EXPERIMENTAL METHOD 1 Location and time of research RESULT AND DISCUSSION 1 Handcrafters characteristics of East Sumba weaving cloth
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628 sex. Gender mainstreaming is one of the strategies to achieve gender equality, to give a fair or
equivalent access or opportunity for male and female in their daily activities. The mindset of gender mainstreaming is that the decision makers should know the meaning of the concept of
gender and are aware of the importance of gender equality. Therefore, they can incorporate the gender concept into policy and decision to create the gender equality.
The weaving cloth activities covering preparation of raw materials, processing, utilizing and marketing of the product. Allocation of role between male and female in the weaving cloth
activities were not equal yet. Generally weaving activities carried out by female who worked in their homes, in between their housewife busyness. Participation and involvement of male in
the weaving cloth activities is very important. For that reason, it necessary to know the information that describes the role allocation between male and female in the weaving cloth
production activities. Under these conditions it is important to investigate the gender issue and to improve it equality in the weaving cloth business in East Sumba.
This study aimed to obtain data and information on the allocation of role between male and female and encourage gender mainstreaming to obtain it equality in terms of weaving cloth
production.
2. EXPERIMENTAL METHOD 2.1 Location and time of research
The study was conducted at two Sub-Districts, i.e. Kambera Sub- District Lambanapu and Mauliru Villages, and Umalulu Watu Hadang Village, East Sumba District, East Nusa
Tenggara Province. The research was done in February and June 2014. 2.2 Materials and equipment of research
Materials and equipment used in the research include manual of interview or questionnaires, stationery, cameras, and a set of computer and internet networks.
2.3 Data collection methods Data collected through literature review, interview of handcrafter respondents, and direct
observations in the field. Respondent selection was done based on purposive method, who involved in the weaving cloth activities, both male and female. The selected respondents
consisted of 39 handcrafters 15 respondent from Lambanapu village, 12 respondent from Mauliru and 12 from Watu Hadang villages.
The interview focused on allocation role between male and female in the weaving cloth activities. Data and information obtained are used to assess gender equality in those activities.
The allocation of roles divided on male only M, male bigger than female Mf, male and female equally MF, female bigger than male Fm and female only F. Weaving
production process consisted of rolling, stretch and binding of thread, preparation and processing of natural dye material, creating of the cloth motif, coloring of the thread, weaving
of the cloth, marketing and utilizing of the products. 2.4 Data analysis
Data allocation of roles between male and female, and handcrafter characteristic in weaving cloth production in the Villages of Lambanapu, Mauliru and Watu Hadang, were analyzed
qualitatively and discussed descriptively.
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629
3. RESULT AND DISCUSSION 3.1 Handcrafters characteristics of East Sumba weaving cloth
East Sumba has 22 Sub-districts, community at 14 Sub-districts of which are involved in weaving cloth business. Two Sub-districts recorded as production centers, i.e. Kambera and
Umalulu Sub-districts. Number of woven cloth business units in East Sumba recorded 684 units, 56 units were have a formal status having a business license and 628 units were non
have a formal status does not have a business license and absorb 1910 workers 600 worker at formal businesses and 1310 workers in informal businesses Disperindag, 2011.
More than half respondents 51.3 was a young age, ranging between 20-40 years. It appears that the profession as a weaving cloth handcrafter was interested by young people. It is quite
exited in terms of the preservation of traditional culture, where regeneration of the skills in weaving cloth was occurred in the research sites. In terms of education, most of the
handcrafters 69.2 only went to elementary school completed or not, and even some of them never when to school illiterate. The level of handcrafter education is very influent on
the acceptance adoption on new innovations for the development of weaving cloth, particularly in terms of the motif and variations of color. Motif and variation of color should
be improved but do not reduce the value of the traditional culture that has been existed since the time of the ancestors. Quality of human resources involved in the business can be
improved by means of attendant of some course or training in several production centers in Indonesia or by bringing experienced resource persons to East Sumba.
The research result showed that weaving cloth
activity was dominated by female wife and
daughter as much as 64.1. Male are only involved in drawing motif as a second job or helping his wife 35.9. More than half of respondents 66.7 worked as a main job and 11
respondents 28.2 as a side job. Grouping types of jobs as the main or side job based on the proportion of time spent of respondents to do weaving cloth or to do other work. Most of the
handcrafter 59 had not joined in a group yet, and only 41 of respondents registered in a group. Although the handcrafters have been joined in a group, but the activities only in
marketing of the product scarf, sheath and cloth, whereas in the supply of raw materials and the weaving cloth process is still being done on an individual basis.
3.2 Absorption labor in weaving cloth production Business of weaving cloth has been done traditionally, most of the activity conducted by
female, who work in their homes in part-time basis. The products are scarves, sheath and cloth. Results of interviews that have been analyzed descriptively, found that activity of stretch
of thread pamening, processing of natural dye material, coloring of the thread and weaving of the cloth are generally performed by female handcrafter. Male generally involved only in the
collection or gathered of natural dyes material and marketing of the weaving cloth products. Based on the report of Central Bureau of East Sumba Statistics BPS Kabupaten Sumba
Timur, 2012, the number of female workers in the industrial processing including weaving cloth activity as many as 3590 people 74 of the total existing labor. This is because of
female participation rate in the industrial processing in East Sumba higher than male, namely 60.36. Number of weaving cloth business units in East Sumba in 2012 was 2741 units with
handcrafter number was 4380 people Table 1. Table 1 shows that the employment number was 2-3 people per units of business, so the
weaving cloth activity in East Sumba was classified as a micro industrial business. Based on processed data of the Kambera Sub-district Profile Kecamatan Kambera, 2013, the number
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630 of workers on industrial weaving cloth production centers in two locations Lambanapu and
Mauliru as many as 552 people and 449 people 81 were female. While, number of labor in industrial weaving cloth in Umalulu Sub-district were 2,095 people, 1066 of them 51 were
female Kecamatan Umalulu, 2013. Table 1: Number of weaving cloth business units industry and labor involved in East Sumba
No Sub District
Total Business Unit Number of Workers people
1. Waingapu City 21
56 2. Kambera
366 552
3. Pahunga Lodu 385
385 4. Wula Waijelu
30 60
5. Umalulu 1,222
2,095 6. Pandawai
555 1326
7. Rindi 45
58 8.
Kanatang 26
116 9. Haharu
3 7
10. Kahunga Eti 67
134 11.
Ngadu Ngala 18
36 12. Kambata Mapambuhang
2 4
13. Lewa 1
1 Total
2,741 4,830
Source: Central Bureau of Statistics of East Sumba BPS Kabupaten Sumba Timur, 2012
Therefore, the existing workforce especially the young ones in order to improve the new creations are more prominent but do not reduce the value of a culture that has existed since
the time of the ancestors. Improving human resources can be improved by following a course or training in several production centers in Indonesia or by bringing experienced resource
persons to East Sumba. 3.3 Allocation role of labor
Contributions of processing industry including weaving cloth industrial on East Sumba regional income large enough, i.e. 1.51. This contribution was much higher than the
contribution of business in forestry field 0.03 BPS Kabupaten Sumba Timur, 2012. This is because most of the producers woven cloth are female, meaning that female in East
Sumba provide an important contribution to regional revenue. Equality role and treatment on male and female in the production of woven cloth in East
Sumba will improve household welfare. Welfare in this case relates to an increase in females income and family members. If income of female increased, it usually will be used to improve
the nutritional quality consumed by the family and childrens school fees. Thus, the significant impact is increasing quality of nutrition and education of children. This means that in the long
term and large scale will contribute in improving the quality of people human resources and the next generation. The impact of this effort is quite wide, so that weaving cloth industrial
development in East Sumba becomes very important. As explained before that the weaving cloth production process includes roll, stretch and
binding the threads, preparation and processing of natural dye material, coloring the thread, creating of the cloth motif, weaving of the cloth, marketing and utilizing of the products. At
the ancient times, all work in weave cloth done by female, but now male began to involve. The
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631 allocation role between female and male in the work of weave cloth making in three villages of
the study are presented in Table 2. Table 2: The allocation of roles between female and male in weaving cloth business at three
villages of research site in East Sumba
Activity Type Gender
M MF
MF FM
F
Rolling of thread 5.1
5.1 46.2
30.8 12.8
Stretch of thread 0.0
2.6 35.9
43.6 17.9
Binding of thread 0.0
12.8 46.2
20.5 20.5
Preparation of natural dye 17.9
23.1 23.1
15.4 15.4
Processing of natural dye 2.6
5.1 12.8
28.2 51.3
Create of motif 30.8
15.4 15.4
5.1 33.3
Coloring of thread 0.0
2.6 2.6
17.9 76.9
Weave of cloth 0.0
0.0 5.1
10.3 84.6
Marketing of products 15.4
30.8 33.3
12.8 7.7
Utilizing revenue and product
2.6 5.1
79.5 5.1
7.7
Remarks: M: male only; Mf: male greater than female 2 : 1 ; MF: male and female balanced 1 : 1 ; Fm: Female greater than male 2 : 1; F: female only;
: Only 5.1 of respondents stated that the natural dye is obtained by way of purchase, without mentioning the gender role of the seller.
Data allocation of roles in Table 3 shows that in the overall production process of weaving cloth, the role of female remains greater than male. Female play a greater role in activities of
thread rolling 30.8, stretching 43.6, binding 20.5, coloring of thread 76.9, create of motif 33.3, processing of natural dye materials 51.3, and weaving of cloth 84.6.
The male role only greater on activities of products marketing 30.8 and provide of natural dye 23.1. While in utilization of revenue and products, male and female play a balance role
79.5. Activities of stretch and binding of thread are dominated by female because female are more
careful in calculating of thread. Activities in natural dyes processing and coloring of thread largely remain the task of female. There is a myth that if process of natural dye and coloring of
cloth are carrying out by male it will not success or the coloring is not perfect. Apparently, the myth is still believed by most of Sumba people. This has hampered the process of role
allocation movement to become more equitable between male and female. Actually, weaving activities that require patience and strength to keep sitting in the same position for a long time
remains the task of female. 3.4 Development model of gender responsive in industrial weaving cloth
Initiation of implementation of Forestry Development Model that gender responsive in weaving cloth business based on natural dye in East Sumba District was conducted through
several activities. The activities among other are: arranging of development program and budget allocation that responsive on gender equality. The program was facilitated by the
Working Group on Gender Mainstreaming of Ministry of Forestry in cooperation with the Ministry of Females Empowerment and Child Protection and the Government of East
Sumba through coordination meeting among the stakeholders Figure 1. The activities carried out include the planning process, identification of weaving handcrafter, identification of
problems and need for increased of handcrafter business, and interventions on design and management. Development of model includes steps that should be implemental, both in the
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632 Ministry of Forestry and in East Sumba Government. Each step in the development of this
model, will become the framework to develop Implementation Guidelines of Gender Responsive in forestry activities. The guidelines can be implemented in other forestry activities
at different locations. The resulting model is expected to be a model of sustainable development of forestry activities and gender responsive which can be used to guide the
implementation of forestry activities. Therefore, activities of the development model must be done carefully and seriously.
Figure 1: Photo of coordination meeting participants in East Sumba District on June 2014 The activity of development model involves all relevant stakeholders from the beginning until
the monitoring and evaluation. In accordance with its objectives, the development of this model will connect between resources and beneficiaries in an effective management. Based on
the above matter, it can be identified two aspects that need to be addressed seriously, first: institutional aspects of handcrafters and second: providing and fulfillment of natural dye raw
material. Dialogues among above relevant stakeholders with weaving cloth handcrafter were performed
in Lambanapu Village, Sub district of Kambera, which is about 10 km from Waingapu City. Dialogue that held two times, aims to collect information on labor productivity, availability of
raw materials particularly dye-producing plants, problems faced and the need of handcrafter for business development. The information obtained from the first dialogue was that the labor
productivity of handcrafters and collectors of raw materials of natural dyes have not been optimal yet, so that it needs to be improved. Increased labor productivity will be achieved if
the raw material of natural dyes available in sufficient quantities and marketing of woven cloth product run smoothly and sustainable. Therefore, handcrafter can produce the woven cloth
continuously; either there are orders or no orders. The problem is that the price of raw materials thread and natural dyes continues to rise. A plant species produce natural dye,
especially Symplocos sp. is increasingly difficult to obtain because the species is only grows in National Park of Laiwanggi-Wanggameti conservation forest area. Harvesting of the plant
has been prohibited by the national park management. The conclusion of the dialogue is that the dye-producing plants are very urgent to be cultivated in order to fulfillment of raw
material needs sustainably. Weaving cloth of East Sumba is address to two allotment, namely for traditional custom and business purposes. Motifs and colors for business purposes does
not need to be glued to the motifs and colors of the traditional woven cloth, so that the
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633 source of natural dyes can be derived from alternative of plant produce natural dye to reduce
dependence on natural dye plant which has been used. The second dialog, mainly discussed about demand of natural dye raw material. The
participant concluded that to meet the demand of raw materials, it is necessary to cultivate the plant produce natural dyes in the home garden of handcrafter. Besides, the handcrafter groups
need to be empowerment in order to improve their bargaining position in marketing of the products. The results of dialogue with handcrafter then communicated to related stakeholders
in East Sumba District government. The East Sumba Government commits to allocate some amount of fund to support the implementation of Gender Responsive Forestry Development
in East Sumba.