattern. Patchwork has been given new vitality by the wide selection of colours and fabrics that are readily available in the shops. Today the art of patchwork is having a great revival. Not because there is really a practical need, but because it still has the same attractions. 2. Objectives of the Study The present study has been undertaken with the following objectives : 1. To design and prepare cushion covers in six different shapes. 2. To study the consumer acceptance of prepared cushion covers. 3. Material and Methods A total of six designs in six different shapes of cushion covers viz., RE, TR , SQ, OV, ST and HE were prepared using patchwork technique with kantha 42 Chhavi Gangwar and Harinder Kaur Saggu embroidery Fig A. These cushion covers were evaluated on the basis of suitability of shapes for different rooms, designs, colour combinations, embellishments, overall appearance, utility and price. Profit margin for the prepared cushion covers was calculated. To study the acceptability of prepared cushion covers, a sample of 30 female respondents was selected. The respondents were selected through purposive random sampling technique. An evaluation sheet was prepared to get the requisite information. The data collected from respondents were coded, tabulated and analyzed. The frequencies were calculated first and then the weighted mean score was calculated by giving maximum marks to the most preferred and minimum marks to the least preferred. The scores were computed and given ranks. a b c d e f Fig A : Prepared designs of cushion covers in six different shapes 4. Results and Discussion The results obtained from the study as well as relevant discussion have been summarized under following sub-heads : 4.1 Evaluation of Prepared Cushion Covers After preparing cushion covers, their evaluation was done on the basis of various parameters. For evaluation, these cushion covers were shown to a sample of thirty respondents. Data in Table-1 on next page reveal that, SQ and OV designs of square shape and oval shape cushion covers were ranked first on Consumer Acceptance of Prepared Patchwork Cushion Covers 43 the basis of design with weighted mean score of 4.40 each. Design RE,TR and ST of rectangular, triangular and star shape cushion covers were placed as third, fourth and fifth rank, in a sequential order. Cushion cover HE in heart shape was least preferred by the respondents on the basis of design. Table-1 : Evaluation of Prepared Cushion Covers on the basis of Design n=30 Shapes and design codes of cushions WMS Rank Rectangular RE 3.83 III Triangular TR 3.43 IV Square SQ 4.40 I Oval OV 4.40 I Star ST 2.83 V Heart HE 2.10 VI WMS : Weighted Mean Score Data pertaining to preferences of the respondents regarding colour combination of the prepared cushion covers have been presented in Table-2 . It is evident from the data that, design SQ of square shape cushion cover was given the first rank on the basis of colour combination. Design TR and OV were given second rank with weighted mean score of 4.06 each, followed by, design RE, ST and HE were placed at fourth, fifth and sixth rank, respectively. Table-2 : Evaluation of Prepared Cushion Covers on the basis of Colour Combination n=30 Shapes and design codes of cushions WMS Rank Rectangular RE 3.93 IV Triangular TR 4.06 II Square SQ 4.30 I Oval OV 4.06 II Star ST 2.43 V Heart HE 2.23 VI WMS : Weighted Mean Score Data in Table-3 on next page revealed that OV design of oval shape cushion cover embellished with mirrors and stones, was ranked first. It was followed by design SQ of square shape, RE of rectangular shape and TR of triangular shape cushion covers, which were embellished with mirrors, swarovski and tassels and 44 Chhavi Gangwar and Harinder Kaur Saggu were given second, third and fourth rank, respectively. Design ST of star shape and HE of heart shape cushion covers were least preferred by the respondents on the basis of embellishment. Table-3 : Evaluation of Prepared Cushion Covers on the basis of Embellishments n=30 Shapes and Design Codes of Cushions WMS Rank Rectangular RE 3.80 III Triangular TR 2.83 IV Square SQ 4.76 II Oval OV 4.80 I Star ST 2.63 V Heart HE 2.23 VI WMS : Weighted Mean Score Regarding overall appearance, data presented in Table-4 depict that design SQ of square shape cushion cover was first preferred by majority of the respondents with mean score 4.40. Second rank was given to the design OV of oval shape cushion cover with mean score 4.36 and third rank was given to the RE of rectangular shape cushion cover with mean score 4.03. Respondents gave fourth rank to the design TR with mean score of 3.06. Fifth and sixth rank were given to design ST and HE of star and heart shape cushion covers with mean score 3.03 and 2.10, respectively. Table-4 : Evaluation of Prepared Cushion Covers on the basis of overall Appearance n=30 Shapes and Design Codes of Cushions WMS Rank Rectangular RE 4.03 III Triangular TR 3.06 IV Square SQ 4.40 I Oval OV 4.36 II Star ST 3.03 V Heart HE 2.10 VI WMS : Weighted Mean Score Preferences of the respondents for various shapes of cushion covers on the basis of their utility have been presented in Table-5. Majority of the respondents given first rank to design SQ of square shape cushion cover on the basis of utility with mean score 5.56, followed by RE and OV shaped with mean score 4.83 and Consumer Acceptance of Prepared Patchwork Cushion Covers 45 4.13, respectively. Cushion covers of TR, ST and HE shaped were least preferred by the respondents with mean score 2.50, 2.03 and 1.93, respectively. Table-5 : Evaluation of Prepared Cushion Covers on the basis of Utility n=30 Shapes and Design Codes of Cushions WMS Rank Rectangular RE 4.83 II Triangular TR 2.50 IV Square SQ 5.56 I Oval OV 4.13 III Star ST 2.03 V Heart HE 1.93 VI WMS : Weighted Mean Score Data in Table-6 reveal that majority 83.33 of the respondents were of the opinion that rectangular shaped cushion cover were suitable for bedrooms of elderly persons, followed by 63.33 who considered it suitable for an adults’ room, while fifty per cent of the respondents found it appropriate for teenagers’ room. The least percentages of the respondents preferred its suitability for kids’ room 33.33, living room 26.67 and drawing room 16.67, respectively. Table-6 : Preferences of Respondents regarding Suitability of Cushion Covers for different Rooms n=30 Shapes and Design Codes of Cushions Drawing room Living room Bedrooms Kids Teenager s Adults Elderly persons f f f f f f Rectangular RE 5 16.67 8 26.67 10 33.33 15 50.00 19 63.33 25 83.33 Triangular TR 16 53.33 9 30.00 22 73.33 18 60.00 4 13.33 Square SQ 28 93.33 22 73.33 13 43.33 12 40.00 22 73.33 20 66.66 Oval OV 18 60.00 19 63.33 24 80.00 6 20.00 4 13.33 10 33.33 Star ST 13 43.33 14 46.67 27 90.00 25 83.33 8 26.67 Heart HE 17 56.66 19 63.33 24 80.00 26 86.67 5 16.66 f-frequency Multiple responses 46 Chhavi Gangwar and Harinder Kaur Saggu In case of triangular shaped cushion cover 73.33 per cent of the respondents preferred it for kids’ room, sixty per cent considered it suitable for teenagers’ room and nearly fifty four per cent of the respondents found it appropriate for drawing room. The least percentages of the respondents preferred its suitability for living room 30.00 and an adults’ room 13.33, respectively. Regarding suitability of square shaped cushion cover in different rooms the data show that majority 93.33 of the respondents preferred it for drawing room, followed by an equal percentage 73.33 of the respondents for living room and an adults’ room. Nearly sixty seven per cent of the respondents found it appropriate for bedroom of elderly persons. Suitability of this shape considered for kids’ and teenagers’ room by 43.33 and forty per cent of the respondents, respectively. Majority 80.00 of the respondents considered the suitability of oval shaped cushion cover for kids’room, followed by living room 63.33 and drawing room 60.00 . Nearly thirty four per cent of the respondents found it appropriate for elderly persons’ room. The least percentages of the respondents preferred its suitability for teenagers’ room 20.00 and an adults’ room 13.33, respectively. In case of star shaped cushion cover ninty per cent of the respondents preferred it for kids’ room, followed by 83.33 per cent considered it suitable for teenagers’ room. Suitability of this shape considered for living and drawing room by 46.67 and forty four per cent of the respondents, respectively. The least percentages 26.67 of the respondents preferred its suitability for an adults’ room. Regarding suitability of heart shaped cushion cover in different rooms the data shows that majority 86.67 of the respondents preferred it for teenagers’ room, followed by eighty per cent considered it suitable for kids’room. Suitability of this shape considered for living and drawing room by 63.33 and fifty seven per cent of the respondents, respectively. Nearly seventeen per cent of the respondents found it appropriate for an adults’ room. The opinion of the respondents regarding prepared cushion covers was taken on the basis of three categories: ‘Very good’, ‘Good’ and ‘Fair’. Data in Table-7 on next page revealed that 33.33 per cent of the respondents rated rectangular shaped cushion cover RE, as ‘Very good’. It was considered Consumer Acceptance of Prepared Patchwork Cushion Covers 47 ‘Good’ by 60.00 per cent of the respondents. Only 6.67 per cent of the respondents rated it as ‘Fair’. Table-7 : Opinion of Respondents for Prepared Cushion Cover by using Patchwork with Kantha Embroidery n=30 Shapes and Design Codes of Cushions Very good Good Fair f f f Rectangular RE 10 33.33 18 60.00 2 6.67 Triangular TR 15 50.00 11 36.67 4 13.33 Square SQ 18 60.00 10 33.33 2 6.67 Oval OV 17 56.67 12 40.00 1 3.33 Star ST 15 50.00 12 40.00 3 10.00 Heart HE 10 33.33 15 50.00 5 16.67 f- frequency Nearly fifty per cent of the respondents graded triangular shaped cushion cover TR as ‘Very good’, while 36.67 per cent of the respondents considered these as ‘Good’. However, only 13.33 per cent of the respondents considered it as ‘Fair’. In case of square shaped cushion cover SQ, sixty per cent of the respondents rated it as ‘Very good’. It was rated as ‘Good’ by 33.33 per cent of the respondents, while 6.67 per cent of the respondents rated it as ‘Fair’. The respondents liked this cushion cover because of its colour, utility and unique design. Nearly fifty seven per cent of the respondents considered oval shaped cushion cover OV as ‘Very good’,followed by 40.00 per cent respondents as ‘Good’. Only 3.33 per cent of the respondents rated it as ‘Fair’. Majority of the respondent liked it and found it to be innovative, attractive and unique. In case of star shaped cushion cover ST, fifty per cent of the respondents rated it as ‘Very good’. It was considered ‘Good’ by forty per cent of the respondents. Only ten per cent of the respondents rated it as ‘Fair’. Nearly thirty three per cent of the respondents graded heart shaped cushion cover HE as ‘Very good’, while fifty per cent of the respondents considered these as ‘Good’. However, only 16.67 per cent of the respondents considered it as ‘Fair’. 4 .2 Assessment of Consumer Acceptance for prepared Cushion Covers Quoted prices for all the cushion covers were adequate, however nearly one sixth of the respondents felt that the quoted price for cushion cover were 48 Chhavi Gangwar and Harinder Kaur Saggu high. As the calculated z- values of comparison between high and adequate low were found to be significant at 5 level of significance Table-8, it was clear that quoted price for patchwork with kantha embroidered cushion cover was acceptable to the consumers. Table-8 : Opinion of respondents regarding quoted price of prepared cushion covers n=30 Shapes and Design Codes of Cushions Quoted Price of the Article in ` No. of respondents for suitability of the quoted price Z value High Adequate Low Rectangular RE 420 5 16.67 19 63.33 6 20.00 3.77 Triangular TR 475 8 26.67 18 60.00 4 13.33 2.66 Square SQ 480 6 20.00 21 70.00 3 10.00 3.33 Oval OV 470 5 16.67 21 70.00 4 13.33 3.77 Star ST 330 4 13.33 18 60.00 8 26.67 4.11 Heart HE 415 8 33.33 20 66.67 2 6.67 2.66 indicate significance of value at P=0.05, respectively Data in Table-9 show the assessment of per cent profit of the prepared cushion covers. Profit margin ranged from 23.33 to 31.25 per cent for the prepared cushion covers. Calculated z-values for the profit margins of the prepared cushion covers were found to be significant at 5 level. Table-9 : Assessment of the Profit Margins of the Prepared Cushion Covers n=30 Shapes and design codes of cushions Cost price ` Quoted price ` Average selling price ` Percentage profit Z – value Rectangular RE 320 420 468 31.25 17.72 Triangular TR 365 475 448 30.14 11.24 Square SQ 368 480 474 23.33 13.48 Oval OV 360 470 465 30.55 13.12 Star ST 255 330 454 29.41 14.48 Heart HE 320 415 425 29.68 8.45 indicate significance of value at P=0.05, respectively Consumer Acceptance of Prepared Patchwork Cushion Covers 49 5. Conclusion Respondents selected randomly for studying the acceptance of prepared cushion covers. Evaluation of these cushion covers was done on the basis of suitability of shapes for different rooms, designs, colour combinations, embellishments, overall appearance, utility and price. It was observed that majority of the respondents was given first rank to square shape cushion cover on the basis of suitability of shapes for different rooms, designs, colour combinations, overall appearance, utility and price whereas only oval shape cushion cover got first rank on the basis of embellishment. All the cushion covers were liked by the majority of the respondents. Regarding profit margins, higher profit was possible on selling prepared cushion cover RE. Consumers were willing to pay the quoted price for all the cushion covers. Majority of the respondents found the quoted selling prices of the prepared cushion covers as adequate. References Anonymous 2009 Embroidery in India.www.indianetzone.com1embroidery. html. Endacott, V. M., Design in Embroidery, New York : The Macmillian Company, 1964, 37-43, 119-27. Goodman, L., All About Patchwork, London : Marshall Cavendish Books Limited, 1982, 2-5. Ghosh, G., “Social expression of nakshi Kantha of Bengal’’, Khadigramudyog, Vol. 40, 2001, 392-93. Healey, F., The Harmony Guide to Decorative Needlecraft, London : Lyric Books Limited, 1993, 57. Jha N 2013 Handicraft. http:www.importantindia.com . Kaur, J., Development of new designs of Sindhi embroidery for housewives for their personal and household use , M. Sc. thesis, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, India, 1999. Mookerjee, A., Folk Art of Bengal, Calcutta : Calcutta University Press, 1996, 11-27. ê 50 Chhavi Gangwar and Harinder Kaur Saggu Article Received on May 15, 2015; Accepted on June 05, 2015 6 The Impact of Employee Attitudes toward Social Media on Employee Engagement with Computer-Mediated Communication considered as a Moderatoring Factor Min-Li Hung , I-Feng Lee and Zih-Yu Chen The popularization of social media has made it more than a tool for maintaining personal contacts as it has also become increasingly important as a means of organizational communication. The use of social media may also potentially affect employee work attitudes, such as employee engagement. This study examined the relationship between user attitudes toward Line Messenger, a highly popular social media application, and employee engagement through a survey of insurance sales team members. In addition, because using social media relies largely on the application of new technologies, it is expected that an employee’s ability to engage in computer-mediated communication CMC would also have an impact on the aforementioned relationship. As such, this study also explored the moderating role of CMC competency on the relationship. The analysis results show that user attitudes toward social media have a positive relationship on employee engagement. However, the theorized moderating effect of CMC competency on the relationship between user attitudes and employee engagement was not statistically significant. Finally, specific conclusions and recommendations for the organization and management of subsequent related research studies are also provided. [Keywords : Attitudes toward social media, Job engagement, Organization engagement, Computer-mediated communication] 1. Introduction A number of social media applications, including Facebook, Twitter, WhatsApp, and Line Messenger, among others, have been rapidly adopted by CONTEMPORARY SOCIAL SCIENCES, Vol. 24, Number 3 July-September, 2015 Department of Information and Communication, Southern Taiwan University of Science and Technology, Taiwan R. O. C. E-mail: mindyhung513mail.stust.edu.tw users of all ages, forcing us to change how we think about communication. While professional researchers and the public have shown a high degree of interest in the use of social media among college students Abramson, 2011; Kamenetz, 2011, there have been only a limited number of studies regarding the use of social media use in the workplace. However, it is already clear that workplace usage of social networks presents workers with previously unknown ways of communicating with both co-workers and customers when asking questions or sharing information DiMicco, Geyer, Millen, Dugan, Brownholtz, 2008. Relatedly, it is likewise clear that the number of people who use social media for both interpersonal and intra-organizational communication is substantially higher than the number of people who use social media for interpersonal communication alone. According to the literature, communication via social media has become the most popular means of communication, surpassing in-person, e-mail, and telephone communications in how frequently it is used Tossell, Kortum, Shepard, Barg-Walkow, Rahmati and Zhong, 2012. Among various forms of social media, Line Messenger is an application that provides users with a combination of text and voice messaging services, in addition to allowing the transmission of files between users. Employee engagement, meanwhile, which is described as the degree to which employees are intellectually and emotionally committed to the organizations at which they work, is not a new concept, but rather one that has long been viewed as important to studies of organizational behavior Richman, 2006; Shaw, 2005. In effect, employee engagement can be viewed as the passion of employees for their work Truss, Soane, Edwards, Wisdom, and Burnett, 2006. Moreover, the issue of employee engagement now has even greater relevance as employers are struggling with the question of whether or not to let employees use social media in the workplace. At the same time, though, many managers who are members of younger generations are already strongly inclined toward using social media for team communications. 2. Research Questions Based on the discussion above, the first research motivation for the present study was to examine the relationship between usageattitude of Line Messenger, one of the most popular forms of social media, and employee engagement among insurance sales team members. In addition, because using social media relies largely on the application of new technologies, it is expected 52 Min-Li Hung, I-Feng Lee and Zih-Yu Chen that an employee’s ability to engage in computer-mediated communication CMC would have an impact on the aforementioned relationship. Therefore, the second research motivation of this study was to explore the moderating role of CMC competency on the relationship. To be specific, we sought to answer the following research questions through a quantitative study of the insurance industry: RQ1: Do attitudes toward using Line Messenger affect employee engagement? RQ2: Does the level of a employee online experience moderate the relationship between user attitudes toward Line Messenger and employee engagement? 3. Literature Review As we now know, most social networking sites started out by focusing on student use Peluchette and Karl, 2008. However, the use of such sites, which first became commercially available over a decade ago, has quickly grown far more widespread. Although enterprise acceptance of novel technologies frequently lags behind the acceptance and use of new technologies among students Lovejoy and Grudin, 2003, a growing number of studies have begun exploring the impacts of using social networking sites in the workplace Skeels and Grudin, 2009. 3.1 Using Social Media in Workplace Social networking sites SNSs and social networking apps are web-based services that make it possible for individuals to 1 set up a public or semi-public profile in the context of the given networking system, 2 create a list of contacts consisting of other users with whom they share friendships or other connections, and 3 view and interact with that list of contacts within the given system Steinfield, Ellison, and Lampe, 2008. With the rise of smart phones and the mobile internet, SNSs have effectively begun to overlap with social networking apps, with both the apps and SNSs being forms of social media. Broadly speaking, web-based and mobile technologies that can be used to allow communication in the form of an interactive dialogue can be referred to as social media. In this sense, social media, when viewed as media for social interactions, constitute a superset that goes beyond more traditional forms of social communication. As such, the The Impact of Employee Attitudes toward Social Media 53 widespread use of social media has radically altered the ways in which both individuals and large organizations communicate Kietzmann, Hermkens, and McCarthy, 2011. In this study, we have considered social media in general instead of SNSs in order to be consistent with most related studies, the reasoning being that although there are few differences between SNSs and other forms of social media http:socialmediatoday.comindex.php?q=SMC194754, they do overlap in various regards. Specifically, the Line Messenger application was the technology on which the present study focused. Most of the extant social media research has investigated issues relating to identity presentation, interpersonal relationships, and privacy concerns, drawing their sample data primarily from college students. In recent years, however, the use of social media has become widespread among people of almost all ages. For business organizations in particular, social media has become widely used in marketing e.g., Facebook and Line Messenger and human resources e.g., recruitment. Business organizations should use new technologies to stay competitive, and social media is one more tool that may serve the marketing and communication needs of a company Weiss, 2011. Moreover, given the volatility of current business environments, adept use of social media can provide shrewd leaders and organizations with various opportunities to achieve advantages over their competitors. Certainly, the increased use of social media is hastening and augmenting the levels of engagement, innovation, and performance among employees of countless companies Jue, Marr, Kassotakis, 2010. 3.2 Attitudes toward Line Messenger and Employee Engagement Because of its value to both organizations and their employees, the topic of employee engagement has been studied extensively for many years. Kahn 1992 provided one previous definition of employee engagement, describing it as the degree to which the employees or members of an organization devote themselves to their work roles. When engaged in performing their work roles, people expend their efforts and express themselves in a variety of ways, including cognitively, physically, and emotionally. Meyer and Allen 1991 further predicted that engagement plays a role in employee turnover and other employment-related outcomes. One of the key components of organizational commitment, according to Meyer and Allen 1991, is affective commitment, a concept which refers to the degree to which employees are emotionally attached to, or otherwise identify with, the organizations they work for. Recently, organizational studies have evolved from 54 Min-Li Hung, I-Feng Lee and Zih-Yu Chen a focus on organizational commitment to a greater focus on employee engagement, shifting their investigative aims toward achieving a better understanding of the relationships between employee engagement, organizational inputs, and employee behaviors Richman, 2006; Harter, Schmidt and Hayes, 2002. In that context, previous studies have mentioned that there are two subtypes of employee engagement, namely, organization engagement and job engagement Saks, 2006, which are most commonly used. The concept of attitude is derived from the theory of reasoned action TRA. Allport 1935 defined attitudes as psychological and mental states based on experiences, as such states will influence reactions toward things and situations. Fishbein and Ajzen 1975 defined attitude as a consistent position toward something through learning. Therefore, attitude is the positive or negative evaluation or feelings toward people and things. Job satisfaction, job involvement, and organizational commitment are job attitudes explored by most studies of organizational behavior Brooke, Russell, and Price, 1988; Kirkman and Shapiro, 2001. Fishbein and Ajzen 1975 reported that broad attitudes were very strong predictors of broad behavioral outcomes, including employee engagement Newman, Joseph, and Hulin, 2010. Employee engagement is composed of both job engagement and organizational engagement Saks, 2006. At some point, all communication technologies are foreign to users. If social media users have positive attitudes toward Line Messenger, then they should also exhibit high levels of satisfaction, involvement, and engagement with the application Ellison, 2007. Ross, Orr, Sisic, Arseeault, Sim mer ing, and Orr 2009 stated that at ti tudes to ward Line Mes sen ger world in flu ence the Line Mes sen ger use. There fore, we pro pose the fol low ing hy poth e sis : H1 : User attitudes toward Line Messenger will be positively related to employee engagement. 3.3 Computer-Mediated Communication CMC Spitzberg 2006 stated that competency is among the key determinants of technology usage. To put that another way, it has been suggested that, given enough time and sufficient experience with a given communication technology, individuals will often begin to, in effect, ignore the technology; i.e., they will use the technology to communicate without even thinking about what they are using to communicate Lewis and Fabos, 2005. Accordingly, a person’s skill level, The Impact of Employee Attitudes toward Social Media 55 motivation, and efficacy in using a given communication technology should be taken into consideration Spitzberg, 2006. In a study of student samples, Bryant, Sanders-Jackson, and Smallwood 2006 found that adolescents exhibited high willingness to master new communication technologies that would enable them to better communicate with their friends and other peers outside of school. Therefore, competency is an important factor affecting technology use. One of the most well-known measures of competence in CMC was developed by Spitzberg 2006 and contains three dimensions of competence: motivation, knowledge, and efficacy. Although Line Messenger became available four years ago, it is still new for certain types of employees such as older employees or those less experienced with the internet. Therefore, if a team leader sends information through Line Messenger, employees with high CMC competency will probably exhibited higher intensity usage of and attitudes toward using Line Messenger, which would in turn result higher employee engagement. Hence, the following is proposed : H2 : The level of a employee online experience will moderate the relationship between user attitudes toward Line Messenger and employee engagement. Based on the discussion above, the research model of the present study is illustrated as below : Figure-1 : Research model 4. Sampling According to data retrieved from at-blog.line.metw, there are over 17 million registered users in Taiwan. 50.8 are male and 49.2 are female. Moreover, 18.7 of active users are within the age range of 20-29 years old, 23.2 are within the age range of 30-39, and 20.3 are within the age range of 40-49. There are over 4 million registered users of Line Messenger. 56 Min-Li Hung, I-Feng Lee and Zih-Yu Chen Attitude of Line Messenger Employee Engagement • Job Engagement • Organizational Engagement CMC The data samples for the present study came from life insurance agents whose team leaders use Line Messenger for team communication. There were two reasons why life insurance agents were chosen as the study subjects. First, the job of insurance agent is one that typically requires a high level of mobility. Accordingly, insurance agents rely on the internet for team communication instead of engaging in face-to-face communication. Second, a team leader typically only meets his team members in person once a week. As such, team leaders could use Line Messenger to communicate with his team members efficiently. Lastly, the work of insurance is with high pressure Darymple and Cron, 1998; McManus Kelly, 1999, and an agent’s en gage ment to ward the job and or ga ni za tion could thus have a sig nif i cant ef fect on per for mance. 5. Measures Four constructs were measured: user attitudes toward Line Messenger, employee engagement in terms of job engagement and organization engagement, and CMC competence. Measure items for the research were from prior studies which used in attitude of Line Messenger and employee engagement and reworded to specifically relate to the purpose of the present study. Responses for all the items corresponded to a five-point Likert scale ranging from strongly disagree =1 to strongly agree =5. 6. Research Findings A total of 335 respondents participated in the study. Table-1 presents the mean, standard deviation, and intercorrelation values and Cronbach’s α of the study variables. According to Nunnally 1978, Cronbach’s α values greater than 0.7 represent a high degree of confidence, so the study design of the questionnaire included question items with a high degree of internal consistency. Table-1 is notable in that it shows positive correlations among the study variables. The correlation coefficient between LINE attitude and employee engagement was 0.319 p 0.01, indicating a significant positive relationship. The correlation coefficient between employee engagement and CMC was 0.325 p 0.01, which also indicates a highly significant positive relationship. Finally, the correlation coefficient between LINE attitude and CMC was 0.316 p 0.01, which also indicates a significant positive relationship. Table-2 shows that the line attitude variable positively related to the employee engagement β = 0.299, p 0.000. Hypothesis 1 is supported. However, the moderaing effect of CMC variable toward the relationship The Impact of Employee Attitudes toward Social Media 57 between Line Messanger Attitude and the job engagement is not signficant β = 0.002., p .05. Hyothesis 2 is rejected. Table-1 : Descriptive statistics and correlations among study variables N = 335 M SD A1 B1 C1 A1. LINE attitude 3.8475 .64034 .933 B1. Employee engagement 4.1415 .50106 .319 .891 C1. CMC 3.3867 .44995 316 .325 .814 p0.05; p 0.01; Diagonal value for Cronbach’s Alpha Table-2 : Descriptive statistics and correlations among study variables N = 335 Predictor variables entered p Standardized â R Adjusted R 2 F LINE attitude .000 .299 .487 .221 .000 LINE attitude x CMC .963 .002 .487 .218 .963 p0.05 7. Discussions and Conclusions This study establishes the significant effect of social media on employee engagement. Ac cord ing to the study data, how ever, CMC com pe tence does not sig nif i cantly mod er ate the re la tion ship be tween so cial me dia and em ployee en gage ment. It can be con cluded, there fore, that so cial me dia is a vi tal fac tor in em ployee en gage ment. More over, while CMC com pe tence does not ap pear to mod er ate the re la tion ship be tween so cial me dia and em ployee en gage ment, this may be be cause most peo ple are al ready used to us ing com put ers to com mu ni cate with oth ers, such that CMC is al ready a well-es tab lished as pect of mod ern life. That be ing said, fu ture re search could in ves ti gate whether job sat is fac tion or or ga ni za tional iden ti fi ca tion func tion as mod er a tors of the afore men tioned re la tion ship. Acknowledgements This research was supported in part by Ministry of Science and Technology MSC of the Republic of China under Grant Number 103-2815-C-218-002-H. 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Zhong, “ A longitudinal study of emoticon use in text messaging from smartphones’’, Computers in Human Behavior , 282, 2012, 659-663. Truss, K., E. Soane, C. L. Edwards, K. Wisdom, A. Croll and J. Burnett, Working life : Employee attitudes and engagement , London : Chartered Institute of Personnel and Development, 2006. Weiss, M., “ The use of social media sites data by business organizations in their relationship with employees’’, Journal of Internet Law, 152, 2011, 16-27. ê 60 Min-Li Hung, I-Feng Lee and Zih-Yu Chen Article Received on June 18, 2015; Accepted on July 15, 2015 7 Evaluation of the Prepared kurtis on the basis of the Consumer Acceptance Manpreet Kaur and Kanwaljit Kaur Brar Phulkari embroidered kurtis were systematically designed and evaluated to assess the cost effectiveness and consumer acceptance. The silhouette of the prepared kurti K 11 was most preferred by the college going girls with mean score 3.20 which obtained first rank. Motifs as well as colour combinations of kurti K 20 mean score 3.10 each were most preferred by the respondents. Kurtis K 11 and K 20 mean score 3.66 each obtained first rank for overall preferences. Kurtis K 8 , K 16 , K 20 mean score 2.46 each were liked most for the embellishments. The quoted prices for the prepared kurti design K 3 , K8, K 11 were found to be adequate with profit margins of 28.38, 27.87, and 29.64, respectively. The cost of production is expected to be lower on being mass produced. [ Keywords : Kurti, Phulkari, Motifs, Design features, Consumer] 1. Introduction Designer kurti has emerged as a fashion trend in recent times. Women of all age groups feel comfortable and confident wearing the Indian tunic when worn with a pair of jeans. Indian tunics or kurtis are available in different prints and patterns. Designs of kurtis vary depending on the embroidery work, fabric and colour palette. The fashion designers and manufactures of Indian tunic consider the latest fashion trends, pantone colour chart and fabrics while designing kurtis Anon, 2013a. The connecting threads of traditional embroideries are getting a chic makeover as more and more fashion designers are incorporating them in CONTEMPORARY SOCIAL SCIENCES, Vol. 24, Number 3 July-September, 2015 M.Sc Student, Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home-Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana-141004, Punjab India E-mail: 1234siddu gmail.com Professor, Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home-Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, Punjab India E-mail: kanwaljitctpau.edu their signature collections. In a reinterpretation of traditional craftsmanship during contemporary times. Craft persons and designers from other countries often seek inspiration from traditional craft of phulkari in contemporary silhouettes Anon, 2013b. According to Singh and Brar 2002, women made sure to use phulkari during the ceremonies of Vattana rubbing of gram flour paste to clean skin, Nai-dhoi bathing, Jago cultural procession from door to door in the village, start of marriage party’s procession from home, doli reception of bride in her new home, etc. besides the phera ceremony during marriage. The phulkaris were considered the symbol of marital bliss and prosperity. Even a phulkari was used to cover the pyre of the women whose husband was alive. Thus, there was not an occasion when phulkaris were not used. It is considered auspicious for the bride and for the new born and worn on all ceremonies. Phulkari for some time now is also being used in home furnishings specially wall hangings, sofa throws and other soft furnishings. These were embroidered by the women to meet the needs of other family members, and were not for sale in the market. Thus, Phulkari was purely a domestic art which not only satisfied their inner urge for creation, but brought colour into the day to day life. In a way, it was true folk art. Custom had grown to give Phulkari and Bagh to brides at the time of marriages Anon, 2010b. 2. Objectives The present study has been undertaken with the following objectives : 1. To study the consumer acceptance of kurtis prepared on the basis of consumer preference. 2. To assess of cost effectiveness of the prepared kurtis 3. Methodology The evaluation prepared designer kurtis with respect to suitability, design features of kurtis, adapted phulkari motifs and designs designed by the investigator was done besides, the acceptance of designed kurtis by the respondents. A sub-sample of the thirty respondents was randomly selected from the previously selected ninety respondents to study their views regarding the prepared kurtis. Prepared kurtis were shown to the sub sample of thirty respondents for assessment of the silhouettes, colour combinations, surface embellishments, overall impact, and price and getting their opinion regarding various parameters mentioned above. To assess the cost effectiveness of the 62 Manpreet Kaur and Kanwaljit Kaur Brar prepared kurtis the cost, quoted price, selling price were calculated. Cost of the kurtis included the cost of the raw materials and supporting fabrics, sewing threads, embellishments, etc used and labour involved. Then, value of each article, known as quoted price, was computed by adding thirty per cent profit to the cost price of each kurti. Opinion of the respondents regarding quoted price was taken. The respondents were then asked to give a suitable price for buying the particular articles. The average selling price was the mean value of the price at which the target consumers were willing to buy the designed product. To evaluate the prepared kurtis for studying the consumer acceptance, the data pertaining to the present study were coded, tabulated and analyzed statistically by using percentages, scores and mean scores. 4. Research Findings and Discussion The innovatively designed phulkari kurtis were highly appreciated and their preferences with respect to various aspects have been presented below : 4.1 Preferences for the Silhouettes of the Prepared Kurtis Preferences of the college-going girls for the silhouettes of the prepared kurtis indicated that kurti K 11 was most preferred with mean score 3.20 followed by K 15 which was ranked second Table-1. Kurti K 20 was obtained third rank. Kurti K 3 obtained the last rank with mean score 2.33. Table-1 Preferences of the College-going Girls for the Silhouettes of the Prepared Kurtis n=30 Designs code Score Mean score Rank K 3 70 2.33 VI K 8 83 2.76 IV K 11 96 3.20 I K 15 92 3.06 II K 16 77 2.56 V K 20 88 2.94 III 4.2 Preferences for the Necklines of the Prepared Kurtis First rank was given to the necklines K 11 and K 15 mean score 2.90 each followed by third and fourth preferences for necklines of K 8 mean score 2.73 and K 16 mean score 2.60. Neckline of K 3 kurti design was least preferred with mean score 2.33 Table-2. Evaluation of the Prepared kurtis on the basis of the Consumer Acceptance 63 Design K 3 Design K 8 Design K 11 Design K 15 64 Manpreet Kaur and Kanwaljit Kaur Brar Design K 16 Design K 20 Table-2 : Preferences of the college-going girls for the necklines of the prepared kurtis n=30 Designs with code Score Mean scores Rank K 3 58 1.93 VI K 8 82 2.73 III K 11 87 2.90 I K 15 87 2.90 I K 16 78 2.60 IV K 20 67 2.23 V 4.3 Preferences for adapted phulkari motifs and designs of the prepared kurtis The most preferred phulkari design was K 20 mean score 3.10 followed by design of K 15 kurti mean score 2.93 which obtained second rank. Third preference was given to the design of K 11 kurti mean score 2.80. The next preferred phulkari motifs and designs were of K 16 mean score 2.46 and K 3 mean score 2.30. Phulkari design of K 8 kurti mean score 2.30 was least preferred among the prepared kurtis Table-3. Evaluation of the Prepared kurtis on the basis of the Consumer Acceptance 65 Table-3 : Preferences of the college-going girls for phulkari designs of the prepared kurtis n=30 Designs with code Score Mean score Rank K 3 69 2.30 V K 8 48 1.60 VI K 11 84 2.80 III K 15 88 2.93 II K 16 74 2.46 IV K 20 93 3.10 I 4.4 Preferences for colour combination of the prepared kurtis First rank for the colour combination of the prepared kurtis was given to K 20 mean score 3.10, while second and third ranks were awarded to colour combination of K 16 mean score 3.00 and K 15 mean score 2.93, respectively. The least preference was given to the colour combination of kurti K 8 with mean score 1.60 Table-4. Table-4 : Preferences of the college-going girls for colour combination for the prepared kurtis n=30 Designs with code Score Mean score Rank K 3 69 2.30 V K 8 48 1.60 VI K 11 84 2.80 IV K 15 88 2.93 III K 16 90 3.00 II K 20 93 3.10 I 4.5 Preferences of the college-going girls for embellishments of the prepared kurtis The data pertaining to the preferences of the respondents regarding embellishments used for the prepared kurtis indicated that embellishments of K 8 , K 16 , K 20 mean score 2.46 each were most preferred by the respondents followed by embellishments of K 15 kurti design mean score 2.06 and K 11 mean score 1.96 which obtained fourth and fifth ranks for embellishments. Last rank was given to the embellishments of kurti K 3 with mean score 1.50 Table-5 66 Manpreet Kaur and Kanwaljit Kaur Brar Table-5 : Preferences of the college-going girls for embellishments of the prepared kurtis n=30 Designs with code Score Mean score Rank K 3 45 1.50 VI K 8 74 2.46 1 K 11 59 1.96 V K 15 62 2.06 IV K 16 74 2.46 I K 20 74 2.46 I 4.6 Preferences for overall appeal of the prepared kurtis Compared to all prepared kurtis, K15 and K20 obtained the first rank mean score 3.66 each followed by K16 mean score 3.03 for overall appeal of the prepared kurtis. Kurti K11 mean score 2.86, K8 mean score 2.56 and K3 mean score 2.34 obtained fourth, fifth and sixth ranks with respect to overall appeal Table-6. Table-6 : Preferences of the college-going girls for overall appeal of the prepared kurtis n=30 Designs with code Score Mean score Rank K 3 70 2.34 VI K 8 77 2.56 V K 11 91 2.86 IV K 15 110 3.66 I K 16 86 3.03 III K 20 110 3.66 I 4.7 Opinion of the respondents towards the prepared kurtis The opinion of the respondents regarding the prepared kurtis was taken on the basis of three categories: very good, good and fair. The data revealed that majority of the respondents 93.34 each considered design K 15 and K 20 as ‘very good,’ whereas 16.66 per cent assessed as ‘good’ and ‘fair’. Majority of the respondents liked the kurtis because of these motifs and designs, colour combinations and embellishments Table-7. Evaluation of the Prepared kurtis on the basis of the Consumer Acceptance 67 Table-7 : Opinion of the respondents towards the prepared kurtis n=30 Designs with code Very good Good Fair f f f K 3 20 66.68 5 16.66 5 16.66 K 8 23 76.66 5 16.67 2 6.67 K 11 24 80.00 4 13.33 2 6.67 K 15 28 93.34 1 3.33 1 3.33 K 16 27 90.00 2 6.67 1 3.33 K 20 28 93.34 1 3.33 1 3.33 Nearly 76.7 per cent of the respondents graded the design K 8 as ‘very good’ while 16.67 per cent of the respondents considered it as ‘good’. However, only 6.67 per cent of the respondents considered it as ‘fair’. The respondents found kurti K 8 to be very attractive, stylish and unique. The results indicated that majority of respondents 80.00 considered K 11 as ‘very good’, while 13.33 per cent of the respondents considered it as ‘good’. The respondents appreciated the design for its motifs and colour combinations. Also, majority of the respondents, i.e. 93.34 per cent, graded the design K 15 as ‘very good’. The reason stated by the respondents for considering it as ‘’very good’ was for the kind of base fabric and design. The data indicated that the majority of the respondents 90.00 considered K 16 as ‘very good’ whereas 6.67 per cent and 3.33 per cent respondents opined it as ‘good’ and ‘fair’ respectively. Respondents found it to be very attractive, unique and creative. Design K 20 was considered as ‘very good’ by the respondents 93.34 followed by 3.33 per cent of the respondents each who considered these as ‘good’ and ‘fair’. The reason stated by the respondent for considering these as ‘very good’ was for the kind of design, motif and colour combinations. 4.8 Opinion of the respondents regarding the suitability of price in the prepared kurtis The largest percentage of respondents, i.e. 93.34 per cent, found the quoted selling price of the prepared kurtis K 8 and K 20 as adequate. Besides, 3.34 per cent respondents found the quoted price as lower than what the price should be 68 Manpreet Kaur and Kanwaljit Kaur Brar Table-8. Majority of the respondents considered the quoted price for K 3 , K 11 , and K 15 as adequate. Nearly 17.00 per cent considered the quoted price by K 3 and K 11 as low. Also, 23.34 per cent respondents considered the quoted price of K 16 as high. Table-8 : Opinion of the respondents regarding the suitability of price in the prepared kurtis n=30 Designs with code Quoted price ` Respondents High Adequate Low f f f K 3 3549.00 5 16.67 25 83.34 5 16.67 K 8 5863.00 1 3.34 28 93.34 1 3.34 K 11 2587.00 5 16.67 25 83.34 5 16.67 K 15 2158.00 6 20.00 23 76.67 1 3.34 K 16 4621.00 7 23.34 21 70.00 2 6.67 K 20 8287.00 1 3.34 28 93.34 1 3.34 4.9 Assessment of the profit margins of the prepared kurtis Quoted price was calculated by adding thirty per cent profit to cost of each kurti . Respondent’s opinion about the quoted price for each kurti was taken. Then, they were asked to mention the selling price for each kurti that they would be ready to pay. Average selling price was calculated for each kurti and is presented in Table-9. Quoted price for design K 3 , K 8 , K 11 was `3549-, `5863-, and `2587-, respectively while the average selling price suggested by the respondents was little lesser, i.e. `3505-, `5767-, and `2580-, respectively. Table-9 : Assessment of the profit margins of the prepared kurtis n=30 Kurti designs Cost price ` Quoted price ` Selling price ` z-value Percentage profit K 3 2730.00 3549.00 3505.00 13.32 28.38 K 8 4510.00 5863.00 5767.00 26.95 27.87 K 11 1990.00 2587.00 2580.00 58.95 29.64 K 15 1660.00 2158.00 2141.00 19.29 28.97 K 16 3555.00 4621.00 4657.00 28.52 23.66 K 20 6375.00 8287.00 8213.00 31.60 28.83 Significant at 5 level of significance Evaluation of the Prepared kurtis on the basis of the Consumer Acceptance 69 Highest profit was found to be possible in case of K 11 , i.e. 29.64 per cent followed by K 15 and K 20 with profit margin of 28.97 and 28.85 per cent. These calculated z-values for profit margin of the prepared kurtis were found to be significant at 5 level of significant Table 4.42. Thus, there is significant difference in the selling price and cost price of kurtis. The cost of production is expected to be lower on being mass produced. Therefore, the designed line of kurtis would be commercially viable. 5. Conclusions Diversification of phulkari embroidery through innovative product development will not only help to popularise the phulkari craft but would also yield good profit margin. References Anonymous 2012a Meaning of Fashion, http:wiki.answer.comq meaning_ of_fashion 0882012 Anonymous 2010 Definition of kurtis http:en.wikipedia.orgwikikurtis accessed on 06052012 Anonymous 2013a www.jaipuri kurti.com...latest-clothing trends accessed on 382013. Anonymous 2013b http:indiatoday.instorta-stitch-in-time accessed on 04 82013. Malik, S. B. 2011 From Silk to Synthetic Phulkari: The Long Journey of a Period Textile www.ijhssnet.comjournalsVol_1_No_16_November_201131.pdf [ac cessed 20042012] Singh, O. P. and K. Brar, Revival of Phulkari, Report of Ad HOC Research Project of ICAR, 2002, pp. 22. ê 70 Manpreet Kaur and Kanwaljit Kaur Brar Article Received on June 18, 2015; Accepted on July 11, 2015 8 Globalization and its Impact on Rural India Rangoli Chandra and Renu “Globalization means ‘global village ‘in which people from every place of the world can be approached directly or indirectly. Modern communication and information technology plays an important role in spreading globalization. Internet, by which we can receive any information in few seconds, is also an important mean of globalization. Globalization broadly affects the rural life. Because of globalization, informational technology and communication revolution also occurs in village that has raised global consciousness and education in the rural areas. The globalization has both positive and negative impact on rural life. In positive impact, it includes progressiveness of rural life and in negative, includes changes in cultural paradigm of rural life. Thus, we see that globalization widely affects the rural life. The process of globalization has enhanced the competition in society. The culture of marketplace has increased. Human moral values have been declined. Globalization, on one side has increased the materialistic facilities but on the other side, mental peace of individual has been lost. So the process of globalization has changed the course of the whole world in a global village, as a result, it has become difficult to subsistence for unskilled and uneducated labours.” [Keywords : Globalization, village, Communication, Technology, Revolution, Consciousness, Progressiveness, Competition, Unskilled] 1. Introduction The term ‘globalization’ was first used in the field of economy. Globalization is a process of integration of policies, economic, cultural and industrial system that exist separately today. It is a process by which the world is CONTEMPORARY SOCIAL SCIENCES, Vol. 24, Number 3 July-September, 2015 Associate Professor, Department of Sociology, University of Lucknow, Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh India E-mail: rangoli.drrediffmail.com ; rangoli.drgmail.com Research Scholar, Department of Sociology, University of Lucknow, Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh India E-mail: renu.grsgmail.com being transformed from a set of national and regional markets into a set of markets that operate without regard to national boundaries. It has become the driving force of everything we do, be it social policy, education policy, health or safely or the environment. The process of globalization has deeply affected the economic, social, cultural and technological sides of societies in new world order. Globalization has been seen as a basic concept in directing the economics social and cultural policies. At operational level, globalization is reflected in the progressive integration of the world’s economies through trade in goods and services, flow of technology and information, international capital flows, environment issues and rising levels of literacy. The process is an old one, although it has gained greater acceptance and momentum through the 1980s and in a way, took off during the 1990s. A whole lot government and institutions like the IMF International Monetary Fund, the World Bank, et.al. have played a crucial role in nudging countries towards globalization. The ensuing consensus was encoded through the round of the GATT General Agreement on Trade and Tariff and eventually the WTO World Trade Organization. 1 Globalization is the process which expands and accelerates the movement of ideas and exchange of commodities over vast distances. From a global perspective, globalizations most important impacts are often highly localized. Globalization really affects people with respect to their way of life, culture, taste, fusion, preferences etc. It has led to good and bad effects on the lives of people. 2. History of Globalization Globalization has a long history as a political and cultural reality and as a religious and cultural movement. It is believed that the first stage of globalization started with the early Egyptian, Babylonian, Greek and Roman Empires, Which united the world of their time. The second stage traced later part of 1400s when European explorers voyaged out of Europe to discover new land. Trade expended between European explorers voyaged out of Europe to discover new world of gradually the process of colonization started. The third stage of globalization started in the 19th century along with the expansion of colonial empires and trade. The globalization intensified with advent of industrial revolution in Europe and sought raw materials for its products. This period ended with World War ll but its ideological, economic and cultural consequences continue to influence till today. With the rejection and failure of socialism as an alternative, the whole world is thrown open to market economy, liberal 72 Rangoli Chandra and Renu democracy and western cultural values with the powerful tool of information technology. 2 The term ‘globalization’ derived from the word glob al ize, which re fers to the emer gence of an in ter na tional net work of eco nomic sys tems. 3 One of the ear li est known us ages of the term as a noun was in a 1930 pub li ca tion en ti tled, To wards New Ed u ca tion , where it de noted a ho lis tic view of hu man ex pe ri ence in ed u ca tion. 4 A re lated term, cor po rate gi ants was coined by Charles Taze Rus sell in 1897 to re fer to the largely na tional trusts and other large en ter prises of the time. By the 1960s, both terms be gan to use as the syn onyms by econ o mists and other sci en tists. Econ o mists The o dore Levitt is widely cred ited with coin ing the term in an ar ti cle en ti tled “Glob al iza tion of Mar kets” which ap peared in the May-June 1983 is sue of Har vard Busi ness Re view. How ever, the term glob al iza tion was in use well be fore at least as early as 1944 and had been used by other schol ars as early as 1981. 5 Some thinkers define globalization which are as follows : Anthony Giddens 1991 in The consequences of Modernity, wrote that “Globalization can thus be defined as the intensification of worldwide social relations which link distant localities in such a way that local happenings are shaped by events occurring many miles away and vice versa. 6 Paul James 2005, defines “Globalization is the extension of social relations across world space, defining that world- space in terms of the historically variably ways that it has been practiced and socially understood through changing world-time.” 7 Tomlinson 1996 says that “Globalization refers to the rapidly developing processes of complex interconnections between societies, cultures, institutions and individuals worldwide. It is social process that involves the compression of time and space, shrinking distances through a dramatic reduction in time taken either physically or representational to cross them, so marking the world seem smaller and in certain bringing human being ‘closer’ to one another.” 8 Ulrich Beck 2001, said that “Globalization is a process of worldwide stratification in the course of which new socio-culture hierarchy, on a world wide scale is put together.” 9 3. Characteristics of Globalization There are number of characteristics of globalization which are as follows : Globalization and its Impact on Rural India 73 u According to Robert Mecorquodale, “Globalizations is contested term and there is no one accepted definition of it” . In broader sense it in cludes two things, in te gra tion of the world and in ter de pen dence of the sov er eign na tion states. u The term globalization is all encompassing and is defined in both economic and non economic context which includes social-cultural, historical and political. u Shrinking space which means people lives, their-jobs, incomes and health- are affected by events on other side of the globe often by events they do not know about. u Shrinking time which is seen in speed with which markets and technologies are changing. u Disappearing Borders : National borders are breaking down not only on trade, capital and information but also for ideas, norms, culture and values. u Globalization also means “universalization of particularism and particularization of universalism” that is what is local is global and what is global is local. u It is two fold process Global-Local has many aspect it is political, social and cultural process, but is foremost an economic process. u Some scholars like John Harris views globalization as American capitalism imperialism Stanley Hoffmann illustrates the following feature of globalization. u Globalization is multidimensional process it has three basic dimensions economic, cultural and political. u Benefits of globalization, though undeniable are limited as well as uneven. The reach of globalization remains limited as it excludes many poor countriespoor people. u Globalization main effect is rise of social movements due to the discontent of globalization. u Globalization suffers from many contradictions. u It is the market which has been the main beneficiary of the state’s retreat. u Economic globalization has affected states sovereignty. u Stanley Hoffmann further points out that character of citizenship remains intact despite of global integration of economic life of people. u Hoffman’s perceived that there exists a relationship between globalization and violence . 74 Rangoli Chandra and Renu u Communication and information Technology reduces the distance in real time. u Deregulated markets with speedy transfer of capital. u The emergence of global media network linked with global communication. u Global consumer culture and global music, film, TV culture. u Increase concentration of capital in the hand of few individuals via merger and acquisitions. u Greatest awareness, but not very effective to address problems of human rights violation and other problems faced by the mankind today Singh 10 and Sinha 11 . 4. Aspects of Globalization There are many potentially positive and negative aspects of globalization. Development linked with globalization have opened up boundless possibilities for human development, enormous new opportunities and enhanced the quality of life for many people in the third world countries. The globalization has been reciprocally beneficial. If also creates and promotes global concern and attracts worldwide attention to the local issues. Globalization has many dimensions- economic, political, social, technological, cultural, and ideological etc. each of them affects the local either positively or negatively. Manoj Sinha has highlighted the various aspect of globalization; some of them are summarized as follows 11 : 4.1 Economic Aspects u Some nations have tremendous economic advantages, other have become more and more dependent. u The main players in the process of globalization and governments of powerful Nation G7, TNCS Transnational Corporation, IMS Integrated Management Systems, WB World Bank and WTO World Trade Organization . u Development of third world countries has to be related with world market. u Over all control of global economy is in the hand of G7 countries. u The foreign debts work as an instrument to control development process in these countries. u Terms and conditions are imposed on them which make them almost impossible to develop on their own terms. Globalization and its Impact on Rural India 75 u Growth of multinationals and emphasis on foreign trade is not the tune with the basic need of people u In the globalized free market economy, the only people who count are those who have goods to sell and those who have money to buy. u Widening the gap between the rich and the poor, both between countries and within countries. u There has been a worldwide growth in poverty, inequality and human misery and social injustice is becoming an accepted reality. u Present economic system does not serve the interests of majority it rather destroys the lives of many people due its unjust distribution of wealth, exploitation and deprivation of basic needs. u Globalization leads to lowering of labor costs and wages.p. 193-194 4.2 Social Aspects u Globalization created the situation of marginalization, exclusive and social disintegration countries like India are facing their problems squarely. u People in rural area isolated from the urban privileged groups. u It creates an inferiority complex among the poor rural masses. u Because of urban centric model of developments, many rural people are forced to migrate to cities in search of employment and better living. u The migrants are the most exploited people; they suffer from insecurity and social exclusion. u Permanent employment and skilled workforce is being replaced by the casual and part time employment creating insecurity among the workers. u Diminishing trade unionism has made the work ers ab so lutely voice less. u Profit oriented free market has lost the present social realities. u Society has become impersonal, mechanical and inhumane and is lost in consumerism and materialism. u Unprincipled living, selfishness, corruption, opportunism and violence are the products of consumerism and materialism which intern is the effect of globalization p. 195. 4.3 Cultural Aspects u Globalization involves cultural invasion. u Globalization means the export and import of cultures. 76 Rangoli Chandra and Renu u The whole idea of progress and development is shaped by western life style. u A monoculture is fast emerging based on western values of consumerism and individualism undermining the ethnicity and traditions of local. u There was a community ownership of land and property, accumulation of wealth by an individual was not welcome, but today wealth is increasingly regarded as belonging to individuals and not to community. u Indigenous cultural values are vastly ignored p.196. So Globalization has become a significant factor in competitive world that integrated and mobilize cultural values of people at global level. In the age of rapid technical progression, many countries are unified and transformed due to the process of globalization. Globalization has a huge impact on cultural, social, monetary, political and communal life of countries. Abundant theoretical studies demonstrated that globalization intercedes in a cultural life of populace that raises numerous critical issues Robertson, 1992. In broad sense, the term ‘globalization’ means combination of economies and societies through cross country flows of information, ideas, technologies, goods, services, capital, finance and people. Globalization is described by theorists as the process through which societies and economies are integrated through cross broader flows of ideas, communication, technology, capital, people, finance, goods, services and information. 12 Globalization has brought new prospects to developing world. It has given great power to developed markets to enter in the developing countries by transferring their machinery with the assurance of better output and higher living standard. However, it does have brought up difficulties as well such as increase in inequality between socio-economic classes, environmental degradation and instability in financial market. In the nineties, the restriction on the trade and investment was removed of barrier accelerated the rapidity of globalization in India. 5. Globalization in Indian Context In India early 1990s, India unlocked its economy to the world because of the foreign policies exchange crisis that to defaults on loans of the economy. There was a sudden policy change in India with the notion of new economic model known as Liberalization, Privatization and Globalization in India LPG. The primary objective of this model was to make the economy of India the fastest Globalization and its Impact on Rural India 77 economy developing economy in the globe with capabilities that help it match up with the biggest economies of the world. In early nineties, the key measures instigated as a part of policy like, the abandoning of licensing of industries, the reduction in the areas of public sector, amendment in the monopolies and the controlled trade systems function, initiated privatization programme, lessening tariff charges and the most important was to switch to the market determined exchange rates. This change in the policy had dramatic effects on the expansion of Indian economy. This all changes actually the announcement of the fusion of Indian economy into the global economy. Over the years with the policy change, more and more sectors begin foreign direct investment and portfolio investments and attracted foreign investors in telecom, airports, insurance, roads, ports, airports, transportation and much more. 13 6. Impact of Globalization on Rural India Globalization and India discourse continues since the recent wave of liberalization, structural adjustment and economic reforms have started in India about more than a decade ago in 1991. This has opened the doors of Indian economy to the world and vice-versa. Concerning rural India, the debate has been going on how and in what manner it is going to be affected by globalization. So here we will gong to discuss the impact of globalization on different sectors of rural India. 6.1 Agriculture In case of agriculture sector, it is a matter of debate that how and in what manner Indian agriculture is going to be affected by reforms, liberalization and consequent policies. Some have arguing in favour of it that agricultural sector will be benefitted, there will be diversification of agriculture and ultimately that will boost the production which will positively affect the Indian famers and the rural population in general. On the other hand, others are arguing strongly against globalization and have been indicating that farmers and rural population in India going to be adversely affected. It is feared that the multinational corporations by way of free flow of goods, capital and services will grab not only the industrial resources but also the agriculture sector, agri-business and probably result in to pauperization of Indian agriculturists, small farmers and rural labour. 13 Over the years, with the advent of more technology, there has been a significant change in the process of agriculture in the country. Earlier farmers used traditional farming techniques for growing crops. As such, they suffered a 78 Rangoli Chandra and Renu lot and the output was affected by a number of factors like pest problems, weather situations and lots more. Due to the globalization and introduction of better equipments, there has been a stark improvement in the techniques of agriculture. Today, farmers are using gadgets like rowers, tractors, electric pipelines and lots more for the cultivation of crops. This has increased the produce in terms of quantity as well as quality. As such, farmers have started earning more and have improved their per capita income and the standard of living. The government has also taken several positive steps to improve the poverty situation in the rural areas. Irrigational projects have been undertaken, dams have been built and more facilities have been provided to the farmers to increase their agricultural produce. As lots of farmers are poor, they are not in a position to buy expensive equipments. To solve this problem and make them self sufficient, the government also grants financial help and loan to the farmers at very cheap rates. The government has set up the National Bank for Agriculture and Rural Development NABARD and various other Regional Rural Banks RRBs to financially help the farmers in need. Housing projects are also being undertaken to solve the accommodation problems of the poor. 14 6.2 Education Education, as a service industry, is part of globalization process under the umbrella of General Agreement on Trade in Services. In 2000-01, government initiated programme aimed at the universalization of education. The package of reforms in primary education sector is addressed as Sarva Shiksha Abhiyan pop u larly known as SSA mean ing ed u ca tion for all; Gov ern ment has ini ti ated new ed u ca tion pol icy. The sa lient fea ture of New Na tional Pol icy of Ed u ca tion are in tro duc tion of a na tional core cur ric u lum at the school level; spe cial em pha sis on the ed u ca tion of women and of the sched uled castes tribes; ex am i na tion re forms; es tab lish ment of pace – set ting in sti tu tions called “Navodaya vidyalayas” in all parts of the coun try as a part to the ef fort to pro vide equal op por tu ni ties, es pe cially in ru ral ar eas, to raise the qual ity of higher education. 6.3 Reforms in Basic Services The government of India has initiated several reforms measures in the delivery of basic services. The vital of them include i Primary Health Services ii Sanitation Education iii Drinking Water Supply. Reforms in basic services Globalization and its Impact on Rural India 79 are being implemented since 200001. The package on reforms in primary health care is addressed as National Rural Health Mission NRHM; Globalization has also positively affected the overall health care situation in the country. More and more medical innovations are coming in which are improving the health situation in India. The infant mortality rate and the malnutrition rate have significantly come down since the last decade and the package on reforms in rural drinking supply water is addressed as ‘Swajaldara’- Rural Drinking Water Project so that safe and hygiene water reach to people of villages and government also started welfare and education programme on sanitation. But these reform initiatives involving basic services need effective implementation so it will reach each and every part of rural India. 6.4 Poverty Since Independence, the eradication of poverty has been the integral part of strategy for the economic development in India. Garibi Hatao, Kapada-Roti-Makan or Bizili-Sadak-Pani was and still is one of the vote catcher and aid catcher for India. World’s Bank motto, “our dream is world without poverty” made optimists to think that worldwide war against poverty will reduce the poverty in India in Globalization Era. The World Bank’s Global Monitoring Report for 2014-15 on the Millennium Development Goals Says India has been the biggest contributor to poverty reduction between 2008 and 2011, with around 140 million or so lifted out of absolute poverty. Since the early 1950s, Indian government initiated various schemes to help the poor attain self-sufficiency in food production. These have included ration cards and price controls over the supply of basic commodities, particularly food at controlled prices, available throughout the country. These efforts prevented famines, but did little to eliminate or reduce poverty in rural or urban areas between 1950 and 1980. Poverty elevating programmes launched by government such as MNREGA and Midday Meal Scheme in schools reduce poverty to some extent. 14 A major portion of the poverty level in India is from the rural areas whose staple form of income is agriculture and farming. Due to the globalization, Indian agriculture has improved to some extent which has helped to reduce the poverty problem of the rural masses. 6.5 Employment Globalization has also put a favorable effect on the employment scenario of the country. Over the years, due to the liberalization policies, India has become a 80 Rangoli Chandra and Renu consumer oriented market where the changes are brought by the demand and supply forces. Due to the high demand and the supply chains, there has been significant growth in the market. As such, more and more job opportunities are being created in different sectors. This has increased the per capita income considerably which has improved the poverty level to a great extent. The growth of the various sectors has also opened up new employment opportunities which have put a positive impact on the overall poverty situation of the country. More and more industries are being introduced in the market to cater to the growing demand. Some of the well known industries that have recently become very popular in the country are personal and beauty care, agro products, health care, information technology and some other sectors. The service sector has a share of around 54 of the annual Gross Domestic Product GDP. The share of the agricultural and industrial sectors in the annual GDP is 17 and 29. Thus we can see that globalization has increased the employment opportunities to some extent.15 7. Conclusion Globalization as it is perceived and viewed today is a complex, dynamic and multidimensional phenomenon. The worldwide talk about globalization does not lead to any common view point. It is a contested concept. The opponents and the proponents of the globalization provide their own statics and figures to substantiate their view points. In India, this phenomenon has a unique feature and that is ‘globalization in our country was ‘crises driven’, and without any preparatory work. The logic given by the pro-globalist to support it is based on trickled down theory which is not evident in the countries where these policies are in force for past many years. Hence, it will be futile to hope that it will really work for all the sections of the society, unless certain changes are made keeping in mind the history, culture and geography of a particular country in general and India in particular. References

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, Allahabad : K. K. Publications, Academy Press, 2002-2003. 2. Sinha, Manoj, ‘Globalization and Consumerism : A study of its Impact,’ in Govind Prasad and Anil Datta Mishra eds., Globalization : Myth and Reality, New Delhi : Concept Publishing Company P Ltd.,2004, 188-189. Globalization and its Impact on Rural India 81 3. “Globalization” online Etymology Dictionary. Retrieved 7 July 2012. 4. “Globalization” Oxford English Dictionary online. September-2009, Retrieved 5 November 2010. 5. Feder, Barnaby J. 6 July 2006, Theodore Levitt, 81, Who coined the term “Globalization is Dead”. Retrieved 23 April 2014.

6. Gidden, Anthony, The Consequences of Modernity, Cambridge : Polity Press,

1991, 64. 7. James, Paul, “Arguing Globalisation : Propositions towards an Investigation of Global Formation”, Globalization, Vol. 2 2, 2005, 193-209. 8. Tomlinson, John, “Cultural Globalization : Placing and Displacing the West”, European Journal of Development Research , Vol. 8 2, December, 1996, cited by Rajkumar in “Globalization and Dalit Culture”, P. G. Jogdand ed., New Economic Policy and Dalits , New Delhi : Rawat Publication, 2000, 85.

9. Beck, Ulrich, What is Globalization, U.K. : Polity Press, 2001.

10. Singh, Arun Kumar, “Globalization Sovereignty and Human Rights : A Perspective”, Govind Prasad and Anil Dutta Mishrain eds., Globalization : Myth and Reality , New Delhi : Concept Publishing Company P Ltd.,2004. 11. Sinha, Manoj 2004, “Globalization and Consumeris m : A Study of its Impact’ ”, Govind Prasad and Anil Dutta Mishrain eds., Op. Cit., 189. 12. Effects of Globalisation on Indian Society- Civil Service India. 13. Impact of Globalization on India; UKEssays.

14. Impact of Globalization – Business in India, Maps of India.

15. Ibid. ê 82 Rangoli Chandra and Renu Article Received on June 29, 2015; Accepted on August 10, 2015 9 Smocking - A Magnificent Endeavour Shikha Bajaj and Harminder Kaur Saini The art of adornment on fabric pieces been always been a matter of interest for the craft lovers and designers. For centuries, arts and crafts have been distinguished for their great aesthetic and functional value 1 . In the present world of fashion, demand of variety and new interesting creations are cherished more than anything. This present attempt entitled, ‘Smocking - A magnificent endeavour’ was aimed at designing and shaping of merchandise with pleasing exotic concepts. The study was carried out in Ludhiana city. A total of ten utility articles namely cushion cover, pillow cover, bolster cover, trimming for bedsheet, curtain canopy, lampshade, handbag, jewellery box, folder and footwear were prepared by using various smocking techniques and designs. Two designs for each article were sketched on corelDRAW X3 and after evaluation by a panel of judges, one design of each article, was selected for development of the article. Selected designs were then developed by using suitable fabrics and embellishments. [ Keywords : Smocking, Utility, Design, Judges, Articles] 1. Introduction Embroidery can be a wonderfully meditative practice. It is a creative way to play with color, shape, line and texture and adorn the simple pieces of fabric. Creative and innovative thoughts of mind can bring up numerous ideas of embellishment and adding value to the merchandise. Smocking is one of the magnificent and elegant arts of ornamentation which carries its roots in England, but over the years, it has found its worthy place in many parts of the world. It is an art form which has been handed down from generation to generation much CONTEMPORARY SOCIAL SCIENCES, Vol. 24, Number 3 July-September, 2015 Research Scholar, Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana-141004, Punjab India E-mail: shikhabajaj26gmail.com Professor, Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home-Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, Punjab India E-mail: harminderctpau.edu like the sagas, songs and myths, however its roots are traceable to a point through looking at the art of the past and specifically at the stitchery on the clothing 2 . While other major embroidery styles were purely decorative and represented status symbols, Smocking was practical for garments for both form fitting and flexibility in the past 3 . It carries extreme potential to add to the array of prevalent embellishment techniques in the market as it reveals unending ideas of adornment with involvement of different stitches, stitch sizes and design placements. Also, it has an engaging charm of handwork associated with it. The craft is not only bearer of traditional adoption of historical perceptions but also foundation of modern design innovations. The embroidery fascinates people from all classes of society without any boundaries. A lot of work in the past has been done on children’s garments and nightwear involving smocking stitches and this study carries the magic further by incorporating smocking designs in utility articles. The present study paper focuses on designing utility articles through computer aided designing and then preparation by using smocking techniques. 2. Methodology Two designs for each of the article were sketched by using graphics and tools of corelDRAW X3 . A total of twenty designs, for ten articles were shown to a panel of judges which included faculty members and PG students from Department of Apparel and Textile Science and Department of Family resource management. The data collected from a panel of judges were coded, tabulated and analyzed. Simple percentages were calculated to obtain the information regarding preferences of judges. On the basis of the rankings given by judges, the most preferred design for each article was selected for development. The ten articles selected for preparation with smocking technique included cushion cover, pillow cover, bolster cover, trimming for bedsheet, curtain canopy, lampshade, handbag, jewellery box, folder and footwear. u Prepartion of Articles l Cutting the fabrics : Fabrics were selected for each of the article and then cutting was done according to the final measurements required. A little extra length or width of the fabric was kept according to the smocking stitch to be used while cutting the fabric. In general, if smocking is done after pleating the fabric, it consumes almost three times the actual fabric, however if it is done without pleating, it takes two times of actual fabric inside the stitches. 84 Shikha Bajaj and Harminder Kaur Saini l Marking of patterns on the fabrics : According to the placement and measurement of area to be smocked, markings in the form of square boxes were done on the fabrics by using pencil, ball pen or coloured sketch pen. On the fabrics, where pen or pencil could not be used, squares of uniform size were printed on the wrong side by using a light colour. The corners of these square boxes were then filled with the smocking pattern to be developed for respective articles Fig. 1. Smocking - A Magnificent Endeavour 85 l Smocking on the fabrics : Smocking was done with thread colour matching to the fabric Fig. 2. Double thread was taken in crewel needle and stitches were made on the fabric according to the pattern. Smocking stitches include pulling of thread at one point, generally at one corner of a square and usually ending at the same point after stretching one or two more corners of the same square. The thread pulling pattern may vary depending on the smocking pattern and design to be achieved. l Stitching : After the smocking was done, fabrics were rechecked for required measurements. Minor adjustments were made here by increasing or decreasing smocked area, or cutting a short length of fabric in order to suit the required specifications of articles. After this, articles were stitched separately by using single needle lock stitch machine or by hand, as suited for various articles. The embellishments like beads and laces were applied on the stitched articles. 3. Results and Discussion The use of computer aided softwares in the field of designing has increased to the productivity of the designer by improving the quality of design, communications through documentation, and by creating a database for manufacturing 4 . Computer aided designing is an important industrial art extensively used in development of two dimensional and three dimensional compositions which in turn enhances the understanding and clarity of the concept and makes the accomplishment simpler, therefore, the designs prepared for smocked utility articles have been developed on CorelDrawX3 Fig. 3. The results pertaining to the preferences of judges have been furnished in table-1. The data revealed that in case of article A 1, cushion cover, majority of the judges 82.00 preferred design 1 whereas design 2 was liked by only 18.00 per cent of the judges. For article A 2, bolster cover, 58.00 percent of the judges preferred design 2 followed by 42.00 percent who preferred design 1. As regards to article A 3, a bolster cover, majority of the judges 80.00 liked design 1 whereas only 20.00 percent of the judges preferred design2. In case of article A 4, trimming for bedsheet, 56.00 percent of the judges opined that design 2 was better; however 44.00 percent of the judges liked design 1. For A 5, curtain canopy, 62.00 percent of the judges preferred design 2 followed by 38.00 percent of judges who liked design-1. 86 Shikha Bajaj and Harminder Kaur Saini Smocking - A Magnificent Endeavour 87 For article, A 6 lampshade, 54.00 percent of the judges opined that design 2 was better, however, 46.00 percent of the judges preferred design 1. As regards to A 7, handbag, majority of the judges 74 rated design 1 as better, followed by 26.00 percent of the judges who liked design 2. In case of A 8, jewellery box, 68.00 percent of the judges preferred design 2, however 38.00 percent of the judges preferred design 1. For article A 9, folder, 66.00 percent of the judges liked design 1 however 34.00 percent of the judges preferred design 2. In case of article A 10, footwear, 56.00 percent of the judges opined that design 2 was better, however 44.00 percent of the judges preferred design-1. Table- 1 : Design preferences by the judges for smocked utility articles n=50 Article code and name Design 1 Design 2 A 1 Cushion cover 41 82.00 9 18.00 A 2 Pillow cover 21 42.00 29 58.00 A 3 Bolster cover 40 80.00 10 20.00 A 4 Trimming for bedsheet 22 44.00 28 56.00 A 5 Curtain canopy 19 38.00 31 62.00 A 6 Lampshade 23 46.00 27 54.00 A 7 Handbag 37 74.00 13 26.00 A 8 Jewellery box 16 32.00 34 68.00 A 9 Folder 17 34.00 33 66.00 A 10 Footwear 22 44.00 28 56.00 Figures in parentheses indicate percentages 3.1 Prepared Smocked Utility Articles Article A 1 : Article A1 was a cushion cover in round shape which was made by using velour fabric in purple colour. Canadian smocking stitches were used in cushion cover and were worked out by using polyester yarn. The diameter of the cushion cover was 30.48 cm. In order to fix the pleats developed by smocking stitches, a round plastic button of 2” diameter had been used. The button had been covered with same velour fabric and pleats were sewn and fixed in the centre. A casing was stitched on the back side of cushion cover and a drawstring 88 Shikha Bajaj and Harminder Kaur Saini Smocking - A Magnificent Endeavour 89 stitched with same velour fabric was inserted in it. The cushion cover could be opened by pulling the drawstring Fig 4a. Article A 2 : Article A 2 was a pillow cover in rectangular shape. Plain glazed cotton fabric was used for this. The article was made in pink colour and lattice smocking pattern was used. The stitches had been made by using polyester yarn. The dimensions of pillow cover were 59.69 x 42.55 cm. The pillow cover was embellished by using a white lace on all sides. For opening of pillow cover, a zipper was attached on the unsmocked back side Fig 4b. Article A 3 : Article A 3 was a bolster cover of length 68.58 cm and diameter 21.59 cm. This article was developed by using thick cotton fabric with red and white check. The smocking stitches were worked out by using shell smocking pattern. Polyester yarn was used for making smocking stitches on the wrong side of fabric. The stitches were made in the centre portion of bolster cover. On both ends of bolster cover, casings were used for putting up drawstrings, which facilitate its opening and closing. Tassels made of acrylic yarn and beads were used to enhance the look of bolster cover Fig 4c. Article A 4 : The article was trimming for bedsheet of size 31.75 cm. The trimming was prepared by using Lozenge smocking pattern on the wrong side of white coloured net fabric having thickly woven vertical stripes each at 1”of interval. It was attached on pink coloured cotton bed sheet having self printed stripes. White coloured polyester yarn was used for working out smocking stitches. Trimming was attached on the sides of bedsheet. The trimming for bedsheet has been finished at the bottom by white coloured pom pom lace Fig. 4d. Article A 5 : Article A 5 was curtain canopy of single door width. The length of the canopy at both ends was 59.69 cm and in the centre was 31.75 cm. The canopy has been made by using blended self printed fabric in blue colour and pleated smocking was done in five rows. The smocking was carried out by using polyester yarn on the right side of the fabric. A casing was sewn on the top of canopy for a curtain rod. The bottom of the canopy was finished with beaded lace to give it a fancy look. Off white beads were used to embellish the smocking rows of canopy Fig. 4e. Article A 6 : This was a lampshade. It was made by using organdy fabric of blue colour and two tints of blue were used to make it more attractive. Panels of 30.48 x 20.83 cm size of both colours were dyed, cut and smocked separately and 90 Shikha Bajaj and Harminder Kaur Saini were fixed alternatively on the base for lampshade. Pleated smocking pattern was used for this. The smocking stitches were worked by using cotton yarn of contrast blue colour, for each of the panel separately. Five rows of smocking stitches were done on panels. Lace, sequins and silver beads were used to embellish the lampshade Fig. 5f. Article A 7 : Article A 7 was a handbag. The handbag was prepared by using a woven cotton fabric in white and yellow stripes. The smocking pattern was worked out in such a way that white stripes were shown and yellow stripes were hidden in some areas, while yellow stripes were shown and white were hidden in other areas. White cotton yarn was used for working out smocking stitches on the right side of fabric and it was left uncut and visible. A zig zag pattern of smocking was used. Small off white beads were used in the smocked area for embellishment. The shape of the handbag was semicircle with a diameter of 45.72 cm. Two stripes of same striped woven fabric were attached on both sides of the handbag. Elastic of 0.64 cm width was sewn on both sides of handbag to give it proper shape. For opening and closing of handbag, white coloured velcro was sewn inside the opening of handbag Fig. 5g. Article A 8 : Article A 8 was a jewellery box which was made in dark blue coloured velour fabric. Floral smocking pattern was worked all over the fabric and it was then attached to the wooden box. The dimensions of the jewellery box were 20.83 x 13.2 x 12.7 cm. The smocking stitches were made by using matching blue polyester yarn on the right side of fabric. Small silver stones were used for the embellishment Fig. 5h. Article A 9 : Article A 9 was a folder with dimensions 36.83 x 27.3 cm. The folder was made by using khaddar fabric of brown colour. The smocking pattern used for folder was floral mesh and it was worked on the front side. The stitches were made by using matching brown coloured polyester yarn. The folder was covered with the same khaddar fabric from inside and two patch pockets were also made. Lace and sequins were used to embellish the folder Fig. 5i. Article A 10 : Article A 10 was footwear. For this, smocking has been done on pink cotton canvas fabric having dimensions of 45.72 x 20.32 cm. The smocking was carried out on the wrong side of the fabric to create zig zag pattern on the right side using matching pink coloured polyester yarn. The ready fabric was cut and fixed onto a footwear and the edges were sewn inside the base to achieve finished look Fig. 5j. Smocking - A Magnificent Endeavour 91 92 Shikha Bajaj and Harminder Kaur Saini 4. Conclusion The attempt revealed new impressions of contemporary use of smocking techniques and the findings of the study provide an overview of the preferences of judges for smocked utility articles which was intended to provide inspiration to its designers for development of designs of more practical use. The adoption of various smocking techniques and mix and match of type of fabrics can greatly add element of emphasis to the articles and increase their relevance in terms of market sellability. This art needs all the possible encouragement to make the producers enjoy contentment arising out of their stock. The present endeavour was an earliest attempt directed towards preservation, promotion and propagation of the art of smocking before it completely loses its distinctiveness. The idea is to reform the present portrait of the art thereby retaining the treasure of charm and delight. The result related to type of fabrics, yarns and colours would be beneficial to the artisans and housewives for developing diverse range of articles by making use of different stitches, fabrics, design placements etc. The study in this way adds a great deal of variety in assortments of handloom and upholstery markets and provides a firm traditional base in terms of design and development. Acknowledgement Heartfelt gratitude and indebtedness to my major advisor, Dr. Mrs Harminder Kaur Saini, Professor, Department of Apparel and Textile Science, for her adept guidance, inspiring directions, enthusiastic interest and constructive criticism throughout the course of this study without which it would have been impossible to accomplish the present work. I owe sincere thanks to the members of Advisory Committee, Dr Mrs Harinder Kaur Saggu, Professor, Department of Apparel and Textile Science, Dr. Sukhdev Singh, Professor, Department of Economics and Sociology and Dr Mrs Vandana Gandotra, Associate Professor, Department of Apparel and Textile Science for their valuable suggestions and timely help in successful completion of the work. References 1. Karolia, A. and Sardiwal S. Namda, The Traditional felted craft of Rajasthan, Indian J Traditional knowledge, Vol. 13 2, 2014, 409-415. 93 Smocking - A Magnificent Endeavour 2. Kaiman, B. K., What is English smocking, 2010-2011. Available at: http:www.smockingstore.com what.html 3. Cecilia, E. and Toth K ., Good Housekeeping : The Illustrated Book of Needlecrafts , New York : Hearst Books, 1994, 50. 4. Narayan, K. Lalit, Computer Aided Design and Manufacturing, New Delhi : Prentice Hall of India, 2008, 3. ê 94 Shikha Bajaj and Harminder Kaur Saini Article Received on June 18, 2015; Accepted on July 08, 2015 10 The Role of Psychological Capital to Organizational Commitment of Tenured Employees Anne C. Camit, Ma. Socorro C. Bacay and Lesil E. Artista Though the interest in positive psychology considerably expanded to include organizational commitment in various settings in recent years, further research has yet to be made on psychological capital and its effect on the organizational commitment of tenured employees. Tenure is said to have different effects on commitment. To contribute to the growing interest in understanding psychological capital in this context, we anchored the study to the broaden-and-build theory of positive emotions and surveyed 57 tenured employees in a private manufacturing firm. Data revealed that there is a strong correlation between psychological capital and organizational commitment. This study has implications in creating and nurturing work environments which allow positive emotions to flourish as it is crucial to enable employees build personal resources which includes creativity and social support especially critical to those tenured personnel who are influential to the company. [Keywords : Positive Psychology, Psychological capital, Tenure, Organizational commitment ] CONTEMPORARY SOCIAL SCIENCES, Vol. 24, Number 3 July-September, 2015 Faculty Member, Human Resource Management Program of the School of Management and Information Technology, De La Salle – College of St. Benilde, 2544 Taft Avenue, Manila Philippines E-mail: anne.camitbenilde.edu.ph College Registrar and Coordinator of the Student Learning Center, De La Salle – College of St. Benilde, Manila Philippines E-mail: soc.bacaybenilde.edu.ph Chairperson at the Human Resource Management Program of the School of Management and Information Technology, De La Salle – College of St. Benilde, Manila Philippines E-mail: lesil.artistabenilde.edu.ph 1. Introduction Work ends up dehumanizing people. Francis, 2015 The above quotation ironically captures how work, though mainly beneficial to people, can affect employees negatively if not managed well. It also describes in a nutshell the intent of the researchers to investigate whether certain aspects of positivity can affect a tenured employee’s level of organizational commitment. The following discussions aim to discuss relevant studies involving psychological capital as it relates with organizational commitment while emphasizing the scant literature involved in linking the mentioned concepts with tenured employees. Thus shedding light on the possibility that there is more to dwindling organizational commitment in a seasoned employee than job burnout. Recent research on positive psychological capital is inspired by the idea that the organization’s strength and success is more than its economic, human and social capital. The study of positive psychological capital is a response to the call of psychologists Martin Seligman and Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi’s challenge for the field of psychology to shift its focus from the negative to the positive aspects of human attitude and behavior Luthans, Luthans, Luthans, 2004; Larson Luthans, 2006; Avey, Nimnicht, Pigeon, 2010. “Psychological capital PsyCap is an individual’s positive psychological state of development and is characterized by: 1 having confidence self-efficacy to take on and put in the necessary effort to succeed at challenging tasks; 2 making a positive attribution optimism about succeeding now and in the future; 3 persevering toward goals and, when necessary, redirecting paths to goals hope in order to succeed; and 4 when beset by problems and adversity, sustaining and bouncing back and even beyond resiliency to absenteeism attain success” Luthans, Youssef, Avolio, 2007 : 3 Review of literature shows that these psychological states of hope, self-efficacy, resiliency, and optimism may, individually andor collectively i.e., psychological capital, affect employee attitudes, behaviors and performance. A meta-analysis conducted by Avey, Reichard, Luthans, Mhatre 2011 showed that PsyCap is positively correlated with desirable work attitudes satisfaction, commitment and well-being, and behavior organizational citizenship behaviors, but negatively correlated with undesirable attitudes cynicism, turnover intentions, and stress and anxiety and behaviors workplace deviance. Further, the meta-analysis showed that PsyCap was significantly correlated with 96 Anne C. Camit, Ma. Socorro C. Bacay and Lesil E. Artista self-rated, supervisor-rated, and objective measures of job performance e.g., sales. For example, PsyCap negatively correlated with job stress, intentions to quit, and job search behaviors Avey, Luthans, Jensen, 2009. Another variable linked with psychological capital is organizational commitment. For this study, organizational commitment is defined as the psychological basis of a person’s attachment in the organization which would include the desire to identify with the organization due to the similarity of personal values to that of the organization Caldwell, Chatman, O’ Reilly, 1990 citing O’ Reilly Chatman, 1986. Comparing datasets collected from different respondent groups at different intervals, Luthans, Avolio, Avey Norman 2007 showed that PsyCap contributed to organizational commitment over and beyond the contribution of personality traits conscientiousness and extraversion. Their research also showed that global measure PsyCap contributed to organizational commitment more significantly than the individual facets did. Interestingly, PsyCap did not only predict desirable organizational attitudes and behavior, and negatively related to those that are undesirable, but it also predicted what Chen and Lim 2012 called ‘strength in diversity’. PsyCap moderately correlates with perceived employability but only slightly with preparatory and active job search. Another research among female nurses in Xi’an City, China, showed significant correlation between PsyCap and organizational commitment, where OC further partially mediated between PsyCap and job burnout Peng, et al., 2013. On the other hand, a research on absenteeism Avey, Patera, West, 2006 showed that respondents’ demographics age, gender, tenure, level within the organization were not correlated with the variable but more importantly, the study showed that PsyCap was shown to be a better predictor of absenteeism than organizational commitment and job satisfaction Avey, et al., 2006. However, in a research conducted by Kipkebut 2013, position tenure was a negative predictor of normative commitment Kipkebut, 2013, a component of organizational commitment that has to do with one’s “perceived obligation to remain in the organization” Allen Meyer, 1990. That is, an employee who has stayed too long in his position becomes ‘frustrated and disillusioned’ Kipkebut, 2013:30, and his intent to quit increases. In a more recent research tenure was also found to predict a decrease in employees’ general productivity among local The Role of Psychological Capital to Organizational Commitment 97 govenrment employees in Australia Muchiri Ayoko, 2013. In another research conducted by Wang 2014 among 238 Chinese employees, tenure strengthened the relationship between perceived supervisor support and organizational commitment, such that the longer the tenure, the greater the relationship between the two variables. From the discussion above, it can be noted that though there are studies linking commitment and tenure the relationship between variables vary. Moreover, in spite of the studies done linking psychological capital to commitment, considering tenured employees in the context are not studied in depth. Hence, this study further investigates on the role of tenure in the relationship between PsyCap and OC. Figure 1 illustrates the model of the study treating both psychological capital and organizational commitment as a global concepts. Psychological Capital Organizational Commitment Fig.-1 : Theoretical Framework of the Study The broaden and build theory of positive emotions is used in the study to explain the intended relationship of psychological capital to organizational commitment. This theory states that positive emotions can broaden mindsets to build an individual’s personal resources such as creativity and social bonds creating long-term adaptive benefits which can be used in coping successfully for any individual Friedrickson, 2004 . 2. Method Descriptive correlational research design was used by the researchers of this study. The design associates the connection between the predictor and the outcome which is psychological capital and organizational commitment respectively. The survey instrument was administered to tenured employees in a private firm in the manufacturing industry using purposive sampling. The researchers provided questionnaires and administered the survey directly to volunteered employees. The employees were given the instruction to answer the survey forms as honestly as possible to make the data valid. From 80 questionnaires that were released, only 57 results were considered valid yielding a final response rate of 71.25. 98 Anne C. Camit, Ma. Socorro C. Bacay and Lesil E. Artista 3. Measures Organizational commitment was measured using an eight item modification of a scale of organizational commitment developed by O’ Reilly and Chatman’s Organizational Commitment Scale 1986 where alpha =.90. Sample items for OC include: “What this organization stands for is important to me.” This measure used a 7-point Likert Scale ranging from 1 having the entry “Completely Disagree” to 7 “Completely Agree.” Psychological Capital was measured using thirty-item scale developed by Luthans, Youssef, et.al. 2007 with a cronbach alpha of .90. Sample item for this measure include “I feel confident analyzing a long-term problem to find a solution.” The measure used a 7-Point Likert Scale ranging from 1 having the entry “Completely Disagree” to 7 “Completely Agree.” 4. Results and Discussion Descriptive statistics of the study shows in Figure 2 that majority of the respondents are male with 63 followed by the female respondents comprising of 35 of the respondents. From among the group 2 of the population did not answer the entry for gender. Figure 2. Gender Profile of Respondents On the other hand, figure 3 on next page states that their average age is 35.6 years old SD=8.02 years old with range 27 to 43 years old. The Role of Psychological Capital to Organizational Commitment 99 n M SD Range Respondents 57 35.61 ±8.02 27 to 43 Figure 3. Profile of Respondents in Age It was hypothesized that tenured employees’ psychological capital is positively correlated to organizational commitment. Using pearson r, there is a significant correlation in the relationship with r = 0.687 at 0.01 level 2-tailed. Tenured employees who have high psychological capital leads to increased organizational commitment. This is consistent to the findings of Arvey et.al. 2008 employees’ positive emotions helps increased their coping mechanism which leads to effective organizational change. Acceptance to change and supporting new strategies as dictated by management shows high organizational commitment. Tenured employees in a organization indicates that they are happy with their organization and that they can cope up with the changes in the orgaization. These is the primary reason why they stayed long in their current organization. The high psychological capital can also be related to high organizational fit. If an employee sees that their values are aligned with the organization, they find satisfaction in their work which explains the why they got tenured. 4.1 Organizational Commitment and PsyCap Results show a strong correlation between OC and PsyCap : Table-1 : Correlation between organizational commitment and psychological capital Model R R Square Adjusted R Square Std. Error of the Estimate 1 .712 a .507 .469 5.298 a Predictors : Constant optimism, efficacy, resiliency, hope Next we tested for the correlation of OC with each of the dimensions of PsyCap. The table of correlations on next page shows that each of the dimensions of PsyCap was significantly correlated with OC. Stepwise linear regression was conducted to further determine the effects of each of the PsyCap measures. Analysis shows that hope and resiliency were better predictors of OC. 100 Anne C. Camit, Ma. Socorro C. Bacay and Lesil E. Artista Table-2 : Correlation table Table-3 : Stepwise linear regression Model R R Square Adjusted R Square Std. Error of the Estimate 1 .647 a .418 .408 5.594 2 .692 b .478 .459 5.345 a. Predictors : Constant, hope; b. Predictors : Constant, hope, resiliency Among the individual measures under the two domains, item 20 “At the present time, I am energetically pursuing my goals”, which is a measure of Hope, is the best predictor. This is followed by items 26 Resiliency: “In my job, I usually manage difficulties one way or another.”, item 22 Hope: “Right now, I see myself as being pretty successful in my goals.”, and 28 Resiliency: “I usually take stressful things in my job in stride.”. The regression model summary is as follows : Table-4. Regression table model summary Model R R Square Adjusted R Square Std. Error of the Estimate 1 .666 a .444 .434 5.468 2 .760 b .578 .562 4.810 3 .789 c .623 .602 4.588 4 .811 d .658 .631 4.413 a. Predictors : Constant, Psych Cap 20 b. Predictors : Constant, Psych Cap 20, Psych Cap 26 The Role of Psychological Capital to Organizational Commitment 101 c. Predictors : Constant, Psych Cap 20, Psych Cap 26, Psych Cap 22 d. Predictors : Constant, Psych Cap 20, Psych Cap 26, Psych Cap 22, Psych Cap 28 Finally, we tested for the effect, if any, of tenure in the relationship between OC and PsyCap measures. Results showed that tenure did not correlate with any of the variables. This means that the attenuating effect of tenure is not statistically significant for this sample set. This is possibly because of small sample size. Table-5 : Attenuating effect of tenure in the relationship between organizational commitment to psychological capital N Valid 57 Missing Mean 11.22 Median 12.00 Mode 18 5. Recommendation From the results of the study given in the previous paragraphs, the researchers suggest exploring psychological capital as a faceted concept in studying organizational commitment. And since hope turned out to be the best predictor than tenure in increasing organizational commitment, find avenues to explore developing this among employees. Studies to further investigate causes of hope for example could assist in developing this facet of psychological capital. This is consistent with the study of Luthans, Youssef and Avolio 2007 which mentions that in as much as the best places to work are those where employees are provided, the “opportunities, resources, and flexibility for sustainable growth, learning, and development p. 6”, and whereas PsyCap predicts positive organizational attitudes and behaviors, helping employees to develop their PsyCap would benefit both the organization and the employees. A series of studies further affirms the suggestion of using psychological capital in employee development especially among managers and staff. Hope, optimism, self-efficacy and resilience, being state-like psychological resources, are open to training and development Luthans Youssef, 2004; Luthans, Avolio, Avey, Norman, 2007. Furthermore, the researchers highly recommend nurturing positive emotions because it fuels resiliency and catapults people to greater heights as they also elicit positive emotions as a response reaction from others when they manifest the same Friedrickson, 2004. This is consistent to the broaden-and-build-theory of positive emotions. Managers and practitioners can 102 Anne C. Camit, Ma. Socorro C. Bacay and Lesil E. Artista make use of this cost effective strategy in all stages of human resource development. This can acculturate employees towards a culture of mental and physical wellness which enables personnel to not only signal productivity but also create peak states in productivity Friedrickson, 2004 Caldwell, Chatman, O’ Reilly, 1990. Lastly, the researchers envision that this study would open avenues for more studies involving larger sample sizes and explore other industries to increase the generalizability of the results. This can start initiatives to pay more attention to positive psychology so it can take equal footing with operational and strategic goals of the company as maintenance of this is critical to making employees stay committed in a company. Tenured employees last very long in organizations for various reasons. Ensuring that these seasoned mentors display positive realistic job previews to new hires begin with consistent efforts to reward manifestations of positive emotions or psychological capital in the work place. 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Retrieved from http:dx.doi.org10.4012sajip.v39i2.1071 Wang, Z., “Perceived supervisor support and organizational citizenship behavior: The role of organizational commitment”, International Journal of Business and Social Science, Vol. 5 1, January 2014. Zhang, X., Li, Y.-L., Ma, S., Hu, J., Jiang, L., “A structured readhing materials-based intervention program to develop the psychological capital of Chinese employees”, Social Behavior and Personality, Vol. 423, 2014. doi:http: dx.doi.org10.2224sbp.2014.42.3.503 Appendix : Questionnaire Control Number : ............................... Dear Respondent: This project concentrates how certain traits and procedures might be improved to enhance commitment among employees. It will take approximately 10-15 minutes to complete. When you have completed the survey, please place in the box provided. Rest assured the responses are completely confidential and anonymous, so please be as honest and open as possible. The Role of Psychological Capital to Organizational Commitment 105 Section A : Background Information The following information is only needed to help analyze the data and draw more meaningful conclusions from the survey results. Your responses will remain completely confidential. Your survey will be handled with confidentiality and no one at your current organization will have access to this information. We appreciate your help in providing these very important information. 01. Gender please encircle: 1. Male 2. Female 02. Age as of last birthday: 03. What is your position in the company? 04. How long have you been working as a tenured employee? For the sections below, think about your current situation in the organization as you answer the questions which follow Section B : About Commitment Please use the following rating scale : Completely Disagree 1 Disagree 2 Somewhat Disagree 3 Undecided 4 Somewhat Agree 5 Agree 6 Completely Agree 7 05. What this organization stands for is important to me. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06. I talk up this organization to my friends as a great organization to work for 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07. If the values of this organization were different, I would not be as attached to the organization 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08. Since joining this organization, my personal values and those of the organization have become more similar 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09. I am proud to tell others that I am part of this organization 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10. The reason I prefer this organization to other organizations is because of what it stands for, its values 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11. I feel a sense of “ownership” for this organization rather than being just an employee 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12. My attachment to this organization is primarily based on the similarity between my values and those of the organization 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 106 Anne C. Camit, Ma. Socorro C. Bacay and Lesil E. Artista Section C : About Psychological Capital 13. I feel confident analyzing a long-tem problem to find a solution 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14. In my current job, I feel confident in representing my area of work in meetings with management 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15. In my current job, I feel confident that I am able to contribute to discussions about the company’s strategy 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16. In my current job, I feel confident about helping to set targetsgoals 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17. In my current job, I feel confident contacting people outside the company e.g., suppliers, customers to discuss problems 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18. I feel confident presenting information to a group of colleagues in the current field 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19. If I should find myself facing a problem in my job , I could think of many ways to get out of it 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20. At the present time, I am energetically pursuing my goals 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21. There are lots of ways around my job-related problems 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22. Right now, I see myself as being pretty successful in my goals 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 23. I can think of many ways to reach my current goals 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 24. At this time, I am meeting the goals that I have set for myself 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 25. When I have a setback in my job, I have trouble recovering from it 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 26. In my job , I usually mange difficulties one way or another 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 27. I can be “on my own”, in my job , if I have to 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 28. I usually take stressful things in my job in stride 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 29. I can get through difficult times in my job because I’ve experienced the difficulty before 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 30. I can feel I can handle many things at a time in my job 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 31. When things are uncertain for me in my job, I usually expect the best 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 32. If something can go wrong for me during my job , it will 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 33. I always look on the bright side of things regarding my job 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 The Role of Psychological Capital to Organizational Commitment 107 34. I’m optimistic about what will happen to me in my job 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 35. While on the job , things never work out the way I want them 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 36. While on the job, I maintain the attitude that something positive will always turn out no matter how difficult it might be 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 37. There is generally a strong demand in job market for people like me at the present time 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 38. There are plenty of vacancies in the area where I hold a job 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 39. I can easily find out about job opportunities in my chosen area of work 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 40. The skills and abilities I possess are what employers are looking for 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 41. If circumstances arise, I am generally confident of success in the job interview and selection process 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 42. If circumstances arise, feel I could get any job as long as my skills and experiences are reasonable and relevant 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Thank You ê 108 Anne C. Camit, Ma. Socorro C. Bacay and Lesil E. Artista Article Received on June 01, 2015; Accepted on July 18, 2015 11 Role of NABARD in the Development of Agriculture Sector in India V. K. Gautam and Yogesh Kumar NABARD is a Development Bank with a mandate for providing and regulating credit and other facilities for the promotion and development of agriculture, small-scale industries, cottage and village industries, handicrafts and other rural crafts and other allied economic activities in rural areas with a view to promoting integrated rural development and securing prosperity of rural areas, and for matters connected therewith or incidental thereto. The aim of the present paper is to examine role of NABARD in the development of agriculture sector in India. It has been emphasized that NABARD is not just a bank, it is an institution primarily intended to develop agriculture. [Keywords : Agriculture sector, NABARD, Agricultural credit, Rural poverty] 1. Introduction India predominantly an agricultural economy till date, remained a food deficit country for about two decades after its independence. The situation started gradually improving after the mid sixties with introduction of High Yielding Variety HYV seeds, especially of rice and wheat, improved technology and infra-structural development, especially irrigation, rural roads, rural electrification together with opportunities for assured and remunerative marketing which ushered India in the era of Green Revolution. Today India is more or less self dependent in the area of food production and scope still remains there for improvement in the field of pulses, oilseeds and the areas of rainfed farming. CONTEMPORARY SOCIAL SCIENCES, Vol. 24, Number 3 July-September, 2015 Principal, N. A. S. PG College, Meerut, Uttar Pradesh India E-mail: principalnas college.org;principalnascollegegmail.com 43, B. I. Lines, Meerut Cantt, Uttar Pradesh India, Uttar Pradesh India In the recent past we have observed the deceleration in the food grain production too, which forced our country to import the wheat in last two years. As agriculture has a major role in alleviating the rural poverty, the deceleration in its growth has affected the generation of income of rural population. This is evident from the paradox of a very substantial population below the poverty line in rural areas and increasing mountains of food grains stocks in the reserve pool with public agencies. The moment an over 200 million children, women and men, who are currently undernourished, start consuming their optimum requirements, the countrys self sufficiency in food grains would be put to severe test. Therefore, to create a sustained basis for increase in agricultural output and to increase the productivity of land, labour and capital we need a strong base of agricultural credit. Agricultural credit may be explained as the amount of investable funds made available for the purpose of development of farm productivity. 2. The Present Study With the introduction of social control over banks in 1967, and the nationalization of the 14 commercial banks in 1969 and subsequently 6 banks in 1980 had one important aim, namely to ensure that banks to play a dynamic role in the development process of rural and backward areas and for the uplift of the poorer sections of society. To fill the gap between cooperatives and nationalized banks Regional Rural Banks sponsored by Commercial banks were established in 1975. The intention in having these new banks was that there should be and institutional device which combined the feel and familiarity with the rural problems which the cooperatives possessed and the degree or business, organization and modernized outlook which the commercial banks had, with a view to reach the rural poor more extensively. Over the years the institutional credit system of agriculture and rural sector continued to suffer from certain basic short coming viz emphasis on credit worthiness of borrowers, rather than on purpose of loans, scattered lending to individuals, lack of much needed bias in favour of small and marginal farmers, artisans. It is in this context that need for imparting development orientation to banking in the rural sector was felt. 3. NABARD and its Role in the Development of Agriculture Sector The setting up of National Bank for Agriculture and Rural Development NABARD in July 1982 is the landmark in the evolution of agricultural and rural 110 V. K. Gautam and Yogesh Kumar credit in India. Designed specifically as an organizational device for providing undivided attention, forceful direction and pointed focus to the credit problems of the rural sector, NABARD is now the apex bank for agricultural and rural credit. It inherited the credit functions of Agriculture Credit Department of RBI and the refinance functions of the erstwhile Agricultural Refinance and Development Corporation and has, during last 25 years, built upon that legacy. NABARD, today, is a household word, especially in rural India. It can confidently be said that most of the innovative financial products and services developed and mainstreamed over the last two decades are either directly attributed to NABARD or have been positively influenced by NABARD. An in-depth analysis of organization objectives and operations of NABARD has been made in preceding chapters. Based on our analysis broad conclusions are forwarded as under : u NABARD as an apex institution in the field of agricultural finance has the objective of promoting the health and strength of credit institutions forming, the front of credit delivery system of credit institutions forming, the front of credit delivery system i.e Co-operative, commercial banks and RRBs, to coordinate the activities of different agencies engaged in the development work at the field level and to keep liaison with government and other agencies. u The management of NABARD is vested in a broad based Board of 15 members which includes persons from cooperative banks, commercial banks, RBI, State Governments and experts in rural finance, rural economies rural development, handicrafts etc. u The entire work of NABARD has been divided in fourteen department. These department are further divided inti divisions and cells according to the requirement. u During the 25 years, NABARD has gone throgh three phases : 3.1 The First Phase In the first phase from 1982-91, food grain production rose from 129.52 MT to 168.38 MT and the credit flow to agriculture increased from ` 4351 crore to ` 14,332 crore. NABARDs refinance support increased from ` 2042 crore to ` 5257 crore. In those early years, NABARDs refinance was intended to play a supporting role to cooperative Banks and RRBs. 3.2 The Second Phase The second phase was during the years 1991-2001. During this period, food grain production rose from 168.38 MT to 212.85 MT and credit flow to agriculture Role of NABARD in the Development of Agriculture Sector in India 111 increased from ` 14,332 crore, to ` 61,942 crore. NABARDs refinance support increased from ` 5,287 crore to ` 14,294 crore. Having established its crore fuction of refinance, NABARD shifted its focus towards other development issue e.g micro finance through SHGs, rural infrastructure, etc. 3.3 The Third Phase In the third phase, which is still continuing began in 2002. Since then farm credit flow has increased from ` 61,942 crore in 2001-02 to ` 2,03,296 crore in 2006-07. NABARDs refinance has also increased from ` 14,572 crore to ` 21,917 crore during the same period. However a point of concern for the same period has been more or less stagnant food grain production and continuing low growth rate in real GDP, originating from agriculture and allied activities, which was a mere 2.7 in 2006-07. While a minimum growth rate of 4 in agriculture sector is imperative to achieve the goal of sustained and inclussive economic growth. u The compound annual growth rate CAGR for grand total of refinance disbursement by NABARD is found 11.94 p.a. during the study period. The CAGR of short term refinance has been 9.26 p.a; while medium ter, refinance has experienced only 3.47 p.a growth over the entire period of study. Loans to state governments or long term refinance shows a growth rate of 6.37 p.a. during the same period indicating a better growth rate than medium term loans. u Total credit amount made available by NABARD in 1982 was Rs. 2,055 crore, proving our hypothesis that more credit facilities are made availabe to the people of rural India by NABARD, and its refinance function has attracted more attention and resources over the year than other. Analysis of term wise performance of refinance by NABARD indicates that the decline in CAGR of refinance support during last 12 years has serious implications for agricultural growth of the country. u Analysis of state wise performance of refinance disbursement by NABARD indicates that most of the states show a rising trend with small fluctuations. CAGR of refinance in Himachal Pradesh is Tamil Nadu etc. The growth rates of refinance disbursement of major states like Punjab. Haryana U.P., M.P. etc. are significantly lower than the Nationla level. u From the point of view of purpose-wise refinance disbursement by NABARD, analysis reveals that CAGR of non-farm sector is highest i.e 25.83 followed by land development, animal husbandry, farm mechanization and plantation horticulture in that order. Refinance 112 V. K. Gautam and Yogesh Kumar disbursement in case of minor irrigation Govt. sponsored programmes and fisheries has not been found quite well. It is a matter of serious concern and point to a low agriculture development in future. u Inter regional analysis of refinance disbursement by NABARD indicates that CAGR in eastern region in highest i.e. 11.77 p.a followed by central region, NE region, Southern region and western region analysis Indicate a rising trend in all regions except NE region and slight down ward trends in western region after 2001-02. u The analysis of agency wise performance of refinance disbursement by NABARD over the period of study indicates that CAGR of state Cooperative Bank is highest i.e 20.3 p.a. followed by RRBs and cooperative societies, and commercial banks. u The inter-regional analysis of agency performance indicates that CAGR of northern-region L.P. 12.42 p.a. is highest followed by N.E. region, central region, eastern region and western region over the entire period of study. This analysis indicates why northern region is advanced in India from the point of view of agriculture development. The trends of inter-regional analysis also indicates that trends are constant in NE region. u From the ongoing analysis in the previous chapter it is clear that institutional finance for rural and agricultural sector has increased since the inception of NABARD. It has increased from 63.2 in 1981 to 70.4 in 2001, whereas the finance from non-institutional agencies has come down from 36.8 to 29.6 during the same period. It has proved our hypothesis that since the inception of NABARD, more credit facilities have been made available to the people of rural India from financial institutions. However NABARD has made tremendous job to achieve its goals and objectives for which it was founded but still some areas of serious concerns remain their which may be outlined as following : l 23 of the agriculture in India is still rainfed and contribution of agriculture and allied sector to the GDP is continuously decreasing Objective of achieving 4 p.a. growth rate in the agriculture sector is still mirage, which is very much essential for sustained and inclusive economic growth. l In the recent past deceleration has been observed in the production of good grain and the benefits of green revolution has resulted in the regional and crop imbalances. A steady rise in population and lowering area of cultivation due to urbanization poses a serious future threat. Role of NABARD in the Development of Agriculture Sector in India 113 l The other issue of immediate concern is the presently high level of financial exclusion. The NSSO Survey 2003 reveals that as much as 51 of the farmers household do not access debt at all and only 27 of farmers receive institutional credit and most of this credit is received by medium and large farmers. l The another issue which needs to be tackled, concerns the high level of rural indebtedness from non-institutional sources. The burden falls rather heavily upon small and marginal farmers and the problems gets accentuated in case of repeated crop failure on account of successive natural calamities. l The fifth issue pertains to enhancing productivity and value addition to agricultural output. Faster agricultural growing will require diversification into higher value output, improving avenues for value addition and bringing about vertical and horizontal integration in the supply chain. l The next issue pertains to rural infrastructure which covers irrigation, road connectivity, housing water supply, rural electrification, telephony etc. l The last but not least is that the compulsions of ongoing fiscal management policies and financial reforms, together with increased market orientation, have resulted in the withdrawal of many funding avenues of NABARD. It has to depend on market borrowing, whereas NABARD is expected to land at concessional rates. This has led to declining margins for NABARD. 4. Suggested Policy Measures for NABARD While NABARD has a proud of achievements including the introduction of innovative products, there are a number of ideas which NABARD could examine for inclusion in its growing portfolio of activities : u It has been observed during this research work that many of the Chairmen of NABARD did not complete their full term of five years. Non-completion of the tenure of Chairman jeopardiscs the working of the institution. Therefore measures should be taken to ensure that the Chairman completes his full term in the office, it will enable him to prepare long term plans for the growth and development of NABARD. Further it should be ensured that all the members of Board are appointed and attend the meeting regularly. 114 V. K. Gautam and Yogesh Kumar u The Government of India has supported the idea of State-specific and agro climatic zones based agricultural plans. A state plan, in turn, should be prepared on the basis of district-specific agricultural plans that reflect the opportunities and needs of each district. For this NABARD should open its branches at each district to help and guide the lead banks and State Government to draw up district-specific and State-specific plans. u Availability of adequate financial resources is essential for efficient working of an institution. Since institution like NABARD requires huge amont of funds for its proper functioning, it becomes imperative that Governments should make regular contribution in the fund. u In view of low rate of return ROR on capital employed and total assets, NABARD should maintain profitability and productivity. u NABARD has to play a protective role in ensuring minium 4 p.a. agricultural growth by ensuring that credit plus approaches in contributing to improved productivity in terms of trade and risk management at the farm-hold level. Secondly, NABARD has to facilitate sustainble and equitable growth of agriculture both across regions and social groups. There is a need for robust policy for sustainable natural resources management based on livelihood enhancement policy. Thirdly, NABARD has to play a leadership role ensuring a vibrant and responsive rural financial system which supports financial inclusion through a mode of relationship banking. It has to build not only capacity among rural banks but also pioneer adoption of information technology such as biometrics cards in rural banking. u NABARD has to provide more grant in-aid for research projects in the agriculture technology. More emphasis on biotechnology is necessary for improving productivity and production, Networking with ICAR, Agriculture Universities, Kisan Vigyan Kendras is needed for RD in bio-tech areas. u NABARD should actively engage in developing a long term credit policy for rural finance clearly laying role of various agencies in our multi-agency approach to bring a role clarity for all the agencies. u A specific and important role has to be played by NABARD in the area of infrastructure. However by 2006 NABARD has allocated Rs. 61,000 crore through RIDF, still though more is required. A subsidiary for rural infrastructure may be formed, which should be given the responsibility of mobilizing funds, if require, from overseas. Role of NABARD in the Development of Agriculture Sector in India 115 u It has to educate farmers on enonomic climate of the country. NABARD may conduct short duration training programmes for farmers on the basic skills and application of new technology. u NABARD should take up management role in RRB by raising share holdings to reach village level peple more effectively. It could assist RRBs in capacity building, transparency by adoption of it, supply chain credit and insurance. u Differential rate of interest may be extended to the entire rural credit and priority sector lending. If NABARD has difficulty in reducing interest rates, Government of India should come forward to support this move. u NABARD should have a strong technical wing with competent people in various disciplines such as commericial agriculture, agro processing, marketing risk mitigation. The technical officers should be exposed to the field for constant up-gradation of their technical skills. Its junior Officers should develop Specialization and strong perspective. u NABARD needs to focus on the quality of Self Help Groups for sustainable SHG movement. It should facilitate common standards, book keeping system and self regulatory mechanism for the SHG members. u The non grain crop sector and animal husbandry are clocking faster growth pointing towards diversification that is taking place in agriculture sector. It is a big business for NABARD and it should see that happen to reduce the dependence on core agriculture and efforts must be made that non farm sector is also diversified. 5. Conclusion In conclusion, it may be said that NABARD has carved for itself a special place in the unfolding story of Indias economic development. A journey of this kind has no end. Every mile that we travel throws up new challenges and new opportunities. It is the combination to pause or stop and never to band or yield. NABARD is not just a bank, it is an institution primarily intended to develop agriculture. Hope and trust that NABARD make a world class rural banking a possibility in the country. ê 116 V. K. Gautam and Yogesh Kumar Article Received on May 14, 2015; Accepted on June 25, 2015 12 Development of Jewellery From Left Overs G. Kaur and D. Kaur The investigation entitled “Development of jewellery from left overs” was carried out in Ludhiana city. An interview schedule was employed to study the preferences of ninety respondents between the age group of 17-25 years, selected through purposive random sampling technique from three colleges of Ludhiana city. The results of the study revealed that majority of the respondents were students between age group of 17-21 and were higher secondary, belonging to nuclear families and had monthly family income ranging between ` 25,000-50,000. Majority of the respondents, i.e. 87.78 per cent were aware of jewellery developed from left overs and 64.44 per cent were interested to reusing it. Where as 66.67 per cent of the respondents were interested in purchasing jewellery. Most of the left overs was collected by the investigator. On the basis of the preferences of respondents, two jewellery miniatures of each waste were developed and were shown to panel of judges. On the basis of the judges preferences, the most preferred designs were used to develop the jewellery. [Keywords : Design, Jewellery, Left overs, Miniatures] 1. Introduction Waste is a term generally used to describe the materials we throw away. Any material that is unused and rejected as worthless or unwanted is called waste material. Waste includes all items that people no longer have any use for, which they either intend to get rid of or have already discarded. Many items can be considered as waste e.g., household rubbish, sewage sludge, wastes from manufacturing activities, packaging items, discarded cars, old televisions, CONTEMPORARY SOCIAL SCIENCES, Vol. 24, Number 3 July-September, 2015 M.Sc Student, Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana-141004, Punjab India E-mail: gurleen kaur5339yahoo.com Senior Scientist, Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana-141004, Punjab India E-mail: devinderct pau.edu garden waste, old paint containers etc. Thus all our daily activities can give rise to a large variety of different wastes arising from different sources. The waste defined as unused materials or substance produced while making something. The problem with these is that for any material to be a waste it must be thrown away for disposal at the same time all wastes are not thrown away for disposal. Waste management is the gathering, transfer, processing, recycling or removal and monitoring of waste materials. Waste minimization can be used in an efficient way by focusing primarily on the first of the 3R’s, “reduce”, followed by “reuse” and then ‘recycle” Davis and Masten, 2004. Recycling is a process using waste materials into new products to prevent waste of potentially useful materials, reduce the consumption of fresh raw materials, reduce energy usage, reduce air pollution from incineration and water pollution from land-filling by reducing the need for “conventional” waste disposal, and lower greenhouse-gas emissions as compared to plastic production. Recycling is a key component of modern waste reduction and is the third component of the “Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle” waste hierarchy. Recyclable materials include many kinds of glass, paper, metal, plastic, textiles, and electronics. Recycled fashion comes in a number of different forms, but it is most commonly apparent in accessories. Trash -fashion is about making clothes that take into account the environment, the health of consumers and the working conditions of people in the fashion industry Anon, 2009. 2. Objectives of the Study To counter the problem of waste produced, many efforts are undertaken to reduce its negative contribution towards environment. One of such measures is textile recycling- the reuse as well as reproduction of new products and accessories. This importance of reuse of waste does not just lie in the fact that it is reusable waste but in its usefulness to reduce the human sufferings, so the study is planned to develop jewellery from left overs with the following objectives : 1. To identify and collect different types of left overs capable of being used for jewellery. 2. To develop jewellery designs and select the most suitable designs for making jewellery. 3. Methodology This investigation was conducted in Ludhiana city. Three colleges of the city namely Government College for Girls, Bharat Nagar Chowk, Guru Nanak Girls 118 G. Kaur and D. Kaur College, Model Town and College of Home Science, PAU were selected for studying the preferences for different jewellery. Thirty respondents were selected from each college. The total samples of 90 colleges going girls between the age group 17-25 years were selected purposively as the respondents from this particular age group were more receptive towards new trends in fashion. An interview schedule was framed for collection of data regarding preferences of the respondents for development of designs for different jewellery from left over. On the basis of information collected from the respondents regarding the development of jewellery, ten miniature jewellery sets were developed. The developed miniatures of each waste were shown to a panel of ten judges comprising faculty of College of Home Science, PAU, Ludhiana. The most preferred ten miniatures were used to prepare jewellery sets by using left overs. 4. Results and Discussion The present study entitled “Development of jewellery from left overs” was conducted to develop jewellery by using left overs on the basis of wearability, colour combination, overall impact and appearance of the developed jewellery was also studied. Awareness regarding jewellery developed from left overs n=90 Preference of respondents regarding making jewellery from left overs at home n=90 Fig.1 : Awareness regarding jewellery developed from left overs Fig.2 : Preference of respondents regarding making jewellery from left overs at home The data in Fig.1 deals with the awareness of the respondents regarding jewellery developed from left overs. In fig. 1, it can be seen that 87.78 per cent of the respondents were aware of jewellery made from left overs while 12.22 per cent were not aware of it. The Fig 2 shows that 32.22 per cent of the respondents Development of Jewellery From Left Overs 119 were not interested in making the jewellery at home while a large percentage 67.78 was interested in making jewellery at home. Table-1 : Constraints faced by respondents in making jewellery from left overs at home n=32 Problems Frequency Percentage Lack of knowledge 20 62.50 Lack of Skill 29 90.63 Lack of techniques 12 37.50 Lack of equipments 5 21.86 Multiple responses The findings in table-1 show that 90.63 per cent of the respondents were constrained to make jewellery at home due to lack of skill, followed by 62.50 per cent of the respondents who faced this problem due to lack of knowledge whereas 37.50 per cent of the respondents facing problem due to lack of techniques. Unavailability of equipment was stated to a constraint by 21.86 per cent of the respondents. Table-2 : Motivating factors for utilizing left overs for developing jewellery n=58 Factors Frequency Percentage Personal use articles 14 24.13 Starting small scale business 12 20.69 Utilization of waste 17 29.31 Qualitative time 15 25.86 Create new design 13 22.41 Multiple responses The factors regarding the development of jewellery from left overs have been furnished in table-2. The maximum numbers of the respondents were utilizing the waste for developing jewellery from left overs i.e. 29.31 per cent and 25.86 per cent of the respondents were interested in developing jewellery to spent qualitative time. Where as 24.13 per cent and 22.41 per cent of the respondents were interested to develop personal use articles and were also enthusiastic to create new design respectively. Rest 20.69 per cent of the respondents was interested in starting small scale business. 120 G. Kaur and D. Kaur Fig. 3 : Interest of respondents according to practice of purchase of jewellery developed from left overs n=90 The results illustrate that 66.67 per cent of the respondents were interested in buying the jewellery developed from left overs while 33.33 per cent were not interested in it. The following table shows preferences of respondents for the development of jewellery from left overs : Table-3 : Preferences of respondents for surface accessory material n=90 Accessories Order of preferences WMS Ranks I II III IV V Shells 18 20.00 18 20.00 9 10.00 18 20.00 22 24.44 2.74 IV Ribbon 11 12.22 17 18.89 28 31.11 19 21.11 20 22.22 2.94 III Beadsstones 19 21.11 17 18.89 21 23.33 25 27.78 4 4.44 3.11 II Decorative Buttons 16 17.78 10 11.11 25 27.78 20 22.22 7 7.77 2.69 V Wire silver, metal, plastic 26 28.89 28 31.11 7 7.77 8 8.88 37 41.11 3.51 I Figures in parentheses indicate percentages Weighted Mean Score - WMS Kruskal –Wallis H-test H=1.25 Significant at 5 per cent The data presented in table-3 indicated that wires, beads and ribbons were the most preferred decorative material to be used for the development of Development of Jewellery From Left Overs 121 jewellery from left overs and their weighted mean scores were 3.51, 3.11 and 2.94 given first, second and third ranks, respectively. Shells were given fourth rank with weighted mean score of 2.74. Decorative buttons were the least preferred decorative material. Since the sample size is large the Kruskal –Wallis H-test statistically follows χ 2 distribution=9.49. The Kruskal –Wallis H-test i.e. H=1.25 was found to be significantly different from each other at 5 per cent in all the cases. Table-4 : Attributes considered by the respondents in jewellery developed from left overs n=90 Attributes of developed jewellery Frequency Percentage Wearability 10 11.11 Colour combination 50 55.56 Overall impact 14 15.56 Appearance 16 17.77 The data regarding the attributes to be considered while developing jewellery from left overs has been presented in table-4. The data revealed that 55.56 per cent, of the respondents selected jewellery due to the colourful combination, 17.77 per cent, were preferred due to the appearance of design of the jewellery followed by 15.56 per cent, due to their overall impact and only 11.11 per cent, of the respondents were of the opinion that the wearability used attract them to purchase the products. Table-5 : Factors affecting purchase of the jewellery developed from left overs n=90 Accessories Order of preferences WMS Ranks I II III Price 47 33.30 23 14.44 20 11.11 2.30 I Appearance 35 27.77 28 15.55 27 30.00 2.09 II Durability 19 10.00 25 22.22 46 30.00 1.70 III Figures in parentheses indicate percentages Weighted Mean Score - WMS Kruskal–Wallis H-test H=0.62 Significant at 5 per cent 122 G. Kaur and D. Kaur Many economical and socio-cultural factors influence the purchase of jewellery. The data shown in table-5 revealed that price, was the most influenced factor weighted mean score 2.30 and hence was given the first rank. Appearance, with a weighted mean score 2.09 was given the second rank and durability was at the third place weighted mean score 1.70 respectively. Since the sample size is large the Kruskal –Wallis H-test statistically follows χ 2 distribution=5.99. The Kruskal –Wallis H-test i.e. H=0.62 was found to be significantly different from each other at 5 per cent in all the cases. 4.1 Selection of Miniature Jewellery developed from Left Overs For the development of jewellery sets from left overs, preferred waste i.e. buttons, textured sheets, toothpicks, cardboards and wires were used. For single jewellery design two miniatures were developed and were show to panel of judges for the final selection. Table 6 reveals that Design A 2 with a weighted mean score 1.60, was selected for the development of jewellery from left over buttons, Design B 1, with a weighted mean score 1.60 was selected for development of jewellery from left papers, Design C 2 with weighted mean score 1.70 was selected for developing jewellery from used toothpicks, In the case of leftover cardboard Design D 1 weighted mean score 1.70 was selected and Design E 1 weighted mean score 1.90 was selected for the jewellery development from waste wires. The study by Kaur 2014 also developed accessories from leftoverwaste of Zari Brocade fabrics. Table-6 : Weighted mean score of panel of judges according to their preferences regarding the designs of jewellery developed from left over s n=10 Designs WMS Ranks Buttons A 1 1.40 II A 2 1.60 I Textured sheets B 1 1.60 I B 2 1.40 II Toothpicks C 1 1.30 II C 2 1.70 I Development of Jewellery From Left Overs 123 Cardboards D 1 1.70 I D 2 1.30 II Wires E 1 1.90 I E 2 1.10 II Weighted Mean Score-WMS 4.2 Details of the Jewellery developed from Left Overs The investigator selected five the most preferred jewellery designs evaluated by panel of judges. The details of the jewellery have been furnished as follows: Jewellery A 2 Jewellery A 2 was a set of necklace and earrings developed by using leftover buttons. The pattern was made by joining the buttons together as shown in design A 2 Plate I. For embellishments having buttons a floral pattern buttons were used. A chain was attached on the edges of the neckpiece and earrings are made with single button pattern as shown in the design. Jewellery B 1 Jewellery B 1 was a set of necklace and earrings developed from textured sheets. The neckpiece had a three colours i.e. silver, golden and pink neckpiece and was made from left papers Plate II. Black stylized flower buttons were used to embellish and finish the neck piece and earrings were made in pink and golden colour. Jewellery C 2 The design C 1 had a neckpiece made from used toothpicks made by weaving ribbon through alternate toothpicks. The earrings were made by pasting ribbon on toothpicks Plate III. Beads were used for the embellishment while a silver hard wire was used to tie it. Jewellery D 1 Jewellery set D 1 was developed from cardboard that was cut into round floral shapes in three different sizes. All these were joined with each other to make a single floral pattern. Than all these composite floral patterns were joined together as shown in design D 1 by passing wire through it Plate IV. 124 G. Kaur and D. Kaur Plate-I : Jewellery A 2 developed from left buttons Plate-II : Jewellery B 1 developed from textured sheets Plate-III : Jewellery C 2 developed from toothpicks Plate-IV : Jewellery D 1 developed from cardboards Plate- V : Jewellery E 1 developed from wires Jewellery E 1 Jewellery E 1 a golden coloured necklace and earrings set was developed by using waste wires Plate V. Wires were folded in a circular shape to make this jewellery set. 5. Conclusion It is concluded that development of jewellery form left overs, would provide entrepreneurs a new idea for making use of different left overs to produce new products along with different accessories to start with very less investments. The results related to design development and colour combinations would be beneficial to the housewife’s to utilize the left overs at home. Development of Jewellery From Left Overs 125 References Anonymous 2009 Reusing waste textile and clothing.http:www.humananova.orgen columns02reusing-waste-textile-and-clothing-products-in-a-way-which-avoids-thro wing-the-items-away Davis, M. L. and S. J. Masten 2004 what is waste. http:scp.eionet.europa.eu themeswaste; also see, Davis, M. L. and S. J. Masten, Principles of Environmental Engineering and Science , New York : McGraw Hill, 2004. Kaur, B., Development of Eco-Fashion Accessories from LeftoverWaste of Zari Brocade Fabrics , M. Sc. thesis, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, India, 2014. ê 126 G. Kaur and D. Kaur Article Received on June 10, 2015; Accepted on June 25, 2015 13 Adolescents’ Personality Traits and Attitudes towards Mate Selection Pratima and Mukta Garg The present study was conducted to find out personality traits and attitude of adolescents towards mate selection. Two reputed institute of 6 th zone of Kanpur city namely HBTI, Nawabganj and C. S. A. University of Agriculture Technology, Company Bagh were selected purposively. For the study two girls and boys hostels were taken. The sample comprised of 120 students of 19 20 years. 60 boys and 60 girls were selected randomly from both the institutions. For this purpose a standardized scale 16 PF for personality traits and a self prepared questionnaire for attitude of adolescents towards mate selection was used. Investigation reveals most of the girls as well as boys wanted that their mate should be well educated, should have the good sense of humor, faithful, good looking and fashionable. Apart from all these qualities girls also give the emphasis to the sense of humor and age factor. And the χ 2 values between boys and girls were found to be significant at .05 level of significance in Q.No. 1, 3,10,,16 related to the well educated 5.217 , same profession 4.524,1-2 Years age gap 5.502, faithfulness 5.925. And at 1 level of significance in Q.No. 15 Sense of humor 11.641. In Type of personality most of the girls and boys of both the institution were lie in the cool and average level in different personality traits. Only few respondents were found in warm type of personality traits, i.e. in factor C, F, L, N Q2. Q3 .According to personality traits sten score of the boys were higher in the factor A,B,F,G,,Q,Q2,Q3, were found more easy going ,participatory, stable, mature, serious, can take stress, bold, and socially aware and think more abstractly in comparison to girls. While in factor C.H.L, O, N girls were found more reserved, more effected by emotional feelings, shy, socially praised, genuine, self satisfied. The result revealed that personality traits regarding mate selection among adolescents. The tests are found to be significant and the correlation values were found to be positively significant. [Keywords : Adolescents, Attitude, Mate selection, Personality traits] CONTEMPORARY SOCIAL SCIENCES, Vol. 24, Number 3 July-September, 2015 Student, Department of Human Development, College of Home Science, CSA University of Agriculture Technology, Kanpur, Uttar Pradesh India E-mail: pratimaprasad90 gmail.com Assistant. Professor, Department of Human Development, College of Home Science, CSA University of Agriculture Technology, Kanpur, Uttar Pradesh India E-mail: mukta.gargyahoo.com 1. Introduction The word Adolescence derived from Latin word ‘adolescere’ which means “to grow up”. Adolescence is a transitional period from childhood to adulthood, it now typically begins prior to the teenage years and there have been a normative shift of it occurring in preadolescence , particularly in females see precocious puberty . Physical growth, as distinct from puberty particularly in males and cognitive development generally seen in adolescence, can also extend into the early twenties. Personality can be defined as consistency in a person’s way of being — that is, long-term consistency in their particular ways of perceiving, thinking, acting and reacting as a person. Organized patterns of thought and feeling and behavior. The term “personality trait” refers to enduring personal characteristics that are revealed in a particular pattern of behavior in a variety of situations Individual differences in personality have many real life consequences. Preparation for the marriage is a major development task of adolescent’s year. Mate selection is the foremost important step towards marriage and is greatly influenced by culture, profession, family background, and much more. Mate choice, or intersexual selection, is an evolutionary process in which selection of a mate depends on the attractiveness of his or her traits. It is one of two components of sexual selection . Today when the Adolescent’s attitude towards marriage and mate selection can be influenced by their personality traits. Studies speculate that every individual’s personality influences their whole developmental process. Personality is the major factor that is considered by adolescents in case of marriage and mate selection. The nature and process of forming relationship regarding marriage and mate selection has changed in important ways over the past few decades. Adolescents focused on various aspects of relationship formation, ranging from adolescent pregnancy, premarital relationships, and mate selection to sexuality in relationships and families formed outside of marriage. In India adolescent’s attitude towards marriage and mate selection was depended on their parent’s interest before sometimes but now a days as the trends has been changed and the life style is changed so most of the youth believe in love marriages And by the time passes arranged marriage are going to be disappeared and also freely committed with their age mates. Adolescent attitudes towards and expectations of mate selection are currently of great 128 Pratima and Mukta Garg significance. Authors Kieren Badir, 1976 have indicated that these attitudes and expectations are formed during adolescence. According to Mooney Malony, 1978 and Zhang Fan, 2013 the uncertainty regarding a future mate selection is one of an adolescent’s greatest problems. They explained gender similarities and differences in mate- selection criteria among undergraduate university students. Female students placed greater emphasis on mate competence and earning potential, while male students put more emphasis on women’s physical attractiveness elegance. 2. Objectives of Study This study focuses on relationship between personality traits and attitude of adolescents’ towards mate selection. The specfic objectives of this study are as follows : 1. To find out the personality traits among the adolescents. 2. To find out the attitude of adolescents towards mate selection of adolescents. 3. To find out correlation between level of personality and mate selection criteria among adolescents. 3. Research Methodology The present study was conducted in Kanpur Nagar. Two colleges were purposively selected for this study i.e. HBTI, Nawabganj and C. S. A. University of Agriculture Technology, Company Bagh,. For the study two girls and boys hostels were covered. The sample comprised of 120 students between the age group of 19 20 years. 60 boys and 60 girls were selected randomly from both the institutions. For this purpose one standardized scale 16 PF Scale to find out the personality traits, and a self prepared questionnaire for attitude of adolescents towards mate selection were used. 4. Results and Discussion Table-1 on next page shows the attitude of total girls and total boys towards mate selection in which some values are found to be significant at 0.05 level of significance as shown by χ 2 values. Question 15.217 that they want well educated partner, question 35.425 that they prefer to same profession in their mates, question 105.502 that they want 1-2 year of gap in their mates, question16 Adolescents’ Personality Traits and Attitudes towards Mate Selection 129 faithfulness in their mates 5.925 .question No.15 significant at 1 level of significance related to qualities of good sense of humor in their mates 11.641. And rest of the responses of questions has not found any significant differences these findings are in support of Rao et al. 1990, Fiengn gold 1992 and Todosejvic et al 2003. Table-1 : Distribution of respondents’ of CSA HBTI according to their attitude towards mate selection across the gender

Q. No. Total Girls N=60

Total Boys N=60 χ 2 value Yes No Yes No 1 60 55 5 5.217 2 34 26 30 30 2.232 3 24 36 28 32 4.524 4 40 20 36 24 0.574 5 38 22 39 21 0.039 6 35 25 34 26 0.034 7 42 18 34 26 2.296 8 41 19 47 13 1.534 9 50 10 47 13 0.484 10 51 9 40 20 5.502 11 52 8 31 27 1.533 12 33 27 30 30 0.300 13 40 20 36 24 0.574 14 37 23 33 27 0.548 15 60 48 12 11.614 16 58 2 50 10 5.925 Significant at 0.01 Significant at 0.05 Table-2 shows the total sten scores of different personality factor of total girls total boys with their mean scores of CSA HBTI institute, which are categorizing in cool, average and warm. Most of the boys gave their response in cool and average type of personality. Many differences were found in girls and boys personality of different institution. In some factors Only few respondents 130 Pratima and Mukta Garg were found in warm type of personality traits .i.e. in factor C, F, L, N Q2. Q3 .According to personality traits sten score of the boys were higher in the factor A,B,F,G,,Q,Q2,Q3, were found more easy going, participatory, stable, mature, serious, cantake stress, bold, and socially aware and think more abstractly in comparison to girls. While in factor C.H.L, O, N girls were found more reserved, more effected by emotional feelings, shy, socially praised, genuine, self satisfied These findings contributed with the study of Klimstra et al. 2009 and Schwarz et .al. 2012. Table-2 : Distribution of the respondents according to their type of personality on different personality traits across the gender Personality factor Type of personality Total Sten score of girls Total mean N=60 Total sten score of boys Total mean N=60 A Cool 112 1.86 45 0.75 Average 39 0.65 208 3.46 Warm — — — — B Cool 112 2.03 137 2.22 Average — — 12 2.28 Warm — — — — C Cool 81 1.35 116 1.93 Average 83 1.38 50 0.8 Warm 40 0.66 — — E Cool — — — — Average — — — — Warm — — — — F Cool 69 1.15 113 1.88 Average 19 0.31 28 0.46 Warm 8 0.13 — — G Cool 82 1.36 45 0.75 Average 105 1.75 201 3.35 Warm — — 17 0.28 H Cool 98 1.63 37 0.61 Average 69 1.15 97 1.61 Warm — — — — Adolescents’ Personality Traits and Attitudes towards Mate Selection 131 I Cool 103 1.71 64 1.06 Average 75 1.25 138 2.3 Warm — — — — L Cool 10 0.16 10 0.16 Average 149 2.48 266 4.43 Warm 268 4.46 50 0.83 M Cool — — — — Average — — — — Warm — — — — N Cool 47 0.78 80 1.33 Average 129 2.15 93 1.55 Warm 8 0.13 — — O Cool 46 0.76 65 1.08 Average 109 1.81 96 1.6 Warm — — 32 0.5 Q1 Cool 36 0.6 44 0.73 Average 190 3.16 200 3.33 Warm — — 57 0.95 Q2 Cool 82 1.36 45 0.75 Average 72 1.2 158 2.63 Warm 8 0.13 60 1 Q3 Cool 12 0.01 6 0.1 Average 282 4.7 136 2.26 warm 49 0.81 297 4.86 Q4 Cool 60 1 60 1 Average — — — — warm — — — — Table-3 shows the comparison between mate selection and personality traits of CSA HBTI girls. There is no significant difference among their views in both cool and average personality factor except question 7 that shows that they prefer inter cast marriages in both the personality traits. But all the values were 132 Pratima and Mukta Garg found positively correlated between personality traits and mate selection criteria among girls. Table-3 : Correlation between the attitude towards mate selection and type of personality cool average among the girls CSA HBTI

Q. No. CSA girls n

1 a N=30 HBTI girls n 2 a N=30 Type of personality cool Type of personality Average Type of personality Cool Type of personality Average 1 0.0123 0.0154 0.0240 0.0222 2 0.0543 0.1629 0.1261 0.1780 3 0.1536 0.0344 0.0228 0.0542 4 0.0122 0.1233 0.0172 0.0631 5 0.0224 0.0999 0.0523 0.0452 6 0.0549 0.0562 0.1722 0.0113 7 0.0321 0.0812 0.5411 0.0175 8 0.1233 0.0523 0.0234 0.0332 9 0.1562 0.0423 0.1244 0.0502 10 0.0922 0.0622 0.0566 0.1234 11 0.1623 0.1124 0.0432 0.1126 12 0.0234 0.1752 0.1233 0.0134 13 0.0549 0.0992 0.0462 0.1342 14 0.0234 0.0982 0.0512 0.0682 15 0.0156 0.0542 0.0423 0.0542 16 0.0234 0.1211 0.0126 0.0322 Significant at 0.01 Significant at 0.05 Table-4 shows the comparison between mate selection and personality traits of CSA HBTI boys. There is no significant difference among their views in both cool and average personality factor on different personality traits of boys. But all the values were found positively correlated between personality traits and mate selection criteria. Adolescents’ Personality Traits and Attitudes towards Mate Selection 133 Table-4 : Correlation between the attitude towards mate selection and type of personality cool average among the boys CSA HBTI on different personality traits

Q. No. CSA boys n

1 b N=30 HBTI boys n 2 b N=30 Type of personality Cool Type of personality Average Type of personality Cool Type of personality Average 1 0.1321 0.0921 0.1256 0.0012 2 0.0211 0.0322 0.0125 0.0234 3 0.0121 0.0477 0.0321 0.1234 4 0.0321 0.123 0.0160 0.0534 5 0.0322 0.0523 0.0451 0.0345 6 0.1321 0.0362 0.1271 0.1234 7 0.1012 0.0456 0.1523 0.0179 8 0.1342 0.1270 0.0340 0.0185 9 0.0340 0.1129 0.0111 0.0328 10 0.0102 0.1240 0.1250 0.1324 11 0.1160 0.0124 0.0971 0.0681 12 0.2010 0.0230 0.0823 0.0923 13 0.0121 0.0450 0.0128 0.1233 14 0.0532 0.1799 0.1755 0.1102 15 0.0342 0.1211 0.0321 0.0102 16 0.0451 0.1121 0.0425 0.0345 significant at 0.01 significant at 0.05 The table shows the comparison between the personality traits and mate selection among total girls and boys of both institution CSA HBTI. Differences are found in some girls and boys. Maximum scores are found to be significant at 0.01 levels. Population of girls is found to be more significant at 0.01 levels in question No. 5 Girls in question No.10 boys. These were related to the selection of mate by own choice 0.3979, 1-2 years of age difference 0.3604, respectively. Significant difference at 0.05 levels among the boys were found question in No 1, 5, 10, and 15.The questions were related to well educated .2986, selection of mate by own choice .2581, 1-2 years of age difference .2980 sense of humor .2762 the value among the girls was .2632 apart from this 134 Pratima and Mukta Garg